I’m not a wood guy but how does that happen. Bad wood to start with assembled wrong? And no dense I wouldn’t think a cabinet maker would let that product out of their shop.
(Topic ID: 225528)
Linked Games
Addams Family, The
Bally, 1992-
Airborne
Capcom, 1996
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Alien (Heighway Pinball)
Heighway Pinball, 2017
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Black Knight
Williams, 1980
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Bram Stoker's Dracula
Williams, 1993
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Centaur
Bally, 1981
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Centigrade 37
Gottlieb, 1977
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Champion Pub
Bally, 1998
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Matthews, NC
Quoted from GCS2000:I’m not a wood guy but how does that happen. Bad wood to start with assembled wrong? And no dense I wouldn’t think a cabinet maker would let that product out of their shop.
I wish I knew.
The cabinets are well stored but some are unusable once it’s time to get to it.
I’m starting to think those gold license stickers are the kiss of death.
Kirk is great though I am not talking shit about him at all. He will make it right but to answer Grover’s question I just can’t risk those kind of problems if I can avoid them.
You would never get a playfield in a cabinet like that.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Me either. Firewood.
I have had some with some minor issues but that’s the worst.
That’s an anomaly though isn’t it. Don’t you buy all your cabinets from him?
Quoted from mmr61184:That’s an anomaly though isn’t it. Don’t you buy all your cabinets from him?
It varies.
I have helped most/all the cabinet builders I have or still deal with perfect their product by providing samples to copy for accuracy giving feedback,highlighting issues etc.
None have been consistently reliable or don’t need to be checked behind at all.
Building these cabinets is much harder than most would realize.
They are much more game specific than it seems. Tolerances are important.
Minor things like pivot locations,the thickness of the cabinet top plate are crucial.
Even putting set blocks that are too thick on a TAF prop rod can be problematic.
I have had finished cabinets I could not fit a backglass in fixed backboards that were too long that wouldn’t let the playfield come to rest ,transformer footprints misdrilled and much more.
Anyone that has not had any issues hasn’t seen or done enough of them yet.
You have to scrutinize them and know what to look for. Sometimes it’s obvious like this or missing flipper button holes.
Other times it will make itself known in the most unpredictable way at the worst time.
I am pro new cabinets but have to decide sometimes if it’s worth the extra risk.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:It varies.
I have helped most/all the cabinet builders I have or still deal with perfect their product by providing samples to copy for accuracy giving feedback,highlighting issues etc.
None have been consistently reliable or don’t need to be checked behind at all.
Building these cabinets is much harder than most would realize.
They are much more game specific than it seems. Tolerances are important.
Minor things like pivot locations,the thickness of the cabinet top plate are crucial.
Even putting set blocks that are too thick on a TAF prop rod can be problematic.
I have had finished cabinets I could not fit a backglass in fixed backboards that were too long that wouldn’t let the playfield come to rest ,transformer footprints misdrilled and much more.
Anyone that has not had any issues hasn’t seen or done enough of them yet.
You have to scrutinize them and know what to look for. Sometimes it’s obvious like this or missing flipper button holes.
Other times it will make itself known in the most unpredictable way at the worst time.
I am pro new cabinets but have to decide sometimes if it’s worth the extra risk.
Wow that is really eye opening, I am going new cabinet for a TAF resto that makes me slightly nervous
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Me either. Firewood.
I have had some with some minor issues but that’s the worst.
Of course, I’m always expecting to have to tweak or fix some minor issues. Most trying to get new cabs, think they are just slapping paint and decals on, it’s just not a simple turnkey process for sure.
Quoted from Tophervette:I feel really lucky that the cabinet I got from Ohio was perfect in every respect for my WPC 89.
I am using virtuapin for my TAF heard lots of great things about him from many of the respected guys on the site. Plus I talked to him for about 2 hours felt really good coming out of the conversation. I assume that’s why his runtime is 4 months
Quoted from Tophervette:I feel really lucky that the cabinet I got from Ohio was perfect in every respect for my WPC 89.
