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#761 5 years ago

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Ok we are all set with the back of the head. It will remain blank.
Really cool to see what others think sometimes.
Building the head now.
All the vent screens are full of holes.
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I do have some matching material and will be strategic with it to make it look nice where most important.
A lot of what this thread is about isn’t just perfection but what it takes to keep things moving and put out a consistent product despite what are sometimes minor and other times major hurdles.
This is minor but they add up on some projects 20 minor problems can drag you down as quick as 1 major one.

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#763 5 years ago

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Easy solution on the vent screen was just to cut the hole section out.
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Perfectly align the two pieces left from the cut and install as normal.
Should be unnoticeable from here on.

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#765 5 years ago

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Head is on the lower.

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#771 5 years ago

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Quoted from TomT:
This! [quoted image]

That would be cool. I would definitely do it on the next one too late for this one though.

Just going with the decal.

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#772 5 years ago

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All cabinet wiring is cleaned for the Tommy. Laid out on the next patient.

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The rest of the blocking is placed along with the cleaned and refinished transformer. image (resized).jpg

The boards are in place. Game came in with many replacement boards. Not exactly my preference but that is what is there so I hope they are good versions.

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#773 5 years ago

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The dmd panel is torndown to repair and refinish. E596E648-C3A0-4DB1-99A2-75B109ACA542 (resized).jpeg

I removed the homemade brackets. 9B326F9F-6268-408A-B0F3-BF24F1E39F03 (resized).jpeg

Took a good half an hour and much patience to clear the channels back out so I can fit the new brackets in there later. I may have to bond them in there as well but I don’t see anything I can’t deal with. F398FA8B-67A7-432F-9330-17EDC9AFC1E3 (resized).jpeg

The panel was washed and then plastic etched and textured DE6B32FB-BA89-4374-AE96-FBE0611A6529 (resized).jpeg

Then refinished

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#775 5 years ago

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Playfield teardown and immediate rebuild begins.
First I will pull a few larger coil assemblies at a time rebuild them then move to the next.

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#777 5 years ago

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Trough rebuilt first.
It was missing some tension plates on the switches and had mismatched screws. Some Phillips some flats. I hate that because you have to have two tools on hand to do one thing.
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All switches were replaced along with some portions of the harness protections as needed.

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#779 5 years ago

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Tommy cabinet up on four new correct length legs with a new coin door.

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#780 5 years ago

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Thanks again James B.

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#782 5 years ago

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Quoted from nocreditdot:
What is the correct length legs for Tommy 28 1/2 all around?

Yes I believe so.
It came in with some newer stern legs and looked crazy.
Could not get it off the floor with a pin dolly.

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#785 5 years ago

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Tommy cabinet wiring is gone through.

Burnt connectors replaced. 18687D3B-4983-4043-A065-A593A0A654F0 (resized).jpeg
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There is a bunch of wire that can come out of the harness to clean it up and simplify things.
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The game was missing the knocker so that is made up.
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A new power box is also built up.
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#786 5 years ago

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The cabinet is now neatly wired.
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#787 5 years ago

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Playfield is being assembled.

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#788 5 years ago

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Swapped all the taller gray plastic post out for yellow.

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#792 5 years ago

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Tommy playfield underside rebuilding. image (resized).jpg

All new GI sockets. image (resized).jpg

All new targets lessthe silver ball. image (resized).jpg

Will figure out what to do with this one tomorrow

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#794 5 years ago

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Quoted from lordloss:
You cam send those off to be re plastic chrome plated i think

Thanks that won’t be quick enough for this one but what I plan on doing after a little thought is making it look nice.
Placing it on a plug so it can be easily swapped and going from there.

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#795 5 years ago

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Tommy playfield is being wired. image (resized).jpg

I am reconfiguring the GI by switching to serviceable sockets everywhere possible. image (resized).jpg

There are a couple locations where the lower profile sockets are still needed because of clearance concerns.

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#796 5 years ago

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Until I find a better solution for the sliver ball target I made a place holder up for it and placed it on a plug. That is a round target with a chrome decal.
This will allow me to easily swap the true replacement in and if that doesn’t happen soon enough will be easy for the owner to do once I source one or have the original redone.

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#797 5 years ago

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Jet bumpers rebuilt 009D87EC-6A6D-428B-8D05-751DC3E1C559 (resized).jpeg2168D311-BC12-44AA-AF2F-605D67E7CE04 (resized).jpeg

They are placed on individual harnesses.
This means rewiring with color correct wire for the lights of the diode block. 8199F7DB-B446-4FD3-B7A0-F27CEAEF4818 (resized).jpeg

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Matching harness made on the bumper assembly C7443292-3699-4CE7-9322-B31884DF0789 (resized).jpeg

Now easier to deal with.

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#799 5 years ago

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Playfield wiring is complete less the flippers.
Before I place them I am test fitting a new set of stern restong brackets
I can’t see any reason that can’t be retro fitted but will try to think of or find any reason they cannot.

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#800 5 years ago

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Playfield is in the Tommy cabinet
Resting brackets worked perfectly

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#803 5 years ago

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Quoted from ToucanF16:
I really enjoy following your restorations. You're production rate is phenomenal! Can you share a few facts; such as how many pins have you've restored, when did it become a full-time gig, favorite and least favorite aspect of restoration, do you ever tire of doing the same pins, most challenging aspect (electronics, PF, cabinet, etc.), what's your average throughput, is there an apprentice or prodigy in the wings to pick up when when you retire?
Thanks!

Nice to hear.
I lost count of how many games I have restored. Close to 500 would just be a rough guess based on how many years I have been doing this.

In 2004 I started doing this full time but I think of only the branded games as truly HEP examples. Those started around 2013 and I guess the reality is it took almost nine years of daily practice to get to that point.

My favorite and at the same time least favorite aspect of the restorations are the cabinet and playfield repaints.
They are my favorite because I am a highly skilled auto painter by trade and I love putting that ability to use in this hobby but they are my least favorite because it is a time consuming aspect of the process that can be tough to factor in time wise. I lose much more than I win there in time and financially but if all I could handle or took on were new playfields and cabinet decal jobs it wouldn’t be much of a restoration service.
Second Is hard to find parts. This often means calling in favors,paying a premium for something,having it made or doing the best with what you have up work with.

I don’t ever tire of the process regardless of the title but I will say I have more internal enthusiasm for doing the first ever Dr Who than the fiftieth AFM for example.
There is a sweet spot there also where it is the fourth or fifth time you are doing a title and you are familiar but not bored with it. That said I am really just trying to make the owner of the game happy and that is the most important aspect. I mean that sincerely. No bullshit. We all have to work hard for our money and it is a luxury for most that needs to meet expectations.

I average two games a month. Three would be more ideal financially but it is just me working and quality comes first so I would rather turn out two excellent jobs than three good ones.

No apprentice so far. The oldest son is 20 and works at a factory and is a great kid but still finding his way in this world. .
The youngest is 18 and special needs. His school actually made headlines today unfortunately with the shooting. He goes to Butler High here in Matthews. Luckily he is a challenge to get to school on time so by the time my wife arrived with him it was already locked down.

Lots of things go on in the background here when it comes to that stuff.

Key post

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#807 5 years ago

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Quoted from Pinsterwmass:
Do you think that textured would work on a lock down bar?

Yes works well for that also.

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#808 5 years ago

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Tommy Speaker panel now has the correct brackets.
Thanks to lordloss for pointing e towards them.

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#809 5 years ago

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Tommy lives.

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#810 5 years ago

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Couple more hours and Tommy will be done then we move onto TAF ,POTO nd EBD.
Maybe Dr Who as well.

Finding the NoS plastic set was a huge blessing to this project above all else.
Still need to sort out the silver ball target but I have been in contact with a person that has one so it should all work out.

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#814 5 years ago

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Quoted from djh00000:
Very nice job Chris!!

Thanks Dan.
Couldn’t have done it to this level without you.

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#815 5 years ago

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Quoted from lordloss:
GAP might be a good source as well

Thanks. That is who I am in contact with.

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#816 5 years ago

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Tommy is done.
Might get it outside for final pictures before it leaves but with it being Halloween I might not given the timing of picture taking.

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#818 5 years ago

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Quoted from ToucanF16:
Gorgeous! The last this you need is a bunch of trick-or-treaters crawling all over this work of art!

Yeah the thought of that and no proper silverball target is what haunts me this Halloween.

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#819 5 years ago

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Almost forgot. Nos topper placed.

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#820 5 years ago

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Next up is this TAF. Perfect choice for Halloween

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#824 5 years ago

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Quoted from yancy:
Hopefully that shooter knob is on its way to the trash.

Definitely. I never put stuff like that on these games unless totally forced and if so don’t expect any final pictures

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#825 5 years ago

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Starting the gutting process on the current TAF.
This will restore as I go since I already have a cabinet and playfield ready for it.

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#826 5 years ago

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Final Tommy pictures.
Going to beat the trick or treaters.

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Key post

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#828 5 years ago

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Waiting out the last bit of sunlight on this side.
Close as I come to a Halloween costume these days.
Dressed up as an old guy drinking beer.

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#831 5 years ago

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More Tommy pictures less sunlight.

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#832 5 years ago

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Playfield lower.

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#833 5 years ago

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Playfield mid.

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#834 5 years ago

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Playfield upper with temporary Silverball target.

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#835 5 years ago

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Inside.
In case anyone is wondering the two black round disc decals are evenly placed to keep the apron from scuffing the side when wrestling into position.
These Data East playfields can walk all around the inside of a cabinet so it is a thought out application.

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#836 5 years ago

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Love this part.

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#837 5 years ago

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Quoted from dnapac:
That Tommy is beautiful! Is the cab stencil/painted, or decals?

Stencil painted. Covered somewhere in this thread. It is a marathon type thread.

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#841 5 years ago

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Quoted from paul_8788:
Not sure what the laws are like in the US, but here in Canada that can land you in some trouble.

I will just let the local dentist handle it in a few months.

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#842 5 years ago

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Quoted from yancy:
I should know this since I used to own one, but did Tommy originally have pegs instead of rails?

Yes has something like those newer style pegs.

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#844 5 years ago

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Quoted from Frippertron:
What were you drinking in the driveway? Looks like a Belgian Quad or something nice!

It was one of the Founders Barrel Aged beers. Better half I think.

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#847 5 years ago

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Quoted from dnapac:
Have you ever done a Tommy with mirror blades? I was thinking of doing this, but your recent posts puts this in question. I don’t want it to be so tight it scratches the mirror blades too bad. Could the additional bumpers you have added protect them, or is the playfield to cab too tight for this? Thanks for your expertise.

I haven’t tried it yet.
The problem with the potential scratches on these games comes from the fact the playfield isn’t fixed or locked to the cabinet in anyway. That means you can easily and often slide it in and out crooked. That is what will often scuff it up.
Also you really have to jam it to place it back in the resting position.
Tough design to keep looking fresh inside if you open it up often without lots of care and protection.

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#848 5 years ago

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TAF speaker panel is rebuilt after teardown and polishing.

This game came in with a ColorDMD LCD but is being switched to the LED version.
I will need to grab a Thing light board from the warehouse next time I am there to replace the missing one.
Will also be using the Pinsound board by request.
It will be the third time I do that and have to admit the last two times I found it buggy. Hopefully this one goes better.

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#853 5 years ago

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TAF New cabinet is decaled inside and out.
Edges will be finished later.

