Quoted from High_End_Pins:Waiting out the last bit of sunlight on this side.
Close as I come to a Halloween costume these days.
Dressed up as an old guy drinking beer.
[quoted image]
Nailed it!
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Waiting out the last bit of sunlight on this side.
Close as I come to a Halloween costume these days.
Dressed up as an old guy drinking beer.
[quoted image]
Nailed it!
Quoted from jaytrem:If you do it I would suggest always sliding in some poster paper when raising and lowering. Been doing that with my rct since I put in the art blades and my Comet since it seems to have some scraping issues in the past.
Im using theses in my Houdini that only has 3/32" clearance between the PF and the side art.
https://www.pinballlife.com/interior-cabinet-protector-blade-set.html
I use them on all my games now with perfect results.
Lamp panel is reworked. CF8A994C-405F-41D3-BF6E-7C6158618E85 (resized).jpeg
FC789F69-156C-4050-B140-9C6639B501B0 (resized).jpeg
Refinished metal polished etc. 66B45152-14C1-488E-BF01-199B19B544D4 (resized).jpeg
39F77FB3-1B0D-4F2B-A634-1D95E9932D70 (resized).jpeg
BE5D74CF-7AB6-4D52-A722-36C2412C8D8C (resized).jpeg
Quoted from pinballinreno:Im using theses in my Houdini that only has 3/32" clearance between the PF and the side art.
https://www.pinballlife.com/interior-cabinet-protector-blade-set.html
I use them on all my games now with perfect results.
I was going to post that link. I use them too and they are great!
Boards are worked through.
The ones I have pre-serviced swaps for are set aside. B7F40140-E02F-4045-8F3A-D1E155DFD94C (resized).jpeg
The ones I don’t I work through if it is within my skill set.
This extra Flipper board is so I can handle easily enough.It May work fine but looks rough so I will rework that. 9D16A3B5-11DD-47E8-8701-B42A7643779E (resized).jpeg
DE091CC5-DF94-4DE5-AD05-4B637E737694 (resized).jpeg
New cleaner bridge rectifier install.
D04A2026-DD55-4D9B-8A33-A1E5BA8083CE (resized).jpeg
5715F21D-5592-4409-AF7E-73510D259B5F (resized).jpeg
F410B88B-5596-42C8-B1B0-EFF7B04ECDB2 (resized).jpeg
Spare nickel plated bookcase bracket. 2F0B6E61-8BFA-4D41-9DF4-6E9660B96256 (resized).jpeg
Torndown. 258697F6-4CAA-406D-823C-EEB09D36E480 (resized).jpeg
Bracket rebuilt
Motor rewired with thicker gauge 17DB55BD-D38D-4808-8324-AA91018F0D93 (resized).jpeg
New switches and harness. 8B2AB824-43C5-4C78-A4FC-3B5399EC95FF (resized).jpeg
AD680116-42F1-4E2E-9A5A-9C5AC9E7A391 (resized).jpeg
Transmitter optos replaced they are the most common failure point. BA9F8885-D920-4AC1-9F45-9CDA16EA71FC (resized).jpeg
1D5939EE-FA14-42DD-8B75-723692D6DD6C (resized).jpeg
Bookcase will be left at that stage for now as I await a new base and decal.
Thing hand rebuild. A4C075B1-8664-4B63-8438-8437237CEC1C (resized).jpeg
Fragile wires,tape the normal stuff. 4D317988-9DF8-4361-8478-56B5745F61A3 (resized).jpeg
49B68B66-0AA4-4B9A-8F56-C1CD3E478FC4 (resized).jpeg
Motor and gearbox cleaned. 8BB06462-9538-41C0-9BB1-1D9251279F6C (resized).jpeg
Magnet coil rewired with color correct wire 15E91486-BD7B-4DD2-8BA6-DF4DDAB92BB0 (resized).jpeg
Motor rewired thicker gauge etc. D7C302E7-04FB-4B86-BB65-9B78D2E7ED62 (resized).jpeg
Rebuilt with protection.
B972EB80-8D99-44CC-901B-73EB337A8C4B (resized).jpeg01D3C503-2EF6-4275-BE56-5FB8AAE2B712 (resized).jpeg6B01FBB8-F984-4001-A391-E2FA92997E36 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Yeah the thought of that and no proper silverball target is what haunts me this Halloween.
You could drill a hole in a real pinball, then remove a slice to make a life time target face.
