(Topic ID: 225528)

HEP This Week 12–5-21

By High_End_Pins

3 years ago


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  • Latest reply 4 hours ago by Mr_Tantrum
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Topic poll

“EBD Trim legs will be black regardless ”

  • Stainless/Factory 35 votes
    31%
  • Blacked out 54 votes
    48%
  • Painted Gold matched to cabinet 24 votes
    21%

(113 votes)

This poll has been closed.

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#8801 9 months ago

Red Centaur cabinet is wired and modernized.
Powered up to check all the new wiring.

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#8802 9 months ago

Now to finish wiring the charcoal one.

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#8803 9 months ago

Been slowly chipping away at the Shadow KE 28AA13FB-AE24-4DAE-93F6-F129D572523C (resized).jpeg

I go through it as parts pile up. 886A6A9C-4004-4A27-81EB-B306C8C46220 (resized).jpeg

Grained the phurbas and redecaled B9904EA8-8590-4099-B23E-F91E6E9C0A70 (resized).jpeg9133B7EC-B861-42BD-92B5-52C5AEB80E08 (resized).jpeg97AD4F51-D4AC-4681-AF7A-BA3FF9985D29 (resized).jpeg3EE25547-AF66-43C2-AA83-DE528C2B6994 (resized).jpeg

Did the apron wireforms gun new harnesses for most tidier with the shrink tube.
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142AF22E-3E5D-46C9-A4D2-9C98ED4881C7 (resized).jpeg21D61BA3-9781-451C-9476-C44F5A85C1B6 (resized).jpeg46024408-298F-4CEA-BF53-F9A357E3152A (resized).jpeg57931B6C-BC2E-49C3-B02F-8134906A1CE3 (resized).jpeg96DE59DC-2928-4BD9-AEA7-2D3DE1357242 (resized).jpeg
#8804 9 months ago

Got the old playfield out of the cabinet. 2AAC11E9-4F67-43B6-94C9-AE00DE3BBB9D (resized).jpeg
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#8805 9 months ago

Started building up the new one. I cleared it a while back then sanded and polished it last week not sure if I included that if not it was done. 1EBA24D7-CD41-4243-8531-DB6AE1BFCF0E (resized).jpeg2053B40B-2342-4096-BD5F-0CC04E6AD8A4 (resized).jpeg7B873A3B-954C-44D6-A3ED-970A4BB5E114 (resized).jpeg

Ready to assemble B38034E6-4A21-4FC9-A334-3FA950D977B1 (resized).jpeg

5EDF96EC-8221-4C8C-95B7-F7ECDB9ABE6B (resized).jpeg
#8806 9 months ago

Most of the metal was rusty enough that tumbling would be a waste of time so it was done by hand. The ball guides were severely grooved but regrained well considering.

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#8807 9 months ago

Ready to deal with the underside. 1C14B71D-04A1-450F-B638-F2D3C7F3F6E8 (resized).jpeg

Been working on that for a good bit. The GI needed a good bit of attention

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#8808 9 months ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

Most of the metal was rusty enough that tumbling would be a waste of time so it was done by hand. The ball guides were severely grooved but regrained well considering.

Did you end up replating everying or are the photos just the result of a lot of your elbow grease?

#8809 9 months ago
Quoted from TaylorVA:

Damn dude, that shrink tube trick is slick as fuck.

sho is

#8810 9 months ago

Was this a mirco play field? How as dimpling and hole alignment?

#8811 9 months ago
Quoted from Fifty:

Did you end up replating everying or are the photos just the result of a lot of your elbow grease?

Combination of the two.
Most smaller parts are done by hand because plating can make them bigger sometimes and create issues.
Larger ones vary based on the previous condition but pretty much anything can be polished up well if the original metal is decent.
If heavily corroded or rusted then plating is best.

#8812 9 months ago
Quoted from Elicash:

Was this a mirco play field? How as dimpling and hole alignment?