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#854 5 years ago

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Head is gutted.
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Then relabeled. 2194AF94-B282-45B3-84E5-B7D9BCA0EC30 (resized).jpeg
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#855 5 years ago

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Lamp panel is reworked. CF8A994C-405F-41D3-BF6E-7C6158618E85 (resized).jpeg

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Refinished metal polished etc. 66B45152-14C1-488E-BF01-199B19B544D4 (resized).jpeg
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#857 5 years ago

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Boards are worked through.
The ones I have pre-serviced swaps for are set aside. B7F40140-E02F-4045-8F3A-D1E155DFD94C (resized).jpeg

The ones I don’t I work through if it is within my skill set.
This extra Flipper board is so I can handle easily enough.It May work fine but looks rough so I will rework that. 9D16A3B5-11DD-47E8-8701-B42A7643779E (resized).jpeg
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New cleaner bridge rectifier install.
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#858 5 years ago

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Next will be working the playfield toward being a bit lighter and easier to. Flip upside down. image (resized).jpg

First thing will be the bookcase assembly.
Looks interesting.

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#859 5 years ago

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Spare nickel plated bookcase bracket. 2F0B6E61-8BFA-4D41-9DF4-6E9660B96256 (resized).jpeg

Torndown. 258697F6-4CAA-406D-823C-EEB09D36E480 (resized).jpeg

Bracket rebuilt
Motor rewired with thicker gauge 17DB55BD-D38D-4808-8324-AA91018F0D93 (resized).jpeg

New switches and harness. 8B2AB824-43C5-4C78-A4FC-3B5399EC95FF (resized).jpeg
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Transmitter optos replaced they are the most common failure point. BA9F8885-D920-4AC1-9F45-9CDA16EA71FC (resized).jpeg
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Bookcase will be left at that stage for now as I await a new base and decal.

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#860 5 years ago

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Thing hand rebuild. A4C075B1-8664-4B63-8438-8437237CEC1C (resized).jpeg
Fragile wires,tape the normal stuff. 4D317988-9DF8-4361-8478-56B5745F61A3 (resized).jpeg
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Motor and gearbox cleaned. 8BB06462-9538-41C0-9BB1-1D9251279F6C (resized).jpeg

Magnet coil rewired with color correct wire 15E91486-BD7B-4DD2-8BA6-DF4DDAB92BB0 (resized).jpeg
Motor rewired thicker gauge etc. D7C302E7-04FB-4B86-BB65-9B78D2E7ED62 (resized).jpeg

Rebuilt with protection.
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#861 5 years ago

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Solenoid harness removed
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All female plugs were installed during removal.
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There is still some work needed on the harness that I will catch after I clean it.

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#863 5 years ago

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Quoted from vid1900:
You could drill a hole in a real pinball, then remove a slice to make a life time target face.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Thought about doing something like that.
Could probably take the target face and a real ball to a machine shop and have it done nice and clean.

Tommy left today.
Guy was floored by it didn’t even notice or say a word about the target so I guess at the very least I have some time.

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#865 5 years ago

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Mid day break

Let the solenoid harness soak. It is really dirty!
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Quick workout in the very same room. Mixture of strength and conditioning today. When you are on the assault bike you can’t wait to get off when you are doing the slam ball you can’t wait to get back on the damn bike 691BBF18-58A5-4F28-AA7B-725B36F68960 (resized).jpeg
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Lunch.
Still working through my last shipment of king salmon.
FE410EAA-147E-467C-8E77-050EB3A5D08B (resized).jpeg

Latest beer shipment has arrived.
2C67959D-A614-411F-A94D-486963364F89 (resized).jpeg

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#866 5 years ago

OP

HEP

High_End_Pins

HEP

Matthews, NC

12y 142K 12,536

Back to work.
TAF cabinet edges finished.
Will paint them next.

83D1D5D6-757F-457D-A625-1CD45644A634 (resized).jpeg

87287EEE-CC9A-4D52-A8AF-598EB0D18B7A (resized).jpeg

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7

#867 5 years ago

OP

HEP

High_End_Pins

HEP

Matthews, NC

12y 142K 12,536

Cabinet edges finished.

image (resized).jpg

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#868 5 years ago

OP

HEP

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HEP

Matthews, NC

12y 142K 12,536

Solenoid harness is done. image (resized).jpg

Now I will work through some of the removed coil assemblies.
These are rough.
Zip tied together
image (resized).jpg
Missing screws.
image (resized).jpg
Heavy corrosion.
image (resized).jpg

That’s just the thing eject coil

Faded or wiped out wrappers. image (resized).jpg

Duct taped together
image (resized).jpg

Turned the wrong way.
image (resized).jpg

Lots of things to improve.

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1

#871 5 years ago

OP

HEP

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HEP

Matthews, NC

12y 142K 12,536

Quoted from brenna98:
Painted by hand or what? Looks very clean!!

Those were masked and painted with the paint used on the cabinet but an oil based paint pen works well too.

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8

#872 5 years ago

OP

HEP

High_End_Pins

HEP

Matthews, NC

12y 142K 12,536

Coils removed so far are done.

Some had the wrong plungers. 17F57E29-0AD9-45FA-83E9-D5B8CA2DAECA (resized).jpeg

On the Cabinet knocker I made an insulator and turned the coil in a better position. Marked the centering and then drilled it 4C109E3D-8491-4B8E-8969-26B2114AFE20 (resized).jpeg

3F136FD6-7DCA-48FA-B61F-2488BFB3CF1A (resized).jpeg
08D83CBE-DDBC-4492-86B6-3E6C42AA7C09 (resized).jpeg
Rewired with protection. EECEFBF5-4738-45CB-A1AF-8DFC43B03D89 (resized).jpeg05C90076-0FAC-42A8-B32A-F22D37026099 (resized).jpeg

These are done.

388D20B5-1272-4C56-A5A6-6E3762AD975B (resized).jpeg

C116B3B1-F293-4975-B736-2B2098ACC59D (resized).jpeg

E9F22601-3020-4323-8C6B-3C0AB7E82A9F (resized).jpeg

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2

#877 5 years ago

OP

HEP

High_End_Pins

HEP

Matthews, NC

12y 142K 12,536

Quoted from spinal:
Chris, I was wondering... do you date each of your pins or just brand with HEP?

I brand them mostly.
The branding gets moved around a little year to year and some things improved so I can generally tell the year by looking at the restore or pictures.
My communication with the owners helps me keep track of the dates as well.

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10

#878 5 years ago

OP

HEP

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HEP

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12y 142K 12,536

Jet bumpers are done.
TAF is a pretty time consuming game mechanically.
Nothing overly complex about it but there is just a lot there.
Two motor and gearbox assemblies,three magnets,,three scoops,four flippers and five jet bumpers it means that extra time and materials are needed to really go through everything.

These jets were beat. D91EED3E-E98F-4BFB-BCCA-E91D922D84F4 (resized).jpeg

All armatures were broken. 0362B081-AA35-437F-B45C-80FE933F18AE (resized).jpegCD8C8F65-3AD2-4ECC-8212-1FFE1399D550 (resized).jpeg

Wrong springs etc. A638E70D-420E-432F-A82C-7BA12CF6F2AC (resized).jpeg

Rebuilt. New coils were needed as well a few were seized. All wired color correct.

0760008F-DA15-4B0D-B7CD-E2271E38445A (resized).jpeg

2EDDD060-18EF-4525-B671-1EFC308DE923 (resized).jpeg

4A178B3C-24EC-43A0-80F2-3B6CC6E71A83 (resized).jpeg

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6

#882 5 years ago

OP

HEP

High_End_Pins

HEP

Matthews, NC

12y 142K 12,536

Flippers are next. Looks like newer coils so that is a plus
9485FA25-A359-4006-8B49-C710D66F4E33 (resized).jpeg

Wrong bracket 4CAEAAAC-D455-4529-9378-2B2E90401F80 (resized).jpeg

Rust and corrosion
00660064-871D-49D5-B7CC-9702117780ED (resized).jpeg
9AC42F8F-99A9-4EE0-9786-B98793AC35B0 (resized).jpeg

Newly built up assemblies using just a couple things from the old.
454F55EA-35E4-448D-84F8-8C6BD24C3BAA (resized).jpeg

Then wired color correct. 035ECA6E-5A4F-4804-A388-41EB17E2F7AB (resized).jpeg

Now finished on plugs

666CCECC-2CD7-4654-926E-F5B92FE452E3 (resized).jpeg

D01EF869-FEAE-443D-BD3C-F49197D60F21 (resized).jpeg

EAD686E9-D6FC-46E2-8E08-93E50D2CE2D8 (resized).jpeg

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#883 5 years ago

OP

HEP

High_End_Pins

HEP

Matthews, NC

12y 142K 12,536

Getting there on the underside.
One or two coils left then I can start working the lamp harness and boards off there.

EC49E3D1-1DCD-444C-B11F-77AD34093D65 (resized).jpeg

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7

#884 5 years ago

OP

HEP

High_End_Pins

HEP

Matthews, NC

12y 142K 12,536

I am going to start gearing up for one of the upcoming EBD builds by fitting and prepping the cabinet.
These were built locally and look great.

I am really nervous when I give one of these guys this era cabinet.
The heads and wedged necks are a nightmare.
So far the failure rate has been higher than the successs rate so I ask for a few things on the first run.

First. Do not install the playfield runners.
Just cut them and I will place them. image (resized).jpg

image (resized).jpg

The reason for that leads to the next request. I want a thicker floor. image (resized).jpg

With the floor being thicker if they were to measure and place the playfield runners off the floor it would then be a quarter inch to high which could lead to all kinds of problems you won’t see or realize until you place the playfield,lockbar or glass.

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5

#885 5 years ago

OP

HEP

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HEP

Matthews, NC

12y 142K 12,536

Next is the head.
I have had nothing but nightmares having these built with the exception of my old local cabinet builder that retired a couple years ago.
These heads are more complex than they seem.
The reason is that the frame is both built to be cosmetic and functional at the same time.

The position of the lock hole is crucial. It can be the difference in the locking arm fitting and working or not. image (resized).jpg

Another crucial detail is the proper gap for the backglass.a little too big is ok but too tight is a disaster.
The lower trim is just a keeper and resting point.
image (resized).jpg

The upper is what is least forgiving. It impacts the way you can lift the glass in and out and also how the lock arm operates.
For this reason on a first time trial I also ask it to be made but not attached.

image (resized).jpg

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5

#886 5 years ago

OP

HEP

High_End_Pins

HEP

Matthews, NC

12y 142K 12,536

First the lock and arm are placed and traced.

image (resized).jpg

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#887 5 years ago

OP

HEP

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HEP

Matthews, NC

12y 142K 12,536

Next a correct glass is placed and locked. image (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpg
Then I place the trim piece to verify. That trim peice fits well will probably benefit from a little finesse sanding and shaping but everything fits and works so that is a relief.

