Addams Family, The
Bally, 1992
Airborne
Capcom, 1996
Alien (Heighway Pinball)
Heighway Pinball, 2017
Black Knight
Williams, 1980
Bram Stoker's Dracula
Williams, 1993
Centaur
Bally, 1981
Centigrade 37
Gottlieb, 1977
Champion Pub
Bally, 1998Quoted from nicoy3k:Incredible, how did you acquire the skills to do this? So jealous of folks like you with the ability to create amazing things
Thank you. I have a brief thread about this. It’s probably needs to be updated but it does a good job of covering the first several years and helps highlight the skill set utilized.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-evolution-of-hephigh-end-pins
Quoted from mollyspub:What exactly do you do when you shave the edges?
Sand them. I have a YouTube video of that on my channel.
The channel that I occasionally remember to put something on.
Quoted from bam10:Have to say I was amazed how well sanding the edges of the decals works. Thank you for all the tips and insights you’ve shared.
I just did one that way, saves time, better results, genius !
Thanks HEP for your tips and tricks 
Quoted from bam10:Have to say I was amazed how well sanding the edges of the decals works. Thank you for all the tips and insights you’ve shared.
Doesn't this scuff and peel up the edge of the decals where you don't want them to?
Quoted from mollyspub:Doesn't this scuff and peel up the edge of the decals where you don't want them to?
Your cabinet edge has got to be nice and straight, and you follow up the edging with appropriate color paint pen (which you have to do if you cut the vinyl decal as well)....
I worked through the C37 lower cabinet panel.
Nothing over the top to start with.
New cord,fuse holders,all new Phillips screws in place of the slotted ones and a new grounded service outlet.
186786DC-C7C1-4037-802E-6D03E2AD11FB (resized).jpeg1BFD8C3F-20CA-4779-9211-8E134095FD91 (resized).jpeg56E11F6C-34AA-40C2-8D5F-1429BB670F5E (resized).jpeg5EE5DBAA-340F-47A8-86BE-6EF3C4DD653D (resized).jpeg8A2AFFE5-89A4-4139-B74A-D7D580FD1B04 (resized).jpegD19183D6-ED36-414C-9DEF-7D0014A491F1 (resized).jpegQuoted from High_End_Pins:C37 up on four legs. Head is built
Pink shade alteration are working out as planned I really just eyed this but it is much more in tune with the backglass shade than the original.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Just perfect!
Quoted from High_End_Pins:C37 up on four legs. Head is built
Pink shade alteration are working out as planned I really just eyed this but it is much more in tune with the backglass shade than the original.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Edit: Nevermind. It just dawned on me that the yellow is the electricity.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:I worked through the C37 lower cabinet panel.
Nothing over the top to start with.
New cord,fuse holders,all new Phillips screws in place of the slotted ones and a new grounded service outlet.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Did you also fix up the transformer? It looks clean, black, and shiny.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:C37 up on four legs. Head is built
Pink shade alteration are working out as planned I really just eyed this but it is much more in tune with the backglass shade than the original.
I was today years old when I learned that the C37 backglass includes the conversion to Fahrenheit in a footnote. I knew the significance already but that's a nice touch.
Quoted from Gornkleschnitzer:I was today years old when I learned that the C37 backglass includes the conversion to Fahrenheit in a footnote. I knew the significance already but that's a nice touch.
Hah I never noticed that before either.
Also wondering if the ribbon mech is all working well with this one, or if it will get some HEP rework magic.
Quoted from JediMcMuffin:Sorry to be off topic, but how do you like those PVC floor tiles?
Those work great.
The only place they show any real use /deformation is where I consistently drop weights. I could just pop those up snd replace them easy enough.
I got these from a place called Big Floors. Not sure if they are still around but it has been good.
I had a hard time coming up with a decent door for the C37.
I ended up buying one door for its frame and another for bezel then sticking with the original but not perfect skin.
Broke the good frame door down.
00CBE2E5-955A-4A68-8625-7D486E5B07C6 (resized).jpegE3AD25D0-13B0-49A5-9021-4221FC4C909D (resized).jpeg
Blasted everything of the frame except the face. 27D272C2-8A4A-4445-A5C3-942A60BDD911 (resized).jpeg
Installed all the plated parts from the original. image (resized).jpg
Regrained and straightened the skin as well as possible and installed it
I just ordered some different coin slots so those will probably change but it gets the door onto the cabinet
image (resized).jpgQuoted from High_End_Pins:I just posted this Who Dunnit here for sale if anyone is interested.
Machine - For Sale
Who Dunnit
New!
Fully shopped/refurbished “I have a spare Who Dunnit here.
