Addams Family, The
Bally, 1992
Airborne
Capcom, 1996
Alien (Heighway Pinball)
Heighway Pinball, 2017
Black Knight
Williams, 1980
Bram Stoker's Dracula
Williams, 1993
Centaur
Bally, 1981
Centigrade 37
Gottlieb, 1977
Champion Pub
Bally, 1998Went by the warehouse.
Since I have to send the Diner jukebox thing off to be plated I thought it best to grab a few Idols to send with it.
I have five IJs 830D1D66-257C-4CEB-BF3E-6D1E4E138B52 (resized).jpeg
Grabbed three idols. Why not all five?
A little too risky to put all your eggs in one basket.
04BC7968-84F7-4AF9-8D3F-79B4D9263889 (resized).jpeg
Setting up the former NIB Diner
I see despite cabinet protectors that we have some indentations. ACAAE82C-7058-4780-9195-1E30B43BAC8F (resized).jpegB85370E0-B3E8-441F-93F2-EE607D9E04F1 (resized).jpeg
These legs perhaps factory on the right were sent with it. AA79291B-EA92-4762-A377-0A03BEAA8F09 (resized).jpeg
The crimp is far too tight and that’s what happens. Unfortunately many of the latest legs I have been getting in are also like this. Sucks because they are too tight and even protectors can’t keep them off the cabinets. Parts guys need to fix this and reject them.
Used some better legs that I have pictured to the left and no issues.D8E49EC7-7FD3-40B9-A9F8-180F13B1801D (resized).jpeg
This one won’t be here long.
59FC3691-5194-4F3D-8428-80ACC9BD903F (resized).jpegFF55C6BF-429A-4EF1-8489-4CA076B02727 (resized).jpegCC cabinet is screened prepped and decaled.
655DFD6E-AC3E-4E7A-B489-060082F03C69 (resized).jpegC9E361EB-D010-4C75-B816-ECF6FADBD248 (resized).jpegimage (resized).jpgQuoted from High_End_Pins:While I let that cure a day and a half I organized all my parts.
Put them in certain categories. Without a doubt more money in parts than the cost of the bikes but that’s how it goes often. Doesn’t matter if it’s this or something else. You replace what you can with OEM/NOS parts. Recondition any and everything else.
[quoted image]
Now that looks more like my garage, lol.
Matt.
pasted_image (resized).pngHigh_End_Pins so are you doing these pit bikes for yourself or are you branching out a little to reduce the monotony of just pins? Some of my most formative years were spent riding around on these in sand pits. Thanks for sharing. Love the work.
Quoted from PBFan:High_End_Pins so are you doing these pit bikes for yourself or are you branching out a little to reduce the monotony of just pins? Some of my most formative years were spent riding around on these in sand pits. Thanks for sharing. Love the work.
Right now just doing them as a hobby. I like the little bikes with metal tanks and fenders because they are essentially a small scale model of larger ones so they offer the same process in a smaller footprint. Newer bikes have a lot of plastic parts and that doesn’t lend itself to many options nor a utilization of the talents/skill set.
Sticking with the same basic bike gives me the ability to recondition the take off parts from the previous build and recondition them for the next in terms of stuff I can’t hunt down.
I am going to completely HEP the barn find to a alternate version.
After these I will probably move up to 125s but I am on the lookout for anything that interest me.
image (resized).jpgDiner cabinet is decaled.
Should get the boards back this week. This was the overview from the board repair
A bit of a mess this board set. Wrong resistors on the Interconnect board among other issues.
You might have quite a bit of solenoid damage under the playfield. There’s a lot of damage on the aux power driver including one TIP36C which was in the board backwards from a prior repair.
It’s turn out that two TIP36C’s were in backwards and another blown.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgI doubt they chose the colour but process colours (CMYK) cannot produce a florescent colour by mixing Cyan, Magenta, Yellow. That was probably all they could achieve if it was a printed style rather than screened. The other colour that is hard is a proper dark blue, they tend to lean heavily towards either the cyan or become purple as you try to make it darker.
Quoted from BJM-Maxx:I doubt they chose the colour but process colours (CMYK) cannot produce a florescent colour by mixing Cyan, Magenta, Yellow. That was probably all they could achieve if it was a printed style rather than screened. The other colour that is hard is a proper dark blue, they tend to lean heavily towards either the cyan or become purple as you try to make it darker.