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

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6

#888 5 years ago

OP

HEP

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HEP

Matthews, NC

12y 142K 12,536

Trim reveal is placed on the upper head. image (resized).jpg

Due to the potential of cracking it it is screwed in from the top. And then the screw holes are filled.

image (resized).jpg

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4

#889 5 years ago

OP

HEP

High_End_Pins

HEP

Matthews, NC

12y 142K 12,536

Filler is finished. The head is ready to prime and the backglass is double checked prior to.
Fits great and the head took almost nothing to prep for primer outside of fitting everything and filling that portion of the build up.

image (resized).jpg

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5

#890 5 years ago

OP

HEP

High_End_Pins

HEP

Matthews, NC

12y 142K 12,536

The newly made lamp panel will be primed at this time as well. image (resized).jpg
The lower is easily prepped needing only a couple nicks filled. Will mask that next.

image (resized).jpg

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4

#891 5 years ago

OP

HEP

High_End_Pins

HEP

Matthews, NC

12y 142K 12,536

Cabinet,head and two lamp panels are primed
These look phenomenal even in primer
Sharp corners.
All holes located
Correct notches for the coin door frame.
Natural and correct looking reveal for the upper backbox.

image (resized).jpg

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1

#893 5 years ago

OP

HEP

High_End_Pins

HEP

Matthews, NC

12y 142K 12,536

Quoted from jedimastermatt:
If by buggy you are referring to random delayed audio cues, they are caused by the read speed of the usb flash drive in use. The ones the boards come with are fine for maybe some stock audio samples; but, the larger and higher quality custom cues are usually much bigger in size and that causes the random delays as the board is calling up the file.
If you encounter this pick up a higher speed usb 3.0 drive.
I swapped my games over to these - amazon.com link »
They are the fastest on the market and my random delays are virtually all eliminated in even the largest custom mixes.
The very occasional sound delay is defiantly worth it for the ability to massively supercharge the audio. For any film or music based pin using the original sounds makes a world of difference. The mix I made for SWDE makes that machine really seem modern.
By the way, I’ve often wondered if for some of the more common games you’ve restored (AF, MM, AFM, etc) do you think you could do most of the work from memory if you lost your pics and notes.

Thanks I will try that. Is the 128 version adequate?

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1

#894 5 years ago

OP

HEP

High_End_Pins

HEP

Matthews, NC

12y 142K 12,536

Quoted from jedimastermatt:
If by buggy you are referring to random delayed audio cues, they are caused by the read speed of the usb flash drive in use. The ones the boards come with are fine for maybe some stock audio samples; but, the larger and higher quality custom cues are usually much bigger in size and that causes the random delays as the board is calling up the file.
If you encounter this pick up a higher speed usb 3.0 drive.
I swapped my games over to these - amazon.com link »
They are the fastest on the market and my random delays are virtually all eliminated in even the largest custom mixes.
The very occasional sound delay is defiantly worth it for the ability to massively supercharge the audio. For any film or music based pin using the original sounds makes a world of difference. The mix I made for SWDE makes that machine really seem modern.
By the way, I’ve often wondered if for some of the more common games you’ve restored (AF, MM, AFM, etc) do you think you could do most of the work from memory if you lost your pics and notes.

On the build off memory.
Yes without a doubt and happens often on the TZ,IJ,TAF etc builds. Rarely need to reference those. It is the one and two or three if’s that I find myself combining pictures and manuals to work through.

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3

#897 5 years ago

OP

HEP

High_End_Pins

HEP

Matthews, NC

12y 142K 12,536

Quoted from TheJerol:
Chris,
What do you soak the harness in to clean it? I’m amazed that doesn’t damage the wiring.

Soaks in a non corrosive orange based cleaner.
The key is that it must be non corrosive and it must be blown dry after rinsing.

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5

#898 5 years ago

OP

HEP

High_End_Pins

HEP

Matthews, NC

12y 142K 12,536

Ready to get the playfield assembly out of the TAF cabinet F78903ED-CD8E-4F2E-88D2-EAB59D4418E0 (resized).jpeg

Apron is removed it has damaged art and surface rust. 6978F510-E95E-4F57-8CCF-ED07BCE6DA12 (resized).jpeg
1C0DD9A4-DF7D-44F4-90C4-C0FCF85E1FA8 (resized).jpeg

Apron will need to be painted and decaled. There is the possibility of a new apron coming out but it won’t be soon enough for this project so it is cleaned and sanded for repaint.

3B639616-F50C-4191-A9F8-0D304536C455 (resized).jpeg

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6

#899 5 years ago

OP

HEP

High_End_Pins

HEP

Matthews, NC

12y 142K 12,536

This game has some of the worst metal conditions
Lots of rust and corrosion are present on every possible part
It makes for a more challenging project because a tumbler won’t touch this issues and nickel plating every single piece of hardware is not practical because of threading and keeping up with it all through the process.

0ACBF94A-B26C-438A-9F6A-8E043BAD2833 (resized).jpeg

2FD9D74C-CF7E-4440-B86F-06C710BBB482 (resized).jpeg

361CFFF3-1C8C-4F68-8C09-446F46CF90CB (resized).jpeg

59D3EBEA-9087-4771-821B-9C77EF1F366C (resized).jpeg

F489EA2F-B518-419E-83BA-9F8E4D0317EB (resized).jpeg

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6

#900 5 years ago

OP

HEP

High_End_Pins

HEP

Matthews, NC

12y 142K 12,536

I will be able to exchange most of it and will replace all the screws.

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

image (resized).jpg

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#904 5 years ago

OP

HEP

High_End_Pins

HEP

Matthews, NC

12y 142K 12,536

Playfield is out of the cabinet andO will be able to better work through the lamp and switch harnesses. image (resized).jpg

I believe that I am going to have to replace every single socket on this one because of rust and corrosion

image (resized).jpg

Super exclusive ad from the Pinside Marketplace!

Machine - For Sale

The Simpsons Pinball Party New ad! Featured

Used - shows wear but 100% working and clean - “Players Condition. Everything works as it should. priced to sell.”

22 hours ago

Reno, NV

7,500 (Firm)

#905 5 years ago

HEP

High_End_Pins

HEP

Matthews, NC

12y 142K 12,536

Lamp harness is removed without sockets with the exception of just one that will serve as a centering point when mapping it back out on the new playfield. image (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpg

Now thoroughly cleaned and dried. You just can’t get one that was that dirty this clean with the sockets in the way.

image (resized).jpg

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#906 5 years ago

OP

HEP

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HEP

Matthews, NC

12y 142K 12,536

Switch harness removed the same way.leaving all switches and targets behind.

image (resized).jpg

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#907 5 years ago

OP

HEP

High_End_Pins

HEP

Matthews, NC

12y 142K 12,536

Never seen this one before
Think they chiseled out a recess for the bookcase bracket.
Probably trying to level it.

image (resized).jpg

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#912 5 years ago

OP

HEP

High_End_Pins

HEP

Matthews, NC

12y 142K 12,536

Finished gutting the Cabinet. Very little in there worth saving. AC19A45D-1E6D-4514-A03C-69D56739454F (resized).jpeg

16062D0C-5390-4AA2-B6CC-A0B5C1E6C447 (resized).jpeg

717EAA53-0498-4271-8AF3-7C39D7CCCC71 (resized).jpeg

B629D8F6-9F66-4365-B305-DD0BEABB62A9 (resized).jpeg

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#915 5 years ago

OP

HEP

High_End_Pins

HEP

Matthews, NC

12y 142K 12,536

Catching up some of what did not get documented yesterday on the TAF project.

Transformer was reworked. 6942418C-605E-47F4-8932-B114F94BCEC2 (resized).jpeg

3C9B89A0-32F1-4D17-ADB9-03E493FF54B0 (resized).jpeg

Refinished

24787E64-563A-4491-9BF5-54A727467AC9 (resized).jpeg

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#916 5 years ago

OP

HEP

High_End_Pins

HEP

Matthews, NC

12y 142K 12,536

There was very little metal kept. Only the essential post and hardware.

I turned much of it by hand and now it is in the tumblers until I need it

From there it will need more attention I am sure.

8FEEB816-A340-4C6D-8522-3FBD8B6AA3F6 (resized).jpeg

A22F554F-8C76-418A-8254-8C5BB6905491 (resized).jpeg

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6

#917 5 years ago

OP

HEP

High_End_Pins

HEP

Matthews, NC

12y 142K 12,536

The original topper has some potential
This is going to be a blacked out game so I prefer at the very least the tinted original topper.
The repros are too clear but look nice on other builds just not so much on the black ones. F8DE6DA6-157D-4BAE-B63A-BD010F370675 (resized).jpeg

Decals removed and adhesive is being lifted. 2CFB3C13-2D39-4958-A7EE-5051DB44A17F (resized).jpeg
44851A07-6193-4D0F-A8B1-4A2EFEB97B3C (resized).jpeg

The topper is washed 84B413C2-0599-4B49-9464-BAA6B4D1134D (resized).jpeg
0B11D896-E0BF-4BDD-9DF1-B958336A9430 (resized).jpeg

Then flame polished as well as possible. With particular attention paid to the face of it.
The back is a bit too flimsy to really heat up but it should show well and I have may do some type of refinishing on it to further darken it.

77D860CE-5849-4A4E-A5F6-E457026F0E98 (resized).jpeg

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#918 5 years ago

OP

HEP

High_End_Pins

HEP

Matthews, NC

12y 142K 12,536

The lower cabinet is now ground braided with upgraded. Leg plates and protectors E90AB757-7B01-470C-9094-4743019CB74C (resized).jpegC17DCFFA-0F9E-4012-A727-B91AFD2876B7 (resized).jpeg

Now up on four legs.

04A7AD7E-B44C-4BBA-8813-D19B7AA0839B (resized).jpeg

4B99CDF1-8566-4BD1-B19B-6229666BFE29 (resized).jpeg

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#919 5 years ago

OP

HEP

High_End_Pins

HEP

Matthews, NC

12y 142K 12,536

Next up for TAF is the power box.

I don’t see much worth reusing here F23D066E-4081-4262-9EC0-84B7A4F24C93 (resized).jpeg
DFB4B10B-C9F1-4505-8E3A-B25D57E3A19F (resized).jpeg

With it being a reimport originally it doesn’t have a service outlet and uses some slightly different components. 103CA50B-7958-485C-87DC-546EA44C488F (resized).jpeg

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#920 5 years ago

OP

HEP

High_End_Pins

HEP

Matthews, NC

12y 142K 12,536

Another concern is the fit.
When using the upgraded leg plates on TAF and some other games the power box overlaps when aligned with the switch cut out in the floor. 5B5F411B-2650-47F8-890A-CE840E212592 (resized).jpeg
A76E79AD-F861-42EF-8A2E-B48D7DAD40D5 (resized).jpeg

The issue is easily corrected by relocating the switch in the power box chassis. This is the current position. 5E268558-2FFF-4CFA-91F0-97C924251375 (resized).jpeg

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#921 5 years ago

OP

HEP

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HEP

Matthews, NC

12y 142K 12,536

I am going to build s new assembly up mostly from scratch.

First is to modify the power box chassis.

