(Topic ID: 225528)

HEP This Week

By High_End_Pins

5 years ago


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Topic Stats

  • 14,493 posts
  • 646 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 27 minutes ago by aamauzy
  • Topic is favorited by 640 Pinsiders
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Topic poll

“EBD Trim legs will be black regardless ”

  • Stainless/Factory 35 votes
    31%
  • Blacked out 54 votes
    48%
  • Painted Gold matched to cabinet 24 votes
    21%

(113 votes)

This poll has been closed.

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There are 14,493 posts in this topic. You are on page 22 of 290.
#1051 5 years ago
Quoted from cosmokramer:

How much time total was spent on stenciling the head, not including priming?
Looks great...we appreciated you taking the time to not only document the process, but to answer our questions as well

I don’t track my time too well but I do get a sense when something is taking much more time and effort than the normal process.
Just going on the fact that I started painting it a week ago and have put time into it daily since then I am going to guess thirty hours so far.
There is a lot more to it like mixing paint,cleaning guns,masking the cabinet overall,manual cut outs ,clearing,sanding
The reality of that is that I will still sand and clear it once more,there is internal blocking to place and only by THEN should be ready to actually use.

#1052 5 years ago

I bet Chris could paint a backglass from scratch.

#1053 5 years ago
Quoted from chad:

I bet Chris could paint a backglass from scratch.

I hope I never have to try that.
Imagine all the revisions

#1054 5 years ago

So back to the TAF
It is really time consuming on the wiring side.
With all the sockets being replaced and the need in my mind to eliminate all the generic daisy chains it is best just to make an all new GI wire run.
There are two strands on TAF
Violet and brown meaning 4 wires
AC05B1F4-DA1C-4C78-801F-138037CFE656 (resized).jpegAC05B1F4-DA1C-4C78-801F-138037CFE656 (resized).jpeg

It will take a lot of wire to do it A2B3B54D-94B8-4AF4-8C33-3C4411DEE772 (resized).jpegA2B3B54D-94B8-4AF4-8C33-3C4411DEE772 (resized).jpeg

#1055 5 years ago

Since it is a new full run I will use 18 gauge

I can’t thread that gauge through the holes and I don’t like breaking the strands so I strip openings in the insulation as I go then wrap the socket legs. 6F056AD8-D1C3-4B77-B82E-07665BFC18DE (resized).jpeg6F056AD8-D1C3-4B77-B82E-07665BFC18DE (resized).jpeg
2227C42C-6ADD-4AAB-B3F8-90F8A146CDBA (resized).jpeg2227C42C-6ADD-4AAB-B3F8-90F8A146CDBA (resized).jpeg

#1056 5 years ago

As it runs I remove the factory run and fish my own in. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
During this time I also secure and rework the feature lamp wiring with only color correct wire.

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#1057 5 years ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

I hope I never have to try that.
Imagine all the revisions

I have one for you if you want to try

#1058 5 years ago

EBD cabinet dried overnight and I can place the head on the lower and get a better sense of how it is all going to mesh together. A1F8E7C7-0385-42FD-A979-64C419A3CB90 (resized).jpegA1F8E7C7-0385-42FD-A979-64C419A3CB90 (resized).jpeg
51955214-DCF5-479E-A5DB-3B4F22C0ED72 (resized).jpeg51955214-DCF5-479E-A5DB-3B4F22C0ED72 (resized).jpeg

Looks good. Check the glass to make double sure there are no conflicts with the art within reason.
D3FA7EC5-0D63-4641-AC74-9132DC199E52 (resized).jpegD3FA7EC5-0D63-4641-AC74-9132DC199E52 (resized).jpeg

Happy with that.
Next step for it will be the final sand and matte clear application. Probably going to go about eighty percent gloss level on this one so it will have a nice sheen but not overwhelming.
I will let it set one more day first so the clear can really settle in around the paint lines before I sand it flat.

#1059 5 years ago

TAF playfield Build continues.
This is probably my most involved TAF playfield rewire to date.
Just haven’t had one need this much extra attention but it wasn’t the wiring itself that made it need so much more rewiring it was the metal condition and corrosion that created this extra need.

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
The GI wiring is done and most of the feature lamps are as well.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

This is a good example of the difference in the thin short generic factory run and my new run.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

I have not terminated the end yet I will when I get to the connectors in the head but I left plenty of wire to do so. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

#1060 5 years ago

TAF needs a new opto board just based on appearance. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

The replacement does not have brackets.

