Decatur, IL
You are going to have to start a, How to live like HEP thread!!!
(Topic ID: 225528)
Linked Games
Addams Family, The
Bally, 1992-
Airborne
Capcom, 1996
-
Alien (Heighway Pinball)
Heighway Pinball, 2017
-
Black Knight
Williams, 1980
-
Bram Stoker's Dracula
Williams, 1993
-
Centaur
Bally, 1981
-
Centigrade 37
Gottlieb, 1977
-
Champion Pub
Bally, 1998
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Quoted from heni1977:You are going to have to start a, How to live like HEP thread!!!
He can start a new thread, High Energy Pinball 
Got a haircut.
Ran home from there
Was able to run two consistent sub 8:30 miles which is an improvement but I am still not back to 100% running form yet.
I had to split them on my monitors because there is a intersection that takes forever to cross so I didn’t want it to mess up my times.
B86D4961-8A1B-4430-8586-158BF2EB1BAB (resized).png9A76CA83-82F2-44E3-91F3-C591BE64F75A (resized).pngBack to my TZ
A independent power supply is requested.
I have neatly mounted and wired it to the switch side.
From here I will make individual harnesses for the 5 and 12 volts.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgBusy day gets busier.
The microwave that I fixed lasted another month or so but then started popping the breaker.
We have been using the one from the warehouse for about a week and a half.
The dishwasher has been on its last leg for a year or so.
I just bought the fridge and range about 4 years ago but have remodeled the kitchen since then and the white didn’t really match as well anymore.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
Bought all new mid level replacements in black. they showed up today.
Last time we went all out and found that we rarely used upgraded features or that they just made the appliance that much more unreliable.
image (resized).jpgQuoted from High_End_Pins:Last time we went all out and found that we rarely used upgraded features or that they just made the appliance that much more unreliable.
That's so true .. even with cars. The more computer controls they put in them, the more issues we have. Enjoy the long life appliances
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Back to my TZ
A independent power supply is requested.
I have neatly mounted and wired it to the switch side.
From here I will make individual harnesses for the 5 and 12 volts.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
You should paint the power supply cage black.
Door painting continues.
These are my 8 foot tall double shop doors. 9169907D-9B24-4E78-9419-D6DEA4488EAF (resized).jpeg
10BA770B-CBFC-4EAA-98CC-E9EBCD776416 (resized).jpeg
Painted that side yesterday. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
Reminded me of the days when I used to paint cars and a limo would come in. Had to walk down the pattern it is really hard to keep a wet edge and track your overlaps.
The worst part proved to be sealing up the building overnight.
I had to sacrifice a couple FRP panels image (resized).jpg
I also had to climb out the window.
image (resized).jpg
The worst part is somehow in the process of blocking the doors I hit the switch for the floodlights and due to recent construction they are not pointed properly yet.
As a result this one shined right in my bedroom window all night long.
image (resized).jpgThis is how I spray doors (though I use heavy duty nails instead). When turned over rest only on nails or screws to sawhorses
Make a lag screw handle for easy flipping
If you have a door that needs painting, you’ll flip for this tip. You’ll be able to paint both sides of the door without waiting for the first side to dry. Rest the door on sawhorses and drive a 1/4-in. x 2-1/2-in. lag screw into each corner of one end and another in the middle of the other end for a pivot. Slide the sawhorses to each end of the door so the screws rest on the edges of the sawhorses. Paint one side of the door and then, using the two screws as handles, lift and rotate the door on the pivot screw to expose the unpainted side.
Quoted from PinRob:This is how I spray doors (though I use heavy duty nails instead). When turned over rest only on nails or screws to sawhorses
Make a lag screw handle for easy flipping
If you have a door that needs painting, you’ll flip for this tip. You’ll be able to paint both sides of the door without waiting for the first side to dry. Rest the door on sawhorses and drive a 1/4-in. x 2-1/2-in. lag screw into each corner of one end and another in the middle of the other end for a pivot. Slide the sawhorses to each end of the door so the screws rest on the edges of the sawhorses. Paint one side of the door and then, using the two screws as handles, lift and rotate the door on the pivot screw to expose the unpainted side.