70FBC612-02E0-437F-9C04-94027B55ADC0 (resized).jpeg

New hole is made for the switch C606036C-FF2E-4B14-89F1-E2166A58FA2E (resized).jpeg

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#922 5 years ago

OP

HEP

High_End_Pins

HEP

Matthews, NC

12y 142K 12,536

Now I can gather the parts to assemble.
A4065146-AF07-47D8-8D00-4D610A8C6B5E (resized).jpeg

Need the following.
Line filter 78F9C06E-1823-45B2-A827-7E4CC4BF7F22 (resized).jpeg
Service outletC4DF2FDA-D2EB-48B7-9584-5246981484E7 (resized).jpeg
Switch
6105E566-9CA1-4E7C-AEE0-FF82A43D09E6 (resized).jpeg
Thermistor and varistor303499A1-C2FD-4328-90F4-FFEEB5B534A5 (resized).jpeg
Fuse holderD25320D1-9799-42FD-A41C-6B21A4ED37CF (resized).jpeg
Strain relief11AA1CFD-A91C-4466-85F2-B822079A583B (resized).jpeg

That is everything laid out plus a new cord of course. AA63E738-F3E2-4376-8B68-6B273D01E0FE (resized).jpeg

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#923 5 years ago

OP

HEP

High_End_Pins

HEP

Matthews, NC

12y 142K 12,536

New switch is mounted in the box and checked for proper fit. CDCE0D6F-BAE5-49B8-BF16-6318E6CC3458 (resized).jpeg

EEEF3612-E1F1-4B5E-8CD8-4EFF74B9F3B3 (resized).jpeg
575F078F-DB3B-4306-A637-DE2B7F87E88D (resized).jpeg

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#924 5 years ago

OP

HEP

High_End_Pins

HEP

Matthews, NC

12y 142K 12,536

All set so it is built up.
Service outlet 50B4F3DC-0937-46DD-8969-E2E69833FD97 (resized).jpeg
New switch gets direct soldered but with short protection. 5A1B1C7B-D166-4B71-AEB8-CDFEB4FC1E6C (resized).jpeg

Looks about right. 938FDCAA-375D-444E-9153-1C83057EBF7A (resized).jpeg

Ready to install. 9DF5694E-3345-4696-8518-AAE301A3343E (resized).jpeg

Now installed.

image (resized).jpg

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#925 5 years ago

OP

HEP

High_End_Pins

HEP

Matthews, NC

12y 142K 12,536

Next for TAF is a coin door.
I happen to have an era correct used door I can rework. B9691944-2457-42E2-9883-ECB1666F6323 (resized).jpeg7C2B498B-BBED-4FE0-B32A-456D1A20865D (resized).jpeg

C67B475D-44D0-4025-8E51-F5038250E056 (resized).jpeg

FE2BE2DE-7F93-4A62-A1E3-78733CB5C868 (resized).jpeg

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#926 5 years ago

OP

HEP

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HEP

Matthews, NC

12y 142K 12,536

Door torndown
Cleaned and water sanded 4F8EBF44-86F6-4F32-9143-7A99D34DEC26 (resized).jpeg

Then metal etched and textured to get a more factory like base on there to do the proper paint on. F2BF063C-EB60-4D70-B3F1-8B50F8582850 (resized).jpeg

Next I will reassemble the black parts and then do the final paint and spattering.

7E97A681-A41A-4CDF-BFBF-8F29C916CA71 (resized).jpeg

8BADEB9F-E343-48AF-8328-B70B16EC8E8F (resized).jpeg

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#927 5 years ago

OP

HEP

High_End_Pins

HEP

Matthews, NC

12y 142K 12,536

TAF coin door painted and specked.
Went just a little glossier than usually for this type of repaint because I want it to tie in with the gloss black trim when placed but I don’t want the door itself to be gloss black just a bit glossier than the more traditional flat black used.

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

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#928 5 years ago

OP

HEP

High_End_Pins

HEP

Matthews, NC

12y 142K 12,536

Now before I get back to more laid back clean work I am going to start prepping the EBD cabinet for paint.
I have lamp panels.
The lower and the head.

Glass is in the head to triple check the fit and perhaps brainstorm a different color scheme than the normal one
I was given some direction by the owner but that was more mural style painting not what I do
What I do is work off the factory art and add touches or make different color schemes from that.
We will see where or if that goes anywhere but it needs to be sanded first.

image (resized).jpg

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#929 5 years ago

OP

HEP

High_End_Pins

HEP

Matthews, NC

12y 142K 12,536

The EBD cabinet was sanded and primed once more just to tighten the surface up a little more while I figure out the direction the paint work will go. 130A1270-97BF-4295-9956-BF4725D71084 (resized).jpeg
67709444-CE11-41F8-868F-85854368BA35 (resized).jpeg

The TAF backboard was also primed. 56D0821F-D489-4158-9630-8AFBFE5BE902 (resized).jpeg

The EBD lamp boards were painted since they are white this will let me get them out of the paint shop and out of harms way.

4120E119-958C-429C-8B8D-4141F891D8B6 (resized).jpeg

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#930 5 years ago

OP

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Coin door is built and placed on the TAF
Then the rails.
BE653293-3A6D-4BDE-8877-4B5A3DA9D2D9 (resized).jpeg1C575E81-D637-413C-B0FB-520E5474E214 (resized).jpeg

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#931 5 years ago

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Head is built 4C2352FA-790C-41F8-B215-A56CB393B017 (resized).jpeg

Someone asked about metal polishing. It varies a lot based on the material and importance of the parts appearance.

Using these head hinge brackets as an example of a low importance part I will always them look nice enough for there location. Red scotchbrite and glitz metal polish.
FC95A50C-5BED-47E0-868F-6D15FB18E199 (resized).jpeg

Polished up quickly. AC2D12B8-5B2B-415D-A8E0-21AA1A0D0FD5 (resized).jpeg

Now put to use. image (resized).jpg

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#932 5 years ago

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Head is mounted on lower of TAF project.

image (resized).jpg

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#934 5 years ago

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Quoted from TG:
Chris, a couple quick questions:
1) Do you add any wax or clear coat to metal parts after polishing to keep corrosion away? Or does the polish stay on there and act as a shield against corrosion?
2) At one time you were using round head screws with the metal leg protector brackets as they added more protection (spacing), and now I see you used flat head screws here. Any reason for this?
Thanks!
Todd

This particular polish I use adds corrosion protection.
It is rated at 6 months for fresh water applications and 3 for salt water so in a home environment it should be adequate indefinitely. image (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpg

The newer style protectors on the right are a bit thicker than the earlier versions on the left so the other screws are not needed to keep the leg completely off the cabinet.
A9A15913-AE3C-4D8D-BB4D-6B7F69DD8A3F (resized).jpeg

image (resized).jpg

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#938 5 years ago

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Sanded and painted the TAF backboard 1BD7D1AD-AF6C-4A6F-832B-A1D59CF88271 (resized).jpeg

While it dried I walked up to the church with my lovely wife and we voted.

E6D96E9D-D5F5-4249-835A-0C933163511C (resized).jpeg
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When I got back it was nice and dry.

990186BD-835F-4776-B904-706B5A6DAAE0 (resized).jpeg

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#939 5 years ago

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Now I am going to sand and paint the EBD cabinet base color.
This will get a little different coloring in a few areas

4EAFBEE6-1E18-4ED9-B3E0-5D756159C02A (resized).jpeg

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#940 5 years ago

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EBD cabinet is ready to paint.

image (resized).jpg

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#941 5 years ago

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Sides of the head are sprayed cream but not the entire head as normally done.

This is a must because of how the stencils are to be sprayed/order of them.

image (resized).jpg

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#942 5 years ago

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EBD cabinet is then fully blacked out less the two sides of the head for now.

image (resized).jpg

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#943 5 years ago

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Head unmasked then the first stencil is applied. D147E170-DEDC-4F57-A925-A9D999DA3DBD (resized).jpeg

C99AF9FA-D9F3-4AF9-AD69-22C69B879BF9 (resized).jpeg

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#944 5 years ago

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Blacked out again then unmasked. CC01B670-65FE-49C7-95A3-7B6AE5D9FD79 (resized).jpeg

7B4809B5-647B-4A60-9091-2387E90CD51D (resized).jpeg

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#946 5 years ago

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You probably were not expecting this. 43FEB34F-E9F4-4C96-A3C3-D5F7851F51E5 (resized).jpeg
B21B8C9B-AB3D-4F70-B11D-5DA8A767949D (resized).jpeg
E416B13D-0557-4375-9C10-D931A8D857C2 (resized).jpeg

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#948 5 years ago

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But I am converting an LE and I want to bridge the gap between the classic and the LE color scheme so I am working off the backglass color scheme and the LE apron which is black red and gold.
This is actually 4 colors on the front.
Black,red ,med brown and gold.
The brown will be needed for the cowboy on the backbox.

image (resized).jpg

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#949 5 years ago

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This is where I am so far on the sides but I know where I am going.
Wanted to test the front first because the face value of it is most important.

image (resized).jpg

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#951 5 years ago

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Dialing in the scheme on the sides.
Brought a little of the cream back in.

image (resized).jpg

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#953 5 years ago

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Looks promising so far as a package.
image (resized).jpg

Tomorrow I will add some red to the backbox to tie it in.
image (resized).jpg

And a few cream accents to the front as well now that it is evolving better in my mind.
image (resized).jpg

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#954 5 years ago

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Cleared to save the current spot it is in.

image (resized).jpg

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#955 5 years ago

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Painted and cleared the TAF apron as well.

image (resized).jpg

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#961 5 years ago

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Dumpster day.

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#962 5 years ago

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Much easier to throw away now.

image (resized).jpg

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#963 5 years ago

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Quoted from jwilson:
I was wondering, how did you go from cars to pins?

This covers that on some level.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-evolution-of-hephigh-end-pins

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#964 5 years ago

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Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:
If I may recommend, the Bally logo would look good in red to tie it in. Love that lower cab color choice.

I definitely have some red plans for the head.
Right now it is just kind of blueprinted.
I would say it is about eight percent as it sets.
I ordered some more stencils so that will allow me to let the clear set a few days then more easily dial in the color scheme depending on what breaks through in sanding and plans I have.

What happened with that EBD cabinet was just spur of the moment last night but it ended up in a pretty good spot for the first pass.

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#965 5 years ago

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TAF parts are out of the tumbler after running a few days.
image (resized).jpg
This is what was worth or needed to be saved and these are the results.
Before
3F4F013E-3D57-4D3F-A82C-E6C1B301FEFF (resized).jpeg
Afters
image (resized).jpg

image (resized).jpg

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#966 5 years ago

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I can start assembling the playfield now.it is a CPR gold that I have fully drilled and adjusted then cleared.
image (resized).jpg

Having installed several of these now I am already aware of some minor things that can be done to improve the install. Those adjustments are as noted.
Opening up the clogged wire guide holes. image (resized).jpg

Enlarging the through holes for various ballguide studs and post.
image (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpg

Slotting this one ballguide stud hole.
image (resized).jpg

Opening up the screw holes in the red area pictured.
image (resized).jpg

Predrilling all the underside holes. These are very faint as delivered and it gets almost invisible as it works towards the top of the playfield.

image (resized).jpg

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#968 5 years ago

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Quoted from epeabs:
So you tumble your parts for several days? No wonder mine don't come out that nice.

Depending on how bad they are. I had to pretreat most of these by turning them with a drill in scotchbrite.

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#971 5 years ago

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New Reese rails installed. image (resized).jpg
Wireguides and metal post are placed.

image (resized).jpg

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#972 5 years ago

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Jet bumper nails are being set.
On TAF I normally black them out for a cleaner look b

image (resized).jpg

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#974 5 years ago

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Quoted from TimeBandit:
Ok, I'm going to nominate that point as your closest moment of attention to detail.
We can get a sense already of your extreme care with fine detail, but where do you draw the line? Do you "zoom in" past this level and see things at fine scales that you "could" attend to but then decide to pull back a bit?

From a service provider perspective you almost have to pull back a little at times just so a project gets done in a reasonable time frame and a tolerable cost in perspective of the item.

We are dealing in Youssis not Picasso’s is the only difference sometimes. The work can be just as challenging as what museums go through restoring much more valuable items.
On a personal level I see everything. I have a severe OCD that knows few boundaries.
I embrace it and find creative uses for it. These things come naturally to me sometimes instantly other times by experience or study. I guess more than anything the real point is if I “miss” or don’t do something it is either because I am only human sometimes,I haven’t thought of it yet,it doesn’t make sense from a project timing or cost perspective or I purposely have already explored it previously and have seen little payoff in going further or doing it.

