Addams Family, The
Bally, 1992
Airborne
Capcom, 1996
Alien (Heighway Pinball)
Heighway Pinball, 2017
Black Knight
Williams, 1980
Bram Stoker's Dracula
Williams, 1993
Centaur
Bally, 1981
Centigrade 37
Gottlieb, 1977
Champion Pub
Bally, 1998TOTAN and TZ cabinets are primed.
I will try to get the ES and STTNG caught up with them tomorrow.
This time of the year it’s tough to mix enough primer to cover all at once without it starting to skim over.
8B0293BC-061D-4793-BE05-84191980C542 (resized).jpegA25F550B-9741-40F9-9137-6D9B654F7EDA (resized).jpegWorking through the TOTAN parts.
I got a new ramp set and was pretty shocked/disappointed with how rough one of them was.
It looked like it was cut out with a axe. 6CD3895F-4C60-4D70-A816-560E1B1DC2AD (resized).jpeg
The factory ramp is smooth along the edges. 84FC8B12-F935-4B31-A06E-4FCC8670921E (resized).jpeg
This ramp is rough as hell. 137323F3-27CA-47CE-BF0C-45187A0D9814 (resized).jpeg
I get the coarser wet sanding paper out and water sand it smooth and straight as possible.
C59F4DBD-76AC-4E0A-8A05-97E25CEB5BD2 (resized).jpeg
Better. Often new parts are not what they should be and you have to work with them. D209BF15-2873-435F-AE06-55CD46890663 (resized).jpeg
The other ramps were fine.
I rebuilt the new swirl ramp and made a new extended harness. B58C386B-5D34-4302-90F2-CD5E6E86C6E2 (resized).jpegFB24794C-1F3F-4F02-8AC9-5F523BD86699 (resized).jpeg
I also built up a new brass skill shot bracket and the plastic set. D68101FF-CB92-4D59-86A7-2CFFF7F5067B (resized).jpegB0D7052C-0D21-4F08-8E49-86BAF4ACE73E (resized).jpeg
The TOTAN cabinet and associated parts have dried to its appropriate gloss and it is ready to screen then prep for decals. 4B42B4CF-989A-412C-ADA7-F2F0C689EBD9 (resized).jpeg524C3E9E-6337-4682-BDAB-52893FA6F520 (resized).jpeg6092277E-D4E1-40D8-9A5C-3CB7AEB34D51 (resized).jpeg
Head screened. 47D02AE1-B05D-4787-9995-340EC90D92D7 (resized).jpeg48D6F387-972D-4445-A469-C7B11D23B2CA (resized).jpegEEEBC195-A5AD-403F-97A5-AEDEF220D358 (resized).jpeg
Prepped to decal.
981D3DCA-776D-4431-A9B6-1383D52BEBE3 (resized).jpegQuoted from High_End_Pins:Mystic cabinet is coming together.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Because I'm a dork, if I ever had you do a game like Mystic, I'd ask if you could pound the serial number into the cab like the factory did. Is that something you've ever done/could do?
TOTAN lower is decaled.
I will finish the edges up and move on to the head.
Corner alignment is so important on this title.
It’s usually not possible from top to bottom on most decal offerings so the most important ones are are the top four black lines
The white lines on the sides are thinner than the front. I have double checked that with the factory and it is correct but something to keep an eye on. After that you are under the legs and safe.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgQuoted from aobrien5:Because I'm a dork, if I ever had you do a game like Mystic, I'd ask if you could pound the serial number into the cab like the factory did. Is that something you've ever done/could do?
I have been asked about it before and it’s not something I can do right now or would put my efforts and resources into being able to do unless there was a huge demand.
I imagine it would take some type of stamping die. That would need to be changed to suit each title and serial number.
Things like that are very hard to source and figure out on a small scale but I am certain were easy back in the day for a huge factory.
Personally. I take a lot of pride in how straight and well finished my cabinets are and I would see it as a bit of an eyesore but I absolutely understand and appreciate the purist nature and authenticity of it.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:TOTAN lower is decaled.
I will finish the edges up and move on to the head.
Corner alignment is so important on this title.
