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I follow this thread all the time. So addictive and such fantastic work.

I mend, service and carry out minor renovation work full-time and seem to spend a great deal of time searching suppliers/web for parts, ordering them, unpacking and storing the parts, paying bills, creating invoices, etc. Given the huge amount of work that you get through do you do all of these tasks behind the scenes as well and only show us the juicy bits, or do you have help with the more mundane tasks?

Keep up the great work.

Quoted from Bakerman:
I follow this thread all the time. So addictive and such fantastic work.
I mend, service and carry out minor renovation work full-time and seem to spend a great deal of time searching suppliers/web for parts, ordering them, unpacking and storing the parts, paying bills, creating invoices, etc. Given the huge amount of work that you get through do you do all of these tasks behind the scenes as well and only show us the juicy bits, or do you have help with the more mundane tasks?
Keep up the great work.

No help here.I do it all. Occasionally my wife will help me when she can but that is rare because taking care of our youngest son and the rest of us in general is a full time job.

In the past when I have had help or a helper it was more work and expense dealing with that than just doing everything myself.

I learned that it isn’t really profitable enough to pay someone for the limited things they could do to help and that they will just out pace me doing the easy stuff and that in turn backs me up with the harder task.

Whirlwind cabinet has dried overnight and reached the desired gloss level. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

I can unmask the floor now and screen the back of the head.

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

Head is now screened with the correct System 11 style screen. image (resized).jpg

Had to make my own squeegee for that because my normal one is to big for the System 11 screen. image (resized).jpg

image (resized).jpg

OP
Quoted from High_End_Pins:
In the past when I have had help or a helper it was more work and expense dealing with that than just doing everything myself.

I agree, but it does take up quite a lot of time (usually my evenings).

The next time that you mount new self-adhesive art on a cabinet would it be possible to show your technique in some greater detail? Wet or dry? Sanding of the corners? My results are OK but yours look great and I would love to learn a little more.

Thanks again for the thread

Whirlwind cabinet unmasked and then check over in the bright sun.
This is a good way to really scrutinize it
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Quoted from Bakerman:
I agree, but it does take up quite a lot of time (usually my evenings).
The next time that you mount new self-adhesive art on a cabinet would it be possible to show your technique in some greater detail? Wet or dry? Sanding of the corners? My results are OK but yours look great and I would love to learn a little more.
Thanks again for the thread

This dry install video is excellent.

Now moved into the assembly room and checked against the original.
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I obviously am not trying to copy the original but I do want to copy the spirit of it and another thing I really wanted to do was make this reinterpretation of it pop a bit more colorwise.
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Always worth a look side by side.
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They at least look like they are close relatives.

Quoted from lb1:
This dry install video is excellent.

I dry installed about 6 cabinets before a buddy showed me the wet method...now I only do it wet

Will let that set a day or two then start to both assemble and disassemble these.

image (resized).jpg

Quoted from lb1:
This dry install video is excellent.

Many thanks.

Quoted from cosmokramer:
I dry installed about 6 cabinets before a buddy showed me the wet method...now I only do it wet

Could you recommend any video of that?

Like your "SPECIAL VERSION " better

I like the graphics on the backbox (of the new design) better than the old;
but prefer the original design on the CAB compared to your new design.
New design and paint job still looks great overall.

The hand coming out of the WMS logo on the original looks hokey to me, but then again I like the fantasifull face blowing on the original CAB.

Will you be keeping the Sys11-style lockdown bar that digs into your palms, or swapping out for a newer WPC-style with more ergonomic corners?

I like aspects of both Whirlwinds. But great job as always!

Quoted from Gornkleschnitzer:
ergonomic corners

Who cares about ergonomically correct corners

Quoted from Bakerman:
Could you recommend any video of that?

Here is one:

Wet takes a lot more time, particularly because you have to wait for the decal to dry between flipping to the other side and you need to install protection to avoid having the install fluid mess up the rest of the cabinet. The big advantage is that's it a lot more forgiving for folks with less experience.

Quoted from cosmokramer:
I dry installed about 6 cabinets before a buddy showed me the wet method...now I only do it wet

I'm surprised, it's usually the other way around. Once you get more comfortable you switch from wet to dry.

I will definitely try to capture a decal install and the edge finishing when it comes back up around here.

I use a semi wet method that I learned long ago when cars would come in with large wood grain decals.

Dry was impossible and wet took too long before the panels could be reassembled.

Part of the reason I never fully capture it is because it is very involved and hands on making it tough to document as I go.

OP
Quoted from High_End_Pins:
One of the many things that take much more effort on a 70’s and 80’s SS Bally is the coin door build.
This is just a sample of the many pieces it takes to assemble the door itself. There is more to it than that but this builds the basic door.
[quoted image][quoted image]

I'm doing a door now for my EK, same door. Having a problem keeping the coin return flap staying in place after screwing the inner panel to the outer door skin? Is the coin return flap held in place only from the outer panel and coin housing drop box where they meet?

Thinking my inner panel might be slightly bent. Looks like the outer door skin should sit flush against the coin drop box.

Figured you would know. Any help or advice would be great!