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#975 5 years ago

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Little more laid back night shift tonight.
Hard to believe this equals one full hour of exercise but whatever!

image (resized).jpg

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#976 5 years ago

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The night shift is much more creative than the boring day shift. image (resized).jpg
Thinking about completing the black green and yellow cemetery scheme with these.

image (resized).jpg

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#977 5 years ago

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Playfield is test fit in the TAF while it is still easy to work k with.
What I am looking for is a playfield fit that easily raises and lowers without force.

image (resized).jpg

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#978 5 years ago

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Fit is great. Back to build up tomorrow. It is dinner time

image (resized).jpg

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#980 5 years ago

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Quoted from pinballinreno:
I'm not sold on the pops.
Seems monochromatic, but then I just might be brainwashed by the original colors?
You cant really see it too much after assembly though.
Maybe that's why the original had colorful caps?
(I'm colorblind so my opinion has no weight...)

I understand there is always an element of risk with changes.
For me personally I have done TAFs so many ways so it is fun to try new things.
Sometimes it is a hit others are a miss but just putting everything back like the other 20,000 TAFs is boring so you learn to adapt to the different looks.
It always looks “wrong” at first because it isn’t what we are used to seeing but I like the simplicity of color matching if it is normally done with a bigger contrast from the factory and I like the contrast angle if it is normally more color matched from the factory if the goal is to change it up a little.
TAF normally has at least one yellow cap so it isn’t a big stretch to do five.

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#987 5 years ago

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Topside coming together.

image (resized).jpg

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#990 5 years ago

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Will start prepping the EBD cabinet for the next round of painting

image (resized).jpg

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#991 5 years ago

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Sanded nice and flat. image (resized).jpg

Doing that creates more paint work needs as the overlaps typically break through.

image (resized).jpg

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#992 5 years ago

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Chemically cleaned the EBD cabinet and head.

I will start with the head first

There are normal breakthroughs from leveling.
image (resized).jpg

Corrections needed
image (resized).jpg

I would like to get a little better contrast between the brownish color and gold.
They run a little bit too similar in shade. image (resized).jpg
And above all else I need to find a good spot to include some red.

image (resized).jpg

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#993 5 years ago

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So this is just a roughed in version of where I think the red could come in.
I didn’t detail mask or paint it because I don’t want to waste time until I know for certain
CE3B2772-58BB-4082-8C4F-27C0E45A8735 (resized).jpeg
Unmasked and placed just to. Get an idea.
image (resized).jpg
It looks better to me but I think just like I needed some red on the head I will need to balance that out with more cream on the lower.

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#994 5 years ago

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I was thinking of the red background on the head because that is what is on the backglass image (resized).jpg
It is also what I have on the lower.

image (resized).jpg

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#998 5 years ago

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Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:
I really like the bottom. I think it goes great with the backglass. But then the head has too much cream if that be the case.

Yes I actually have to start over on the head because the cream color is the base and then you stencil black first and brown we will call it over that so now that I have a better idea I have get that base of red down first.

The need keep a little of the cream makes it very complicated though because of the stencil order and changes but I will figure it out.
The lower is ok just needs some minor tweaks.
I think the only cream left on the head should be on the cowboy but it will take a good bit to get there.

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#999 5 years ago

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TAF underside is starting to build up.

All targets and sling switches are new and then placed.
4A1D0660-DFD7-4347-B6F2-97E137DEC487 (resized).jpeg
Since I am needing all new sockets and changing the style of a few I place some parts that may conflict with them as I go to make sure nothing will touch.

image (resized).jpg

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#1001 5 years ago

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Quoted from jawjaw:
Is there are concerns of the back of the flex head leds touching the metal brackets and causing shorts?

Not really as long as they are tight and positioned properly.
They have sleeves on the leads. The tightest one on this build is the shoot again
image (resized).jpg

The reason I change to the lay down style is because this style is not available and they are the most common sockets to fail. They typically spin freely and don’t make reliable contact on blown out games like the TAF donor.
image (resized).jpg

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#1002 5 years ago

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TAF underside wiring begins.
Starting with the switches.

image (resized).jpg

Every roll over will be color correct wired and placed on a single two pin plug.
image (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpg
The benefits of doing this are many but primarily they are that the switches are easily removed and replaced if needed,the ability to switch connectors around or simply unplug them helps diagnose problems that could pop up.

Here would be a vague example of that b

Is the switch good?
Plug it in to another spot and find out

Where is the short in the switch matrix coming from?

Find the row or column that is shorting and unplug one switch at a time until it goes away then inspect

It basically just enables maintenance and troubleshooting without the need to cut wires or solder in the game. It also speeds that process.

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#1004 5 years ago

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Switch prewire is now done
That was a true full day and I have not mated the actual harness yet but that should go much quicker.

image (resized).jpg

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#1005 5 years ago

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Now I can start mating the actual harness. image (resized).jpg

Pretty much everything needs to be reconfigured but the color correct wire and simplicity of the connectors chosen really helps make it self explanatory at this point.

image (resized).jpg

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#1007 5 years ago

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Is is possible to have Brunch on a Friday evening?
Yes it is.

image (resized).jpg

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#1008 5 years ago

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Quoted from Atari_Daze:
Idk what your fee would be for TAF work but man it would be worth it!

Thanks!
Definitely not enough on this one but when I get into these projects cost and effort rarely even pop up in my mind.
It is all about what it is going to take to make it as nice as I possibly can or solving problems.

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#1009 5 years ago

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One hidden thing that really is nice when placing nearly everything on plugs is the ability to tighten and clean up the entire harness.

There is a sloppiness from the factory where the wires exit the bundle any old where at any old length.
image (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpg

I can clip everything even and better thread and exit it. This provides some slack to reduce tension and neatens the harness working from the end forward.
image (resized).jpg

image (resized).jpg

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#1010 5 years ago

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Finishing up the last bit of reconfigurations to the switch harness.

Once I get to the end I am at the trough area and it takes a bit more effort to map it out and make it serviceable.

I remove the screw down terminals that act as junctions and holders for the diodes that go to the switches and install color correct wire. 28BC1694-C0F9-4679-9EDB-0D8FB176D99E (resized).jpeg

Then I place the diodes in line with the wires and seal them off. 02D5143E-5657-4FF5-A9F6-F8FAEBCB192B (resized).jpeg
C4657863-20F5-44CC-9E8D-6411502E9740 (resized).jpeg

Now I make a mini harness that groups the two switches on the trough plate and the outhole switch together.
These will now be treated as one sub assembly.

9321986D-DEEE-48BE-943D-F57D73231FD3 (resized).jpeg

D8F9DFCD-34CA-442D-B9DC-47751D5D4A37 (resized).jpeg

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#1011 5 years ago

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That completes the switch harness it is fully integrated less a couple parts left to place later.
Next will be the lamp harness.

79FCF134-D14D-4A1A-B14E-421DC0DA605C (resized).jpeg

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#1012 5 years ago

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I received some more stencils so I can better rework the EBD cabinet paint job.

The lower is pretty good as is but the head is going back to square one now that I have a better idea of what to do.

First I need some red to replace some cream.

image (resized).jpg

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#1013 5 years ago

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First head stencil color is black.

We don’t have the cream base to go over as designed.

This complication is what really makes it tough to map out cleanly. image (resized).jpg

What I am thinking to keep clean lines and turn down the cream but not overdo the red would be this.

The C means cream and R is red

I think this would give a cream skin tone,hat accent and red shirt accent.

This might look awesome or possibly horrible

image (resized).jpg

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#1014 5 years ago

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This took a bit of figuring out and time
Red was already down.
Then I had to map the cream out.
04479693-7F4F-4131-B8C5-F6B4BDB6B8F6 (resized).jpeg

Then place the stencil in pieces.
Maddening but only way to do it.
DAB266F6-8548-46EC-9E77-BB8B0931407C (resized).jpeg

Then black it out. 2442FA84-C961-42B6-9B9E-DABFADD8A6C3 (resized).jpeg

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#1015 5 years ago

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Now unmasked.
image (resized).jpg

Then checked on the lower for an idea of if it will be a good fit colorwise before doing the next color.

Looks good considering that I need to do the golds and Brown and make a correction or two.

image (resized).jpg

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#1016 5 years ago

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Head is stenciled in the now lighter brown shade.
It was dialed back a bit and is now more yellow.
095DD0DE-1680-4AA0-A864-A803A96FACB5 (resized).jpeg

Now unmasked and placed on the lower to continue to tweak the scheme
No gold was done on the head yet because with this many colors stacking it is best to clear it at this stage and then after sanding do the repaints needed and gold
What I am doing right now is catching the head back up with the lower.
The x are still on the head for now. image (resized).jpg

image (resized).jpg

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#1018 5 years ago

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Quoted from pinballinreno:
Looks a lot better.

Thanks. I eliminated the weird red strip in the stencil and cleared it for the first time in this scheme.
I have more plans to further dial it in but I was at a good save spot and it catches it up with the lower.

image (resized).jpg

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#1021 5 years ago

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Quoted from roar:
high_end_pins have you ever considered working some of these colour schemes out on a computer first? What you’ve worked out here is nothing short of amazing but it would seem to me you could run through combinations so much faster on a computer screen and not have to spend as much time mixing paint and sanding. Even if you did a screen sharing session with the pinballpimp I bet the two of you could work through dozens of combinations in 20 mintues with his digital assets and your eye.

Sounds good and might try that when I have a better plan in place but more often than not these are things I just decide to do as things start falling in place.
All my stencil work is sanded and repainted a couple times even when working with the original schemes so it is really just about figuring out the schemes and where to make changes when trying something different.
Kind of fun and stressful at the same time.

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#1024 5 years ago

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Quoted from j_m_:
not to be a "debbie downer", but would the hat and the face look better if you flipped the gold and cream?
edit:
then again, maybe not
[quoted image]

I think mostly it needs less cream and more red to balance it the lower which is heavy on the red side and looks nice overall.
The lower is mostly red with brown/gold accents. Cream is just used where appropriate for the eight ball
image (resized).jpg

I do have a much better foundation to work off of now and have some more things I plan on doing to get the visual balance needed to make the head and lower pair more easily.

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#1026 5 years ago

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Working on the sides.
Eliminating cream where possible and redoing the previously darker brown shade and going back over the gold.
9BBF16CE-406A-4AB0-AF89-B99A85DE8612 (resized).jpeg
41BE094A-190B-4D29-96CB-0F6B019084CA (resized).jpeg

Unmasked
image (resized).jpg

Little more contrast between the brown and gold and a bit cleaner looking without the random cream inclusions.
image (resized).jpg

image (resized).jpg

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#1027 5 years ago

OP

HEP

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Manually traced out the art on the head to leave a fairly even stencil like border
28166935-C02D-4F7F-853B-57009B1BF5C5 (resized).jpeg
Red

F06F88D9-BBEA-4BAC-BFE6-A240FDDCC395 (resized).jpeg

Eliminate the cream in the hat but stay true to the colors in place and add a little more natural looking stencil like detail. 0A35491D-FBA5-4AC5-A582-AC733E9C47A6 (resized).jpeg
Consult Jackie o
80A62591-D6B3-47D6-B01B-EEF33068AA39 (resized).jpeg

Place it on the lower.
Looks better ?gold not done yet

image (resized).jpg

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#1029 5 years ago

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HEP

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Got that too
I think the busy look in the shirt is ok because western shirts are like that it was the background overwhelmingly it
Now tweaked further.

image (resized).jpg

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#1031 5 years ago

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HEP

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Quoted from BorgDog:
better definitely. maybe consider putting black in the little triangle of red between the hand and arm, kinda balance that out a bit?