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

#1061 5 years ago

New opto board has brackets now C6790891-D986-4943-B116-7713E04EB7DD (resized).jpegC6790891-D986-4943-B116-7713E04EB7DD (resized).jpeg

Installed.

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#1062 5 years ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

EBD cabinet dried overnight and I can place the head on the lower and get a better sense of how it is all going to mesh together. [quoted image]
[quoted image]
Looks good. Check the glass to make double sure there are no conflicts with the art within reason.
[quoted image]
Happy with that.
Next step for it will be the final sand and matte clear application. Probably going to go about eighty percent gloss level on this one so it will have a nice sheen but not overwhelming.
I will let it set one more day first so the clear can really settle in around the paint lines before I sand it flat.

That cabinet looks AWESOME Chris! Wish mine was done up like that

#1063 5 years ago

Where did you get the transparent pop bumper bodies? I know www.pinball.center/en has them, but it doesn't look like they ship to the USA.

Edit: Think I found it: http://pinball-mods.com/oscom/game-specific-products-star-trek-the-next-generation-pop-bumper-body-p-42.html?utm_source=pinside&utm_medium=link&utm_campaign=BumpBody&utm_content=p42

#1064 5 years ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

Next step for it will be the final sand and matte clear application. Probably going to go about eighty percent gloss level on this one so it will have a nice sheen but not overwhelming.
I will let it set one more day first so the clear can really settle in around the paint lines before I sand it flat.

I'm watching this step closely, having just completed my first matte clear application project with my Future Spa. I'm happy with my results (I went with about 65-75% gloss level) but it's this "settle in around the paint lines before I sand it flat" I'm curious about.

In the end, my work didn't end up flat, as some paint was a nightmare of thickness, and the edges don't bother me. However, I did give it a try, and would spray normal gloss clear over it, let it set for about three days, then sand it as flat as I could before there was too much cutting through to the color. I'd then color correct, and finally hit it with matte. It was surprising how the gloss clear seemed to be super thin over the higher areas, making it less of a simple process to get smooth (and that's three coats of clear). My son credits this to not enough sanding immediately after the initial application of the thick paint, he's probably right.

#1065 5 years ago

Dupe.

#1066 5 years ago
Quoted from brenna98:

Where did you get the transparent pop bumper bodies? I know www.pinball.center/en has them, but it doesn't look like they ship to the USA.
Edit: Think I found it: http://pinball-mods.com/oscom/game-specific-products-star-trek-the-next-generation-pop-bumper-body-p-42.html?utm_source=pinside&utm_medium=link&utm_campaign=BumpBody&utm_content=p42

Yes, Zitt imports them from pinball center

#1067 5 years ago

Placing the final coil assemblies and wiring in the TAF underside.

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#1068 5 years ago

It is getting neater as I can zip tie and route the final wiring.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

All the wedge style flasher sockets are trashed.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

I plan on using the factory correct style on the power inserts but went with the bayonet style for the large flasher insert in the graveyard area.
This is a tougher area to swap bulbs in surrounded by the the jet bumpers and I find these easier to remove and reinstall there. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

#1069 5 years ago

Will you be adding fuses to the magnets?

#1070 5 years ago
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:

Will you be adding fuses to the magnets?

Yes I will.

#1071 5 years ago

I really like the new weebly replacement magnet board (https://nvram.weebly.com/new-pcbs.html) with the mini fuses.
Its a better design and It's slick.

#1072 5 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I really like the new weebly replacement magnet board (https://nvram.weebly.com/new-pcbs.html) with the mini fuses.
Its a better design and It's slick.

Thanks for the link. I am definitely going to need one for my next TAF project.

#1073 5 years ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

Thanks for the link. I am definitely going to need one for my next TAF project.

Yeah, I would throw away any of the original magnet boards at this time and just get the new one.

#1074 5 years ago

Mid day workout and break are complete.