It’s a law of averages for me mostly.
I have had six different cabinet builders over the course of over twenty years.
Some were so nice I could just mask them and prime them right at delivery.
Others had me knocking panels off breaking out the router or just scrapping them entirely.
Sometimes honest mistakes,factors beyond anyone’s control.
Other times clearly just trying to pan obvious mistakes off on me as if I wouldn’t notice.
Some took payment upfront and took months to deliver well past quoted times others went dark mid order and disappeared entirely.
Kirk specifically is a great guy. Very reliable,consistent and quick.
I think this was a bad batch of wood but I can’t pretend everything goes perfectly around here.
You have to fight for it very often.
Quoted from mmr61184:I am using virtuapin for my TAF heard lots of great things about him from many of the respected guys on the site. Plus I talked to him for about 2 hours felt really good coming out of the conversation. I assume that’s why his runtime is 4 months
I’ve used him in the past.
Helped take the product to another level a few years back providing samples,feedback etc but never could get a consistent flow of cabinets to meet my own volume or timing.
Not that it’s substantial but I don’t just need one cabinet every so many months I need twenty a year give or take.
He is more finish oriented which is great for people that need that. He also serves other markets so I know he is like myself in that you can only produce so much at a time.
The best builder I had was a local retired fine cabinet maker.
I would hand him the cabinet and say “I need one of these”
A few weeks later I would have exactly that every measurement and cut exact,neatly assembled.
Just unload it. Mask,prime and go.
He got too expensive once he realized the complexity of some the old Bally cabinets and eventually just aged out of the physical side entirely.
On some games a new cabinet is a luxury others a necessity so depending on how good the builder is that dictates where the choice is made.
Since we are talking about cabinets.
I am about to prep my current TZ project cabinet.
Here is where that starts. image (resized).jpg
What am I looking for?
Flipper button holes image (resized).jpg
Not deep enough image (resized).jpg
Front button holes
Too tight. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
Leg bolt holes.
Too small
image (resized).jpg
Blow outs
image (resized).jpg
Structure.
Gaps
image (resized).jpg
Brad holes. image (resized).jpg
Is it reasonably straight image (resized).jpg
That’s the lower.
image (resized).jpgQuoted from High_End_Pins:Since we are talking about cabinets.
I am about to prep my current TZ project cabinet.
Here is where that starts. [quoted image]
What am I looking for?
Flipper button holes [quoted image]
Not deep enough [quoted image]
Front button holes
Too tight. [quoted image][quoted image]
Leg bolt holes.
Too small
[quoted image]
Blow outs
[quoted image]
Structure.
Gaps
[quoted image]
Brad holes. [quoted image]
Is it reasonably straight [quoted image]
That’s the lower.
[quoted image]
These look all par for the course and beyond acceptable, as long as you get them at this stage spotted now. I do feel that without the right amount of experience, 99% of the people will get caught finding some of this stuff (aka FT hole you caught for me) out after decals are put on and then there goes your perfect cabinet and decals right out the window. It could be blocking that needs to be added or subtracted, or maybe the playfield glass doesn't slide in properly once they've already installed glass channel, double sided tape and their new brass rails ... lol
Quoted from Gman3:These look all par for the course and beyond acceptable, as long as you get them at this stage spotted now. I do feel that without the right amount of experience, 99% of the people will get caught finding some of this stuff (aka FT hole you caught for me) out after decals are put on and then there goes your perfect cabinet and decals right out the window. It could be blocking that needs to be added or subtracted, or maybe the playfield glass doesn't slide in properly once they've already installed glass channel, double sided tape and their new brass rails ... lol
Yeah. No deal breakers on this one but you really have to scrutinize everything on each and every cabinet.
Sometimes the flaw is in the file sometimes its just a mistake or something important they are not aware of.
This lower is corrected ready to refinish. The heads next.
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Now the head.