Yes plan on that and still need the gold too but it is starting to match up better with the lower.

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#1033 5 years ago

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HEP

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After a couple more revisions and then the gold stenciling I am fairly comfortable with this.
Might get a tweak or two before the final clear.
There are some details that aren’t going to be perfect but the schemes mesh from the lower to the head.
Backglass looks good in place so hard to ask for much better given the limitations.

image (resized).jpg

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#1034 5 years ago

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HEP

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Which looks better?
Busy or plainer shirt ?

image (resized).jpg

Super exclusive ad from the Pinside Marketplace!

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#1037 5 years ago

HEP

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Quoted from jasonp:
I like Busy

I have definitely seen that busy shirt at a couple of the country western bars in Monroe

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#1039 5 years ago

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HEP

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Quoted from jasonp:
Wouldn't catch me in any bar in Monroe .....

Me either just comb the parking lot looking for chicks

Joking only joking.

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#1044 5 years ago

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HEP

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Taking in some of the feedback and also using my own eye live and in person I scaled the red back a little more and two toned the hat.
I think the hat will be more obvious once cleared. image (resized).jpg

The cream in the hat is easy to add or eliminate but I just think that cream on the hat takes the impact of the cowboys face and hands away and it looks strange to have more cream on a small section of the head than the entire lower cabinet.
image (resized).jpg

image (resized).jpg

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#1046 5 years ago

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HEP

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Quoted from g94:
I love your red cabinet.
I think that actually the artwork on the head is simply not as good as the cabinet. I slightly modified it when drawing my own stencils and removed some clutter that was related to the limitations of their production process. But most of all I didn't like that the original art isn't mirrored.
[quoted image]

Thank you.
That looks great.
The head is definitely trickier than the lower as designed.
I think I finally found a good spot for it overall and now I am just cleaning up some minor details and sloppiness.

image (resized).jpg

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#1047 5 years ago

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HEP

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Cleaned up the details on the head now that I have it finalized.
Got the borders tight
Some manual cut outs and shaping to get the fingers in order 4E882CDF-A773-4253-BD5A-0173BDB5A570 (resized).jpeg

This should work

image (resized).jpg

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#1048 5 years ago

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HEP

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EBD cabinet cleared again

image (resized).jpg

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#1051 5 years ago

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HEP

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Quoted from cosmokramer:
How much time total was spent on stenciling the head, not including priming?
Looks great...we appreciated you taking the time to not only document the process, but to answer our questions as well

I don’t track my time too well but I do get a sense when something is taking much more time and effort than the normal process.
Just going on the fact that I started painting it a week ago and have put time into it daily since then I am going to guess thirty hours so far.
There is a lot more to it like mixing paint,cleaning guns,masking the cabinet overall,manual cut outs ,clearing,sanding
The reality of that is that I will still sand and clear it once more,there is internal blocking to place and only by THEN should be ready to actually use.

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#1053 5 years ago

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HEP

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Quoted from chad:
I bet Chris could paint a backglass from scratch.

I hope I never have to try that.
Imagine all the revisions

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#1054 5 years ago

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HEP

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So back to the TAF
It is really time consuming on the wiring side.
With all the sockets being replaced and the need in my mind to eliminate all the generic daisy chains it is best just to make an all new GI wire run.
There are two strands on TAF
Violet and brown meaning 4 wires
AC05B1F4-DA1C-4C78-801F-138037CFE656 (resized).jpeg

It will take a lot of wire to do it A2B3B54D-94B8-4AF4-8C33-3C4411DEE772 (resized).jpeg

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#1055 5 years ago

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HEP

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Since it is a new full run I will use 18 gauge

I can’t thread that gauge through the holes and I don’t like breaking the strands so I strip openings in the insulation as I go then wrap the socket legs. 6F056AD8-D1C3-4B77-B82E-07665BFC18DE (resized).jpeg
2227C42C-6ADD-4AAB-B3F8-90F8A146CDBA (resized).jpeg

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#1056 5 years ago

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HEP

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As it runs I remove the factory run and fish my own in. image (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpg
During this time I also secure and rework the feature lamp wiring with only color correct wire.

image (resized).jpg

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#1058 5 years ago

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HEP

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EBD cabinet dried overnight and I can place the head on the lower and get a better sense of how it is all going to mesh together. A1F8E7C7-0385-42FD-A979-64C419A3CB90 (resized).jpeg
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Looks good. Check the glass to make double sure there are no conflicts with the art within reason.
D3FA7EC5-0D63-4641-AC74-9132DC199E52 (resized).jpeg

Happy with that.
Next step for it will be the final sand and matte clear application. Probably going to go about eighty percent gloss level on this one so it will have a nice sheen but not overwhelming.
I will let it set one more day first so the clear can really settle in around the paint lines before I sand it flat.

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#1059 5 years ago

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HEP

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TAF playfield Build continues.
This is probably my most involved TAF playfield rewire to date.
Just haven’t had one need this much extra attention but it wasn’t the wiring itself that made it need so much more rewiring it was the metal condition and corrosion that created this extra need.

image (resized).jpg
The GI wiring is done and most of the feature lamps are as well.
image (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpg

This is a good example of the difference in the thin short generic factory run and my new run.
image (resized).jpg

image (resized).jpg

I have not terminated the end yet I will when I get to the connectors in the head but I left plenty of wire to do so. image (resized).jpg

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#1060 5 years ago

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HEP

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TAF needs a new opto board just based on appearance. image (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpg

The replacement does not have brackets.

image (resized).jpg

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#1061 5 years ago

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HEP

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HEP

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12y 142K 12,536

New opto board has brackets now C6790891-D986-4943-B116-7713E04EB7DD (resized).jpeg

Installed.

image (resized).jpg

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#1067 5 years ago

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HEP

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Placing the final coil assemblies and wiring in the TAF underside.

image (resized).jpg

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#1068 5 years ago

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HEP

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It is getting neater as I can zip tie and route the final wiring.
image (resized).jpg

All the wedge style flasher sockets are trashed.
image (resized).jpg

I plan on using the factory correct style on the power inserts but went with the bayonet style for the large flasher insert in the graveyard area.
This is a tougher area to swap bulbs in surrounded by the the jet bumpers and I find these easier to remove and reinstall there. image (resized).jpg

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#1070 5 years ago

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HEP

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Quoted from snakesnsparklers:
Will you be adding fuses to the magnets?

Yes I will.

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#1072 5 years ago

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HEP

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Quoted from pinballinreno:
I really like the new weebly replacement magnet board (https://nvram.weebly.com/new-pcbs.html) with the mini fuses.
Its a better design and It's slick.

Thanks for the link. I am definitely going to need one for my next TAF project.

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#1074 5 years ago

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HEP

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Mid day workout and break are complete.

Today was skier and kettlebell intervals.
If anyone that follows this thread is into fitness or would like to get started the Concept 2 products are excellent. They re reasonably priced and they take very little space. You can work 80 % to 85% of your body with the skier or rower it can be as easy or hard as you would like to make it. It is all about movement and low impact.
Most programs have work time or distance and a rest time. I use the rest time to do other exercises if doing cardio or scale the intensity back and use it as a light warm up or cool down prior to or after lifting.
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Still working on the King salmon

DE341514-C23F-42D0-AAC1-90A65AA7FD70 (resized).jpeg

That is the health and diet update portion today or this week. It rarely changes honestly.

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#1075 5 years ago

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HEP

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Now the TAF magnet fusing.
I replace the single holder with a four block. D88A6D53-C411-4F69-9853-998B6428F371 (resized).jpeg
3F45788F-76AC-4C77-9483-F46D88A76DC5 (resized).jpeg

Then wire it color correct using the block as a break in the individual magnet lines.

image (resized).jpg

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#1076 5 years ago

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HEP

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HEP

Matthews, NC

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TAF playfield wiring is complete.
This rivaled doing a Bally solid state game in terms of soldering time.
image (resized).jpg

Roughly zip tied for now until the final assembly is done.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

Wires are just out of Mavericks reach. image (resized).jpg

Let’s toast.

image (resized).jpg

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#1078 5 years ago

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HEP

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Quoted from Stokoloog:
While working on the playfields I noticed that you don't use a rotisserie. Is there a reason for that or did I misimpreted the pictures you posted?

I use windshield cradles.
If you are just doing this occasionally or one at a time a rotisserie is ok but I much prefer the versatility of windshield cradles

Holds the playfield image (resized).jpg

Throw a nice thick piece of plywood on it and you have an instant extra workbench. image (resized).jpg

When you are done with it image (resized).jpg

Put it up
image (resized).jpg

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#1079 5 years ago

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HEP

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Use it in the paint shop when clearing playfields image (resized).jpg

This repurposed bike holder will hold three of the cradles.

image (resized).jpg

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#1080 5 years ago

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HEP

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I am going to decal the apron.

I previously sanded repaired repainted and cleared it.

There is a possibility that new aprons will be available and that would be most ideal but until then we will go this route.
01037CA2-DF2F-4823-89DA-5063BFED0229 (resized).jpeg

New decals are applied. There are a variety of these out there. This version is very close in color and look nice overall.
Don’t ask what version because I don’t know anything other than they are not the ones on EBay
Decal as applied to the apron and were not needed for the shooter cover.

If I wanted to I could clear over these and sand and clear to really seal them in.
The problem with that is it can be a disaster as well if the decals don’t react well to the clear and it would be worth the risk if there were no alternatives on the horizon. If I were going to do that I would have started the process earlier as it can be time consuming.

image (resized).jpg

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#1083 5 years ago

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HEP

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Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:
I've always wondered. A rotisserie makes things so much simpler but I get you have a process.
So...you populate the first layer on the topside, flip it over, populate the majority of the underside, then place it in the game to finish the rest of the topside?

It depends on the game as far as the assembly order.
I can do it either way mostly built and finished in the game or built entirely and drop it in.
What I do is based on an entire operation and space so it is better and simpler for me as a whole.

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#1085 5 years ago

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HEP

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TAF cabinet wiring is complete.

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

TAF uses a low profile set block for the prop rod because of clearance issues with the thing box
I make a slimmer prop holder to avoid the problem as well

image (resized).jpg

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#1091 5 years ago

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HEP

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Had to run to the metal fabrication and powdercoater.
Had some metal panels made for my Bally SS projects.
Just the large rear panel not the sides because we are using a thicker material more similar to the later panels used on newer games.That material does not bend like the tin foil material orginally used it also does not drill or staple so they punched the holes for me.

image (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpg

I had five made just to try it out because I have a EBD LE conversion and a Centaur 2 conversion and neither would have panels to reuse.
image (resized).jpg

They also had a couple final pieces for the TAF

image (resized).jpg

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#1093 5 years ago

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HEP

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Quoted from RandomTask:
Is that galvanized steel panels? Sorta like duct work?

It is aluminum.
I chose that because it is conductive since these are just grounding panels really but non magnetic like the original tin.

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#1094 5 years ago

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HEP

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Quoted from pzy:
Any idea when you might start work on that STTNG you just sold? Can't wait to see it here!

Should start that one around February.
New owner lives in snow country and doesn’t want to deal with moving it in until spring.