It’s a CPR.
Through hole accuracy is great.
Dimpling ranges from correct,close enough , off,way off,and finally are you f*****g joking!!!

The worst on this one was the right slingshot area but it could vary from playfield to playfield.
The two dimples represent where the coil would mount if followed.
As you can see if I had followed that it would have been way out and binding.
Not a big deal to me I test fit each part as I go.
Some are closer than others.

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#8813 9 months ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

Started building up the new one. I cleared it a while back then sanded and polished it last week not sure if I included that if not it was done.

Are you planning to put dollhouse plastic brick on the backboard of the sanctum area? It really finishes the sanctum look in that area.

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#8814 9 months ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Are you planning to put dollhouse plastic brick on the backboard of the sanctum area? It really finishes the sanctum look in that area.[quoted image]

I wasn’t but now I am considering it. I ordered a few of them and will see how it goes.

#8815 9 months ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

I wasn’t but now I am considering it. I ordered a few of them and will see how it goes.

(Shadow is probably my favorite pin from the 1990s. I've redone a number of them. Not to HEP levels, but some definite experimentation happened.)

You'll probably have to try a few. The hardest part is finding the right-looking scale of brick.

Also, if you do it. cut a matching piece to cover the area behind the VUK that goes to the battlefield. On this one I did, the brick kind of ended abruptly on a straight line just before the VUK top and it didn't look great because the visual continuity ended abruptly looking right to left. But yeah, I love the way the brick looks back there, especially when that mode starts and the flashers flash with the rain and lightning on the screen above it.

Oh, and if you're going with black habitrails, a black ramp and phurba diverter base in front of the battlefield looks boss. I did black and brass habitrails, but black on black should look great, possibly even better.
left_ramp (resized).jpg

#8816 9 months ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

Combination of the two.
Most smaller parts are done by hand because plating can make them bigger sometimes and create issues.

I understand. I had an upper playfield cleared on a WH2O. The clear was enough to throw the VUK off so that the ball didn't travel up through the wireform to the upper PF and just fell back down. That was a pain in the ass.

#8817 9 months ago

I like the brick. Here is a backboard "The Shadow" decal an owner had me design for them (I updated the decal and modified some of the buildings on the left). There are a few others out there as I'm sure you know.

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#8818 9 months ago

Let’s see what is going on around here.
I decided to go with anew cabinet for the Shadow so that’s on the back burner for a bit.
I will work through what’s in the old one here and there 603FACEC-BFF4-4E28-A88D-441FE381B25B (resized).jpegDE8FC1FA-459F-4606-BBB2-C0C213FF64A6 (resized).jpeg

I did get most of the playfield wiring done.
The lamp boards were pretty dirty so the game will definitely be brighter. C9E03E49-EE52-4B21-A32C-3D01665134BF (resized).jpeg4C624822-DB89-46C8-A36D-AFDBAE42BD39 (resized).jpeg41126737-640D-4149-8054-5996E7AB3EC4 (resized).jpeg

Since the project shifted gears and I will just chip away at it now so the playfield doesn’t out pace the cabinet I mark what’s left with tape as a reminder. image (resized).jpg

#8819 9 months ago

I am able to move a couple new projects in.

First is a C37 image (resized).jpg46922C3C-9672-46F8-846E-58F84C2071A9 (resized).jpeg

My main goal right now for that is to gut the cabinet and hand it off to the cabinet builder to be copied.
Even wrapped up I can tell it absolutely needs a cabinet.

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#8820 9 months ago

Another new project put into process is Judge Dredd
That one will start with a new cabinet in the paint shop. 97297002-7CAB-4EB9-B349-138376B59CE6 (resized).jpeg1D020616-F1A7-4CC0-B379-CC10B2F96352 (resized).jpeg

Game is pulled to verify a few things beforeI get too far along. C35B96C4-D520-466F-B017-846CA5C0FF17 (resized).jpeg

Yes the cabinet is rough.