JWI_17TSB2 (resized).jpg46054717-the-bursting-of-the-half-ball-bearing-because-of-the-poor-quality-of-the-bearing-there-was-a-strong- (resized).jpg
Quoted from vid1900:You could drill a hole in a real pinball, then remove a slice to make a life time target face.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Thought about doing something like that.
Could probably take the target face and a real ball to a machine shop and have it done nice and clean.
Tommy left today.
Guy was floored by it didn’t even notice or say a word about the target so I guess at the very least I have some time.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Thought about doing something like that.
Could probably take the target face and a real ball to a machine shop and have it done nice and clean.
Get a bunch made.
If people are paying $50 for a plastic one that will chip in a few days, everyone would order a real metal one.
Would look great on SBM too
Mid day break
Let the solenoid harness soak. It is really dirty!
10A2D07D-5A98-43FF-8172-BF4081885FD0 (resized).jpeg
F65D9B0C-7C58-49A5-B197-560F48D2CF74 (resized).jpeg
Quick workout in the very same room. Mixture of strength and conditioning today. When you are on the assault bike you can’t wait to get off when you are doing the slam ball you can’t wait to get back on the damn bike 691BBF18-58A5-4F28-AA7B-725B36F68960 (resized).jpeg
CE1B8469-0159-4E90-8B60-B078ABAEB9D9 (resized).jpeg
Lunch.
Still working through my last shipment of king salmon.
FE410EAA-147E-467C-8E77-050EB3A5D08B (resized).jpeg
Latest beer shipment has arrived.
2C67959D-A614-411F-A94D-486963364F89 (resized).jpeg
Solenoid harness is done. image (resized).jpg
Now I will work through some of the removed coil assemblies.
These are rough.
Zip tied together
image (resized).jpg
Missing screws.
image (resized).jpg
Heavy corrosion.
image (resized).jpg
That’s just the thing eject coil
Faded or wiped out wrappers. image (resized).jpg
Duct taped together
image (resized).jpg
Turned the wrong way.
image (resized).jpg
Lots of things to improve.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:TAF cabinet edges finished.
Will paint them next.
Painted by hand or what? Looks very clean!!
Quoted from brenna98:Painted by hand or what? Looks very clean!!
Those were masked and painted with the paint used on the cabinet but an oil based paint pen works well too.
Coils removed so far are done.
Some had the wrong plungers. 17F57E29-0AD9-45FA-83E9-D5B8CA2DAECA (resized).jpeg
On the Cabinet knocker I made an insulator and turned the coil in a better position. Marked the centering and then drilled it 4C109E3D-8491-4B8E-8969-26B2114AFE20 (resized).jpeg
3F136FD6-7DCA-48FA-B61F-2488BFB3CF1A (resized).jpeg
08D83CBE-DDBC-4492-86B6-3E6C42AA7C09 (resized).jpeg
Rewired with protection. EECEFBF5-4738-45CB-A1AF-8DFC43B03D89 (resized).jpeg05C90076-0FAC-42A8-B32A-F22D37026099 (resized).jpeg
These are done.
388D20B5-1272-4C56-A5A6-6E3762AD975B (resized).jpegC116B3B1-F293-4975-B736-2B2098ACC59D (resized).jpegE9F22601-3020-4323-8C6B-3C0AB7E82A9F (resized).jpegQuoted from High_End_Pins:Cabinet edges finished.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Sorry I missed it but how do you finsh the edges?
Quoted from mollyspub:Sorry I missed it but how do you finsh the edges?
He sands them very carefully and with expertise that only much experience brings.
Love me some Zebulon. They are one of my favorite breweries in the Asheville area. Also, can't beat Prairie.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Mid day break
Let the solenoid harness soak. It is really dirty!
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Quick workout in the very same room. Mixture of strength and conditioning today. When you are on the assault bike you can’t wait to get off when you are doing the slam ball you can’t wait to get back on the damn bike [quoted image]
[quoted image]
Lunch.
Still working through my last shipment of king salmon.
[quoted image]
Latest beer shipment has arrived.
[quoted image]
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Mid day break
Let the solenoid harness soak. It is really dirty!
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Quick workout in the very same room. Mixture of strength and conditioning today. When you are on the assault bike you can’t wait to get off when you are doing the slam ball you can’t wait to get back on the damn bike [quoted image]
[quoted image]
Lunch.
Still working through my last shipment of king salmon.
[quoted image]
Latest beer shipment has arrived.