Is it straight?image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
How much work is still needed at the joints. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
How big and uniform are the gaps in the back panel?image (resized).jpg
Is it drilled and chocked properly for the application?image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
Will the glass go in and out freely. These two measurements need to be ether identical or the second slightly lower. I prefer a little lower because some glasses and channels are a little thicker(CPR with repro glass channels being the worst case scenario).
image (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpg
Does it have all the needed holes?
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgQuoted from High_End_Pins:Now the head.
Is it straight?[quoted image][quoted image]
How much work is still needed at the joints. [quoted image][quoted image]
How big and uniform are the gaps in the back panel?[quoted image]
Is it drilled and chocked properly for the application?[quoted image][quoted image]
Will the glass go in and out freely. These two measurements need to be ether identical or the second slightly lower. I prefer a little lower because some glasses and channels are a little thicker(CPR with repro glass channels being the worst case scenario).
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Does it have all the needed holes?[quoted image][quoted image]
Holy crap these give me anxiety and I am not normally that guy.
Super exclusive ad from the Pinside Marketplace!
Quoted from aamauzy:I’m sure a lot of people are now thinking “y’know, maybe I DON’T need to replace that cabinet after all…”
The other part of me also says did Bally/Williams maintain such strict tolerances. Let’s not forget these were meant to be in arcades and disposed of once they reached end of life
Quoted from mmr61184:The other part of me also says did Bally/Williams maintain such strict tolerances. Let’s not forget these were meant to be in arcades and disposed of once they reached end of life
If you ever look deep into the cabinets you can often find scrap pieces of other cabinets.
This is where they would saw up the “culls” and use those scraps to make cash box dividers,playfield runners things like that.
When you build 4000 cabinets you can do that and keep moving.
When you only build or have one it’s much more difficult and personal.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:If you ever look deep into the cabinets you can often find scrap pieces of other cabinets.
This is where they would saw up the “culls” and use those scraps to make cash box dividers,playfield runners things like that.
When you build 4000 cabinets you can do that and keep moving.
When you only build or have one it’s much more difficult and personal.
They did that for arcade games, too. Pretty wild to think that when they stopped selling a game, if they had cabs that were empty, they just reused the largest panels for coin door panels, control panels, and other smaller bits in arcade games. Crazy to see that kind of thing.
As for the panels of some of the cabinets bowing, I'd imagine it's from all the wood that gets shipped to suppliers while still very green. Wood these days seemed to be grown so fast, with the rings so far apart, and still so green that there have been times I've been at Home Depot or wherever and the wood still felt wet to the touch! If you take that stuff home and throw it in your garage in the wrong season, it'll bow up like a pool noodle.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Me either. Firewood.
I have had some with some minor issues but that’s the worst.
I really enjoy seeing all the work that goes into these restorations, I know it's a giant PAIN IN THE BALLS to most of us, but it's great to see someone who is really amazing at it, that also clearly enjoys it and takes it in stride. And those cleared playfields....oh my.
Quoted from jrcmlc:I really enjoy seeing all the work that goes into these restorations, I know it's a giant PAIN IN THE BALLS to most of us, but it's great to see someone who is really amazing at it, that also clearly enjoys it and takes it in stride. And those cleared playfields....oh my.
Totally agree, it’s awesome to see how these come together and each and everyone with their own touch
Quoted from Miguel351:They did that for arcade games, too. Pretty wild to think that when they stopped selling a game, if they had cabs that were empty, they just reused the largest panels for coin door panels, control panels, and other smaller bits in arcade games. Crazy to see that kind of thing.
As for the panels of some of the cabinets bowing, I'd imagine it's from all the wood that gets shipped to suppliers while still very green. Wood these days seemed to be grown so fast, with the rings so far apart, and still so green that there have been times I've been at Home Depot or wherever and the wood still felt wet to the touch! If you take that stuff home and throw it in your garage in the wrong season, it'll bow up like a pool noodle.