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#8821 9 months ago

Both my Centaur cabinets are wired and power up. image (resized).jpg

The charcoal version is built factory style. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

The red is cleaned up and modernized eliminating a lot of redundant tilt switches,cumbersome lifting and worthless prop bracketry. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

#8822 9 months ago

With the Centaur cabinets out of the way and known to be in good order I can start getting further into the playfields.
The conversion of the Centaur 2 into a traditional centaur has proven to be way more complex than it would seem but that is mostly the cabinet wiring and I have overcome that.
Big thanks to Shawn at third coast for taking some of the burden of the conversion off my shoulders. He built a perfect backbox harness that I could adapt into the conversion.
Playfield wise not much left to figure out.
These plugs from Centaur 2 CECB8BF8-9A4F-4C00-9F60-DE4FE289580C (resized).jpeg
Need to be converted to this style from the regular Centaur. C2DE5FC4-22EA-40E1-89F4-5CA66F57D7F9 (resized).jpeg

Did that easy enough. 076B62BA-C54A-4BD2-892E-ABE0E9298D8D (resized).jpeg

Now I am in a position that is close to normal and continue on. 159D8F40-F190-47DC-B720-EC0A356A4F6F (resized).jpeg

Putting the basics on plugs to start with. C6BD19C8-4E43-47D0-BB35-31F4FA21BFBB (resized).jpeg2BA16A17-6479-4F15-A34A-9EA5DDF5678C (resized).jpeg

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#8823 9 months ago

With the harness off what will be the red Centaur I can start reconfiguring things.
This is meant to be a recreation or reinterpretation beyond just the obvious things like the cabinet color BCB77596-7F3D-41A7-B0DA-C1C815867740 (resized).jpeg

There is so much that I think can be improved through a few changes.

One thing in particular is that bumper body and cap choices are severely limited with the stock configuration. 08983FD8-E4B7-4830-91B4-584B70A685AA (resized).jpeg

Another is how the sling assemblies fit and operate. 423DBDEE-9BCC-41FB-8A99-985CA9C43C9D (resized).jpeg

The leaf switches with the separate actuators and the need for all these long screws is something I will eliminate anywhere I can.
The less leaf switches to adjust and maintain the better. 9B657B2F-30E5-4341-BC2D-443515EF98D2 (resized).jpeg

#8824 9 months ago

The leaf switches are pretty easy to replace with the micros I am fitting everything and mapping it out on the old playfield and that will make the true assembly on the new one easier and cleaner 06CC0B6D-3AFF-4D1A-95AE-F1435F1B6798 (resized).jpegC8A36E79-68C2-4270-8B59-04F58667E39C (resized).jpeg

The slings are much cleaner as well had to get creative on the wrappers since they are labeled as Stern but coil values are coil values. 26-1200 888C6547-1A2D-42D9-9499-5746D5145CED (resized).jpeg64B56F87-1200-45CB-97BB-4E6953B45AF3 (resized).jpegC8A178EA-1BE1-4F54-992B-B39E9132EEFD (resized).jpeg

#8825 9 months ago

I can't watch this commercial now without HEP popping into my head

#8826 9 months ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

Let’s see what is going on around here.
I decided to go with anew cabinet for the Shadow so that’s on the back burner for a bit.

New cabinet was the right choice. That existing one was ruff.

#8827 9 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I can't watch this commercial now without HEP popping into my head

Ha Ha i hear you

#8828 9 months ago

Finished gutting the Shadow cabinet
No point in dealing with swollen MDF unless I have to 103C5651-92BD-401F-A4BF-27B08E34C615 (resized).jpeg7EDE1DAC-8234-4BE8-8BD2-3FEB450B1CCA (resized).jpegD4B69385-1723-4F95-935B-6B1E65334336 (resized).jpeg

#8829 9 months ago

Worked throughs some remaining parts like the transformer. 9B97311F-2517-4601-9990-9A6544FB3653 (resized).jpeg

Then the phurba mechs.
They were a bit rough.
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New cranks installed. 4B502EE3-796E-4924-A24E-56D8827F8EB4 (resized).jpeg8E332A37-9FE7-4CEF-BCC2-FC9B6BC91BA8 (resized).jpeg
The old ones were definitely wallowed out.