Exactly. You really need a CMYK+ printer that supports adding additional color ink(s) like an orange, white, gold, silver, etc. to hit certain colors. A nice orange is just one of the colors that is not possible.
Quoted from BJM-Maxx:I doubt they chose the colour but process colours (CMYK) cannot produce a florescent colour by mixing Cyan, Magenta, Yellow. That was probably all they could achieve if it was a printed style rather than screened. The other colour that is hard is a proper dark blue, they tend to lean heavily towards either the cyan or become purple as you try to make it darker.
Makes sense. Run into that type of thing myself sometimes when it comes to painting. Some things are just limited unless you use and do exactly as done before.
These look good overall just don’t quite have the pop of the originals.
Ramps and plastics are done for the Diner(KW) now that there are two in the mix.
Hope to wrap up the CC repack and get the Airborne set up in its place. Never done one of those before so it will take some documentation.
1DC2AFB0-0EB1-4442-AB70-BD48FA98BECB (resized).jpeg202664A3-D0D6-4524-ABC1-60A2267077A4 (resized).jpegBA6F37AA-4582-4E64-95EF-9E397CD86CE1 (resized).jpegQuoted from BJM-Maxx:I doubt they chose the colour but process colours (CMYK) cannot produce a florescent colour by mixing Cyan, Magenta, Yellow. That was probably all they could achieve if it was a printed style rather than screened. The other colour that is hard is a proper dark blue, they tend to lean heavily towards either the cyan or become purple as you try to make it darker.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Exactly. You really need a CMYK+ printer that supports adding additional color ink(s) like an orange, white, gold, silver, etc. to hit certain colors. A nice orange is just one of the colors that is not possible.
There's also the difference between using a scanned image as your color source, or the naked eye. If the plastic set they used had faded at all, then their source is flawed, resulting in an inherently flawed output.
Then, it also depends on how they print their stuff. Not many uber high end printers that use 8 or more ink cartridges can do fluorescents well, especially when they're not color calibrated often. If they're screen printing, could just be a bad color mix/match by the ink computer/guy, if they didn't use the actual Pantone Spot Color called out by the original artwork. Then, there's also the fact that Pantone changes colors and names of colors every year. There are "old standards" from color books that have been the same for years, then they go and change it slightly with either a different formulation or a different name, for whatever reason. Or it could be that they picked the correct fluorescent orange and forgot to add a slight shade of another color to darken it up a smidge to match the original art.
There are unfortunately many ways to get it very slightly off. As long as corrections are made along the way, and things get fixed as better original samples are found, it's all good. Perfection is achievable, but only to the degree that these games came out of the factory all identical, which we all know they didn't! 
For the record, and AFAIK, B/W use ALL spot colors on the artwork packages for these games. From stories I've heard over the years, and from CPR and PPS talking about that whole TAF cemetery green debacle, the definite info on what all these colors are supposed to be exists somewhere.
Indeed, you are only going to be able to hit the brighter colors using spot color inks if you don't have a CMYK+ printer that addresses various areas of the color gamut. I'm sure they know what the color should be, but they just can't get to it with their equipment. I won't go into too much detail for those who don't have experience with process color production (I've been doing it on a production scale since the late 90's), you can't really think in terms of if the color is right or wrong, rather, is it accurate to the standard?
The leading standard for color matching in the printing industry is Pantone, and a bright orange is an example where the Pantone standard is different if you are using a solid ink (like a press or silk screen) or CMYK - combination of Cyan, Magenta, Yellow, and Black toner/ink (like most laser or inkjet printers). Here is a scan of a page of my Pantone color bridge (note that my scan does not accurately represent what the color actually appears like in natural light). Regardless, you will see for example that the Pantone color 1655C (coated) is a bright orange as a solid ink but a dingy orange when created via the CMYK process. Both colors are accurate to that Pantone number based upon how they are produced, but they are obviously quite different from one another.
This is why you need to know the technology that is being used to print your art even if/when you provide Pantone values. As mentioned, beyond the values themselves there are factors like if the printer is Pantone certified, even if certified how often is it color calibrated, and all sorts of other factors that can adversely impact color accuracy.