I remember I once had a Mace video game and inside the blocking was made out of TOTAN,AFM and Who Dunnit cabinet scraps.
No doubt on the wood.
This is why they often acclimate wood to rooms when doing certain projects.
No matter what the cause that cabinet is worthless
I have had luck on minor bows. Dampen,weight and sunlight. 832038D8-9229-4927-B7EC-ADA006E0D2BB (resized).jpeg
That stated I wouldn’t even know where to start with that one cabinet I pictured earlier.
Working on my CC playfield.
Woodtones first.
Tedious manual cut outs
D26FB3FC-5AF6-4136-AAD4-23069AE331F6 (resized).jpeg3CED7B0E-60DB-496F-9B5F-AF10DDEC10F6 (resized).jpegA4DA27D7-A899-47E0-A503-08A5DE1EF15F (resized).jpeg4DDA55F7-1A95-45A0-8FD9-18F55886EA37 (resized).jpegF46035F1-1801-4D90-A173-F7EFC91F8062 (resized).jpegimage (resized).jpgE4D15662-0D09-4F47-9E9F-CBD5F9960226 (resized).jpegEB1AAA70-0DDD-446A-A1DD-024A05AA425F (resized).jpeg1FD9CBF0-FCC1-4D86-8BDA-BA6DAC2CD59C (resized).jpeg9EB73159-B3E0-4987-B514-7BB7E3A04A77 (resized).jpegimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgRed orange yellow fades.
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Too many things to list.
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Almost ready to clear it again.
1CF36CBC-2297-442A-A76A-CDBF329657C8 (resized).jpeg3713FF4F-3861-4F30-B68A-557CF9348A1B (resized).jpegE7CBBD93-FEAB-4E3D-9936-2CC139E264FE (resized).jpegFE62B540-CA90-4842-8A3E-9F0E78ED54EE (resized).jpegAlways amazed by Chris' work for sure but I often wonder is all this "repainting" on a PF like this one especially with the cuts in the PF that you mentioned from the mylar that was added - worth it vs a new PF.
Of course I am aware (thanks to this thread) about how many of the replacement PFs can be as bad or worse then what you are starting with sometimes.
Still a pleasure seeing these games go from trash to treasure.
Quoted from GCS2000:Always amazed by Chris' work for sure but I often wonder is all this "repainting" on a PF like this one especially with the cuts in the PF that you mentioned from the mylar that was added - worth it vs a new PF.
Of course I am aware (thanks to this thread) about how many of the replacement PFs can be as bad or worse then what you are starting with sometimes.
Still a pleasure seeing these games go from trash to treasure.
It’s hard to say or justify sometimes.
Even harder to explain mostly situational.
A new playfield is the point of least resistance.
Even when made sometimes they go out of stock,have flaws that make them less ideal than a rework and then sometimes people really want the original redone.
I don’t have a preference if the playfield is actually restoreable within my skill set I like new just fine when practical.
In this case new playfields are likely out of stock until mid May or I pay way over the going rate for one that’s at a retailer with unknown accountability if it’s a dud.
By the time that’s sorted out I can have this one done so that’s its individual situation.
Super exclusive ad from the Pinside Marketplace!
CC playfield also.
Off to a good start there.
Most of the fades and other repaints are all set.
Still have to cleanly reborder the mine hole and do some minor reworks but the overall face lift and repairs are done.
I save the detail work for the final application because that usually involves dragging a razor blade across other repaints.
Not smart unless protected(cleared).