The game is a nice example with matching number boards and what looks to be a new display. It has been recently shopped with some enhancements li...”15 minutes ago
Matthews, NC
3,750 (OBO)
High_End_Pins
Damn Chris, I'm not looking for a Who Dunnit, but you should put these offers up more often. This is an awesome opportunity. Obviously not a normal situation.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:I just posted this Who Dunnit here for sale if anyone is interested.
Machine - For Sale
Who Dunnit
New!
Fully shopped/refurbished “I have a spare Who Dunnit here.
The game is a nice example with matching number boards and what looks to be a new display. It has been recently shopped with some enhancements li...”40 minutes ago
Matthews, NC
3,750 (OBO)
High_End_Pins
Dam, I just bought one of these this weekend or I’d be in the SUV tomorrow heading your way!!!
Speaking of a road trip, when will you be having the next HEP warehouse sale? It’s been a while so can wait to see what the surplus items & used cabinets will be this time.
Quoted from epeabs:Damn Chris, I'm not looking for a Who Dunnit, but you should put these offers up more often. This is an awesome opportunity. Obviously not a normal situation.
This happens once every couple years around here. I almost never have any games to spare or projects to offer but when I do I really just try to move them for fair and reasonable prices and terms.
My real goals are to serve the paying customers ,waste no space on anything but those paying owner supplied projects and find good homes for the occasional orphans as easily as possible 
Quoted from High_End_Pins:I had a hard time coming up with a decent door for the C37.
I ended up buying one door for its frame and another for bezel then sticking with the original but not perfect skin.
Broke the good frame door down.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Blasted everything of the frame except the face. [quoted image]
Installed all the plated parts from the original. [quoted image]
Regrained and straightened the skin as well as possible and installed it
I just ordered some different coin slots so those will probably change but it gets the door onto the cabinet
[quoted image]
Really hard to get those dents out. Regrainging is the way to go for sure! Looks great.
Quoted from Pinsrgrt:Dam, I just bought one of these this weekend or I’d be in the SUV tomorrow heading your way!!!
Speaking of a road trip, when will you be having the next HEP warehouse sale? It’s been a while so can wait to see what the surplus items & used cabinets will be this time.
I too would love to see another HEP warehouse sale, it’s been over 4 years since the last one which I missed!
Playfield is in the BSD.
Still have some work to do but I have overcome all that rust.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
Quoted from High_End_Pins:W?D is spoken for if anything changes I will let it be known.
It’s leaving as it sets so I do have the NOS playfield and cabinet art still available if there is an interest in those items.
No problem keeping them in my stash for a rainy day if not.
So you're wanting like 1250 for the playfield?
Quoted from alexmogil:So you're wanting like 1250 for the playfield?
Yes somewhere in there.Are you just curious or interested?
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Yes somewhere in there.Are you just curious or interested?
Mostly curious. My equipment and evidence inserts lost a slight bit of art from previous incandescent use but at the same time I can't value the game so much for a new playfield.
Quoted from alexmogil:Mostly curious. My equipment and inserts lost a slight bit of art from previous incandescent use but at the same time I can't value the game so much for a new playfield.
No problem. NOS playfields are pretty tough to come by. Repros tend to run around $1000 for the titles they make and this isn’t one of them so it’s a really fair price but unfortunately many people try to equate the value of a part with the value of the game.
I can understand the mentality of it but it’s really irrelevant in my experience having had to source many parts and playfields over the years.
My blue metal rail on BSD is missing some paint where the ball strikes it on the left hand side. I see you've replaced the metal rails with wood ones, are you going to add some protection there?
On my previous BSD I stripped and repainted the metal rails with hammered paint. Had to mix my own since I couldn't find blue hammertone paint in Canada. Only silver hammered and regular blue. Still, came out looking pretty nice.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:it’s a really fair price but unfortunately many people try to equate the value of a part with the value of the game.
I can understand the mentality of it but it’s really irrelevant in my experience having had to source many parts and playfields over the years.
Agreed on all fronts - for a collector who really wants that primo W?D this will be a life saver. Me, I kinda like the game.
Quoted from dr_nybble:My blue metal rail on BSD is missing some paint where the ball strikes it on the left hand side. I see you've replaced the metal rails with wood ones, are you going to add some protection there?
On my previous BSD I stripped and repainted the metal rails with hammered paint. Had to mix my own since I couldn't find blue hammertone paint in Canada. Only silver hammered and regular blue. Still, came out looking pretty nice.
Those metal rails are tough to deal with. The hammer tone is the way to go.
I replace them when I can because the wood rails I get from Taylor are oak and I paint them with base coat. That absorbs into the grain like a stain would. Then I clear them so I don’t think there will be any wear concerns but the best part is that they are just black if so.
My biggest contention with the metal rails is that if you get a rough game like this BSD everything is stripped out and while you could tap the holes bigger you can’t find post to match up so you end up placing nuts and bolts under the sides but those usually stick out past the rail and could scratch the sides of the cabinet.