While I obviously don't speak for HEP, as a professional restorer this is probably one of the types of challenges he faces on a regular basis. Ideally, if available, a NOS part would often be better than even a quality reproduction part because it would be true to the original. Sometimes reproduction parts can be perfect, but often times the way they are reversed engineered and manufactured today vs. 30+ years ago just lends itself to variation.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Indeed, you are only going to be able to hit the brighter colors using spot color inks if you don't have a CMYK+ printer that addresses various areas of the color gamut. I'm sure they know what the color should be, but they just can't get to it with their equipment. I won't go into too much detail for those who don't have experience with process color production (I've been doing it on a production scale since the late 90's), you can't really think in terms of if the color is right or wrong, rather, is it accurate to the standard?
The leading standard for color matching in the printing industry is Pantone, and a bright orange is an example where the Pantone standard is different if you are using a solid ink (like a press or silk screen) or CMYK - combination of Cyan, Magenta, Yellow, and Black toner/ink (like most laser or inkjet printers). Here is a scan of a page of my Pantone color bridge (note that my scan does not accurately represent what the color actually appears like in natural light). Regardless, you will see for example that the Pantone color 1655C (coated) is a bright orange as a solid ink but a dingy orange when created via the CMYK process. Both colors are accurate to that Pantone number based upon how they are produced, but they are obviously quite different from one another.
This is why you need to know the technology that is being used to print your art even if/when you provide Pantone values. As mentioned, beyond the values themselves there are factors like if the printer is Pantone certified, even if certified how often is it color calibrated, and all sorts of other factors that can adversely impact color accuracy.
[quoted image]
While I obviously don't speak for HEP, as a professional restorer this is probably one of the types of challenges he faces on a regular basis. Ideally, if available, a NOS part would often be better than even a quality reproduction part because it would be true to the original. Sometimes reproduction parts can be perfect, but often times the way they are reversed engineered and manufactured today vs. 30+ years ago just lends itself to variation.
Yeah. I don’t really have a problem with reproduction parts for the most part. NOS is normally king if possible but not always. For example NOS WPC-95 playfields are more prone to insert ghosting.
I would take a repro System 11 playfield over a NOS as well they too have insert and adhesion problems.
It’s very hard to break down what is or is not best or most desirable at times. It’s on such a case by case basis.
When I point out color differences or things like that it’s more of an acknowledgment than a criticism. Often others will note and criticize it as if there are other options. You need what you need and can get what you can get.
New and sometimes slightly off is much better than broken and worn out.
As tech evolves some things improve others do not but just having the options when in need is the biggest improvement.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Yeah. I don’t really have a problem with reproduction parts for the most part. NOS is normally king if possible but not always. For example NOS WPC-95 playfields are more prone to insert ghosting.
I would take a repro System 11 playfield over a NOS as well they too have insert and adhesion problems.
It’s very hard to break down what is or is not best or most desirable at times. It’s on such a case by case basis.
When I point out color differences or things like that it’s more of an acknowledgment than a criticism. Often others will note and criticize it as if there are other options. You need what you need and can get what you can get.
New and sometimes slightly off is much better than broken and worn out.
As tech evolves some things improve others do not but just having the options when in need is the biggest improvement.
Kind of like the "Serenity Prayer"
"To accept the things I cannot change; Courage to change the things I can; And wisdom to know the difference"
The only thing we can control is what is in our power to change. What is outside of our control we basically have to accept and move on.
However, With all the technology today it is sometimes hard to accept some of the "junk" being produced and that adds to the frustration when trying to do things the best way humanly possible.
Refinished the backboard for the Diner.
Have a new decal for that. 3961F7B7-D817-4DF0-B9B8-52211E975ED3 (resized).jpeg
Going to put a session into the prototype FH playfield.
It needs a lot. Can only do so much for it but I will do all I can within reason.
10FBCD5F-53C5-4C1E-8773-99C8F628C4AF (resized).jpeg
Sanded. 0A18D5CB-E514-4DCC-8A7E-CE8CF7BA41C0 (resized).jpeg
Making an anchor for the fiberglass.
This is kind of like what a dentist does when building up for a crown I think.