Today was skier and kettlebell intervals.
If anyone that follows this thread is into fitness or would like to get started the Concept 2 products are excellent. They re reasonably priced and they take very little space. You can work 80 % to 85% of your body with the skier or rower it can be as easy or hard as you would like to make it. It is all about movement and low impact.
Most programs have work time or distance and a rest time. I use the rest time to do other exercises if doing cardio or scale the intensity back and use it as a light warm up or cool down prior to or after lifting.
9C2914CC-FAC1-4C6D-B78F-1D106778EBC6 (resized).jpeg9C2914CC-FAC1-4C6D-B78F-1D106778EBC6 (resized).jpeg
AB77214A-1C14-469A-BF4D-DA637A42A0EF (resized).jpegAB77214A-1C14-469A-BF4D-DA637A42A0EF (resized).jpeg
432012AA-0B01-4270-820A-BD5ADBB7595C (resized).jpeg432012AA-0B01-4270-820A-BD5ADBB7595C (resized).jpeg

Still working on the King salmon

DE341514-C23F-42D0-AAC1-90A65AA7FD70 (resized).jpegDE341514-C23F-42D0-AAC1-90A65AA7FD70 (resized).jpeg

That is the health and diet update portion today or this week. It rarely changes honestly.

#1075 5 years ago

Now the TAF magnet fusing.
I replace the single holder with a four block. D88A6D53-C411-4F69-9853-998B6428F371 (resized).jpegD88A6D53-C411-4F69-9853-998B6428F371 (resized).jpeg
3F45788F-76AC-4C77-9483-F46D88A76DC5 (resized).jpeg3F45788F-76AC-4C77-9483-F46D88A76DC5 (resized).jpeg

Then wire it color correct using the block as a break in the individual magnet lines.

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

#1076 5 years ago

TAF playfield wiring is complete.
This rivaled doing a Bally solid state game in terms of soldering time.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

Roughly zip tied for now until the final assembly is done.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

Wires are just out of Mavericks reach. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

Let’s toast.

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#1077 5 years ago

While working on the playfields I noticed that you don't use a rotisserie. Is there a reason for that or did I misimpreted the pictures you posted?

#1078 5 years ago
Quoted from Stokoloog:

While working on the playfields I noticed that you don't use a rotisserie. Is there a reason for that or did I misimpreted the pictures you posted?

I use windshield cradles.
If you are just doing this occasionally or one at a time a rotisserie is ok but I much prefer the versatility of windshield cradles

Holds the playfield image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

Throw a nice thick piece of plywood on it and you have an instant extra workbench. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

When you are done with it image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

Put it up
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

#1079 5 years ago

Use it in the paint shop when clearing playfields image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

This repurposed bike holder will hold three of the cradles.

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#1080 5 years ago

I am going to decal the apron.

I previously sanded repaired repainted and cleared it.

There is a possibility that new aprons will be available and that would be most ideal but until then we will go this route.
01037CA2-DF2F-4823-89DA-5063BFED0229 (resized).jpeg01037CA2-DF2F-4823-89DA-5063BFED0229 (resized).jpeg

New decals are applied. There are a variety of these out there. This version is very close in color and look nice overall.
Don’t ask what version because I don’t know anything other than they are not the ones on EBay
Decal as applied to the apron and were not needed for the shooter cover.

If I wanted to I could clear over these and sand and clear to really seal them in.
The problem with that is it can be a disaster as well if the decals don’t react well to the clear and it would be worth the risk if there were no alternatives on the horizon. If I were going to do that I would have started the process earlier as it can be time consuming.

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#1081 5 years ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

Use it in the paint shop when clearing playfields [quoted image]
This repurposed bike holder will hold three of the cradles.
[quoted image]

I've always wondered. A rotisserie makes things so much simpler but I get you have a process.

So...you populate the first layer on the topside, flip it over, populate the majority of the underside, then place it in the game to finish the rest of the topside?

#1082 5 years ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

I've always wondered. A rotisserie makes things so much simpler but I get you have a process.
So...you populate the first layer on the topside, flip it over, populate the majority of the underside, then place it in the game to finish the rest of the topside?

hey! aren't you retired old man?

#1083 5 years ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

I've always wondered. A rotisserie makes things so much simpler but I get you have a process.
So...you populate the first layer on the topside, flip it over, populate the majority of the underside, then place it in the game to finish the rest of the topside?

It depends on the game as far as the assembly order.
I can do it either way mostly built and finished in the game or built entirely and drop it in.
What I do is based on an entire operation and space so it is better and simpler for me as a whole.

#1084 5 years ago
Quoted from j_m_:

hey! aren't you retired old man?

I thought I was. I recently picked up a HH from a friend. I need to swap playfields for him. I'll be using a rotisserie.

#1085 5 years ago

TAF cabinet wiring is complete.