It’s usually not possible from top to bottom on most decal offerings so the most important ones are are the top four black lines
The white lines on the sides are thinner than the front. I have double checked that with the factory and it is correct but something to keep an eye on. After that you are under the legs and safe.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
You accomplished more today than I will get done in the next week! Not sure how you do it but it’s fun to watch it all come together.
Got the TOTAN lower edges finished.
These take a little more effort than most edges to get a nice match and flowing corners.
There is yellow,black,white,red dots,black dots. It’s a process.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgI don't want to cross-thread too much, but wanted to say I wouldn't give the guy the time of day if I were you. You seem like a fairly humble guy but you must also be superlatively confident in your skillset (as you should be), so I'm sure it's a little hard to hold your tongue at times with all the crap that must come your way. It's only natural for anyone to respond when they are criticized by a know-nothing blowhard, but just know that while it's obviously your prerogative to address such criticisms, you have hundreds of us who are more than happy to speak up for you and attest to your proven results over the past several years.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:I don't want to cross-thread too much, but wanted to say I wouldn't give the guy the time of day if I were you. You seem like a fairly humble guy but you must also be superlatively confident in your skillset (as you should be), so I'm sure it's a little hard to hold your tongue at times with all the crap that must come your way. It's only natural for anyone to respond when they are criticized by a know-nothing blowhard, but just know that while it's obviously your prerogative to address such criticisms, you have hundreds of us who will more than happily speak up for you and attest to your proven results over the past several years.
No worries there.
Some fires are not worth fighting because the contents have no value so it’s best to let them burn themselves out.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:No worries there.
Some fires are not worth fighting because the contents have no value so it’s best to let them burn themselves out.
Gee Chris, I dunno... maybe the guy had a point and color matching and repairing a PF is out of your "skill set"
I am glad you chimed in... that whole thing was worth a few laughs. Some people.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:I have been asked about it before and it’s not something I can do right now or would put my efforts and resources into being able to do unless there was a huge demand.
I imagine it would take some type of stamping die. That would need to be changed to suit each title and serial number.
Things like that are very hard to source and figure out on a small scale but I am certain were easy back in the day for a huge factory.
Personally. I take a lot of pride in how straight and well finished my cabinets are and I would see it as a bit of an eyesore but I absolutely understand and appreciate the purist nature and authenticity of it.
I did it on an EM cabinet -- basically repunching the existing numbers that had been sanded shallow. The number punch set I bought was the exact same size & font as on the cabinet from 1970! No incentive to change I guess.
Quoted from dr_nybble:I did it on an EM cabinet -- basically repunching the existing numbers that had been sanded shallow. The number punch set I bought was the exact same size & font as on the cabinet from 1970! No incentive to change I guess.
The same one you repainted the entire playfield of?You are a very resourceful man Dr Nybble .
TOTAN cabinet is up on legs. image (resized).jpg
I am finally off mine. Tasty beer in hand. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
Made some good progress on the TOTAN.
Ready to flip.
D9BD1A91-DBE5-49E5-BF3E-6E1DEB553019 (resized).jpeg13E323EE-EB5E-4A8E-AF8B-801BF7717BA4 (resized).jpegEFF57DD8-B05B-4FB8-8EC4-99A33BEC413D (resized).jpeg437D84C1-3BB2-4438-A789-A6E0B4F2C570 (resized).jpegUnderside rebuild will need to be extremely thorough as usual.
034A3AB2-F076-41EA-BA51-09CB0E8B5CBB (resized).jpeg
There just isn’t a lot left behind worth reusing.
8A98BE3F-AB9C-432B-998F-404B0BA8B7CD (resized).jpeg
Going to go with all new sockets switches etc. C9DA78DE-2E17-4CD5-A8DC-E1B5485B28B6 (resized).jpeg
Got all that mapped out pretty well.
1431D8CD-07A6-4537-9155-3032C5580ADE (resized).jpeg887B2025-9AC1-4125-9016-C0C8874093CE (resized).jpegD612C449-DF4B-462E-AA7F-D4357C7F5A14 (resized).jpeg62FA7CB9-1FCE-4F66-82FF-D193C2F1B04D (resized).jpeg7DC3AE0E-5538-498A-8D0C-A45F101BD238 (resized).jpeg84E9DAC6-BECA-45C0-99A4-3FC00BD61194 (resized).jpeg
The Mystic is picking up steam once again. I got my needed parts and can proceed.