[quoted image]
Quoted from spinal:Chris, I was wondering... do you date each of your pins or just brand with HEP?
I brand them mostly.
The branding gets moved around a little year to year and some things improved so I can generally tell the year by looking at the restore or pictures.
My communication with the owners helps me keep track of the dates as well.
Jet bumpers are done.
TAF is a pretty time consuming game mechanically.
Nothing overly complex about it but there is just a lot there.
Two motor and gearbox assemblies,three magnets,,three scoops,four flippers and five jet bumpers it means that extra time and materials are needed to really go through everything.
These jets were beat. D91EED3E-E98F-4BFB-BCCA-E91D922D84F4 (resized).jpeg
All armatures were broken. 0362B081-AA35-437F-B45C-80FE933F18AE (resized).jpegCD8C8F65-3AD2-4ECC-8212-1FFE1399D550 (resized).jpeg
Wrong springs etc. A638E70D-420E-432F-A82C-7BA12CF6F2AC (resized).jpeg
Rebuilt. New coils were needed as well a few were seized. All wired color correct.
0760008F-DA15-4B0D-B7CD-E2271E38445A (resized).jpeg2EDDD060-18EF-4525-B671-1EFC308DE923 (resized).jpeg4A178B3C-24EC-43A0-80F2-3B6CC6E71A83 (resized).jpegAny place to find the blue pad the knocker hits?
I can't find it anywhere and need a replacement. Also, how do you affix that pad?
Quoted from Whysnow:Any place to find the blue pad the knocker hits?
I can't find it anywhere and need a replacement. Also, how do you affix that pad?
https://www.pinballlife.com/1-square-blue-rubber-pad-with-adhesive-backing.html
Quoted from High_End_Pins:I brand them mostly.
The branding gets moved around a little year to year and some things improved so I can generally tell the year by looking at the restore or pictures.
My communication with the owners helps me keep track of the dates as well.
As an artist, dating might be something to consider because there are an increasingly number of them in the market and this makes it easier for collectors to track. Also, your techniques have surely changed over the years and this would help collectors guage differences. Just a thought out of respect for your work.
Flippers are next. Looks like newer coils so that is a plus
9485FA25-A359-4006-8B49-C710D66F4E33 (resized).jpeg
Wrong bracket 4CAEAAAC-D455-4529-9378-2B2E90401F80 (resized).jpeg
Rust and corrosion
00660064-871D-49D5-B7CC-9702117780ED (resized).jpeg
9AC42F8F-99A9-4EE0-9786-B98793AC35B0 (resized).jpeg
Newly built up assemblies using just a couple things from the old.
454F55EA-35E4-448D-84F8-8C6BD24C3BAA (resized).jpeg
Then wired color correct. 035ECA6E-5A4F-4804-A388-41EB17E2F7AB (resized).jpeg
Now finished on plugs
666CCECC-2CD7-4654-926E-F5B92FE452E3 (resized).jpegD01EF869-FEAE-443D-BD3C-F49197D60F21 (resized).jpegEAD686E9-D6FC-46E2-8E08-93E50D2CE2D8 (resized).jpegI am going to start gearing up for one of the upcoming EBD builds by fitting and prepping the cabinet.
These were built locally and look great.
I am really nervous when I give one of these guys this era cabinet.
The heads and wedged necks are a nightmare.
So far the failure rate has been higher than the successs rate so I ask for a few things on the first run.
First. Do not install the playfield runners.
Just cut them and I will place them. image (resized).jpg
The reason for that leads to the next request. I want a thicker floor. image (resized).jpg
With the floor being thicker if they were to measure and place the playfield runners off the floor it would then be a quarter inch to high which could lead to all kinds of problems you won’t see or realize until you place the playfield,lockbar or glass.
Next is the head.
I have had nothing but nightmares having these built with the exception of my old local cabinet builder that retired a couple years ago.
These heads are more complex than they seem.
The reason is that the frame is both built to be cosmetic and functional at the same time.
The position of the lock hole is crucial. It can be the difference in the locking arm fitting and working or not. image (resized).jpg
Another crucial detail is the proper gap for the backglass.a little too big is ok but too tight is a disaster.
The lower trim is just a keeper and resting point.
image (resized).jpg
The upper is what is least forgiving. It impacts the way you can lift the glass in and out and also how the lock arm operates.
For this reason on a first time trial I also ask it to be made but not attached.
Cabinet,head and two lamp panels are primed
These look phenomenal even in primer
Sharp corners.