165DD4A7-1ABB-4D1C-89A9-A867ADCA7796 (resized).jpeg20006544-7147-481A-8B74-893D867970CB (resized).jpeg7C86EC57-30C6-41D5-B9AB-C7EE71F3C5D9 (resized).jpegAfter standing over the FH playfield all morning cutting out shapes and colors about the only thing I felt like or had time for was a quick run. This is my first of any distance in a couple months. I have mostly been focusing on functional fitness and numerous short sprints worked into a circuit over the winter. No heavy weights nor steady state cardio.
Did okay all things considered. I think my first mile would have at least been in the mid 8s but I got caught at the crosswalk waiting on traffic.
It’s always downhill from there 
Cadence was decent and I did have enough left to sprint the last little bit.
I am actually not really into running but it’s something you have to remain capable of as long as you can. 72ABFE93-D772-4FA5-A43D-9E76314E5D15 (resized).png459A5476-DE43-48A1-82D8-FFD7CCC6AEDE (resized).png
Main things I aim to do is keep my vo2 max up. These are not scientific but it gives you something compare over time.
At the end of last year it was high. A83A3FAB-7223-4DA0-B8E2-4797F35580EA (resized).png
Taken a slight dip over the winter so I aim to get it back in the high category. 93365935-5DC9-4286-8FFF-8B22521142A2 (resized).png
Healthy lunch lots of water and time to get back to it.
8390B42F-A0CF-439D-991B-1B015D35E85B (resized).jpegWhat app is that you're using? I don't like running with my phone, I find no matter where I keep it, it gets in the way. What is cadence? For me, I find variety works. My staples are skiing in the winter, mountain biking/long hikes in the warmer weather months. Then I fill in with squats, running up & down stairs, jump rope, jumping jacks, heavy bag that kind of thing. That takes care of the legs/cardio. Now that I'm 61 I can't do heavy weights anymore so I use dumbells and body weight, mostly calisthenics. If I don't use variety, I get bored, and boredom is the enemy of discipline. I'll do push-ups, but I vary the type and position, and there are tons. Squats,planks,pull ups,dumbbells. I'll set goals to see how many push-ups I can do in a day. Or in a row. That kind of thing. Alternating days between body parts, one day concentrating on arms, then shoulders, then back, squeeze in legs and cardio in between. I don't have a schedule, I just work out till I get sore and move around to parts of my body that aren't. This kind of mixed up variety seems to work well for me so I don't get bored and stop exercising. I find I'm so much more productive when I exercise and sleep better.
Orange work. EBFB56AC-0787-4A48-BDB7-D03DF43442F6 (resized).jpeg
Worked the fade. Takes a lot of messing. 589CC155-DED9-4410-8BAD-3E2F1A102F6C (resized).jpegA90D1DB2-7D69-47AF-BCCF-5E2B3B668B6E (resized).jpeg
Strategically breaking it right under the gangway sign.
This is what’s nice about understanding exactly what you are looking at and what goes where. 94A692DD-D452-4E5E-945B-B42A5D1928A0 (resized).jpeg
Yellow. A5A1F619-9051-47A2-8580-407D5C1DD63A (resized).jpeg
White. DC251E17-7D58-4CF9-8A77-8B9A877536CF (resized).jpeg
Wood.
4834F32F-AADB-48E6-85B8-51FAE5E0F834 (resized).jpeg
I did not waste any time cutting out things within colors that will be covered by parts. Like the little wooden halos in the jet bumper rings.
The reason is the more cuts the sloppier things get. Less cuts ,cleaner cuts will make for a nicer looking playfield overall especially once assembled.
Ok this is where we are at after a full day of repaints.
I am going to cut some stencils to clean up the jet bumper rings(black) then detail a few thing with the drill.
After that I can clear it for the second time and get a better sense of what needs more attention.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgQuoted from NYP:What app is that you're using?
That is the apple watch (fitness) app, I believe.
Quoted from NYP:I don't like running with my phone, I find no matter where I keep it, it gets in the way.
As phones have gotten bigger, that is definitely a challenge. Many people strap it to their arm which is one of the worst places - your arm moves A LOT while you run. This belt is the best solution I have found since your waist moves much less than your arm/hand/shorts pocket.
https://www.amazon.com/SPIbelt-No-Bounce-Smartphones-Expandable-Adjustable/dp/B004QQTDA2/
Quoted from NYP:What is cadence?
