TZ second clear
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgQuoted from High_End_Pins:It is true.
My wife and I have been together since we were in our mid teens.
She is the true definition of a homemaker.
Very rare these days.
She takes care of us I take care of everything else. Everything we do here is old school. It is a way of life from the work to the woman
That’s a beautiful thing Chris. Been married for nearly 30 years here and understand the connection and bond.
Dave
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Yeah.
I have a charger out here
Even a WiFi satellite. [quoted image][quoted image]
Oh, I knew you would be all setup out there; I was just getting worried you were so focused on the work that the phone would die before you got it back on the charger and could not request anymore beer delivery!
What do you recommend to use when roughing up an unclearcoated playfield surface to help the first coat of clear adhere before touchups are made during restoration? I hope I explained that right...
the TZ playfield looks awesome
Clear Coat Question?
Just curious based on your car spraying knowledge and pinball knowledge in relation to the DIMPLES.
Are there different types of clear coat that you have seen that give you tougher playfields?
Is there the perfect blend of a tough clear coat that flexes to dimples?
just curious what you spray....
Quoted from Muskie82:What do you recommend to use when roughing up an unclearcoated playfield surface to help the first coat of clear adhere before touchups are made during restoration? I hope I explained that right...
First make sure it is cleaned.
A red scotch brite works well on more fragile older playfields.
If it is newer playfield it can be sanded more aggressively with 600 grit.
I sand much more aggressively than this by machine but I would not detail or recommend it here because it could lead to people ruining their playfields.
It is something I am well practiced at and I have an eye for. Not to say someone else couldn’t do it but that there is a lot more risk involved without the experience.
Quoted from swinks:the TZ playfield looks awesome
Clear Coat Question?
Just curious based on your car spraying knowledge and pinball knowledge in relation to the DIMPLES.
Are there different types of clear coat that you have seen that give you tougher playfields?
Is there the perfect blend of a tough clear coat that flexes to dimples?
just curious what you spray....
Not really there are some harder clears out there but two issues I have found with them is that they tend to crack and chip not flex. Also they can be very stubborn and hard to shape/work with due to the tougher nature of them.
Mostly what I see when it comes to dimples is that there are harder and softer woods and playfield runs.
New thicker high gloss clear shows dimples easier because when it gets dimpled you have a combination of the deeper dimple because of the added coating being compressed and the now more obvious mar in the previously perfect surface.
Just more eye catching really but the overall protection and ability to rebeautify the playfield as a whole is worth the trade off in my eyes.
This Radical playfield is a good example.
It is the ultimate System 11 playfield because it is diamond plated but it is covered in dimples. image (resized).jpg
They are barely noticeable though because there is so little coating on there and it is quite dull.
Once cleared it will dimple at the same rate in terms of the wood but the fresh clear will make it more noticeable because it will not be so dull.
Wood compression has more to do with dimpling than clear but a harder clear could be a little better than a softer one. Neither is going to make much of a difference overall though.
Special Whirlwind coils are almost done.
Whirlwind has a lot of coils.
6 jet bumpers
5 sling/eject style
3 flippers
2 drop target assembly
A couple kickout and diverters
Plus the spinning disc assembly I need to reassemble.
5BC731ED-6948-4D84-8D29-7603582B75B8 (resized).jpeg
EFFE7E43-7163-403B-9B4A-115B5A731BF7 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Special Whirlwind coils are almost done.
Whirlwind has a lot of coils.
6 jet bumpers
5 sling/eject style
3 flippers
2 drop target assembly
A couple kickout and diverters
Plus the spinning disc assembly I need to reassemble.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Do you install all new coils or replace the coil wrappers?
Quoted from High_End_Pins:I know VA,PA and few others don’t allow it. Good work around is to find a Pinsider and do beer trades.
Actually it’s illegal to ship beer in all of the US. The Post Office has been looking into making it legal but they have yet to make this happen. You can obtain a license that will allow you to ship alcohol in the US but for the average person you’re not going to do this.
If you ship beer, your best bet is to use FedEx as they’re not as strict as USPS or UPS. However, if they find you shipping beer they will send you a letter advising you that it’s not legal to do so and if you continue to do so your package can be confiscated.
USPS scans their packages so it’s hard to ship through them. If they find you’re shipping beer they confiscate it with no warning.
So in short, use FedEx and if they ask what’s in the package tell them Olive Oil.
Now back to your regularly scheduled broadcast of HEP
New playfield has arrived from Mirco.
image (resized).jpg
I have really scrutinized it to see if I need to do anything to it from a finish perspective.
This could be as minor as just polishing it.
Medium level like sanding and polishing it
Higher level like sanding and reclearing
Luckily it needs nothing.