4B23FC78-DD2D-4A38-9BF0-76425F9087BD (resized).jpegB3A81094-71E5-49E0-97FC-5313005782B7 (resized).jpegBE05E066-CC72-45EE-AE12-3CA132E9479F (resized).jpeg1D71723B-879E-423F-BB01-A52F66D340F8 (resized).jpeg3795FCC8-0C7B-4CEA-BC3F-08DC5F0DF3C0 (resized).jpeg5E871B16-904A-4608-95A9-D1B359436E63 (resized).jpeg8FC951DA-DCD2-474C-B56B-BAB8DE28474A (resized).jpegE0A33E1E-A432-4A94-B492-05C50538C415 (resized).jpegC83B6539-58C0-48A1-A663-653CE6975ACC (resized).jpegA2B53554-2190-4B21-9547-5D07E468141E (resized).jpeg958C6B60-EB73-4495-8E95-9B2391A7D796 (resized).jpeg5D67E6D7-0CA9-4684-8C47-794FBF9D6458 (resized).jpeg4C60DCE3-6BA6-4EB0-AF82-6FD73DF20180 (resized).jpegB4CFD210-8AD4-4CF7-80C2-38ED14EFC0EB (resized).jpeg7798FD9C-FD9C-45B8-8CB2-EF244C3703A9 (resized).jpegBE329FC7-BEAA-4218-B6AB-4236EF79574E (resized).jpeg797790CF-4A0C-479D-8199-8BC3D7D68FCE (resized).jpeg9DC3B099-FE1D-46B5-9100-31687086BF0A (resized).jpeg1DD1A7F2-BACE-46CE-A825-9495A1F9FA5F (resized).jpeg91CA140E-6B70-4161-8212-ACD10C2D2017 (resized).jpegB0E5389B-18DC-4840-A22B-007DC98BD997 (resized).jpeg941CE6D2-CAF4-49D2-9897-A259FEA95732 (resized).jpeg651AF38A-7286-4D48-8D7C-CB4338AD61DB (resized).jpegQuoted from High_End_Pins:Cleared another lot of playfields.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
someone asking you a favor on getting PF CC? I doubt there will be an Ice Fever HEP out there right? 
I am not even sure which game is that soccer one...?
Quoted from High_End_Pins:It’s hard to say or justify sometimes.
Even harder to explain mostly situational.
A new playfield is the point of least resistance.
Even when made sometimes they go out of stock,have flaws that make them less ideal than a rework and then sometimes people really want the original redone.
I don’t have a preference if the playfield is actually restoreable within my skill set I like new just fine when practical.
In this case new playfields are likely out of stock until mid May or I pay way over the going rate for one that’s at a retailer with unknown accountability if it’s a dud.
By the time that’s sorted out I can have this one done so that’s its individual situation.
Yep makes sense. Only you know the time it all takes and your skill set - mine would be how much will it cost me for someone to do this as I don't have those skills.
Appreciate the explanation.
BTW I have always wondered what is the game you have redone that you said WTF why is someone spending all this money to restore _____________? Just curious. I mean get rare games like Krull, KK, Airborne etc and then legends like MM, AFM, TAF, MB, CC and so on but has someone come along and said I want Chris Hutchins restored Popeye?
Quoted from GCS2000:Yep makes sense. Only you know the time it all takes and your skill set - mine would be how much will it cost me for someone to do this as I don't have those skills.
Appreciate the explanation.
BTW I have always wondered what is the game you have redone that you said WTF why is someone spending all this money to restore ____________? Just curious. I mean get rare games like Krull, KK, Airborne etc and then legends like MM, AFM, TAF, MB, CC and so on but has someone come along and said I want Chris Hutchins restored Popeye?
I really look at all these games about the same the titles don’t mean much to me because it’s pretty much the same process on the same subject matter.
What makes one more “worthy” than another is solely based on what the overall hobby dictates are the best ones but I am still straightening wooden boxes,painting,clearing wiring rebuilding mechs etc.
The pictures, shapes bells and whistles don’t factor in too much beyond that.
The game I was most resistant to restore was this woodrail. I knew it would cost a lot more than normal and would have far less value in the hobby but not to the person that owned it.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hep-this-week-9-17-18/page/140#post-5662167
Are the Gottliebs getting the full game treatment or playfield only? Not too many of those I have seen get your level of detail.
