Addams Family, The
Bally, 1992
Airborne
Capcom, 1996
Alien (Heighway Pinball)
Heighway Pinball, 2017
Black Knight
Williams, 1980
Bram Stoker's Dracula
Williams, 1993
Centaur
Bally, 1981
Centigrade 37
Gottlieb, 1977
Champion Pub
Bally, 1998He did well.
After watching and helping me some over the years he had few questions. A9C1442F-1371-4ABB-B940-CF0181B0449D (resized).jpeg
This one made me laugh. Don’t worry I am not turning him loose on anything substantial just trying to find a way to help us both be a bit more productive.
98E902AA-26F0-40C8-9E6C-166D740C4B9D (resized).pngQuoted from High_End_Pins:Going to start working through the IJs
For these Curtis will tear them down at the warehouse on the weekends.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Looking forward to seeing what you might do with the plastic IJ airplanes. Lots of possibilities.
I put some diecast planes on my IJ years ago.
4F455F51-7B78-4095-8DBD-24865DF8171F (resized).jpegMade good progress on the KW Diner.
It has required way more attention and parts than anticipated
All new switches 693576DC-5F6E-4609-8BE1-7E7210FF4806 (resized).jpeg
All new lamp sockets. GI and feature flashers too. 3ED7B909-0F94-4D5D-B464-9CC78842DFC2 (resized).jpeg7346A7A9-0FD9-4CCE-911D-E23DC775FC5C (resized).jpeg
Target banks 2882CBC9-C6CB-4331-9DB0-427EB168BC14 (resized).jpeg
E6266629-F5B8-4F8F-993F-B9D7C3794A4F (resized).jpegI'm newer to this thread, and haven't had time to read all 219 pages. But that Silverball mania you recently did looked incredible.
What, if anything, do you do with the underside of the playfield?
Are you spraying it with clear?
I recently picked up a CPR playfield, and have the opportunity to put a coat of something on there before I populate it.
Diner KW playfield is just about ready to set in the cabinet. 8C7C14C3-D58B-4C0F-A2C2-E568998088A6 (resized).jpeg
The cabinet wiring is really bad having to make several new connections and a full GI section from the transformer.74DC712C-81F1-4F9F-A6FD-078FE661F39A (resized).jpeg
This is trash 9EC6EB89-824E-414D-A6DA-47B9629FB9EC (resized).jpeg
Now I am doubling at the transformer instead of at the board connector for better heat distribution although it will be full LEDs 0CA68B5B-9502-4EE8-A69F-D6C1D852A3CE (resized).jpeg
AE090377-6FC7-423F-9C41-EDBDE8A3E3CB (resized).jpeg
Did that. 493BD753-2AF1-44BF-AEAA-1CF8DFBEE971 (resized).jpeg
Made a mount for the LED ocd board since Diners have some unused standoffs. B7217456-2547-4498-A8B9-7D9681E6B524 (resized).jpeg
Wheel motor runs close so a little protection is placed there just in case. A4B891EC-F324-4B43-915B-8B9945535D10 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from dr_spidey:I'm newer to this thread, and haven't had time to read all 219 pages. But that Silverball mania you recently did looked incredible.
What, if anything, do you do with the underside of the playfield?
Are you spraying it with clear?
I recently picked up a CPR playfield, and have the opportunity to put a coat of something on there before I populate it.
I typically just sand it clean. On games where they are coated gray then I use a foam roller and roll base coat on them so they look correct.
In general I like that best because it is more like a stain. I don’t really want to seal both sides of the wood. I like to leave the underside open to breathe a bit. So much solvent topside already.
Closed out this week with playfields. Some for current and upcoming projects others left over playfield only jobs.
Those are these three. They are finally slickening up. What I ran into with them mostly was graining.
They would look slick and level then the next day there would be a few spots where the wood wicked the clear in completely.
These types of playfields eat a lot of material but eventually stop the absorption.