Not that I have given it much thought 
BSD is up and running again
Really appreciate the help with the speaker panel and flash lamp board.
24F5F137-F28D-42CD-822B-A26ECA0FE11F (resized).jpeg6BBFC3C5-9691-47E5-BDFA-2A2BC5A61799 (resized).jpeg594D01A0-0BFD-4177-96C0-55F1395E81D1 (resized).jpegE4CB148D-BBD6-4EE9-9D73-2B21D4AB42EA (resized).jpegQuoted from Pinballemporium:HEP warehouse sale? As they say in the surfing world Locals Rule!
E51D0C91-4FBE-4E75-B5AB-D3D6BE30ADDC (resized).pngReady to head towards the final phase of the C37.
I test fit the playfield. 327007CB-C713-4202-9E31-A6E4102A0000 (resized).jpeg
Pull the apron and arch to refinish. E5B6BE8B-3107-4631-977D-7D34E824220D (resized).jpeg
I will paint those with the same white base coat as I used on the cabinet for the best consistency. 7BD775A2-CD0D-4B0D-9F5C-36EF33D9AAC1 (resized).jpeg
I cleaned and wet sanded the art off along with the ball grooves and rust. 61C4B13F-DD0E-4757-95E3-031EA3E7FEBA (resized).jpeg83550ADA-7BD9-412E-B0AC-CDC716933CCA (resized).jpegCC4B028F-65A6-4D11-9D93-A6375296CBE9 (resized).jpeg
Degreased and ready to epoxy prime. 19B7598E-4EFE-432B-9956-A2A8D32FD407 (resized).jpeg
Primed.
71343962-7779-4C4D-8AAC-2D8132571886 (resized).jpegE325CEF0-2B86-4A04-AFD1-28599B891CF6 (resized).jpegC37 playfield sanded and polished
85776EC7-8ABE-407E-82B9-1EE566527DAB (resized).jpegCEC866FB-935E-4C2E-B305-EEF57B120B9D (resized).jpeg1C1003A7-6CFC-4286-9D46-B379F6A94F7D (resized).jpeg8E4EF199-979A-408D-85CD-1CC4B0D81315 (resized).jpeg5CC09072-5B42-4AB9-B5B7-BB642FDFC0FF (resized).jpeg3EDA42E2-5C14-487C-B388-254DEAB8B2A4 (resized).jpegCFCFC7A5-ACED-47CA-B6ED-B38ECE5AED69 (resized).jpeg47D4C491-8650-4A02-BFC6-5139F7187D76 (resized).jpeg9E9BFEDD-C113-4F33-A602-ED525B74338E (resized).jpegManaged to squeeze a couple others out at the same time. I think I have like four playfield only jobs left around here and when they are done that’s it.
Absolutely no interest in providing that service any longer. I get lots of inquiries and had to just stop replying to them because I can sometimes be suckered into it again every so often.
37E032F5-480A-4C55-BB2E-3878A1FFC7A7 (resized).jpeg5F12F578-3AB2-4EBC-92F0-6A27DA98A55B (resized).jpeg3EC6056E-5861-48AE-9801-9583EA8124DC (resized).jpegF9F7CFFB-D633-445A-863B-F83CAC2E4849 (resized).jpegBCAF9106-ADE6-4290-8860-6683217491CA (resized).jpeg53888DE2-26E7-4BC4-A589-C80B675050B2 (resized).jpegF4FF57AB-FA23-46B7-875E-B790B8225A23 (resized).jpegAC2EDD36-440D-463A-B52A-89A2F5A63B42 (resized).jpeg0613EDD1-E14B-40E1-A501-8B3BC3590865 (resized).jpeg7CB3B76F-81AC-4BE0-BB78-8F3A16D8602B (resized).jpegimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Managed to squeeze a couple others out at the same time. I think I have like four playfield only jobs left around here and when there done that’s it.
Absolutely no interest in providing that service any longer. I get lots of inquiries and had to just stop replying to them because I can sometimes be suckered into it again every so often.
But you do such a great job!
Quoted from High_End_Pins:...Absolutely no interest in providing that service any longer. I get lots of inquiries and had to just stop replying to them because I can sometimes be suckered into it again every so often.
Good! Gives you more time for game restorations!
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Managed to squeeze a couple others out at the same time. I think I have like four playfield only jobs left around here and when there done that’s it.
Absolutely no interest in providing that service any longer. I get lots of inquiries and had to just stop replying to them because I can sometimes be suckered into it again every so often. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I am still trying to figure out how I can sucker you into painting my Grand National. This pinball stuff has to dry up one day and I will be standing there with the keys and a Tootsie Pop.
Quoted from Pinballemporium:I am still trying to figure out how I can sucker you into painting my Grand National. This pinball stuff has to dry up one day and I will be standing there with the keys and a Tootsie Pop.
