Quoted from splickety_lit:I'm building one of these soon. Do you make the wiring harness yourself?
Do you also put molex connectors on all the coils?
Quoted from splickety_lit:I'm building one of these soon. Do you make the wiring harness yourself?
Do you also put molex connectors on all the coils?
yes, chris adds molex connectors to the coils for serviceability. go back and read the thread. it's a short read.
Quoted from j_m_:yes, chris adds molex connectors to the coils for serviceability. go back and read the thread. it's a short read.
Hahahah I thought so. I did some searching lot of controversy on the topic arris’s pinside
Quoted from mmr61184:Hahahah I thought so. I did some searching lot of controversy on the topic arris’s pinside
My background is in electronic design and assembly and the rule of thumb is pretty much the fewer connections the better. This is for both cost and reliability reasons.
That being said, I normally put drop target backs on connectors for ease of service. My opinion is that doing every coil would be overkill unless the solder lugs on the coil were really hard to get at.
I put most assemblies and coils on plugs with insulation.
My reasons for doing it are to be able to neatly map out my wiring harnesses and to easily swap and or service anything that pops up along the way be it here or at the owners home.
A drip of solder in the wrong spot will cause more headaches than a failed connector.
People can debate it but it works perfectly for me.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:I put most assemblies and coils on plugs with insulation.
My reasons for doing it are to be able to neatly map out my wiring harnesses and to easily swap and or service anything that pops up along the way be it here or at the owners home.
A drip of solder in the wrong spot will cause more headaches than a failed connector.
People can debate it but it works perfectly for me.
Bottom line is connectors cost money and companies making a product want to keep production cost as cheap as possible. So argue it all you want but the reason most companies don't use more connectors is because of cost and nothing else. Connectors can fail but it just doesn't happen all that often so I agree with Chris on this 100%.
It would be different if we were talking about the underside of a vehicle or a boat but HEP pins are not going to be exposed to the weather which is what causes most connectors to fail. No one spending $10,000 to $20,000 on a pinball machine is going to leave it somewhere that connectors would get moisture into them, salt air into them, etc.
Also if you are spending the money it cost to have Chris do a machine for you I am sure if you do have an issue with that machine you want to be able to fix it as easy as possible and adding connectors makes a huge difference in how long you are "under the hood" for repairs.
Keep up the great work Chris!
Quoted from too-many-pins:Bottom line is connectors cost money and companies making a product want to keep production cost as cheap as possible. So argue it all you want but the reason most companies don't use more connectors is because of cost and nothing else. Connectors can fail but it just doesn't happen all that often so I agree with Chris on this 100%.
It would be different if we were talking about the underside of a vehicle or a boat but HEP pins are not going to be exposed to the weather which is what causes most connectors to fail. No one spending $10,000 to $20,000 on a pinball machine is going to leave it somewhere that connectors would get moisture into them, salt air into them, etc.
Also if you are spending the money it cost to have Chris do a machine for you I am sure if you do have an issue with that machine you want to be able to fix it as easy as possible and adding connectors makes a huge difference in how long you are "under the hood" for repairs.
Keep up the great work Chris!
I know Chris’s restorations are the benchmark that most if not all are measured against, and like almost anything on this site your going to get polarizing opinions no matter who weighs in and I am sure there are reasons to do things both ways. I was thinking about doing the same for my game while I got the whole thing apart.
I have been using these posts and pictures as a benchmark/example of what to do for both of the rebuilds I have done these past 2 years. I am not rushed as it is my own project. I added Molex/Trifurcons to my rebuilds as well. I even numbered them (from numbers in the manual). It made it easier to fix problems recently, when I had the wire harness for 2 pop bumpers and 2 Flipper leaf switches hooked to the next door mech. I appreciate the details Chris provides in his posts and pictures.
From Another Chris.
Quoted from Tophervette:I have been using these posts and pictures as a benchmark/example of what to do for both of the rebuilds I have done these past 2 years. I am not rushed as it is my own project. I added Molex/Trifurcons to my rebuilds as well. I even numbered them (from numbers in the manual). It made it easier to fix problems recently, when I had the wire harness for 2 pop bumpers and 2 Flipper leaf switches hooked to the next door mech. I appreciate the details Chris provides in his posts and pictures.
From Another Chris.
[quoted image]
Looks good.
There is nothing worse than having to sort things out in the cabinet.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Looks good.
There is nothing worse than having to sort things out in the cabinet.
If I ever do another, I have learned to power up on the PinDOC before the PF goes in the cabinet. I was naive thinking micro switches were bent right, right out of the bag. I did trace out every wire in the used wiring harness while I was changing out the IDC connectors to Molex. I made a list of connectors and the colored wires and where they went, using both the manual, switch matrix, and a working game. I still got confused on a few wires as the colored dots or stripes on the old wires were vague. Brown, red and violet were always guesses. Stretching down into the cabinet to address issues with the pop bumpers at the bottom of Doctor Who was the worst. At least I got the spoons adjusted right, the first time out.
Chris in Bowie, MD.
These are ready to pack and ship.
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AFM RU
Great work as usual! Just curious. Why don't you use a cabinet blade protector when lifting the playfield to avoid scratches to the cabinet? I have a set and love them especially for protecting my mirror blades
Quoted from Piso:Great work as usual! Just curious. Why don't you use a cabinet blade protector when lifting the playfield to avoid scratches to the cabinet? I have a set and love them especially for protecting my mirror blades
Thanks.
The protectors are good in some instances but I am lifting and lowering multiple playfields multiple times so it’s not practical for me.
I use a finish that allows me to polish any scuffs right off at anytime.
They are not scratched though it’s a big difference you would see wood if so.