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#1095 5 years ago

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HEP

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Quoted from Cserold:
Looking good Chris. Where do you buy these guys?[quoted image]

Home Depot I think.
You can probably order them in bulk somewhere which is my next plan as I started using them more and more on my black cabinet games.
First time using only black screws in them as well this time around.

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#1096 5 years ago

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HEP

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Rotisserie

image (resized).jpg

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#1098 5 years ago

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HEP

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Ready to sand the EBD cabinet and get it prepped for the final clear.

image (resized).jpg

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#1099 5 years ago

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HEP

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Why is this step needed ?

When stenciling two things naturally happen
You create sharp paint lines and edges as one color builds around other.
A light scuff across highlights how the gold and red are closer to the surface than the black. image (resized).jpg

Another thing that happens is the clear will build up around the biggest edges and slightly gather.
Not a true run or curtains so much just a heavier edge.
image (resized).jpg

Another area this easily happens on the sacrificial coats of clear are around holes.
Leg bolt holes are usually the biggest and most obvious. These would be tough to spot without having scuffed across them lightly to highlight it. image (resized).jpg

This sanding step will put a nice final level on everything and then it will be in my hands to spray it perfectly without recreating any of those issues.
That is tough for the average painter these have lots of straight edges but having the surface prepped right and working for you not against you helps.

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#1100 5 years ago

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HEP

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Lower is sanded nice and flat.
image (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpg

Any minor breakthroughs are noted with tape. EC109CFD-F44A-4FC5-8BCD-3DB6B7C46783 (resized).jpeg
EC109CFD-F44A-4FC5-8BCD-3DB6B7C46783 (resized).jpeg

At this point it will take just a minor mask and mist of base color to clean them up.

9A7BAD85-B6BB-406E-890E-95463254E596 (resized).jpeg

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#1102 5 years ago

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Quoted from Jvspin:
EBD cabinet looks great. On the head, I liked when the you had the red background as it matched the back glass, but understand the challenge then with too much cream in the border.
The only thing that strikes me a little odd now it the red along the neck line. Tough to tell if it's all shirt or shirt + neck in the original. Seems like it's missing a little cream to highlight the flesh tone in his neck to match the lighting on his face.
Fantastic job though. What a special cabinet for the buyer.

It is just shadowing really.
Stencils are all about taking two or three colors and some shapes to create an idea or illusion so I try to stay true to that when I do these color changes and not over think it.
It’s all about working within the basic layout or parameters of the original.
There are some projects others have posted on here that do the more realistic mural style repaints but it isn’t what I aim to do.
I always think of it as strictly a color option. Just like you could get the same car in more than one color scheme it opens that door but it sometimes takes some sorting out.
I am thrilled with this cabinet as it setsand would be scared to even consider anymore changes.

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#1104 5 years ago

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HEP

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Minor corrects are made. There were only two or three so that is a surprise.

image (resized).jpg

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#1106 5 years ago

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HEP

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Quoted from kcZ:
Your level of patience is unreal. I would have been sick of painting that EBD cabinet long ago. At this point it would be giving me nightmares.

I have an eighteen year old autistic son that chants the same phrases and ask the same questions over and over and over and over again.
That is a 10 on the patience scale.
This cabinet is a solid 5 though.

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#1108 5 years ago

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HEP

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Quoted from TheJerol:
Hell, Chris.
I thought we'd at LEAST get you to a "7"...

Don’t worry. I still have the conversion ahead of me

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#1109 5 years ago

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HEP

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Cabinet is ready for the final clear

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#1110 5 years ago

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HEP

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First coat will be full gloss to give a nice basis to build the matte clear off of.
This coat dries faster than the matte and will slightly wick out of it as it cures.
First Clear down full gloss.

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#1111 5 years ago

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HEP

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Now for the matte clear.
Based on ratios I can dial gloss levels up or down.
I really think this cabinet and color scheme are going to show best at about 75-80% gloss levels.
That will give a nice reflective sheen but it won’t have an unnaturally wet look.
Here we have matte clear
2090F14B-7108-4A30-9256-CA179D8BA598 (resized).jpeg

Here we have straight clear
39AB8A6E-7B8C-47A2-BB0C-38B5241BAD6E (resized).jpeg

By mixing them together in certain ratios I can formulate the gloss level
The true clear is much more powerful than the matte so less of that and more of the matte is a known to me.
How much less or more depends on the application. 352ACDB0-8B1B-44A7-970C-0DE5F851B343 (resized).jpeg

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#1113 5 years ago

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HEP

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Final clear is down.
It will remain glossy looking until it dries overnight.
It is as flawless a job as can possibly be done straight out of the gun and that is important because sanding and polishing are not an option on s matte clear finish as that process would make it too glossy and defeat the purpose.

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#1116 5 years ago

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HEP

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Quoted from Bohdi:
That looks so awesome! I'd give my left leg and nut for this EBD, and my EBD

Great!
All HEP donor cards are also matte cleared.

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#1117 5 years ago

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Night shift has checked in
Glazed with the Oil of Aphrodite

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#1118 5 years ago

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Final details are made with the TAF project.
Going with my first ever two tone blue chrome/white button combo
Comes close to the look of the hand there.
Straight blue just wouldn’t do it.
Blue start button of course that is a great match.

image (resized).jpg

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#1119 5 years ago

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HEP

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Matthews, NC

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HEP-nontisserie invented this morning
It has a true lockbar receiver
image (resized).jpg

Magnetic tray holder
image (resized).jpg

Wire harness holder.
image (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpg

It is semi official.
image (resized).jpg

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#1123 5 years ago

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HEP

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HEP

Matthews, NC

12y 142K 12,536

Quoted from Aniraf:
There has to be some way for you to monetize this thread. It is amazing! I read it every single night.
Not that I don’t love Pinside, but you should be getting some advertising income for this. It is not easy to both do all this amazing work, then document it for us while fielding questions.
Thank you for the entertainment and education!

Thanks if people enjoy the thread and I am getting paid for anything you see me working on that is good enough for me.
Life’s too short to try and chase every dollar you possibly can. I actually think I have been purposely sabotaging my own income for years.

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5

#1124 5 years ago

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HEP

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HEP

Matthews, NC

12y 142K 12,536

Quoted from ToucanF16:
How many pins do you generally have in queue for restoration? It demand cyclical?

Usually 20-25 these days.
About 10 years ago it was 50 or more but I had help and we just kind of cranked them out. It was at a high level but not the same as today’s.
I slowly figured out back then that it cost more to do more and in the end I netted about the same thing so I have been working over the years to scale it back to where it is now.
It is pretty steady.

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5

#1125 5 years ago

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HEP

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12y 142K 12,536

Starting to close in on the final parts and pieces of the TAF.

This rarely drags out this long but it is just one of those games where everything you look at needs help even something as simple as this opto pair.

The wires are broke or breaking. The screws are corrodedCA7A31FA-DD89-4057-86D8-CF42813CE317 (resized).jpeg

The receiver is placed in the emitter housing. That means the opto that collects the light is in the white housing when it should be in the black.
It is just cosmetic in a way but it could also make you wire a set up incorrectly. 272F97C2-A70A-4C31-B15E-B712020AFBE4 (resized).jpeg

That being the case I am making up a whole new set. 41BFAC78-A2D7-43D0-809D-C01A5D67E03E (resized).jpeg

New set built with fresh wires,tubing and connectors. 9ED18C57-8A42-4FF4-A9B1-D28CFE34C969 (resized).jpeg

Now in place with new screws C3B8D831-B6AF-4F9A-B259-34058FAEE800 (resized).jpeg

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6

#1126 5 years ago

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HEP

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HEP

Matthews, NC

12y 142K 12,536

I had the metal fabricator weld a spare swamp scoop I had he did that and also assumed I wanted it powder coated with my other parts.
I wasn’t expecting that but since it was a spare I though “so what? No big deal. “
After I looked at it I was like “Hmmm that might look pretty cool since it is the swamp scoop and that shows a good bit anyway .”
I built it up and installed it.

53F4FFC1-7F98-47FB-B90F-47791A3D764A (resized).jpeg

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5

#1127 5 years ago

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HEP

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HEP

Matthews, NC

12y 142K 12,536

Now I am placing a new plastic set. D3F652F4-78E9-402C-8E00-8C882E4C2E43 (resized).jpeg

I think the jet bumper area is going to look good. First time scheme on this one so you have to think a couple steps ahead but with the plastics starting to surround I am confident in it. 0E9733F5-7055-4FA0-B370-46619B0C81D0 (resized).jpeg

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6

#1128 5 years ago

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HEP

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HEP

Matthews, NC

12y 142K 12,536

I want to change the flasher dome color on the plastic stack because I think a lower profile yellow one will look better on this build image (resized).jpg

I also want to use the style without the extended legs for a little cleaner look.
image (resized).jpg

This presents a tiny challenge.
First I need to make the hole larger in the plastic.
Screwed down FAA6D41C-E796-4AA3-B7EB-AE531A8D2502 (resized).jpeg

Forstener bit is my best bet for a clean cut. E0C1F80E-9E75-4611-A031-3B7C9CA3370C (resized).jpeg

Drilled. Centering is crucial E33CD446-80C7-4B2B-806D-6FC214831627 (resized).jpeg

Looks good. A1FDDB26-095D-41E4-A9FB-66AA15AB84B1 (resized).jpeg
Check fit
A4044517-B76A-406D-9C4F-5E86DE0F49EB (resized).jpeg
Break two tabs off the fit the little flasher board. 44958860-99BA-4DEC-9FC4-9FCE1560E8AF (resized).jpeg

Riveted and built8AE7B331-3791-4335-A34D-D985C0A2A37A (resized).jpeg

8F18A0F5-6CF5-4E37-A077-F261E6F7CAAC (resized).jpeg

In place.
A794B9F9-956A-4384-8872-75C64B4B613B (resized).jpeg

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6

#1131 5 years ago

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HEP

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HEP

Matthews, NC

12y 142K 12,536

Next plastic sub assembly I want to rework is this one.
I don’t like to see wires if I can avoid it.
I also find this one comes up short in the wiring length if I route it the way I like.
595D8E7A-A035-4561-8E24-964B23127C5B (resized).jpeg
9DBD64F2-7AAE-4BB2-A549-CD6C55B8C09D (resized).jpeg

Drill the sockets off43C90E9C-7B40-4F7F-B66B-3EFCC40A55EC (resized).jpeg

Now polish them because these are best reused when possible the holder is longer and thinner than replacements now sold and fit the plastic better as a result. 9CF6439A-CFD4-4451-A40A-B226E454AD0B (resized).jpeg

Riveted onto a new plastic 19D0D5CA-F02A-45EF-AF5E-709AE695E617 (resized).jpeg

Now for the wires I generally am color coordinating the black wires because they are going to hide best. If it was orange then it is now black/orange ,red now black /red
DB6867EB-7A38-40A9-9442-35EBEEC5FED3 (resized).jpeg

Now a pass through hole is drilled in both plastics of the assembly 009793B4-D113-4F08-B6BE-A6524C49858C (resized).jpegAF35E6EA-C604-4E12-AD58-15D09F47B176 (resized).jpeg

It is then built up.

