Addams Family, The
Bally, 1992
Airborne
Capcom, 1996
Alien (Heighway Pinball)
Heighway Pinball, 2017
Black Knight
Williams, 1980
Bram Stoker's Dracula
Williams, 1993
Centaur
Bally, 1981
Centigrade 37
Gottlieb, 1977
Champion Pub
Bally, 1998Could you please cover some of your array of metal polishing techniques? Not many have extra supplies of pristine pieces or will be able to send out to plate. Especially on this game, I think it would greatly benefit everyone how you make stuff look so good.
Thanks
Quoted from transprtr4u:You had mentioned how to regrain the ball guides but I think I missed the answer.
Most of us use some variation if a dremel or drill with a flapper wheel or preferred attachment.
Lamp harness is removed without sockets with the exception of just one that will serve as a centering point when mapping it back out on the new playfield. image (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpg
Now thoroughly cleaned and dried. You just can’t get one that was that dirty this clean with the sockets in the way.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgQuoted from PhilGreg:Man I'd binge watch the HEP show on Netflix...
Seriously yes!
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Never seen this one before
Think they chiseled out a recess for the bookcase bracket.
Probably trying to level it.
[quoted image]
Possibly chiseled by Pat himself - in which case the proper thing to do would to preserve this irreplaceable piece of pinball history 
Was up in HEPs necks of the woods this weekend and checked out the Woodcraft store. What a fantastic place. Found some really nice wood blanks for projects I have going.
Catching up some of what did not get documented yesterday on the TAF project.
Transformer was reworked. 6942418C-605E-47F4-8932-B114F94BCEC2 (resized).jpeg
3C9B89A0-32F1-4D17-ADB9-03E493FF54B0 (resized).jpeg
Refinished
24787E64-563A-4491-9BF5-54A727467AC9 (resized).jpegThe original topper has some potential
This is going to be a blacked out game so I prefer at the very least the tinted original topper.
The repros are too clear but look nice on other builds just not so much on the black ones. F8DE6DA6-157D-4BAE-B63A-BD010F370675 (resized).jpeg
Decals removed and adhesive is being lifted. 2CFB3C13-2D39-4958-A7EE-5051DB44A17F (resized).jpeg
44851A07-6193-4D0F-A8B1-4A2EFEB97B3C (resized).jpeg
The topper is washed 84B413C2-0599-4B49-9464-BAA6B4D1134D (resized).jpeg
0B11D896-E0BF-4BDD-9DF1-B958336A9430 (resized).jpeg
Then flame polished as well as possible. With particular attention paid to the face of it.
The back is a bit too flimsy to really heat up but it should show well and I have may do some type of refinishing on it to further darken it.
77D860CE-5849-4A4E-A5F6-E457026F0E98 (resized).jpegThe lower cabinet is now ground braided with upgraded. Leg plates and protectors E90AB757-7B01-470C-9094-4743019CB74C (resized).jpegC17DCFFA-0F9E-4012-A727-B91AFD2876B7 (resized).jpeg
Now up on four legs.
04A7AD7E-B44C-4BBA-8813-D19B7AA0839B (resized).jpeg4B99CDF1-8566-4BD1-B19B-6229666BFE29 (resized).jpegNext up for TAF is the power box.
I don’t see much worth reusing here F23D066E-4081-4262-9EC0-84B7A4F24C93 (resized).jpeg
DFB4B10B-C9F1-4505-8E3A-B25D57E3A19F (resized).jpeg
With it being a reimport originally it doesn’t have a service outlet and uses some slightly different components. 103CA50B-7958-485C-87DC-546EA44C488F (resized).jpeg
Another concern is the fit.
When using the upgraded leg plates on TAF and some other games the power box overlaps when aligned with the switch cut out in the floor. 5B5F411B-2650-47F8-890A-CE840E212592 (resized).jpeg
A76E79AD-F861-42EF-8A2E-B48D7DAD40D5 (resized).jpeg
The issue is easily corrected by relocating the switch in the power box chassis. This is the current position. 5E268558-2FFF-4CFA-91F0-97C924251375 (resized).jpeg
Now I can gather the parts to assemble.
A4065146-AF07-47D8-8D00-4D610A8C6B5E (resized).jpeg
Need the following.
Line filter 78F9C06E-1823-45B2-A827-7E4CC4BF7F22 (resized).jpeg
Service outletC4DF2FDA-D2EB-48B7-9584-5246981484E7 (resized).jpeg
Switch
6105E566-9CA1-4E7C-AEE0-FF82A43D09E6 (resized).jpeg
Thermistor and varistor303499A1-C2FD-4328-90F4-FFEEB5B534A5 (resized).jpeg
Fuse holderD25320D1-9799-42FD-A41C-6B21A4ED37CF (resized).jpeg
Strain relief11AA1CFD-A91C-4466-85F2-B822079A583B (resized).jpeg
That is everything laid out plus a new cord of course. AA63E738-F3E2-4376-8B68-6B273D01E0FE (resized).jpeg
All set so it is built up.
Service outlet 50B4F3DC-0937-46DD-8969-E2E69833FD97 (resized).jpeg
New switch gets direct soldered but with short protection. 5A1B1C7B-D166-4B71-AEB8-CDFEB4FC1E6C (resized).jpeg
Looks about right. 938FDCAA-375D-444E-9153-1C83057EBF7A (resized).jpeg
Ready to install. 9DF5694E-3345-4696-8518-AAE301A3343E (resized).jpeg
Now installed.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgNext for TAF is a coin door.