[quoted image]
Awesome. I’ll be using that from now on
Remember to always paint the tops and bottoms of doors. Steel doors need it less that all wood doors but still a good idea. Keeps moisture from rotting out the bottom prematurely, and easier to dust the tops of the doors. On wood doors it helps with expansion and contraction due to temperature change.
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Quoted from PinRob:This is how I spray doors (though I use heavy duty nails instead). When turned over rest only on nails or screws to sawhorses
Make a lag screw handle for easy flipping
If you have a door that needs painting, you’ll flip for this tip. You’ll be able to paint both sides of the door without waiting for the first side to dry. Rest the door on sawhorses and drive a 1/4-in. x 2-1/2-in. lag screw into each corner of one end and another in the middle of the other end for a pivot. Slide the sawhorses to each end of the door so the screws rest on the edges of the sawhorses. Paint one side of the door and then, using the two screws as handles, lift and rotate the door on the pivot screw to expose the unpainted side.
[quoted image]
That is great.
I wish I had some wooden sawhorses.
All mine are metal windshield racks.
Power washed the building
Put the doors back up with new hinges.
image (resized).jpgQuoted from High_End_Pins:That is great.
I wish I had some wooden sawhorses.
The concept still works.. they aren't nailed to the saw horses. The nails act as extension posts that rest on the sawhorse top side edge.
Could be a monster in it. I seem to remember a Creepshow from my childhood that featured such.
Some quick Googling found this:
What’s in there?
Eight explosion proof lights from a airplane paint booth that was torn down in the Midwest.
Probably an easy $16k or more for eight when new.
They had 30 of them!
I managed to snag all these for 1/8th the original cost including crating and shipping.
My work will be cut out for me getting them cleaned up and back into service.
Each one weighs 80 pounds.
670DA87D-E74B-4EAA-8C8C-375BF7967D6D (resized).jpeg98D670B0-5000-4937-B0BF-E2CA6D71F4E8 (resized).jpeg
I got sidetracked today figuring out the potential of the lights I bought.
I knew they were a deal and not to expect too much but I usually go into things with low expectations and see where I can take it from there in these cases.
I called the manufacturer and found that they still make this line of lights and it is their top of the line.
They are $2248 each plus shipping and the wall/ceiling mount is an extra $53 per light and must be factory installed.
The light covers are also options and cost extra.
No doubt this was a score in dollars and cents at $2185 delivered with a lift gate but these lights look like shit right now!CFE2FD3F-A198-4A5C-BF1A-6DA4AF3B57CD (resized).jpeg
D688890F-6CF3-4522-91AD-337AB497985F (resized).jpeg
First I remove the optional covers.
60A27572-143B-4CAF-B68C-4FBBC1194272 (resized).jpegThe lights won’t provide much light in this condition.
The covers were one thing but the tubes themselves are covered with burnt plastic sleeves. 1D01900C-6BEF-4936-A352-1583028C6B57 (resized).jpeg
These are bad looking and probably not needed.
7E878FD8-9A3B-40BE-9B4E-BA2EB5B8CEE2 (resized).jpeg
Also there is massive overspray on the glass tubes under the covers and the end caps. Spiderwebs too.
798C09CC-FBFE-4DB0-A007-3A47D4332E14 (resized).jpeg66AC5071-A389-40BF-89D5-0C00A2F37054 (resized).jpegI spent a while figuring the construction out and how to clean what I can without damaging it.
First was removing the browned sleeves from the bulbs.
Next the tubes/overspray.
The tubes took a bit of trial and error but acetone and a terry cloth towel threaded between it plus a lot of patience worked well. 9484E7C2-F3E7-446C-BAC5-F5A89E2FEB4C (resized).jpeg
The end caps were removed and blasted. They are aluminum.
8844127E-D325-4654-827E-0084D09B2520 (resized).jpeg18B9D1E7-0708-41C7-B9A0-D1796E13E9FA (resized).jpeg801B5E7A-59F5-4185-B697-F2CC47707167 (resized).jpeg3F6F5304-B787-4FB1-BAE4-0839F627EE81 (resized).jpegNext I wired the one I was working on and tested it. 4E5B4A69-D748-4E0C-8A75-B88967C74B79 (resized).jpeg
Looks good.