E24945C6-07BF-4151-BFE8-45C68D259B95 (resized).jpeg

63275F7B-2BC0-4BA3-8434-6A6C0CE72342 (resized).jpeg

B0E258E9-ECD5-4C46-96EA-D9088E619AD8 (resized).jpeg

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7

#1132 5 years ago

OP

HEP

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HEP

Matthews, NC

12y 142K 12,536

The extended and protected wiring lets me really tuck the harness in
BD538558-63C5-49E4-8345-FCBF73FA7F3C (resized).jpeg
Now in place. Cleaner looking

FAFA8BAF-BB15-4743-81F1-82A4212A71B1 (resized).jpeg

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5

#1135 5 years ago

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HEP

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HEP

Matthews, NC

12y 142K 12,536

Quoted from Cserold:
Amazing detail. Goodness.
Chris, couple of questions if I may.
1. you often mention “nicer/fuller” rivets. Where do you buy them?
2. When you cut custom ramp flaps, what do you use to cut the metal and round the corners?
Love this new thread format

This is a perfect, short description of Chris’ work. Chris, maybe the start to a new HEP tag line.

The rivets usually come from Pinrestore
The undesirable ones are standard pop rivets which have a hole in them.

I cut the flap material into roughly the shape I am after then clamp it between two paint paddles and use a mini die grinder to shape it.
I think towards the beginning of this thread when I was making the Alien replacement flaps there is a slight overview of it.

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#1137 5 years ago

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HEP

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HEP

Matthews, NC

12y 142K 12,536

EBD cabinet has graduated from the paint shop.
Final gloss level has been approved.

image (resized).jpg

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6

#1138 5 years ago

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HEP

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HEP

Matthews, NC

12y 142K 12,536

Tomorrow I will start working on. Cutting and placing the internal block work for the playfield runners and building up the new lamp panel.
That will be totally from scratch since the LE is a much different configuration.

image (resized).jpg

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7

#1139 5 years ago

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HEP

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HEP

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12y 142K 12,536

Back to TAF

Building the swamp plasticimage (resized).jpg

I will add a little lighting image (resized).jpg

Map it out

image (resized).jpg

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5

#1140 5 years ago

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HEP

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Matthews, NC

12y 142K 12,536

Locations for the sockets are drilled and riveted.
Sockets are wired with green and green/black wiring to match the art on the plastic. image (resized).jpg

Small hole drilled for a zip tie. Black of course.

image (resized).jpg

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6

#1141 5 years ago

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HEP

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Matthews, NC

12y 142K 12,536

Swamp plastic built and wired.

You can’t tell it is wired and lit really up top.

I have already added a GI tap for the connector when so wired the playfield.

image (resized).jpg

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6

#1142 5 years ago

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HEP

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12y 142K 12,536

Swamp plastic placed.
When doing this it is slightly raised in the lower area so the ball will clear the bulb easily
Then tested.

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

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8

#1143 5 years ago

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HEP

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HEP

Matthews, NC

12y 142K 12,536

Added yellow covers to the green bulbs to turn them down just a notch and make the color a little better in my eyes.

image (resized).jpg

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5

#1144 5 years ago

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HEP

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HEP

Matthews, NC

12y 142K 12,536

The next thing I want to do is build up the new ramp. image (resized).jpg

It is a pretty big job as far as ramps go
4 switches
3 flashers
2 lights
1 sign

In this case add lots of rusty screws and corrosion.

image (resized).jpg

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5

#1145 5 years ago

OP

HEP

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HEP

Matthews, NC

12y 142K 12,536

Before I do anything I need to check the fit.

The thickness of the new ramp is both a blessing and s curse.
Much easier to make corrections now.

image (resized).jpg

The main frustration I run into at least half the time is the divertor dragging on the cut out.
image (resized).jpg
In order to really check this I have to screw it down as it would be when truly installed. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

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6

#1146 5 years ago

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HEP

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Matthews, NC

12y 142K 12,536

It clears well at the mounting point
image (resized).jpg

Runs very close at the end when activated though. image (resized).jpg

Another thing I want to check is the alignment of the divertor with the ramp.
Not ideal.
image (resized).jpg

The arm is adjusted/bent in a manner that solves both issues.

image (resized).jpg

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6

#1147 5 years ago

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HEP

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HEP

Matthews, NC

12y 142K 12,536

Playfield can go in the cabinet now and I will wrap it up inside there.

image (resized).jpg

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5

#1148 5 years ago

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HEP

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HEP

Matthews, NC

12y 142K 12,536

HEP nontisserie converted back to a workbench.
Now the ramp swapping center

image (resized).jpg

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6

#1151 5 years ago

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HEP

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HEP

Matthews, NC

12y 142K 12,536

This is about. All that is worth salvaging off the old ramp. image (resized).jpg

I will replace all the switches and make a new harness.
image (resized).jpg

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6

#1155 5 years ago

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HEP

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HEP

Matthews, NC

12y 142K 12,536

Getting ready to power up the TAF for the first time.
When a game requires so much rewire from the power box on it can be a little unsettling to plug it in and throw the switch for the first time.
Add the needed replacement boards into the mix and that just makes it worse.

Before I can power up I need just a few more wiring repairs and corrections/additions.

Repairs will be GI
EA6330F1-DA2B-4DD9-8D28-7A096572515C (resized).jpeg

Stray cabinet lamp wire
5AC2CC15-64F1-4C63-A30C-2A1C54E38CDA (resized).jpeg

Solenoid connector
D7DF340A-8ED4-475E-9F52-1C7312A34CF6 (resized).jpeg

Additions needed
12 volt tap for the topper lighting mod
A8E52387-DDEA-461B-876B-0810E65F7496 (resized).jpeg

Connector for the sub woofer in the cabinet to the speaker panel.
8E970F7A-6C75-42B8-A896-C3B0E9244E01 (resized).jpeg

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8

#1156 5 years ago

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HEP

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HEP

Matthews, NC

12y 142K 12,536

Repairs and additions are made
Rebuilt or remade connectors
094390A9-864F-4712-A968-C8CEDD0871C2 (resized).jpeg

Power tap3A838AED-B9B1-4742-B540-74FE4B273878 (resized).jpeg

Speaker panel connector. Speaker panel now has the proper THING light board 22C47382-1B36-4189-9A8E-342841FADBCB (resized).jpeg

The CPU wires pictured were missing the keepers so they were all individually reset and a light pass of hot glue is used only in the recess of the connector to insure that will stay put when the game gets folded up and travels back across the country.

503B48B9-D5C6-4359-BFD6-816C260C009D (resized).jpeg

Looks pretty tidy back here for now

96AE8AD5-E145-4414-8081-B617C145D89F (resized).jpeg

It lives no false starts,tripped breakers or blown fuses so things are looking good now. 03F7C641-AD65-4AE8-9D45-9395468CE3E8 (resized).jpeg

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5

#1157 5 years ago

OP

HEP

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HEP

Matthews, NC

12y 142K 12,536

Back at the warehouse
New arrivals

B6B878B5-6C07-439F-8D6B-60878B4A7C91 (resized).jpeg

E0A140A8-9182-44EC-B8DE-1066C9BC2E4C (resized).jpeg

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7

#1158 5 years ago

OP

HEP

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HEP

Matthews, NC

12y 142K 12,536

Pulling the EBD donor game.

image (resized).jpg

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6

#1161 5 years ago

OP

HEP

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HEP

Matthews, NC

12y 142K 12,536

I am building a couple EBDs
All will be based on traditional version
Loaded up the various games and parts needed to do two games. 82111E27-5B40-4AA7-871E-AFAFB1A8A3AF (resized).jpeg

Unloading
Pinball dojo is starting to get crowded.
This happens when it takes three games and two extra cabinets to work off of.
It is like a five game footprint for now.
A301D6F7-0356-43AB-9F32-7D91989E0DC8 (resized).jpegimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

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8

#1162 5 years ago

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HEP

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HEP

Matthews, NC

12y 142K 12,536

Got this one set up.
My goal is to copy all the best details of it for both builds. image (resized).jpg
This is the biggest thing image (resized).jpg

I don’t mind wiring individual sockets obviously but if I could figure out a way to use these on both builds instead it would be nice.

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#1164 5 years ago

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HEP

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Matthews, NC

12y 142K 12,536

I was asked a couple times about the low profile prop rod holder.

I have lots of these bookcase shims around here having done many TAFs.
Two small holes are drilled.
918CCD5F-99E9-4209-8999-B361CD61F8F4 (resized).jpeg

Then small screws attach it on the backside of the set block.
B7169F65-5EFF-4808-80A7-3B1A98D307D7 (resized).jpeg

It is set to give a slight tension to the prop against the block. 947CF4ED-547F-4C3C-A010-EF141CF3E9BC (resized).jpeg

That is it really. Could be used on almost any game missing the prop holder.

9FF55F02-4755-48F3-8DF0-6A3C21B642D7 (resized).jpeg

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6

#1165 5 years ago

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HEP

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Matthews, NC

12y 142K 12,536

I expect to get the last parts needed for the TAF today.
It isn’t that I don’t plan well in advance but sometimes I decide something might look better or be an improvement as the game assembles so that was the case with TAF as it starts to fall together.
The final hold up is the jet bumper lighting and that means I can’t place the ramp.
Knowing the lights should be here today I can go ahead and put the time into building the new ramp
The guides are regrained and installed with new screws. image (resized).jpg

The gates and brackets are also cleaned and grained or polished with new switches installed. image (resized).jpg

Now I want to make a nice new clean harness for it.
This is the old one. image (resized).jpg
There are really two harnesses.
Switch
image (resized).jpg

Flasher
image (resized).jpg

This lets me know the wire colors needed.

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6

#1166 5 years ago

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HEP

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12y 142K 12,536

Wiring is pulled.
All wiring is organized by its purpose

Typical flasher combination uses
2B710D12-7970-41AC-9380-37E77599CBBD (resized).jpeg
Typical switch combination uses for example F33DA5E2-363E-4DEF-9B9A-4D8D1D9073F9 (resized).jpeg

This birds nest of wiring will soon become a new part of the game. image (resized).jpg

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5

#1168 5 years ago

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HEP

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Matthews, NC

12y 142K 12,536

All switches are prewired.
All four share the green/blue wire and the white/?? Is what makes them specific to their location and purpose.

image (resized).jpg

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#1169 5 years ago

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HEP

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HEP

Matthews, NC

12y 142K 12,536

Quoted from Langless28:
I'm drooling over your wire stash.

I still have one more rack and color series I want to build up just need to find some space on the wall for it.

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#1170 5 years ago

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HEP

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Matthews, NC

12y 142K 12,536

Parts arrived.

image (resized).jpg

Ever since we started getting Maverick a Barkbox he thinks all packages are for him and looks depressed when they are just lousy pinball parts.

E018A7EC-8DFE-4763-B6B0-C7B8D7992EB3 (resized).jpeg

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7

#1171 5 years ago

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HEP

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HEP

Matthews, NC

12y 142K 12,536

Caps and lighting are finalized.
I really wanted to do yellow caps but they just show a little too much of the brite cap underneath.

I like the way the green lighting mirrors the swamp lighting across the playfield.

image (resized).jpg

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6

#1172 5 years ago

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HEP

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HEP

Matthews, NC

12y 142K 12,536

Ramp wiring is progressing.

image (resized).jpg

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1

#1175 5 years ago

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HEP

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Matthews, NC

12y 142K 12,536

Quoted from wallybgood:
Hey Chris
If you ever need .100 or .156 IDC strain relief covers, they are available here:
https://www.mouser.com/Search/Refine.aspx?N=4292906361&Keyword=mta100+cover+connectors
https://www.mouser.com/Search/Refine.aspx?Keyword=mta156+cover
Wally

Thank you Wally.
I am definitely seeing a need for them more often these days.

By High_End_Pins

5 years ago

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