2F552160-588F-4DE5-9786-E332E27613B3 (resized).jpeg4C84B2D7-62B1-494D-B55D-D9349A34D1C2 (resized).jpeg655906CA-A1A9-40F7-A3BF-0A721CDA4ED2 (resized).jpegCleared the apron for the KW Diner while I was at it and the IJ playfield for the current IJ in process that one needed the willie correction and had a pretty ugly shooter lane.If you even mention that type of thing to most producers or suppliers they are clueless so you just have to do the best you can with what they give you to work with. Dealt with that along with a NOS Sopranos for an upcoming project.
4FA14EBD-F1B4-437B-90D3-FA593B783539 (resized).jpeg31C02EB2-1B0E-4BB1-B352-121AE742FFD4 (resized).jpeg43991ADF-A0F5-49D4-B9A6-641461A2D5FC (resized).jpegED7EAFDE-7740-417C-9D61-AFF60143784E (resized).jpegSanded and polished the Prototype FH playfiel and the Diner JD playfield. Those are ready for rebuild this week.
A1675915-19DC-4045-8D8F-3A98F94C352B (resized).jpeg85CAD577-ACA2-4559-B439-1C9A3C9A9F6D (resized).jpegF727A0B5-737B-47CB-A3FB-98BEFF029007 (resized).jpegF70BFE4B-2E94-4B8A-9A21-4D0AF84F3763 (resized).jpegD0785388-560B-447B-A252-42BB9346E836 (resized).jpeg491F6901-889D-4A40-A16D-956F043F20D8 (resized).jpeg0A570DA9-25A3-4075-B168-237CE8D12E4E (resized).jpeg12562169-6B9A-429B-83C1-E2362E991081 (resized).jpeg7175149F-CB6F-4C5C-92D0-2FD0BF74432D (resized).jpegF9A803FE-9BD3-42E3-8374-276F300D2C74 (resized).jpegYou may have addressed before, but with all this playfield work I'm curious with your clear how long you allow/suggest curing before you actually play games on them? Seems like you move some of these games out pretty fast, so was wondering.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:You may have addressed before, but with all this playfield work I'm curious with your clear how long you allow/suggest curing before you actually play games on them? Seems like you move some of these games out pretty fast, so was wondering.
Two weeks is what I recommend.
A lot of talk on here centers around playfields but the reality is it’s about coatings. The fact it is on a playfield introduces very few additional concerns.
The playfield is still a playfield and the clearcoat is still a clearcoat. No amount of waiting will change that if the products are good and compatible.
The products I use recommend overnight cure before assembly or polishing.
72 hours prior to decaling. That is because you would be trapping solvents under the decal installed if you did so prior and they will likely bubble or bond permanently to the surface.
Next day delivery on an automobile.
I like to sand and polish in 5-7 days then assemble so well past the minimum.
By the time that takes place and the game is playable we are usually at the two week mark or so.
A few test plays and it goes out so typically the finish is a month or more past the acceptable delivery date once the game is back home.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Two weeks is what I recommend.
A lot of talk on here centers around playfields but the reality is it’s about coatings. The fact it is on a playfield introduces very few additional concerns.
The playfield is still a playfield and the clearcoat is still a clearcoat. No amount of waiting will change that if the products are good and compatible.
The products I use recommend overnight cure before assembly or polishing.
72 hours prior to decaling. That is because you would be trapping solvents under the decal installed if you did so prior and they will likely bubble or bond permanently to the surface.
Next day delivery on an automobile.
I like to sand and polish in 5-7 days then assemble so well past the minimum.
By the time that takes place and the game is playable we are usually at the two week mark or so.
A few test plays and it goes out so typically the finish is a month or more past the acceptable delivery date once the game is back home.
Makes you wonder why you would spend the money on a Mirco playfield. Mirco seems to be the only game in town for an FH playfield. I ask this as someone who wants to buy a Funhouse playfield for a restore.