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Quoted from Multiball33:
I'm doing a door now for my EK, same door. Having a problem keeping the coin return flap staying in place after screwing the inner panel to the outer door skin? Is the coin return flap held in place only from the outer panel and coin housing drop box where they meet?
Thinking my inner panel might be slightly bent. Looks like the outer door skin should sit flush against the coin drop box.
Figured you would know. Any help or advice would be great!
[quoted image][quoted image]

That is a common problem and why these return flaps are often missing.
I place a small piece of squishy lockbar foam on the skin to keep it both in place but also still functional.

image (resized).jpg

Ok thx! Will try that. Looks like you had your coin drop housing zinc plated. Looks nice! Wish more parts for these doors were available. Only found the outer skins and a few other small parts for them.

Thanks Chris!

Back at the warehouse
Need beer for later and also need to finish organizing and packing two games heading out tomorrow.

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Games are packed.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

Beer choices. The Hummin birds don’t count that is warm up or cool down beer if I decide to drink an extra. image (resized).jpg
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Going with this for little Friday(Thursday evening for normal people)

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The two major food groups in HEP's diet are clearly salmon and dark beer. Chris is possibly salmons' public enemy #1 at this point.

That came out SICK Chris... Glad I could help DESIGN the artwork for you! There is only SO MUCH DETAIL you can hold in a stencil paint mask and 4 colors is pushing it. LOVE IT!

PIMP

Quoted from PinballPimp:
That came out SICK Chris... Glad I could help DESIGN the artwork for you! There is only SO MUCH DETAIL you can hold in a stencil paint mask and 4 colors is pushing it. LOVE IT!
PIMP

Definitely I could not be happier with it and you got it just about perfect on the very first revision.
Making a stencil that is truly useable and reinterpretation of screened art is what I think some people might not understand or appreciate about this job.
The factory screened art has tolerances far too small to ever mask and paint from scratch.
Coming up with a nice art package that is paintable is what makes it a challenge and anytime I have asked that of you you have been able to do it.

Quoted from lb1:
The two major food groups in HEP's diet are clearly salmon and dark beer. Chris is possibly salmons' public enemy #1 at this point.

High quality breweries understand me.
Alaskan fish despise me.
It is tough spot to be in so I just keep working on these pins to take my mind off it.

OP
Quoted from High_End_Pins:
High quality breweries understand me.
Alaskan fish despise me.
It is tough spot to be in so I just keep working on these pins to take my mind off it.

I think Curt from Nirvana said it best.
"And its okay to eat fish,
Cause they don't have any feelings..."

Thats how I roll.

20190110_151651 (resized).jpg

Quoted from WolfManCat:
I think Curt from Nirvana said it best.
"And its okay to eat fish,
Cause they don't have any feelings..."
Thats how I roll.[quoted image]

That’s a good looking fish right there.
Kurt probably wished they had salmon at grandpa joe’s since he couldn’t chew his meat too good.
I mean whatever meat they served with the mashed potatoes and stuff like that
Sorry I am marooned on Goose Island right now.

image (resized).jpg

Running the various aspects of a business goes much much better if you approach it with a high degree of organization and attention to detail. So if you do that part the same as how you handle your colored wire inventory you should be good to go

Quoted from lb1:
Here is one:
I'm surprised, it's usually the other way around. Once you get more comfortable you switch from wet to dry.

That's definitely what happened with me. I started wet but once I mastered dry, I never went back.

Wiring the EBD 2 coin door.
This means making a new harness.
It is time consuming.

image (resized).jpg

Chris, why go through the trouble of making a new harness for the EBD door. Was the old one pretty jacked up?

Dave

Quoted from Calipindave:
Chris, why go through the trouble of making a new harness for the EBD door. Was the old one pretty jacked up?
Dave

I like to use new wire because often especially on coin doors the original wires can have internal breaks.
Also it gives the ability to delete things no longer needed like coin lock out slam tilt individually wired coin switches.
Not to say I could not implement all those things but the more unnecessary things eliminated the cleaner the wiring and fewer possible issues or confusion to less knowledgeable.
Finally I can use clear tubing to avoid shorts,shrink tubing and extend the harness for neater routing.

Back at the warehouse the special EBD and TAFBP have left for their individual trips across the country.
image (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpg

Evening beer selected.
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Time to do the final polish on the EBD 2 playfield. image (resized).jpg

Also gives me a chance to highlight the difference in the straight clear and the matte clear.

Both had fully hardened in the cup.
Keep in mind that they both use the same hardner and the matte is actually the straight clear with a ratio of the matting agent added to it.

Straight clear.
image (resized).jpg

Matte clear.
image (resized).jpg
Side by side.
Both are reflective but the matte offers a little filtering notice how much harder it is to make out the 3M logo image (resized).jpg

That reflectiveness is what I think can be confusing to people not well versed.
Reflective does not always equal glossy.
The matte is the final finish on the special Whirlwind but it shows much cleaner because it is nowhere near as thick as the hockey pucks left over.
image (resized).jpg

OP
Quoted from High_End_Pins:
I like to use new wire because often especially on coin doors the original wires can have internal breaks.
Also it gives the ability to delete things no longer needed like coin lock out slam tilt individually wired coin switches.
Not to say I could not implement all those things but the more unnecessary things eliminated the cleaner the wiring and fewer possible issues or confusion to less knowledgeable.
Finally I can use clear tubing to avoid shorts,shrink tubing and extend the harness for neater routing.

