Quoted from High_End_Pins:Cleared to save the current spot it is in.
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That looks amazing, well done Chris!
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Cleared to save the current spot it is in.
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Pin Porn...... Sexy time
Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:Pin Porn...... Sexy time
Everything coming from Christopher is Pin Porn!
If I may recommend, the Bally logo would look good in red to tie it in. Love that lower cab color choice.
Quoted from jwilson:I was wondering, how did you go from cars to pins?
This covers that on some level.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-evolution-of-hephigh-end-pins
Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:If I may recommend, the Bally logo would look good in red to tie it in. Love that lower cab color choice.
I definitely have some red plans for the head.
Right now it is just kind of blueprinted.
I would say it is about eight percent as it sets.
I ordered some more stencils so that will allow me to let the clear set a few days then more easily dial in the color scheme depending on what breaks through in sanding and plans I have.
What happened with that EBD cabinet was just spur of the moment last night but it ended up in a pretty good spot for the first pass.
I can start assembling the playfield now.it is a CPR gold that I have fully drilled and adjusted then cleared.
image (resized).jpg
Having installed several of these now I am already aware of some minor things that can be done to improve the install. Those adjustments are as noted.
Opening up the clogged wire guide holes. image (resized).jpg
Enlarging the through holes for various ballguide studs and post.
image (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpg
Slotting this one ballguide stud hole.
image (resized).jpg
Opening up the screw holes in the red area pictured.
image (resized).jpg
Predrilling all the underside holes. These are very faint as delivered and it gets almost invisible as it works towards the top of the playfield.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgQuoted from epeabs:So you tumble your parts for several days? No wonder mine don't come out that nice.
Depending on how bad they are. I had to pretreat most of these by turning them with a drill in scotchbrite.
Quoted from epeabs:So you tumble your parts for several days? No wonder mine don't come out that nice.
Chris also uses military grade tumblers.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Dumpster day.
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Tessio (Addams cabinet): Can you get me off the hook, Tom (Hep)? For old times' sake?
Tom Hagen(HEP): [shakes his head] Can't do it, Sally.
[Hagen watches sadly as Tessio is led by Cicci and the others to a waiting car]
Quoted from High_End_Pins:On TAF I normally black them out for a cleaner look
Ok, I'm going to nominate that point as your closest moment of attention to detail.
We can get a sense already of your extreme care with fine detail, but where do you draw the line? Do you "zoom in" past this level and see things at fine scales that you "could" attend to but then decide to pull back a bit?
Quoted from TimeBandit:Ok, I'm going to nominate that point as your closest moment of attention to detail.
We can get a sense already of your extreme care with fine detail, but where do you draw the line? Do you "zoom in" past this level and see things at fine scales that you "could" attend to but then decide to pull back a bit?
From a service provider perspective you almost have to pull back a little at times just so a project gets done in a reasonable time frame and a tolerable cost in perspective of the item.
We are dealing in Youssis not Picasso’s is the only difference sometimes. The work can be just as challenging as what museums go through restoring much more valuable items.
On a personal level I see everything. I have a severe OCD that knows few boundaries.
I embrace it and find creative uses for it. These things come naturally to me sometimes instantly other times by experience or study. I guess more than anything the real point is if I “miss” or don’t do something it is either because I am only human sometimes,I haven’t thought of it yet,it doesn’t make sense from a project timing or cost perspective or I purposely have already explored it previously and have seen little payoff in going further or doing it.
I'm not sold on the pops.
Seems monochromatic, but then I just might be brainwashed by the original colors?
You cant really see it too much after assembly though.
Maybe that's why the original had colorful caps?
(I'm colorblind so my opinion has no weight...)
Quoted from pinballinreno:I'm not sold on the pops.
Seems monochromatic, but then I just might be brainwashed by the original colors?
You cant really see it too much after assembly though.
Maybe that's why the original had colorful caps?
(I'm colorblind so my opinion has no weight...)
I understand there is always an element of risk with changes.