Quoted from DudeRegular:Are the Gottliebs getting the full game treatment or playfield only? Not too many of those I have seen get your level of detail.
Just playfields for a local friend.
I do have another Spirit and a Stargate coming up though.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:I really look at all these games about the same the titles don’t mean much to me because it’s pretty much the same process on the same subject matter.
What makes one more “worthy” than another is solely based on what the overall hobby dictates are the best ones but I am still straightening wooden boxes,painting,clearing wiring rebuilding mechs etc.
The pictures, shapes bells and whistles don’t factor in too much beyond that.
The game I was most resistant to restore was this woodrail. I knew it would cost a lot more than normal and would have far less value in the hobby but not to the person that owned it.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hep-this-week-9-17-18/page/140#post-5662167
I remember that one. And yes I agree if you have the money and the game means a lot to you then do it.
For us it would be a Silverball Mania fully decked to keep forever (if we had space and $$) as it was the first game we ever owned. Lots of memories for us.
Playfield process videos for CC.
Pretty thorough in terms of dealing with gradient style playfields. Much more detailed than pictures.
Cactus Canyon Refresh 4
Cactus Canyon Refresh 5
Cactus Canyon Refresh 6
Leduc, AB
Quoted from High_End_Pins:The game I was most resistant to restore was this woodrail. I knew it would cost a lot more than normal
I remember this game as well… it’s nice to see you do these one-offs.
Quoted from GCS2000:I have always wondered what is the game you have redone that you said WTF why is someone spending all this money to restore
I come across the same thing and I find it’s usually a sentimental value to the customer and I understand it cause you get to hear the story behind why they want to do it.
TOM (MM) playfield is being assembled.
8B6EE9A7-9615-4AC7-8532-95F1C0223AE4 (resized).jpeg8D38AF1B-B084-44B7-8575-21666A59F5B7 (resized).jpeg06FD1DE6-790E-4F3A-B23F-E3CC2F1899EB (resized).jpeg0E4080C3-9B63-4C11-A7A7-9B770C56FE1B (resized).jpeg51F11424-D205-4654-B39A-1D517D6B71C2 (resized).jpegE415786D-66B6-48A9-ADFB-BC5997FD5252 (resized).jpegHi Chris,
I'm a big fan of your work, and I especially appreciate all of the time and effort you clearly put into your explanatory videos on YouTube and your posts on this forum. Doing so must take up a great deal of time, but we all will continue to benefit from the detailed record you've left us for many years to come. So thanks very much for all you do!
Question for you: in late-90s Bally/Williams games, do you know what the justification was for using wire striped with a horizontal-colored "ring" vs a more vertical "spiral" stripe? Was there a particular rationale that Bally/Williams used consistently that would explain the different striped patterns used on wire? Also, are you able to share a vendor that produces and sells the more rare "ring" or vertical striped colored wire? I've searched high and low, but find this particular striped pattern to be extremely difficult to find. Pinballspareparts in Australia offers a limited selection of ring-striped wire, but there are many color combinations missing.
Thanks again!!
Quoted from runofkings:Hi Chris,
I'm a big fan of your work, and I especially appreciate all of the time and effort you clearly put into your explanatory videos on YouTube and your posts on this forum. Doing so must take up a great deal of time, but we all will continue to benefit from the detailed record you've left us for many years to come. So thanks very much for all you do!
Question for you: in late-90s Bally/Williams games, do you know what the justification was for using wire striped with a horizontal-colored "ring" vs a more vertical "spiral" stripe? Was there a particular rationale that Bally/Williams used consistently that would explain the different striped patterns used on wire? Also, are you able to share a vendor that produces and sells the more rare "ring" or vertical striped colored wire? I've searched high and low, but find this particular striped pattern to be extremely difficult to find. Pinballspareparts in Australia offers a limited selection of ring-striped wire, but there are many color combinations missing.
Thanks again!!
Thanks.
The wire marking styles are hard to figure out.
When ordering custom made wire they give options.
I use the barber pole option it might be called something else by others.