Quoted from reynolds531:Makes you wonder why you would spend the money on a Mirco playfield. Mirco seems to be the only game in town for an FH playfield. I ask this as someone who wants to buy a Funhouse playfield for a restore.
This FH playfield restoration isn’t optional because of the uniqueness of it being a prototype.
A lot of these playfields are not worth saving though. It isn’t that you can’t make them look good again but more that for the effort it takes to do that it’s hard to justify when you can buy a new one.
If I told someone it’s $2000 -$2500 to restore the original adds 2-4 months to the process and it may or may not be perfect and or the inserts may or may not ghost in time or a sharp edge could inexplicably chip they would and will almost default to a replacement for half the cost without the concessions and added downtime.
Now granted the new one isn’t perfect out of the box but it is a much better place to start than blown out.
People are down on the replacements sometimes because they just seem to blow out quicker and easier than the original did.
The current solution is to pretreat the replacement and lean on the producers to do better.
Shouldn’t have to but you do if you want it to hold up. NOS is about the same but was a more stable and reliable offering.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Cleared the apron for the KW Diner while I was at it and the IJ playfield for the current IJ in process that one needed the willie correction and had a pretty ugly shooter lane.If you even mention that type of thing to most producers or suppliers they are clueless so you just have to do the best you can with what they give you to work with. Dealt with that along with a NOS Sopranos for an upcoming project.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Still having to fix her smile evertime!
Quoted from edward472:Still having to fix her smile evertime!
Yeah she’s got the HEP dental plan.
Finished my 1975 GT80MX
0F8CF8F2-56BA-4D43-BE4E-A8ED89A0126D (resized).jpeg0FAB03CE-78D7-41EF-AFC1-26E2BA329874 (resized).jpeg2E79BDD1-429E-4848-82ED-AAB325AC77A4 (resized).jpeg327134B4-B666-439A-90A5-22D78397D36B (resized).jpeg55500E2A-BEEC-4BF3-BB5B-18196D1138F1 (resized).jpeg6E898C26-6981-4DF3-8A6C-723373F95C00 (resized).jpegD33CBD96-C7C8-4240-B6CE-B721198553ED (resized).jpegDE4CC77E-E077-4E03-B351-F9E28062D684 (resized).jpegF0125812-F37C-4673-A5D2-7D27A53FD42A (resized).jpegMore 75 pictures you get the idea.
18CE5FAB-F723-410B-9310-EE51F4C995D7 (resized).jpeg5DBE433B-B884-4B33-899D-4AB8A5FDE076 (resized).jpeg634D1693-D3E0-4529-8D9D-79EAC3DA576A (resized).jpegD6772A74-C503-4C04-B913-E61ED98BE5F7 (resized).jpegCF68F2DB-E7B9-4937-B9C9-C108702C29D0 (resized).jpeg537187F5-CB26-46C0-B3B6-606BB0C8A8B7 (resized).jpeg7A760951-7436-4846-83D8-70CA91DDADE4 (resized).jpegCF8E85DF-BC43-4D40-8B1B-4BAEC87DC276 (resized).jpegEF07ED04-329E-4340-B71B-B7680506EA63 (resized).jpegA few more
27CCE7A6-281D-4C96-81C9-BE951BA179A2 (resized).jpeg23F7912B-3867-4EA7-904B-7D780FA726D6 (resized).jpeg734BEDA0-3436-4BC2-878C-96A336DA6E41 (resized).jpeg5DF7ACA7-8D3F-40A0-8B11-F56894CEAFAA (resized).jpeg2F6C3FFD-31FE-4348-BA78-895DEC3D1CB4 (resized).jpeg164AA912-AB0A-498F-9AF5-723305BF3EEB (resized).jpegE724A626-D208-44BE-B7D0-4BD398E05EB7 (resized).jpegB971E8B5-229D-4F48-B909-46F6E20CF8A7 (resized).jpegClosing out the weekend I put the two completed bikes beside each other and I decided I like the colors I used on the 75 better. 09DA7BBD-76B9-4139-9B45-FA6227D0D037 (resized).jpeg
Redid the stuff from the 80 with the same paint /codes for consistency. F605DF69-AC43-441A-A810-1FBEEBE0D109 (resized).jpeg
17B8D282-5E70-4C54-AC4D-FDE54EF1D3A6 (resized).jpeg17F4FFA1-54DE-4AF8-894B-38939B87F786 (resized).jpeg21DBE80D-7AF3-463A-BD3E-6A5DA182A4F3 (resized).jpeg3ECFB47A-30C5-4B95-A3F0-2903067490E6 (resized).jpegStenciled that with the same yellow from the 75 and cleared it. Done with that stuff until next weekend.
