Had to edit the video in the first link above. Didn’t realize that I hadn’t cut 5 minutes of down time out of it.
Video is corrected and link is fixed.
Took a few hours but I managed to get one side of the SOF cabinet detailed.
It’s doubtful I can do a mirror image of it on the other side but I have patterns and techniques dialed in so it can be consistent.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Darkened it up a bit and did both sides. Was able to make templates to get it consistent side to side.
Still need to figure out the head.
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Really like the look of the cracking.....the only suggestion I would make is to make the "Swords of Fury" lettering to match the translite. The way it was the same color blue it kinda gets lost, in a red/orange fade it would REALLY pop!!
Quoted from AUKraut:Really like the look of the cracking.....the only suggestion I would make is to make the "Swords of Fury" lettering to match the translite. The way it was the same color blue it kinda gets lost, in a red/orange fade it would REALLY pop!!
I actually have something like that planned for the second SOF cabinet. This first one will be as close to correct as I can make it. That’s usually how I do things the first time just to set the bar then alternatives from there.
The second one will be more complex but after working through this first one I am not so sure I will do the second one any time soon.
This is a tough paint job as is.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Heads done on the SOF.
Should be ready for the final clear.
Placed the head on there to check for consistency.
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Just marvel at the detail and craftsmanship.
Final clear is done on the SOF cabinet. It’s 60/40 gloss/matte.
Will gloss down as it dries.
Chris
Question. If you are clearing the entire cabinet a matte finish, are you worried about the top of the lower cabinet being in gloss? I noticed in the video that the top of the lower cabinet is still taped up. I understand that the head will be on it but am curious.
Mike
Quoted from packie1:Chris
Question. If you are clearing the entire cabinet a matte finish, are you worried about the top of the lower cabinet being in gloss? I noticed in the video that the top of the lower cabinet is still taped up. I understand that the head will be on it but am curious.
Mike
No concerns with that.
It’s mostly covered by the rails and completely shadowed by the head.
The main reason you wouldn’t want to open that up for the final clear is that you would get debris coming out of the neck.
SOF cabinet graduates the HEP Institute of Paint and No Technology .
Much more similar than I thought although I was never expecting a truly exact copy.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:SOF cabinet graduates the HEP Institute of Paint and No Technology .
Much more similar than I thought although I was never expecting a truly exact copy.
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I prefer the bolder crack version. Reads better from a distance and up close.
Quoted from PinMonk:I prefer the bolder crack version. Reads better from a distance and up close.
"Swords of FuN"
Mylar is pulled from the main and glue removed. Playfield is prepped for the first clear. This will be light to hopefully avoid insert bubbles but it’s a system 11 so no guarantees. image (resized).jpg
Shooter lane sanded up pretty well. image (resized).jpg
It will need lots of repaints. Nothing major but tons of little things all over.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Mylar is pulled from the main and glue removed. Playfield is prepped for the first clear. This will be light to hopefully avoid insert bubbles but it’s a system 11 so no guarantees. [quoted image]
Shooter lane sanded up pretty well. [quoted image]
It will need lots of repaints. Nothing major but tons of little things all over.
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Are you freehanding the text that's wiped out on "RELEASE" or are you making a stencil with your Silhouette and spraying it?
Quoted from PinMonk:Are you freehanding the text that's wiped out on "RELEASE" or are you making a stencil with your Silhouette and spraying it?
Definitely not freehanding it. My handwriting is very sloppy.
First clear is on the SOF playfield set.
It is sprayed pretty light the first time around to glue everything down and see how the inserts take the clear. Not much more than a clear primer at this point but it will give the foundation needed for the work to follow.
Screened the back of the SOF head. E9E20F59-907D-4022-831B-0554C00E5F15 (resized).jpeg
Tore the coin door down and prepped that along with some other cabinet parts. D232B5A2-321F-41C2-8508-1CB00ABB6048 (resized).jpeg
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All parts refinished appropriately.
Received my new SOF ramps from Freeplay40
They look great919CD3C8-1362-492F-A524-94669B897003 (resized).jpeg
SOF owner wants them black.
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Plastic etched and sprayed the backside. 8D854AEA-F398-4768-81C5-7C1104C3A4B3 (resized).jpeg
No problem.
Then painted all the black with the exception of the inserts.
I don’t want to paint those or get too far into the details around them until I know they are level.
Masking all that black was very tedious and time consuming. 8AE4CF08-1D81-4681-A4DC-34C9DDE09326 (resized).jpeg
Forgot to take a picture of the black sprayed. Unmasked here
Cleared them. Starting to level out.
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4FC684A1-8E7A-4EBD-8A4F-955A8DE3A126 (resized).jpeg
5E039670-ABE3-45E6-A62A-BE597424BF6A (resized).jpeg
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Quoted from High_End_Pins:Mylar removal etc video.
I was wondering how you were dealing with the bitterant because I recognized those cans and KNOW that brand uses bitterant - then I saw you had a mask.
I go out of my way to buy the brands that DO NOT add bitterant. I just refuse to buy the ones that do. They're terrible for freeze spray, and they leave residue on electronics if you use them as compressed air.
There is no dispute about the quality of this work. What really impresses me is the speed in which it is done.
This thread just astounds me.
Chris
Quoted from cosmokramer:Oh that rack of wire...
How about that rack of playfields?
Got the WW cabinet prepped and primed. BC536C78-A297-4C7A-876E-73B155E3F1F0 (resized).jpeg
A0D22822-FBEB-4352-99BE-7F892EE2FA62 (resized).jpeg
Worked through the SOF coil assemblies.
Back to the playfield.
Sanded
8DA8C8F9-003A-4D44-8E74-93CAAACC7D85 (resized).jpeg
Needed a little filler here. 991E262A-3751-43EE-9062-C65673520C7D (resized).jpeg
Cleaned masked off to do all/most of the red as well as the fades. Fighting ball swirl in some spots wear in others.
Red is sprayed then over masked to do the fades and transition into orange. 254C499C-A975-46FA-9BBD-1B24F4361CE1 (resized).jpeg
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Then unmasked. Will work on a few more colors in the coming days before the next clear application.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Worked through the SOF coil assemblies.
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Never seen an SOF before, that mech with the five coils is wild. Some weird drop target arrangement I guess?
Quoted from radium:Never seen an SOF before, that mech with the five coils is wild. Some weird drop target arrangement I guess?
Alien Poker and Laser Cue have a similar 5 coil reset setup (and even wilder, in that there's a bar that knocks them all down, then pops them up for memory.) Jungle Lord probably has similar.
It's like this is SoF because as you are playing, each drop you hit down has an individual timer to pop back up. It makes it harder to keep the ball up on that mini playfield because if you hit them all down too quickly, you can't prevent the ball from exiting via a trough (often cracked and broken) behind the target bank.
A lot of people re-wire the right 2 targets onto the left 3 on the power feed because they think it's "wrong" that the drops have 2 different power feeds. Bad things happen when you do this as the right 2 are A/C controlled coils and the other 3 are normal coils.... the game just never works right after that.
One of mine way back when I owned it had this issue from a major pintailer so even the supposed pros make mistakes. It took forever to find without schematics (that retailer is infamous for never giving the manuals with their sales).
Painting away on the SOF playfield.
Definitely don’t miss dealing with these original non diamond plated System 11 playfields.
Had to use insert decals. Was trying to avoid that but as predicted the original insert art was just too fragile and quickly started pulling up far too easily during the masking process.
Hopefully it cooperates from here forward but they are pretty unpredictable.
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