That is the twirling stripe that most frequently matches the factory wire.
There are also wires mixed within the factory harness at times that have what look like dashes or rings.
I usually see that where they are chaining things together along the course of the playfield pretty much never starting at the origin at the board connectors.
Other places used are sub assemblies
Older SS Bally games sometimes have the dash/ring there.
Why?
That could be to help identify it as a jumper at a glance or be as simple as that’s just what they had on hand at the moment would be my educated guess.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Thanks.
The wire marking styles are hard to figure out.
When ordering custom made wire they give options.
I use the barber pole option it might be called something else by others.
That is the twirling stripe that most frequently matches the factory wire.
There are also wires mixed within the factory harness at times that have what look like dashes or rings.
I usually see that where they are chaining things together along the course of the playfield pretty much never starting at the origin at the board connectors.
Other places used are sub assemblies
Older SS Bally games sometimes have the dash/ring there.
Why?
That could be to help identify it as a jumper at a glance or be as simple as that’s just what they had on hand at the moment would be my educated guess.
I have not seen the one with the dashes anywhere I think most of the places sell the barber pole style. Is the only option for that custom custom? I find a lot of the early 90s games use the dash style on the various smaller wire harnesses unless I am mistaken. I know my TAF vault and ramp harnesses that need to be replace are the dash style
In building and rebuilding 2 different 1992 Bally Dr Who's, I have come to the conclusion that they did the "whatever was on hand in the right color combination". Mostly the harness of both were barber pole stripe. Then on the Playfield daisy chains, it was a mixture of stripes and bands. This confused me. But was told that as long as the base color and the stripe or band was correct, then it was correct. Strange how two supposedly similar harnesses were built different.
TOM cabinet stripped straightened,primed and paint.
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Had a new cabinet for it but it was a dud. Bowed 1/4 in each side.
1BB25E83-3E8B-4401-93FB-79DD6B054C1C (resized).jpegFAD814F4-9641-4107-9E23-F6D03C41B073 (resized).jpeg36373802-DDDA-4DB2-8AD4-9AC616D1DEC7 (resized).jpegQuoted from runofkings:in late-90s Bally/Williams games, do you know what the justification was for using wire striped with a horizontal-colored "ring" vs a more vertical "spiral" stripe? Was there a particular rationale that Bally/Williams used consistently that would explain the different striped patterns used on wire?
Quoted from Tophervette:I have come to the conclusion that they did the "whatever was on hand in the right color combination".
^^^^^ THIS.
Sometimes, the Williams factory even used a different base color in their wiring. The stripe or trace color is always the correct color. I have seen System 11 machines (Black Knight 2000 if I recall correctly) where (I think) a blue base color was substituted with white. It could have been the blue has faded but I don't think this was the case. It confused the heck out of me when tracing the wires but looking at the origin of the wires (board connector), I realized what the Williams factory did.
The same thing can be seen in the circuit boards. These were outsourced and the board manufacturing factory used whatever brand IC they had on hand.
Quoted from Tophervette:But was told that as long as the base color and the stripe or band was correct, then it was correct. Strange how two supposedly similar harnesses were built different.
This is correct. The only thing that matters is the base color and the stripe/trace color matches.
Note that in later WPC-95 machines (Medieval Madness and later), the Williams factory switched from using GRY-YEL in the switch matrix to GRN-WHT. I assume this was to remove confusion with GRN-YEL used as ground (Earth in Europe parlance).
Quoted from High_End_Pins:If you ever look deep into the cabinets you can often find scrap pieces of other cabinets.
This is where they would saw up the “culls” and use those scraps to make cash box dividers,playfield runners things like that.
When you build 4000 cabinets you can do that and keep moving.
When you only build or have one it’s much more difficult and personal.
I figured that had to be pretty common. Here’s the inside of my STTNG. Oscar
9409B458-C54C-4445-87E2-2D74C1ABACB4 (resized).jpegPromoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
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