I wanna see this GN!
Late night photo.
Barn find with factory ordered GNX wheels and turbo
Frame off coming this winter. Still trying to figure out how I can get CH in the big booth.
E80B6F2A-EA67-46B7-AB33-7E04F6DC5677 (resized).jpegQuoted from Pinballemporium:Late night photo.
Barn find with factory ordered GNX wheels and turbo
Frame off coming this winter. Still trying to figure out how I can get CH in the big booth.
[quoted image]
Great car. I loved those,Irocs,and all the 80s cars. It was a tough time and we didn’t have those over the top performance cars of the 60’s and early 70’s
I haven’t been in the big booth since 2004
It made me think about some of those projects. Back then no cell phone cameras.
Here is a brand new at the time ML320 I camouflaged for put in front of the dealership right after 9-11. image (resized).jpg
Here is my own 1983 Mustang GT that I did back in 96.
It was a sleeper kept it looking bone stock down to the metric wheels and TRX tires.
It really had a GT-40 crate motor ,8.8 3:55 rear end,world class T-5 and a full independent Saleen suspension. All the handling stuff. Crosstower braces ,sub frame connectors etc etc.
I was able to get all the factory moldings and emblems back then. Did it all myself inside and out start to finish.
I had just moved down here to help my dad get this new dealership body shop off the ground.
I wouldn’t cash my paychecks because I didn’t need to at the time.
After they built up high enough I cashed them in and went to Earl Tindol Ford using my own dealerships discount and ordered everything.
That’s Sandy in the background. Crazy how fast time flies.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
HEP, I know this isn't a "how to" thread, so I fully understand if you choose not to respond. I own a pristine AFMr LE (my favorite pin), but since I've bought it (second owner) the scratched interior of the scoop distresses me visually every time I play the game. I finally decided to try to do something about it, so I removed it this evening and polished it. My guess is that it came from the factory that way so maybe those are tool marks, as the game had less than 50 plays when I purchased it.
While it cleaned up pretty well, it still has all of those ugly looking scratch marks towards the base of the interior scoop and could still be polished better. My question is how to I get rid of the scratch marks and overall rough surface? I assume some sanding with certain grits then some polishing, but I've never done anything like this before. Again, if you choose to comment I appreciate it, but I also want to be considerate of you and this thread so I understand if you prefer not to.
After polishing - still needs a lot of work
IMG_6112 (resized).JPG
Before polishing
e6ee5deb08d405328c8fd558458b82be985c94e8 (resized).png
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:HEP, I know this isn't a "how to" thread, so I fully understand if you choose not to respond. I own a pristine AFMr LE (my favorite pin), but since I've bought it (second owner) the scratched interior of the scoop distresses me visually every time I play the game. I finally decided to try to do something about it, so I removed it this evening and polished it. My guess is that it came from the factory that way so maybe those are tool marks, as the game had less than 50 plays when I purchased it.
While it cleaned up pretty well, it still has all of those ugly looking scratch marks towards the base of the interior scoop and could still be polished better. My question is how to I get rid of the scratch marks and overall rough surface? I assume some sanding with certain grits then some polishing, but I've never done anything like this before. Again, if you choose to comment I appreciate it, but I also want to be considerate of you and this thread so I understand if you prefer not to.
After polishing - still needs a lot of work
[quoted image]
Before polishing
[quoted image]
Those really are tool marks.
I would do this.
Buy a nice stainless replacement from Mantis Amusements.
It’s not that you couldn’t get the marks out but the shape of the scoop makes it time consuming and tedious when for much less time and effort you could get a much nicer looking replacement.
When tool marks are that deep your probably going to need to remove a good bit of material getting well past whatever protective coating was on there originally. This is where the nice new stainless version will be the best solution.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Those really are tool marks.
I would do this.
Buy a nice stainless replacement from Mantis Amusements.
It’s not that you couldn’t get the marks out but the shape of the scoop makes it time consuming and tedious when for much less time and effort you could get a much nicer looking replacement.
When tool marks are that deep your probably going to need to remove a good bit of material getting well past whatever protective coating was on there originally. This is where the nice new stainless version will be the best solution.
Now that I know there is a great HEP recommended replacement, I thought what harm could I do by giving my current one a shot. I'm somewhat limited in that my sanding grits only range from 60 to 400 and I had to do it all by hand, but in about 30 minutes I went from a 3-4 to about a 6-7 range on the quality scale. You are right in that those scratches are very deep and I just couldn't get them to come out by hand.
Thank you for taking the time to respond, and pointing me to a quality replacement. I just put my order in, and looking forward to installing it in my pin.
scoop (resized).jpg
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Matthews, NC
Leduc, AB
Auckland, NZ