Sure Chris.

Makes sense to eliminate some of the unnecessary circuits and also to prevent future issues by weak or frayed internal wiring that isn't visible on inspection.

Dave

EBD 2 playfield polished.

image (resized).jpg

OP
Quoted from High_End_Pins:
Definitely I could not be happier with it and you got it just about perfect on the very first revision.
Making a stencil that is truly useable and reinterpretation of screened art is what I think some people might not understand or appreciate about this job.
The factory screened art has tolerances far too small to ever mask and paint from scratch.
Coming up with a nice art package that is paintable is what makes it a challenge and anytime I have asked that of you you have been able to do it.

Has no one been able to make stencils for WW? If not, is that because of the complexity of the design itself (which looks like it would be a beast to lay down)? I'm curious how they were able to do it in a factory setting with less skilled craftsmen than Pimp and yourself.

Now that the paint shop is clearing out a little with the special Whirlwind cabinet out and EBD 2 playfield polished and removed I can finish the final details of the Dr Who playfield

Playfield is sanded.
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Cleaned D978EAEB-A9E0-496C-A50F-423F5DFF738A (resized).jpeg

There are just a few things left on it
Some black work is needed for the insert wear and an area near the flippers that had a post placed at some point.
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I place it on the light box to check the insert borders and do the cut out/masking. 1BD794DB-2303-44E3-A514-E34A6EF9ED19 (resized).jpeg
E4A2658D-9798-464E-9E67-5760692D6D68 (resized).jpeg
Then fully masked and painted.

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Now unmasked there are just a couple more details. Neither are easy or ideal to fix but can be made unnoticeable with a little effort.
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There is insert wear in the boot pictured
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The Drs coat needs to be a bit lighter. I can’t get it identical to what it once was so I will just try to make it look nice and natural. 4D62FF42-E664-42DA-A5D0-CCBB882144E0 (resized).jpeg

The boot and coat are masked as well as possible there are some almost microscopic details that can’t be cut around and they are then sprayed their appropriate colors or shades. 265BBF6A-B443-4CEA-8A08-C2CA5A8EF68A (resized).jpeg
Then unmasked.
Textures will make them look a bit off until cleared over. 44F54696-87DE-49A2-A285-3114D8FB48E3 (resized).jpeg
5B426DBB-4909-4E83-AB51-ED419A23E7D3 (resized).jpeg

Now ready for the final clear.

Final clear is sprayed.
While this cures I can work on other projects or other aspects of this project.

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EBD 2 door is fully built and wired. Then installed.

image (resized).jpg

EBD 2 Cabinet is alive
All original displays work.
image (resized).jpg

Now I can start the playfield build up.
image (resized).jpg
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I will need to do something about the apron.
This one is beat.
image (resized).jpg

I have a repro for it but the colors are off in comparison to my own cream color and their use of gold instead of yellow so I may have to rework that with my own paint and a pinrescue decal to bridge the gap on this project.The owner wants a close go original look. The repro is a much better and sturdier design than the factory so this should provide the best of both worlds although I do wish getting the apron with the original yellow would have been an option.

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A0F3D71C-2D28-40D1-BD1F-7530A5C45EF3 (resized).jpeg

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Beer shipment arrives just in time for the games today

Most curious about these two. Have had some of the others.

image (resized).jpg

Time to get back to work. We have been taking a nap.

A4B2DF69-1E4A-45FF-8C76-54E8E4F310C3.gif

The EBD 2 owner sent and request a playfield protector.
I have never installed one so I thought to check it over.
DDB9D8B6-4617-4B54-8C04-E111868A2CFD (resized).jpeg
What I find is that it really doesn’t line up nor look ideal for game play.
If I align one thing perfectly it throws something else off.
The large gap around the rollover in particular looks like a ball trap so I will skip using it
Just not comfortable with it nor would I want to inherit whatever complications it could bring.
4FD5A83A-FA01-4868-8BC0-BE53635E9205 (resized).jpeg5E7E83F7-0498-4159-832A-F2A648263781 (resized).jpeg7DE89333-2D90-4F53-9DEF-3579CFE25F25 (resized).jpegAE1B6D1D-36C9-4152-BA3A-03073511B717 (resized).jpegD2B5F1D0-CF62-4956-8BBD-6384A6B19197 (resized).jpeg

New Reese rails are placed on the new playfield and it is t nutted and set n the cabinet for now.

image (resized).jpg

I need to harvest the parts from the playfield that I will reuse.

One big plus on the second EBD is it has the ball trap provisions in the target bank.

image (resized).jpg

OP
Quoted from High_End_Pins:
I need to harvest the parts from the playfield that I will reuse.
One big plus on the second EBD is it has the ball trap provisions in the target bank.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Never seen these before. Are they factory or aftermarket. Can you post a pic of them removed from game.

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By High_End_Pins

5 years ago

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