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

TAF uses a low profile set block for the prop rod because of clearance issues with the thing box
I make a slimmer prop holder to avoid the problem as well

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#1086 5 years ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

I thought I was. I recently picked up a HH from a friend. I need to swap playfields for him. I'll be using a rotisserie.

yeah, I couldn't see trying to handle that HH playfield without one. that thing is a beast, especially when completely assembled. 3 floors of fun? more like 3 floors of weight, weight and some more weight!

#1087 5 years ago

Even though I may never own a HEP, I love knowing that so many examples of worn out (or worse, in this case) games have been converted into showpieces. It's like if someone went through a city and converted every derelict house into a mansion.

#1088 5 years ago

Any idea when you might start work on that STTNG you just sold? Can't wait to see it here!

#1089 5 years ago

Looking good Chris. Where do you buy these guys?

BCFC3599-D11D-4F65-8499-74ABC784A3F2 (resized).jpegBCFC3599-D11D-4F65-8499-74ABC784A3F2 (resized).jpeg
#1090 5 years ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

TAF cabinet wiring is complete.

That looks nice and clean.... really digging the black wire clamps.

#1091 5 years ago

Had to run to the metal fabrication and powdercoater.
Had some metal panels made for my Bally SS projects.
Just the large rear panel not the sides because we are using a thicker material more similar to the later panels used on newer games.That material does not bend like the tin foil material orginally used it also does not drill or staple so they punched the holes for me.

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

I had five made just to try it out because I have a EBD LE conversion and a Centaur 2 conversion and neither would have panels to reuse.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

They also had a couple final pieces for the TAF

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

#1092 5 years ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

Just the large rear panel not the sides because we are using a thicker material more similar to the later panels used on newer games.That material does not bend like the tin foil material orginally used it also does drill or staple so they punched the holes for me.

Is that galvanized steel panels? Sorta like duct work?

#1093 5 years ago
Quoted from RandomTask:

Is that galvanized steel panels? Sorta like duct work?

It is aluminum.
I chose that because it is conductive since these are just grounding panels really but non magnetic like the original tin.

#1094 5 years ago
Quoted from pzy:

Any idea when you might start work on that STTNG you just sold? Can't wait to see it here!

Should start that one around February.
New owner lives in snow country and doesn’t want to deal with moving it in until spring.

#1095 5 years ago
Quoted from Cserold:

Looking good Chris. Where do you buy these guys?[quoted image]

Home Depot I think.
You can probably order them in bulk somewhere which is my next plan as I started using them more and more on my black cabinet games.
First time using only black screws in them as well this time around.

#1096 5 years ago

Rotisserie

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#1097 5 years ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

TAF playfield wiring is complete.
This rivaled doing a Bally solid state game in terms of soldering time.
[quoted image]
Roughly zip tied for now until the final assembly is done.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Wires are just out of Mavericks reach. [quoted image]
Let’s toast.
[quoted image]

Ahhh- you got your hands on some CBS - a great reward for a job well done. Cheers!

#1098 5 years ago

Ready to sand the EBD cabinet and get it prepped for the final clear.

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#1099 5 years ago

Why is this step needed ?

When stenciling two things naturally happen
You create sharp paint lines and edges as one color builds around other.
A light scuff across highlights how the gold and red are closer to the surface than the black. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

Another thing that happens is the clear will build up around the biggest edges and slightly gather.
Not a true run or curtains so much just a heavier edge.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

Another area this easily happens on the sacrificial coats of clear are around holes.
Leg bolt holes are usually the biggest and most obvious. These would be tough to spot without having scuffed across them lightly to highlight it. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

This sanding step will put a nice final level on everything and then it will be in my hands to spray it perfectly without recreating any of those issues.
That is tough for the average painter these have lots of straight edges but having the surface prepped right and working for you not against you helps.

#1100 5 years ago

Lower is sanded nice and flat.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

Any minor breakthroughs are noted with tape. EC109CFD-F44A-4FC5-8BCD-3DB6B7C46783 (resized).jpegEC109CFD-F44A-4FC5-8BCD-3DB6B7C46783 (resized).jpeg
EC109CFD-F44A-4FC5-8BCD-3DB6B7C46783 (resized).jpegEC109CFD-F44A-4FC5-8BCD-3DB6B7C46783 (resized).jpeg

At this point it will take just a minor mask and mist of base color to clean them up.

9A7BAD85-B6BB-406E-890E-95463254E596 (resized).jpeg9A7BAD85-B6BB-406E-890E-95463254E596 (resized).jpeg
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