70D3188D-3DC6-431A-B596-79C55CBFF628 (resized).jpeg507B6EC5-A7DE-41DD-8291-54FDA299CF16 (resized).jpeg3B4BDD47-F46B-450D-836A-DDC9A8B55DC1 (resized).jpeg99A124D6-087C-4F36-856B-3FC2AF66095E (resized).jpegWorking through this first IJ stuff.
This shit is beat. People keep sending these total basket cases then expecting miracles and lifetime support.
If they get it back and even need to adjust a switch they are dumbfounded. It makes me wonder how they even made it one day with these games or why they bought them at all.
Don’t get me wrong I always provide thorough and friendly customer support but it’s getting to the point with some of these games and owners where you almost feel like regardless of the expense you are being taken advantage of.
B7771994-6C95-4717-9C48-B51B401829BA (resized).jpegA393FDB7-505F-41F8-BB6A-5CAF6054F473 (resized).jpeg133947C5-9B36-4681-84EC-15C5E7CDB3E3 (resized).jpeg5CDA2505-4724-4FED-963B-DA994164EE1A (resized).jpegB555658D-30EB-47C7-AF69-7D5C80FFEA1A (resized).jpeg66F0C0F7-6176-461E-B9C4-895C06AB23F6 (resized).jpegMade good progress on the mechs. 277B0DB0-BF2E-4FD8-BC05-D93A75E456EF (resized).jpeg
Corrosion is heavy
450276E1-9C37-498E-9538-A3564C238438 (resized).jpeg
Used to that. 37E85887-0350-4EC0-91B0-D591A150F34B (resized).jpeg7FD3ECC2-589F-4D97-84AA-517798586715 (resized).jpeg920FD19F-0736-497F-88FE-8F9638F05882 (resized).jpeg
All this stuff is better replaced or exchanged for plated parts. That trough in particular is a mess.
2DBCEBA0-03D4-40A1-BE56-33C4B426CB84 (resized).jpegQuoted from High_End_Pins:People keep sending these total basket cases then expecting miracles and lifetime support.
If they get it back and even need to adjust a switch they are dumbfounded. It makes me wonder how they even made it one day with these games or why they bought them at all.
It's probably the worst aspect of the pinball hobby.
I just uncovered this secret video of Chris interviewing with consultants (two guys named Bob) at his last job before he was forced to go into business for himself restoring pinball machines (he was a little out of shape back then). 
About half of the IJs here are going to need new lamp panels so I am going to try and get a few steps ahead.
2FF8A7A2-28EF-4654-8603-AA4CFDE24DD8 (resized).jpeg897CC4A6-A383-4C58-862F-3198BD693C12 (resized).jpegF61B0FE1-5EE7-4886-8EE5-0C87F376956F (resized).jpeg1DCB9D40-9024-4A9A-BD7E-AA73FCA5608A (resized).jpegQuoted from punkin:Hope your week gets better Chris, it's unusually to hear you negative, so must be a bit of pressure.
Thanks! It’s good just frustrating sometimes when you get on a run where just about everything is train wreck and no one is aware/prepared for it.