I happen to have an era correct used door I can rework. B9691944-2457-42E2-9883-ECB1666F6323 (resized).jpeg7C2B498B-BBED-4FE0-B32A-456D1A20865D (resized).jpeg
C67B475D-44D0-4025-8E51-F5038250E056 (resized).jpegFE2BE2DE-7F93-4A62-A1E3-78733CB5C868 (resized).jpegDoor torndown
Cleaned and water sanded 4F8EBF44-86F6-4F32-9143-7A99D34DEC26 (resized).jpeg
Then metal etched and textured to get a more factory like base on there to do the proper paint on. F2BF063C-EB60-4D70-B3F1-8B50F8582850 (resized).jpeg
Next I will reassemble the black parts and then do the final paint and spattering.
7E97A681-A41A-4CDF-BFBF-8F29C916CA71 (resized).jpeg8BADEB9F-E343-48AF-8328-B70B16EC8E8F (resized).jpegTAF coin door painted and specked.
Went just a little glossier than usually for this type of repaint because I want it to tie in with the gloss black trim when placed but I don’t want the door itself to be gloss black just a bit glossier than the more traditional flat black used.
Now before I get back to more laid back clean work I am going to start prepping the EBD cabinet for paint.
I have lamp panels.
The lower and the head.
Glass is in the head to triple check the fit and perhaps brainstorm a different color scheme than the normal one
I was given some direction by the owner but that was more mural style painting not what I do
What I do is work off the factory art and add touches or make different color schemes from that.
We will see where or if that goes anywhere but it needs to be sanded first.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgThe EBD cabinet was sanded and primed once more just to tighten the surface up a little more while I figure out the direction the paint work will go. 130A1270-97BF-4295-9956-BF4725D71084 (resized).jpeg
67709444-CE11-41F8-868F-85854368BA35 (resized).jpeg
The TAF backboard was also primed. 56D0821F-D489-4158-9630-8AFBFE5BE902 (resized).jpeg
The EBD lamp boards were painted since they are white this will let me get them out of the paint shop and out of harms way.
4120E119-958C-429C-8B8D-4141F891D8B6 (resized).jpegCoin door is built and placed on the TAF
Then the rails.
BE653293-3A6D-4BDE-8877-4B5A3DA9D2D9 (resized).jpeg1C575E81-D637-413C-B0FB-520E5474E214 (resized).jpeg
Head is built 4C2352FA-790C-41F8-B215-A56CB393B017 (resized).jpeg
Someone asked about metal polishing. It varies a lot based on the material and importance of the parts appearance.
Using these head hinge brackets as an example of a low importance part I will always them look nice enough for there location. Red scotchbrite and glitz metal polish.
FC95A50C-5BED-47E0-868F-6D15FB18E199 (resized).jpeg
Polished up quickly. AC2D12B8-5B2B-415D-A8E0-21AA1A0D0FD5 (resized).jpeg
Chris, a couple quick questions:
1) Do you add any wax or clear coat to metal parts after polishing to keep corrosion away? Or does the polish stay on there and act as a shield against corrosion?
2) At one time you were using round head screws with the metal leg protector brackets as they added more protection (spacing), and now I see you used flat head screws here. Any reason for this?
Thanks!
Todd
Quoted from TG:Chris, a couple quick questions:
1) Do you add any wax or clear coat to metal parts after polishing to keep corrosion away? Or does the polish stay on there and act as a shield against corrosion?
2) At one time you were using round head screws with the metal leg protector brackets as they added more protection (spacing), and now I see you used flat head screws here. Any reason for this?
Thanks!
Todd
This particular polish I use adds corrosion protection.
It is rated at 6 months for fresh water applications and 3 for salt water so in a home environment it should be adequate indefinitely. image (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpg
The newer style protectors on the right are a bit thicker than the earlier versions on the left so the other screws are not needed to keep the leg completely off the cabinet.
A9A15913-AE3C-4D8D-BB4D-6B7F69DD8A3F (resized).jpeg
image (resized).jpgHep threads are the best threads in pinside.....I love seeing the pictures and transformation....I can't imagine how much supplies of wire, screws, fasteners, plastics, cabinets etc. that Hep has to keep in inventory in order to keep the process moving...
Cheers,
C.
I’m interested in installing Molex connectors when I do my TZ rebuild and was wondering if you could give a little info on what you use or any tips or habits you’ve developed?
I notice a mix of 2 and 3 position molex connectors for solenoids. It’s tough to tell from the photos, but it looks like some 2 conductor solenoids use 3-position molex and some use just 2-position. If that’s right, is there any specific rhyme or reason to which is which?
And are you using 0.93 molex for solenoids and 0.62 for switches?
I really like the idea of this, and of being able to remove an assembly for maintenance, etc and thought I might as well try to benefit from experience or anything you’d come across. Thanks!
Sanded and painted the TAF backboard 1BD7D1AD-AF6C-4A6F-832B-A1D59CF88271 (resized).jpeg
While it dried I walked up to the church with my lovely wife and we voted.
E6D96E9D-D5F5-4249-835A-0C933163511C (resized).jpeg
44D41D7A-5A0A-490A-B258-0837FA114997 (resized).jpeg
3ED11EE4-9F6C-40FC-8775-D94D93D165D1 (resized).jpeg
When I got back it was nice and dry.
990186BD-835F-4776-B904-706B5A6DAAE0 (resized).jpegBut I am converting an LE and I want to bridge the gap between the classic and the LE color scheme so I am working off the backglass color scheme and the LE apron which is black red and gold.
This is actually 4 colors on the front.
Black,red ,med brown and gold.
The brown will be needed for the cowboy on the backbox.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgWanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
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St Joseph, IL
Edmonton, AB