"Turnover" or steps per minute. How many times your feet hit the ground per minute.
Painted the jet bumper rings
E0795A71-F36A-4CB7-8305-342FAA5F4AC5 (resized).jpeg
Cleared after the detail work big improvements in several areas plus we are working closer to level for the final insert border repaints.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgQuoted from scootss:That is the apple watch (fitness) app, I believe.
As phones have gotten bigger, that is definitely a challenge. Many people strap it to their arm which is one of the worst places - your arm moves A LOT while you run. This belt is the best solution I have found since your waist moves much less than your arm/hand/shorts pocket.
amazon.com link »"Turnover" or steps per minute. How many times your feet hit the ground per minute.
I have an Apple Watch and a whoop strap so I can travel on foot or bike without my phone and still get phone calls,music accurate monitoring.
I like the whoop strap for the strain and sleep monitoring. Apple Watch will monitor sleep fairly well also but it’s main advantage is the streamlining between all devices and ability to get calls etc when away from your phone.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:I have an Apple Watch and a whoop strap so I can travel on foot or bike without my phone and still get phone calls,music accurate monitoring.
I like the whoop strap for the strain and sleep monitoring. Apple Watch will monitor sleep fairly well also but it’s main advantage is the streamlining between all devices and ability to get calls etc when away from your phone.
Thanks for the details. I have debated getting the whoop. Do you find that you use the whoop recovery score to plan the day's workout? I'd like to think I would use that but I tend to be a slave to the (running) plan.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:This is why you need to know the technology that is being used to print your art even if/when you provide Pantone values. As mentioned, beyond the values themselves there are factors like if the printer is Pantone certified, even if certified how often is it color calibrated, and all sorts of other factors that can adversely impact color accuracy.
If Rick at PPS could just tell us which Pantone color book is called out in the original artwork, that'd be great! I always just default to Solid Coated as that's what I've used the most over the years.
Just got a plastic set for FH.
WTF is going on here?
My homemade one looks better.
Why are we being peddled such shit?!!
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgQuoted from High_End_Pins:Just got a plastic set for FH.
WTF is going on here?
My homemade one looks better.
Why are we being peddled such shit?!!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
What am I missing here? Does the new one still have its masking on? It appears to he pretty banged up.
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:What am I missing here? Does the new one still have its masking on?
No. The original is a mirror the other thing is a wreck.
It’s not mirrored it’s gray with some strange round pattern inside of it.
image (resized).jpgQuoted from High_End_Pins:No. The original is a mirror the other thing is a wreck.
It’s not mirrored it’s gray with some strange round pattern inside of it.
[quoted image]
Ohhhhhh, gotcha.... yeah. That's pretty bad. Lol.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Things are looking up for the weekend project.
The pinball connections and friendships always have a way of paying off.
I avoid decals any chance I get.
[quoted image]
Does that "RING FOR BEER" bell actually work and if so where does one get it?
Quoted from High_End_Pins:No. The original is a mirror the other thing is a wreck.
It’s not mirrored it’s gray with some strange round pattern inside of it.
[quoted image]
It looks instead of actual mirroring they used an "oval mirror" background shape 
Quoted from zerbam:you have to buy the deluxe set to get the mirrored piece
I bought this set from Marco. Just said Funhouse plastic set.
Having to buy something different to get something correct seems kind of dumb.
Why not just make it right and charge accordingly?
Quoted from meSz:Does that "RING FOR BEER" bell actually work and if so where does one get it?
It does but only if you get deluxe wife set.
Quoted from zerbam:you have to buy the deluxe set to get the mirrored piece
So not only do we have Pro, Premium and Limited Edition machines we now have Standard and Deluxe parts to buy. This hobby has gone to hell!
Quoted from High_End_Pins:It does but only if you get deluxe wife set.
I assume the powder coated bell is the LE version?
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Sanded. [quoted image]
Making an anchor for the fiberglass.
This is kind of like what a dentist does when building up for a crown I think.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hep-this-week-9-17-18/page/217?hl=becker34 and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.
Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.
Matthews, NC
Truganina
Montréal, QC