How did you get such clean holes in the plywood? I tried recently with a drill and I got a chewed up version. Do You sandwich another piece of wood between them? Maybe I used cheap plywood from Home Depot.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Working through this first IJ stuff.
This shit is beat. People keep sending these total basket cases then expecting miracles and lifetime support.
If they get it back and even need to adjust a switch they are dumbfounded. It makes me wonder how they even made it one day with these games or why they bought them at all.
Don’t get me wrong I always provide thorough and friendly customer support but it’s getting to the point with some of these games and owners where you almost feel like regardless of the expense you are being taken advantage of.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
This is a tribute to your skill and reputation as a pinball restorer. I suspect that as more people discover pinball they are willing to buy the top games in any condition at premium prices and ship them off to.....you got it, HEP. As someone who has restored beat up routed games and not even close to what you do, I can more than appreciate the level of artistry and passion you have for this. If a person has never taken a pinball machine apart in any way shape or form it is impossible to understand what you do. I could not do what you do and I doubt there are not many individuals that can restore machines to your level.
At some point any customer with a HEP machine needs some basic knowledge and skills in trouble shooting and maintenance.
Quoted from punkin:Fuck, nib games come broken.
True. HEP is way above any NIB from any manufacturer in my opinion. He is not an assembly line trying to crank out as many games as possible. He is meticulous, detailed, methodical and his games have much more care into them than any large manufacturer can do.
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:True. HEP is way above any NIB from any manufacturer in my opinion. He is not an assembly line trying to crank out as many games as possible. He is meticulous, detailed, methodical and his games have much more care into them than any large manufacturer can do.
Still bounce around in a truck for thousands of miles.
Quoted from punkin:To be fair you'd probs have to weigh it up against 2 NIB games. Still an easy decision.
Good point.
Thanks guys. I appreciate it a bunch.
I am actually glad to give the basket cases a new life that isn’t a problem. They are just hard to to work through efficiently sometimes and when unexpected it throws things off.
More and more often these are the types of games I see and they are really bad because they are dolled up garbage. Someone has thrown some decals and a mild shop out on a total junker and sold it for a premium.
A bad restoration is worse than no restoration at all.
Just about done with the KW Diner. image (resized).jpg
Also about to close out the TOTAN repack.
image (resized).jpgQuoted from High_End_Pins:Thanks guys. I appreciate it a bunch.
I am actually glad to give the basket cases a new life that isn’t a problem. They are just hard to to work through efficiently sometimes and when unexpected it throws things off.
More and more often these are the types of games I see and they are really bad because they are dolled up garbage. Someone has thrown some decals and a mild shop out on a total junker and sold it for a premium.
A bad restoration is worse than no restoration at all.
Just about done with the KW Diner. [quoted image]
Also about to close out the TOTAN repack.
[quoted image]
This begs the question: do you ever say "no" to a project? What would your criteria be for a "no" response? Lack of available parts for a unique machine comes to mind. Do you require detailed photographs of a machine prior to it being shipped to you?
This reminds me of why I do not restore vintage bicycles anymore.
Quoted from reynolds531:This begs the question: do you ever say "no" to a project? What would your criteria be for a "no" response? Lack of available parts for a unique machine comes to mind. Do you require detailed photographs of a machine prior to it being shipped to you?
This reminds me of why I do not restore vintage bicycles anymore.
These days I do say no a little more often. In the past I would take on just about anything. Super rare games(I have done three King Kongs,Krull numerous prototypes and that sort of thing) were a specialty for a while there but it was stressful.
Pulling full Mylar from a one off game,even just handling the backglass or figuring out how to get plastics made without going broke or getting in trouble.
They were accomplishments way above and beyond but usually met with a “Ehh that’s cool what’s next ?”and impossible to justify the effort for the money earned.
I would do them mostly out of pride and knowing I would figure it out and make it happen.