I realize the green post may initially look like a strange choice but I think it will work well once the plastics are placed.
75CCA3BD-718A-4448-B671-B629AF81F1A1 (resized).jpegCAE9B9D7-033F-4024-AEB0-450056CC3699 (resized).jpeg3E38A871-692F-4853-87AC-19511038E11E (resized).jpeg667566EA-1EB7-4C9F-88DC-FE98D3613A74 (resized).jpeg6A7AC5F8-0692-4478-8210-17225D9831DA (resized).jpegQuoted from High_End_Pins:Underside rebuild will need to be extremely thorough as usual
None of us would expect anything less 
Quoted from ToucanF16:Green posts are looking like the right choice!
Thanks I tried pretty much everything else.
Started building up the underside.
When I did the Red Centaur I realized how good the gameplay felt with the modernization and how easy it was to dial in. Now when I am doing these I can’t see doing it any other way unless told not to of course. I know there are some purist out there. I can deal with the traditional builds just fine but outside of that getting rid of the leaf blade switches and linear slingshots really tightens things up and is less prone to needed extra attention later.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgTOTAN switches are wired. That was an all day job.
Lamps are next.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgQuoted from High_End_Pins:Thanks I tried pretty much everything else.
Started building up the underside.
When I did the Red Centaur I realized how good the gameplay felt with the modernization and how easy it was to dial in. Now when I am doing these I can’t see doing it any other way unless told not to of course. I know there are some purist out there. I can deal with the traditional builds just fine but outside of that getting rid of the leaf blade switches and linear slingshots really tightens things up and is less prone to needed extra attention later. [quoted image][quoted image]
Most importantly upgrading the linear flippers!
I consider these to be linear slingshots. I just call them that because they came in right around the same time as the linear flippers. image (resized).jpg
They tend to just push the ball around a little after a lot of travel.
I much prefer the clickty clack and striking of the more traditional slingshot set up.
On a conversion these assemblies are nice because they are everything you need in one package. You may need to make slight adjustments for fit but nothing much.
Again I don’t mind doing purist builds but if left to my devices I am going to make what I believe are the best or better choices with gameplay and maintenance in mind.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:I consider these to be linear slingshots. I just call them that because they came in right around the same time as the linear flippers. [quoted image]
They tend to just push the ball around a little after a lot of travel.
I much prefer the clickty clack and striking of the more traditional slingshot set up.
On a conversion these assemblies are nice because they are everything you need in one package. You may need to make slight adjustments for fit but nothing much.
Again I don’t mind doing purist builds but if left to my devices I am going to make what I believe are the best or better choices with gameplay and maintenance in mind.
[quoted image]
Makes sense (especially with the photos as illustrations). Thanks for taking the time to explain!
Quoted from High_End_Pins:I consider these to be linear slingshots. I just call them that because they came in right around the same time as the linear flippers. [quoted image]
They tend to just push the ball around a little after a lot of travel.
I much prefer the clickty clack and striking of the more traditional slingshot set up.
On a conversion these assemblies are nice because they are everything you need in one package. You may need to make slight adjustments for fit but nothing much.
Again I don’t mind doing purist builds but if left to my devices I am going to make what I believe are the best or better choices with gameplay and maintenance in mind.
[quoted image]
Yeah, I'd always take the tech upgrade. It's like leaving drum brakes on a classic car when rebuilding it. Disc brakes all the way. Why suffer with crappy old tech when the new tech gives better performance and you basically don't see the upgrade anyway, just enjoy the effects?
I sanded and started painting the ES 1 sample game cabinet.
Based in blue.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgQuoted from High_End_Pins:On a conversion these assemblies are nice because they are everything you need in one package. You may need to make slight adjustments for fit but nothing much.
What assemblies are those? They are nice because they're one piece.... no alignment fit issues! I'm in the middle of a mystic swap and would do this upgrade in a heartbeat as the linear slings are poor in action.