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#8830 9 months ago

The tubes within the brackets are pretty solid but not completely wiggle free.
I hesitate to have them welded because I don’t fully trust they wouldn’t be somehow ruined and I doubt they are easy to come by.
AF7F73B4-99B9-420C-A81F-8B8CDF2749D9 (resized).jpeg

In these cases I use 3M panel bonding adhesive. This is a special adhesive that replicates welding.
It is traditionally used to glue body panels onto cars and it is certified to hold up i structural compromises.
In other words this is light weight for it to handle and most importantly I will get the reinforcement I want without the risk.
It’s no JB Weld or Home Depot like product. It is not cheap either.
D64E4DE4-02F3-44FA-A1D9-0F97A86472E0 (resized).jpeg

It’s a 50/50 mix they make tubes that mix it perfectly as it ejects but I would waste more getting it through the tube than I need for this application so I mix it manually. F0EE4B75-CAE1-4757-AD0F-01C807DF5510 (resized).jpeg
E12B0767-2F63-49B0-8EDC-93A9EE9C0673 (resized).jpeg

Metal is prepped. Didn’t need much this will stick to just about anything metal with little effort.
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It’s applied as neatly as possible my main concern is a good reinforcing application above cosmetics though because I think it will be well hidden once installed. AEEEE9D2-155A-40B0-9DF8-EEB5F714BB9D (resized).jpeg0233CE99-AA98-4ED9-A74D-F30FC65C69F4 (resized).jpeg51093E32-B0B4-4F83-85AD-9E89A5459D11 (resized).jpeg
It takes 24 hours to cure naturally. Not a fast product.
I put it in the sun to speed it up enough to be able to handle later.

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#8831 9 months ago

Back to work on my Centaurs.
First I had to cut some new flipper assemblies.
Needs just a little notch to be adapted to Centaur. D81E44E7-FECE-4797-AA35-3AE3A0008BD9 (resized).jpeg
2018A2D9-A7EA-4B68-A213-A2BCDA1DB508 (resized).jpeg

Then I started prepping the new playfield for the red Centaur.
I cleared that one myself and it will assemble easily.
The other was cleared elsewhere and will be a nightmare. I may go into detail on that or I may not. Part of me wants to explain and highlight the difference and pitfalls the other part doesn’t feel the need for drama.Just deal with it and move on.
D4C27420-7580-494B-9666-4EBF8B6D5761 (resized).jpeg
I install the slide brackets first.
One side is easy no modification needed.
BB5CD316-61FA-4388-8092-409912834A7C (resized).jpeg
The other got shaved a little and pushed out to insure it won’t obstruct the underside ball launch wireform. A2ABE800-0955-48FC-A69F-B934411FAC10 (resized).jpeg10757392-C0A0-4549-A9C8-7E641832CC08 (resized).jpeg

Playfield is test fit again.
All set. 3227C1DE-2C42-4E42-BC0E-7EC9D104BF34 (resized).jpeg

#8832 9 months ago

The new rails are placed. I painted them with a similar pattern only where they are fully exposed

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#8833 9 months ago

Rails are the grouse.

#8834 9 months ago

Just about ready to flip the Centaur red playfield and start building the underside.
Used the nee Mantis ball guides. They fit well.

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#8835 9 months ago

I’m sure this question has been asked before, but what is the “worst” game or lowest ranked game that got the HEP restore? Has anyone wanted a Bugs Bunny’s Birthday Ball or Hardbody done?