What you might see occasionally is some residue from compound on the edge of the playfield or a slight friction mark.
Taking all these pictures and staging the games up is time sensitive so I can’t run around and get every fingerprint ,dust or scuff off before each and every picture during the process though I try.
Quoted from number_runner:Thanks for the Chrome job. It looks better than I could have imagined!
Glad to hear it. I was worried it might not be enough but equally worried about doing too much.Has a good balance.
Quoted from aamauzy:Can't quite put my finger on it, but something ain't right about that CC cabinet.... Almost like something is missing.
Are you sure?
Quoted from v8torino:) Still has the Right Flipper Button, Please explain more !!
Cactus Canyon Refresh 1
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Cactus Canyon Refresh 1
"You can just whine about it or get to work." Motto I live by almost daily.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:"You can just whine about it or get to work." Motto I live by almost daily.
Book i was reading last week said it very well.
'It's better to do it, than to live with the fear of it.'
One of the better maxim's for us guys who live by rules and honour.
Quoted from punkin:Book i was reading last week said it very well.
'It's better to do it, than to live with the fear of it.'
Theodore Geisel was a brilliant writer. So incisive.
You can just whine about it or get to work.</
Totally get this and glad I learned at an early age. Very frustrating when I give someone a job at x amount of dollars and they complain and walk away and sit at home for the day and miss out on 4-$600 for the day then complain they are not making any money.
Quoted from PinMonk:Theodore Geisel was a brilliant writer. So incisive.
The book is not here any more so can't check.
It was a science fantasy rather than fiction...
Ahhh i know what series it was and it wasn't that guy. Had Bethod the king of the Northerns, and the guy i was quoting was the Bloody Nine's (sounds like Kill Bill) fathers advice.
Looked it up, Joe Abercrombie.
Quoted from punkin:Book i was reading last week said it very well.
'It's better to do it, than to live with the fear of it.'
One of the better maxim's for us guys who live by rules and honour.
Before I went out on my own to do technology consulting, I had a steadfast rule for all of my employees that my office was a no BMW zone (b!tch, moan, and whine). I have no patience for complaining as it accomplishes nothing and kills productivity. I didn't mind if employees came to me with legitimate problems, but depending on the situation my first question back to them was always "Have you talked to the person about this issue?", "What are you going to do about it?", or "How can I help you solve the problem or meet the challenge?".
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Before I went out on my own to do technology consulting, I had a steadfast rule for all of my employees that my office was a no BMW zone (b!tch, moan, and whine). I have no patience for complaining as it accomplishes nothing and kills productivity. I didn't mind if employees came to me with legitimate problems, but depending on the situation my first question back to them was always "Have you talked to the person about this issue?", "What are you going to do about it?", or "How can I help you solve the problem or meet the challenge?".
Dunno what that's about, but everyone I know can quote my golden rule when asked.
No dramas.
OnlyOneRuleInMyHousePunkin
question on the AFM; which decals you use?
They look fabulous.
I’ve purchased mr pinball decals, licensed next gen and cgc decals for comparison and I’ll make a thread about this soon so people can choose what they like. They are all nice but have some differences in gloss and colour/resolution.
Maybe there are more suppliers?
Quoted from Faust:question on the AFM; which decals you use?
They look fabulous.
I’ve purchased mr pinball decals, licensed next gen and cgc decals for comparison and I’ll make a thread about this soon so people can choose what they like. They are all nice but have some differences in gloss and colour/resolution.
Maybe there are more suppliers?
I had both of these sets in my stock.
One was screen printed Phoenix Arcades(black game)
The other was PPS from back when they were running their own art department not outsourcing.
Both versions I used were nice and had their own highlights.
Neither are available any longer I believe.
MR Pinball usually has the most consistent and vibrant prints in terms of the next generation process.
I generally go with those when they have what I need and I have the time to wait for transit.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:I had both of these sets in my stock.
One was screen printed Phoenix Arcades(black game)
The other was PPS from back when they were running their own art department not outsourcing.
Both versions I used were nice and had their own highlights.
Neither are available any longer I believe.
MR Pinball usually has the most consistent and vibrant prints in terms of the next generation process.
I generally go with those when they have what I need and I have the time to wait for transit.
Do you have a preferred supplier for TOM decals I would like to replace mine on my cabinet soon.
Quoted from mmr61184:Do you have a preferred supplier for TOM decals I would like to replace mine on my cabinet soon.
Just saw these ones.
https://www.flylanddesigns.com/product-category/pinball-and-arcade-artwork/
Look very interesting. I have not yet seen them in person or know anything about the seller
Quoted from mmr61184:Do you have a preferred supplier for TOM decals I would like to replace mine on my cabinet soon.
I am working on a TOM now.
My honest preference is to save the original art if possible if not Mr Pinball AU.
The art on TOM in particular is very well applied from the factory it is different than many other games of the era.
There is a texture and bonding about it that is really ideal.
That said some are just beat and you have to do it.
Quoted from GCS2000:not sure if I should say congrats or sorry ...
Probably a little of both. I was looking forward to an easy job but at the same time I will feel better about it if it gets done in typical HEP fashion.
Made the initial structural repairs and cleared it so I can start repaints soon.
hate to state the obvious... why are we repairing this Cactus cab and not just calling Kirk ?
Bless your heart ! lol
Quoted from Gman3:hate to state the obvious... why are we repairing this Cactus cab and not just calling Kirk ?
Bless your heart ! lol
Timing,budget and bows.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Timing,budget and bows.
[quoted image][quoted image]
never seen one bow like that before .... ugh
Quoted from Gman3:never seen one bow like that before .... ugh
Me either. Firewood.
I have had some with some minor issues but that’s the worst.
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