Quoted from slochar:What assemblies are those? They are nice because they're one piece.... no alignment fit issues! I'm in the middle of a mystic swap and would do this upgrade in a heartbeat as the linear slings are poor in action.
my guess is they're the slings used on Data East games.
Sample ES cabinets is cleared. This will be a pretty technical paint job even beyond the last ES I did because of the color way and combinations on the sample are more involved.
For that reason I am just getting it in its base color and will start working from there
51D81C9C-0A83-4D72-8D83-BC9DCE9F95FF (resized).jpeg554E2493-8EBB-4B55-8EE6-152ADD27EBD6 (resized).jpeg5B449003-F7C6-4BF4-ABE0-2A268560329E (resized).jpeg94D5C8A1-B14C-47C2-BCDA-F02E271034A4 (resized).jpegFE59D345-F224-45EB-B505-80A19710B2D0 (resized).jpegThe ES 1 playfield is cleared as well.
A78C0AAF-F4E9-4CF8-B7FA-08143360F70F (resized).jpeg9A338B4F-DE0F-4CB7-B192-D750C8EAA45E (resized).jpegA28BA13A-55CD-459D-9A4D-716AB4B4A750 (resized).jpegQuoted from slochar:What assemblies are those? They are nice because they're one piece.... no alignment fit issues! I'm in the middle of a mystic swap and would do this upgrade in a heartbeat as the linear slings are poor in action.
I think these are listed on Pinballlife as Spooky slingshot assemblies or something like that.
They fit right on some playfields. Others you may need to spread the switches a little farther apart. That is done with pliers.
The toughest part is getting them in a position that is ideal and symmetrical side to side since you will be flying blind there.
Took a couple days but I worked through the TOTAN lamp harness.
All new sockets color correct wiring. I eliminated all daisy chains and sloppy wiring. AF404AC7-E3AA-4E1B-A9EC-1A482230CEC2 (resized).jpegF311A2F6-3199-442E-8B40-C0D63D3975CA (resized).jpegEE9373A0-CCA4-4ACF-A391-915631082549 (resized).jpeg106A4BC7-3EA6-46A5-BEF6-16803241870B (resized).jpeg
It really helps take the trash out of the harness and simplify it. 991AACC4-1D2F-4668-97FD-E52A04CE997A (resized).jpeg
I also installed a new adjustable magnet bracket and core because the fixed ones never seem to fit quite right and that promotes wear. D373D8B4-100E-4D3F-9F4C-9EDEFAA3AABF (resized).jpeg
Now I just have the solenoid harness the deal with which should be easier although there are many flasher sockets to rewire.
17D4584F-84EB-479F-B5D3-62549A3BA70E (resized).jpeg23219795-6FD4-4104-8A98-BD25B748496A (resized).jpeg
Quoted from High_End_Pins:The ES 1 playfield is cleared as well.
That looks easy. After all, there's no pigment - ha!
Seriously, beautiful work as always.
Quoted from jgentry:C37 arrived home last night. The only thing as impressive as HEP's restores is his prep for shipping. Thanks Chris.
[quoted image]
That thing belongs in the Smithsonian! You're very lucky to have it!
Quoted from NYP:That thing belongs in the Smithsonian! You're very lucky to have it!
I wouldn't be surprised if it's not chugging along 30 years from now when most of the current nib games have completely fallen apart.
Quoted from jgentry:C37 arrived home last night. The only thing as impressive as HEP's restores is his prep for shipping. Thanks Chris.
[quoted image]
Nice addition to the collection man. Looks amazing!
Quoted from NYP:That thing belongs in the Smithsonian! You're very lucky to have it!
I wouldn't call it 'luck', unless he won the lottery for the money to be able to afford it. heh.
Quoted from jgentry:C37 arrived home last night. The only thing as impressive as HEP's restores is his prep for shipping. Thanks Chris.
[quoted image]
Thank you Joesph! Looks even better over there than it did here.
Did it work properly after set up or did it need any adjustments?
That’s something that always makes me nervous about EMs.
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Matthews, NC
Ottawa, ON
Oldebroek