All holes located
Correct notches for the coin door frame.
Natural and correct looking reveal for the upper backbox.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Will also be using the Pinsound board by request. It will be the third time I do that and have to admit the last two times I found it buggy. Hopefully this one goes better.
If by buggy you are referring to random delayed audio cues, they are caused by the read speed of the usb flash drive in use. The ones the boards come with are fine for maybe some stock audio samples; but, the larger and higher quality custom cues are usually much bigger in size and that causes the random delays as the board is calling up the file.
If you encounter this pick up a higher speed usb 3.0 drive.
I swapped my games over to these - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SNLGXE0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
They are the fastest on the market and my random delays are virtually all eliminated in even the largest custom mixes.
The very occasional sound delay is defiantly worth it for the ability to massively supercharge the audio. For any film or music based pin using the original sounds makes a world of difference. The mix I made for SWDE makes that machine really seem modern.
By the way, I’ve often wondered if for some of the more common games you’ve restored (AF, MM, AFM, etc) do you think you could do most of the work from memory if you lost your pics and notes.
Quoted from jedimastermatt:If by buggy you are referring to random delayed audio cues, they are caused by the read speed of the usb flash drive in use. The ones the boards come with are fine for maybe some stock audio samples; but, the larger and higher quality custom cues are usually much bigger in size and that causes the random delays as the board is calling up the file.
If you encounter this pick up a higher speed usb 3.0 drive.
I swapped my games over to these - amazon.com link »
They are the fastest on the market and my random delays are virtually all eliminated in even the largest custom mixes.
The very occasional sound delay is defiantly worth it for the ability to massively supercharge the audio. For any film or music based pin using the original sounds makes a world of difference. The mix I made for SWDE makes that machine really seem modern.
By the way, I’ve often wondered if for some of the more common games you’ve restored (AF, MM, AFM, etc) do you think you could do most of the work from memory if you lost your pics and notes.
Thanks I will try that. Is the 128 version adequate?
Quoted from jedimastermatt:If by buggy you are referring to random delayed audio cues, they are caused by the read speed of the usb flash drive in use. The ones the boards come with are fine for maybe some stock audio samples; but, the larger and higher quality custom cues are usually much bigger in size and that causes the random delays as the board is calling up the file.
If you encounter this pick up a higher speed usb 3.0 drive.
I swapped my games over to these - amazon.com link »
They are the fastest on the market and my random delays are virtually all eliminated in even the largest custom mixes.
The very occasional sound delay is defiantly worth it for the ability to massively supercharge the audio. For any film or music based pin using the original sounds makes a world of difference. The mix I made for SWDE makes that machine really seem modern.
By the way, I’ve often wondered if for some of the more common games you’ve restored (AF, MM, AFM, etc) do you think you could do most of the work from memory if you lost your pics and notes.
On the build off memory.
Yes without a doubt and happens often on the TZ,IJ,TAF etc builds. Rarely need to reference those. It is the one and two or three if’s that I find myself combining pictures and manuals to work through.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Thanks I will try that. Is the 128 version adequate?
It should be plenty. It really just depends on the size of the mix and the number of them you want per game.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Mid day break
Let the solenoid harness soak. It is really dirty!
Chris,
What do you soak the harness in to clean it? I’m amazed that doesn’t damage the wiring.
Quoted from TheJerol:Chris,
What do you soak the harness in to clean it? I’m amazed that doesn’t damage the wiring.
Soaks in a non corrosive orange based cleaner.
The key is that it must be non corrosive and it must be blown dry after rinsing.
Ready to get the playfield assembly out of the TAF cabinet F78903ED-CD8E-4F2E-88D2-EAB59D4418E0 (resized).jpeg
Apron is removed it has damaged art and surface rust. 6978F510-E95E-4F57-8CCF-ED07BCE6DA12 (resized).jpeg
1C0DD9A4-DF7D-44F4-90C4-C0FCF85E1FA8 (resized).jpeg
Apron will need to be painted and decaled. There is the possibility of a new apron coming out but it won’t be soon enough for this project so it is cleaned and sanded for repaint.
3B639616-F50C-4191-A9F8-0D304536C455 (resized).jpegThis game has some of the worst metal conditions
Lots of rust and corrosion are present on every possible part
It makes for a more challenging project because a tumbler won’t touch this issues and nickel plating every single piece of hardware is not practical because of threading and keeping up with it all through the process.
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