Have no problem doing anything that would make it better but in this case it would be a waste of time and effort.
That is never set in stone the next one I get could benefit from one of those processes but this particular playfield would not.
Even just polishing it would do no more than make a mess in all the holes.
I take this very seriously because it is not just going in any old WW it is going in my special one and any of the added processes are easy for me to do IF needed. Just isn’t this time.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgQuoted from High_End_Pins:New playfield has arrived from Mirco.
[quoted image]
I have really scrutinized it to see if I need to do anything to it from a finish perspective.
This could be as minor as just polishing it.
Medium level like sanding and polishing it
Higher level like sanding and reclearing
Luckily it needs nothing.
Have no problem doing anything that would make it better but in this case it would be a waste of time and effort.
That is never set in stone the next one I get could benefit from one of those processes but this particular playfield would not.
Even just polishing it would do no more than make a mess in all the holes.
I take this very seriously because it is not just going in any old WW it is going in my special one and any of the added processes are easy for me to do IF needed. Just isn’t this time. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Interested to see how accurate the dimpling is.
The old playfield looks like this currently so the first step is to copy that and get the new playfield up to the same build level image (resized).jpg
We will need t nuts
image (resized).jpg
Bumper nails,wafers, bodies and sockets. image (resized).jpg
Once in place then we will start using the actual take off parts and hardware that have since been reworked,regrained ,tumbled or whatever was needed
Quoted from Kawydud:Interested to see how accurate the dimpling is.
Me too and I will definitely be on the lookout as well as document anything well off the mark.
I always expect some minor variations though.
When installing the thinner #6 t nuts in a new playfield they will often crush the prongs 4D000953-BD02-4187-8FB4-E1C3CF757A11 (resized).jpeg
AFA18EED-5C3B-4838-9D53-A35F20ABCBE8 (resized).jpeg
I find it best to mark the prongs and make small pilot holes.
E6541415-71D8-48DA-A96B-413BC34A10AF (resized).jpeg
This makes it much easier to draw them in.
A5EAA9A9-BA3C-4E9D-BE81-3D85C01E15FD (resized).jpeg523086D8-368C-4488-A85D-F9B3D22CD4B9 (resized).jpegQuoted from High_End_Pins:Pretty sure I am going to enjoy watching this.
I love terrible TV shows,documentaries,and complete utter nonsense. [quoted image]
Chris, if you enjoy really cheesy movies then I suggest you look onto the Andy Sidaris action films of the 80s. You will not be disappointed.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:T nuts installed without issue.
[quoted image]
Chris,
Do you pull the t-nuts into place with some kind of screw device from the top or bang them in?
Dave
Chris posted a t-nut installation guide earlier in the thread. Pretty cool method:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hep-this-week-9-17-18/page/45#post-4803466
Quoted from yancy:Chris posted a t-nut installation guide earlier in the thread. Pretty cool method:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hep-this-week-9-17-18/page/45#post-4803466
Excellent. Thanks for the link.
Dave
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Pretty sure I am going to enjoy watching this.
I love terrible TV shows,documentaries,and complete utter nonsense. [quoted image]
I have a teen in drivers training. Will have to look up those videos on amazon!
Quoted from Robotworkshop:I have a teen in drivers training. Will have to look up those videos on amazon!
I feel I feel your pain. My 16 year old takes her drivers test in March and we have been on the road together for the last few months. My 18 year old got her license last year and I had about 35 hours with her
Dave
Quoted from High_End_Pins:When installing the thinner #6 t nuts in a new playfield they will often crush the prongs
I find it best to mark the prongs and make small pilot holes.
This makes it much easier to draw them in.
Great advice....you do this with a Dremel and a small drill bit?
Only on for the smaller T-nuts or also for the #8 ones?
Quoted from mastercello:Great advice....you do this with a Dremel and a small drill bit?
Only on for the smaller T-nuts or also for the #8 ones?
the pilot holes work great for all sizes of t-nuts. they prevent the prongs from accidentally spinning and tearing up the underside of the playfield when they don't bite and hold initially instead of being drawn into the wood
New scoops from Mantis.
image (resized).jpg
The larger scoop is not identical to the original image (resized).jpg
Switch cut out and bracket differ in location. This could be because of sample status.
Original image (resized).jpg
Original fits easily in the cutout.
image (resized).jpg
Mantis will not fit in the cut out.
image (resized).jpgQuoted from heni1977:I was thinking this myself this evening!
Me three. You still alive Chris???
Yeah here I as thinking there were some updates and it’s a bunch of you guys have honking the same thing I am..
Chris , where are you?
Dave
Quoted from jchristian11:Did he ask anyone here if he could go on vacation?
I got no vacation notice.
Send in the Guard!
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