All the restored games look amazing. You do great work

#8836 9 months ago
Quoted from loghome895:

A museum quality piece! Better then new! Well done!

For sure!

Seeing the artwork up close for the first time. One of the best cartoon themes out there.

#8837 9 months ago

Unwrapped the lower C37 cab
Wow! It is seriously a piece of junk cabinet wise.
AC728DF6-54BE-4585-AB41-B9D497D818BC (resized).jpeg4368532B-C815-4BAA-911B-2EE38D51EA7D (resized).jpegB1B0ABC5-63A2-424C-94C5-0B09A4BC919A (resized).jpegB4134289-F5EA-4765-9E6F-3964E7585381 (resized).jpegAAE1CD6B-C54B-48D1-99C9-1ED0A1D39769 (resized).jpegE1188BFF-9555-48BC-BD89-B2A6A7D3E4F2 (resized).jpeg9278DA02-9E0F-4FFE-8721-3E947B60C02C (resized).jpeg06B25FF1-8776-461F-A6C3-EE40D1713DF5 (resized).jpegD8153A46-1145-486A-96A3-CD530B68121C (resized).jpeg

#8838 9 months ago
Quoted from Coz:

I’m sure this question has been asked before, but what is the “worst” game or lowest ranked game that got the HEP restore? Has anyone wanted a Bugs Bunny’s Birthday Ball or Hardbody done?
All the restored games look amazing. You do great work

Hard to say. So much of that is opinion but the most obscure one so far was the Select a Card woodrail last year.
Someone did actually send a Bugs Bunny a several years ago but never saw it through. Long live the HEP deposit system

#8839 9 months ago

Some did not like the Cyclopes that was done recently. For myself I thought it was pretty cool-looking.

Looking forward to C37, I really like that machine.

#8840 9 months ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

The other was cleared elsewhere and will be a nightmare. I may go into detail on that or I may not. Part of me wants to explain and highlight the difference and pitfalls the other part doesn’t feel the need for drama.Just deal with it and move on.

i would be curious to learn the differences but yeah being pinball, there is always a lot of drama...

#8841 8 months ago

I would find it useful to hear how you rate a good clearcoat job from a bad one, I could understand why you would want to avoid the drama of mentioning who did it but if you can without mentioning the person I would find it educational.

BTW, I was doing a cabinet decal job the other day and I had a "I wonder how Chris does it " moment. Using a plastic squeegee I've used before, made specifically for applying decals, I tried 2 methods that worked well for me in the past, wrapping the squeegee with a blue paper towel and I also tried a microfiber rag to keep from scratching the surface of the decal while applying. But if you look at the surface you can see some mild abrasive scratches on the surface of the decals. They came right off with some novus but I was wondering if there was a better trick for that. Maybe I was applying too much pressure or maybe it was just the quality of the decals.

#8842 8 months ago

I would love to see HEP's opinion and comparison on clear coats. For me there is no drama, strictly informational. If people want to introduce drama to this thread they can leave, but I think most followers here are pretty drama-free (in this thread, at least!)

#8843 8 months ago
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:

I would love to see HEP's opinion and comparison on clear coats. For me there is no drama, strictly informational. If people want to introduce drama to this thread they can leave, but I think most followers here are pretty drama-free (in this thread, at least!)

Well, I'm not exactly clear (pun intended) how Chris would give comparisons w/o photos or mentioning specific cases (maybe he can speak in generalities), but to his credit I've seen him avoid specifically criticizing the work of others (of course he will speak for himself on this topic if he so chooses). I know he's mentioned within this thread how he does it, and the obvious assumption would be he's vetted a variety of products/methods and the materials and process he currently utilizes deliver the best results.

#8844 8 months ago

Really looking forward to C37 as well....I have had one in my personal cue to restore for years now. Unfortunately i think it will still be some time before i get to it.

Quoted from High_End_Pins:

Wow! It is seriously a piece of junk cabinet wise.

Ya she's a little rough for sure.