Now after much scuffing and blowing I masked both sides. There is no removing the shields the light is built around it. EFF7E90B-1D8B-4EB9-8928-081D5A19D209 (resized).jpeg1C3606A3-B772-4555-A138-A569EE4816E4 (resized).jpeg
Then sprayed with a white epoxy finish on each side.
After it dries overnight I will unmask it and if it is a go I will do them in small lots moving forward. The masking of it was tedious.
78D8F83F-DAA2-4AB6-8B6B-C26E308B2E0F (resized).jpeg85148FBA-4F18-4FA2-B304-E659B96ED4CE (resized).jpeg
Now back to pinball.
I have been having a tough time getting parts in a timely fashion.
Seems like orders from most places are not even shipping for a couple days after they are placed.
My TZ project is moving along in the background. Wiring of the playfield is nearly complete.
image (resized).jpg
The cabinet was on hold pending the parts in this box.
image (resized).jpg
I wired the splitter so the owner can easily add his mods.
image (resized).jpgQuoted from High_End_Pins:I wired the splitter so the owner can easily add his mods.
[quoted image]
Very nice detail! 
V1 & V2 are +5V and +12V DC right?
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Quoted from mastercello:Very nice detail!
V1 & V2 are +5V and +12V DC right?
Correct.
On a Williams game gray is 5 volts,gray/yellow is 12 volts so I wired them with that color scheme.
Still wiring the TZ cabinet.
image (resized).jpg
The owner wants all mods wired direct to the splitter this includes the colordmd.
That creates the need for a really long run of wire. image (resized).jpg
Also needed is a female Edison plug for a topper.
It is run of the switches side of the power supply.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgHope you plan on putting a grommet where that cord goes through the vent. That's definitely a hazard.
Quoted from Drewscruis:Hope you plan on putting a grommet where that cord goes through the vent. That's definitely a hazard.
I do.
Quoted from jsa:Have you seen many requests for a separate power supply for mods?
Not a bad idea on this game. I had a Color DMD and the German (Pinball Dreams) lit apron on my TZ and was unable to run the lit apron with the Color DMD installed at the same time - the 5V couldn't handle it.
Quoted from kermit24:Not a bad idea on this game. I had a Color DMD and the German (Pinball Dreams) lit apron on my TZ and was unable to run the lit apron with the Color DMD installed at the same time - the 5V couldn't handle it.
TZ's reset really easy even if all the boards are rebuilt and connectors are perfect.
Quoted from pinballinreno:TZ's reset really easy even if all the boards are rebuilt and connectors are perfect.
not really
Quoted from Drewscruis:Hope you plan on putting a grommet where that cord goes through the vent. That's definitely a hazard.
LOL, you have been on PinSide for 6 years and you aren't aware of how Chris does things? Where have you been? 
Quoted from TxJay:LOL, you have been on PinSide for 6 years and you aren't aware of how Chris does things? Where have you been?
Based on the cord routing, cable management, and that its hooked up to the power supply, it looked to me that it was just over looked. My apologies..
Quoted from TxJay:LOL, you have been on PinSide for 6 years and you aren't aware of how Chris does things? Where have you been?
Sorry.. this series of photos is not normal HEP level.
Quoted from Drewscruis:Based on the cord routing, cable management, and that its hooked up to the power supply, it looked to me that it was just over looked. My apologies..
No worries.
I am just roughing everything in and mapping it out.
First time I have had such a request so nothing is in its final form yet but getting closer.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgQuoted from flynnibus:not really
Mine did it when it was new lol.
But I have sketchy power...118-121v
TZ Cabinet wiring is complete.
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There was a lot to hide in there.
Lighted flipper buttons,shooter rod splitter,colordmd tap and the cord for the future topper.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
Cord for the topper uses a dual strain relief in the form of a tight closed loom and passing through a chassis mount strain relief as you would find on a power box.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
Not knowing how much cord is needed a decent amount is left out but extra is tucked away inside if needed
image (resized).jpgDinner is served.
image (resized).jpg
Maverick is a persistent beggar. image (resized).jpg
There is a little in the bowl Maverick can have.
Chicken,carrots and even broccoli.
Avocados and almonds are a no but he can actually have just one almond here or there as long as it is very small and rarely given.
He is going with the chicken.
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