At this point I am just less ambitious about that sort of thing because it was more of a tax than a credit. It never amounted to much of anything besides some bragging rights.
There isn’t much I couldn’t do but I have come to learn and accept what I shouldn’t do.
My only real criteria is that a game is complete first and foremost. If it’s all there then that’s a good start. Playfields that need almost a total repaint are another deal breaker
I started doing this at a time when that was the only option and it was just part of the daily work. I was used to it and it wasn’t a problem. Now I just feel like it is a huge time waster unless there is no alternative. That is because once complete it could still chip in a high wear area or have an insert ghost. Pretty annoying after all that effort but out of my control. A new playfield could do the same but you haven’t invested so much of yourself into it to be deflated by it.
As a result I just recommend new playfields when possible and perfect those. It’s based on lots of experience and experiences.
I generally say no to EMs even though you will see a few in the thread. They are hard to support from afar and even harder to work into the mix.
All that said if I have a passion for something or want to prove a point I am my own worst enemy and will be taking it on.
Quoted from Stretch7:I use a forstner bit and drill press with a a backing/dummy board in behind and works good for me.
I do the same works great when I have to but…. I couldn’t answer that one because I didn’t make those IJ lamp panels the cabinet builder did. CnCed most likely.
Finished the TOTAN repack.
Finally going to have some space to set up the Airborne.
D02562C5-854D-41FF-8FC7-1757CC1D0261 (resized).jpegQuoted from High_End_Pins:All that said if I have a passion for something or want to prove a point I am my own worst enemy and will be taking it on.
Just love this comment. I've found myself in trouble in so many ways for the same reason.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Finally going to have some space to set up the Airborne.
Looking forward to this! (@doghouse, gonna watch this build?)
Quoted from High_End_Pins:I do the same works great when I have to but…. I couldn’t answer that one because I didn’t make those IJ lamp panels the cabinet builder did. CnCed most likely.
Those lamp panels look really nice. Do you replace the lamp sockets with new ones or reuse? I have a bunch I need to replace on a Getaway due to brittleness.
I think half my games are HEP (or still maybe a tad more) and the other half are a mix of NIB, HUO, and one sample TZ that I should have sent to Chris but never did. I’ve had some of the earliest HEP restorations, too, and I can say without a doubt that my HEP games take SO much less care and feeding than the others. I have a problem here and there, but it’s almost always just something like a switch that wears out and goes bad. I think I had maybe one or two switches that needed adjustment early in life from HEP, but that’s out of a LOT of HEP games. For the most part they not only just work, they just work for a really long time.
Haven’t ever noticed a chip or ghosted insert on my HEP games, either. I think the only basket cases I ever sent him were prototypes and we had some idea what he was getting into, though I know at least a couple were worse than advertised from the seller. Chris let me know it wasn’t what was advertised and wasn’t thrilled when that happened, but they were prototypes so you just have to take what you get sometimes. But he made the magic happen nonetheless.
I still think my favorite HEP game is the TAF he basically built from scratch using a VERY blown out donor game (I mean they didn’t get much worse than that thing), a mostly complete wired prototype playfield, and then I let him run free with all the NOS parts he wanted as long as he used the hand-made weldments and the red PCBs. I’ve done a good many mods to it since I got it since the HEP build predated things like Pinsound and some other stuff, but I still don’t think I’ve ever had to “fix” anything. I don’t know how you’d even advertise this if I wanted to sell it, but I’ll never sell it so it don’t matter.
—Donnie
Quoted from Duramadmax:Those lamp panels look really nice. Do you replace the lamp sockets with new ones or reuse? I have a bunch I need to replace on a Getaway due to brittleness.
Good luck finding those lamp sockets. I looked for months, and finally found some used ones in Argentina from a guy Xpablo. I needed 37 of them in white and 10 in black (flashers). Though there is no difference other than color. Rewiring them has been a trip. I am sure there is a tool for that, but I used a thin blade screwdriver to push the wires in.
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