#8845 8 months ago
Quoted from NYP:

I would find it useful to hear how you rate a good clearcoat job from a bad one, I could understand why you would want to avoid the drama of mentioning who did it but if you can without mentioning the person I would find it educational.
BTW, I was doing a cabinet decal job the other day and I had a "I wonder how Chris does it " moment. Using a plastic squeegee I've used before, made specifically for applying decals, I tried 2 methods that worked well for me in the past, wrapping the squeegee with a blue paper towel and I also tried a microfiber rag to keep from scratching the surface of the decal while applying. But if you look at the surface you can see some mild abrasive scratches on the surface of the decals. They came right off with some novus but I was wondering if there was a better trick for that. Maybe I was applying too much pressure or maybe it was just the quality of the decals.

These are easy to use with less concern - amazon.com link »

#8846 8 months ago

Here is a glimpse on the clear issues.
There is a segment of the hobby that thinks multiple coats of clear is a good thing and there are those that serve that market.
The practice is fine if all your going to do is look at it but but if you are going to actually install it then it’s a problem.
Two coats is more than sufficient. That is what is recommended by the manufacturers of auto clears and trust me if anyone wanted you to use more of the product it’s the person that makes and sells it.
I am certified in most major product lines snd was making six figures twenty years ago spraying them all day long outside of just my pinball experience which is equally extensive so this is coming from a point of true knowledge.

On my own cleared playfield I can just start screwing things together it needs no special prep nor must it be handled with kid gloves.
This is my playfield notice the Centaur letters are outlined only. 1C45C763-1E6D-4DF4-B517-E9488DE56EE1 (resized).jpeg

Using this screw hole as an example. BD2045B3-5509-42A1-ABE9-1982891F434E (resized).jpeg
I drive a new screw right on in no prep.
4365FD32-E747-436C-AF68-73669FC57497 (resized).jpeg305A958D-0F80-458E-8598-8435621F0A54 (resized).jpeg
No issues.
5B76A48E-026D-45A5-9BA8-68BD867A4224 (resized).jpeg

The supplied playfield for the charcoal centaur was not done by me it has red letters to distinguish it.
It’s a disaster. This is a concern at each and every screw location 80DE21F2-464D-49CA-B02C-E2EAFD12526C (resized).jpeg0983FF5A-44B4-46C4-A95F-FBDF1AD5CA32 (resized).jpeg4BBB42AB-B538-4476-8840-FC9CDA22D3A6 (resized).jpeg
70D6A37C-79E4-469E-BDC8-5FC1FCFC1866 (resized).jpeg6EB2C8E3-F86C-4E79-B682-6D15833F15E4 (resized).jpeg86055771-3D18-4CE2-9AE9-B4C0B609AB3C (resized).jpeg

The clear is brittle it shatters and it’s as thick as a clear plastic washer.

5C8B2252-06C3-4B22-B7A2-CEDED3E5D45B (resized).jpeg70D6A37C-79E4-469E-BDC8-5FC1FCFC1866 (resized).jpeg

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#8847 8 months ago

That’s all I am going to say or show about it.
I don’t have a problem with anyone or what they are doing.
My main concern is I just don’t want to deal with these clears on my own projects and that’s why.
By showing it hopefully it explains why thoroughly.

#8848 8 months ago

I would say your point is very clear!

thanks for the lesson!

#8849 8 months ago

So how are you getting the play fields with out the clear, and is this something anyone can get?

#8850 8 months ago

Very effective demonstration Chris. Thanks. So what primarily causes the difference? Incorrect product. Poor application? Poor technique? poor environment? I have no experience other than working as a labourer with a painter one summer who painted heavy equipment/vehicles in a mining operation whereby I learned that it is much harder than it appears to paint using a gun. He would let me try whenever he needed a good laugh. He was a fun old guy who liked to laugh - I told him it was because of all the fumes that seeped in through his respirator.

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