For me personally I have done TAFs so many ways so it is fun to try new things.
Sometimes it is a hit others are a miss but just putting everything back like the other 20,000 TAFs is boring so you learn to adapt to the different looks.
It always looks “wrong” at first because it isn’t what we are used to seeing but I like the simplicity of color matching if it is normally done with a bigger contrast from the factory and I like the contrast angle if it is normally more color matched from the factory if the goal is to change it up a little.
TAF normally has at least one yellow cap so it isn’t a big stretch to do five.
I'd rather see the pops in different colors instead of all the same. The green and yellow do look pretty good, though.
What about a mix of green, yellow, and clear caps, where clear/uncolored/white is the closest we have to "gravestone gray"?
Just throwing an idea out there that may or may not be a good one.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:TAF parts are out of the tumbler after running a few days.
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This is what was worth or needed to be saved and these are the results.
Before
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Afters
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For that single, long tumbler pass.. what's your preference for media? Walnut + additive? I've been a bit disappointed at times with my tumbler passes.. which I've followed up with the buffer wheel... but would love to skip that extra step as much as possible. I've heard corn media works better for polish, while walnut has more 'cut' or more coarse.
Those pieces look fantastic for just a tumbler pass..
Quoted from flynnibus: Those pieces look fantastic for just a tumbler pass..
He stated a few posts up it wasn't just a tumbler pass.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:I had to pretreat most of these by turning them with a drill in scotchbrite
I also believe he stated he used walnut but I'm too lazy too look. Got to the top of the thread and go search in thread and type in tumbler or walnut
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Little more laid back night shift tonight.
Hard to believe this equals one full hour of exercise but whatever!
[quoted image]
Beet with oreo flavor. Intetesting.
Quoted from lb1:Chris also uses military grade tumblers.
the large harbor freight tumbler is actually really nice (and a lot quieter than that small cheap one that they sell
https://www.harborfreight.com/18-lb-vibratory-bowl-with-liquid-drain-hose-96923.html
Quoted from j_m_:the large harbor freight tumbler is actually really nice (and a lot quieter than that small cheap one that they sell
https://www.harborfreight.com/18-lb-vibratory-bowl-with-liquid-drain-hose-96923.html
I have a Thumlers tumbler and absolutely love it. I went through 3 of the $40 arsenal (blue) ones on Amazon (extensive review posted) which were garbage.
Chemically cleaned the EBD cabinet and head.
I will start with the head first
There are normal breakthroughs from leveling.
image (resized).jpg
Corrections needed
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I would like to get a little better contrast between the brownish color and gold.
They run a little bit too similar in shade. image (resized).jpg
And above all else I need to find a good spot to include some red.
So this is just a roughed in version of where I think the red could come in.
I didn’t detail mask or paint it because I don’t want to waste time until I know for certain
CE3B2772-58BB-4082-8C4F-27C0E45A8735 (resized).jpeg
Unmasked and placed just to. Get an idea.
image (resized).jpg
It looks better to me but I think just like I needed some red on the head I will need to balance that out with more cream on the lower.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:I was thinking of the red background on the head because that is what is on the backglass [quoted image]
It is also what I have on the lower.
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I really like the bottom. I think it goes great with the backglass. But then the head has too much cream if that be the case.
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:I really like the bottom. I think it goes great with the backglass. But then the head has too much cream if that be the case.
Yes I actually have to start over on the head because the cream color is the base and then you stencil black first and brown we will call it over that so now that I have a better idea I have get that base of red down first.
The need keep a little of the cream makes it very complicated though because of the stencil order and changes but I will figure it out.
The lower is ok just needs some minor tweaks.
I think the only cream left on the head should be on the cowboy but it will take a good bit to get there.
TAF underside is starting to build up.
All targets and sling switches are new and then placed.
4A1D0660-DFD7-4347-B6F2-97E137DEC487 (resized).jpeg
Since I am needing all new sockets and changing the style of a few I place some parts that may conflict with them as I go to make sure nothing will touch.
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