I'm probably the only one but I actually liked the look of the cab w/o the blue. Just the red silver and black looked great to me.
(Topic ID: 225528)
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Matthews, NC
F-14 head is screened. I thought about ordering some red ink for that but the way shipping is going these days I don’t have that kind of time to waste.
Makes its way into the cabinet building room.
AB8A5F09-8280-4FD0-B4C4-A57F75F6C69A (resized).jpeg150C7D44-8897-42D5-A7B0-C7E7078AF2DA (resized).jpeg81301CCB-CBFC-444E-9FBD-F215E9E61695 (resized).jpeg
When you finish one of your projects (like the recent IJ machines), how much of the original machine is actually part of the final result?
It seems like by the time you build a new cabinet, install a new playfield, re-do all the wiring, and replace lots of the other parts, there isn't much of the "old" machine left.
To paraphrase Plato, "if you replace the handle of an axe, and then replace the head of the axe, is it still the same axe?"
And if so, suppose you then take the old axe head and attach it to the old handle, do you now have two of the same axe?
I guess a related question would be "how complete does the old machine need to be for you to be able to restore it?"
If you are going to use a new cabinet and playfield anyway, can you start with just a big bag of boards/parts?
Quoted from freeplay3:Am I the only one who, when looking at those F14 pictures, could hear the music blaring in their head? That cabinet looks insanely good.
There's something about it now I can't put my finger on that's just SO GOOD that yes, I understand what you mean.
--Donnie
Quoted from mbeardsley:When you finish one of your projects (like the recent IJ machines), how much of the original machine is actually part of the final result?
It seems like by the time you build a new cabinet, install a new playfield, re-do all the wiring, and replace lots of the other parts, there isn't much of the "old" machine left.
To paraphrase Plato, "if you replace the handle of an axe, and then replace the head of the axe, is it still the same axe?"
And if so, suppose you then take the old axe head and attach it to the old handle, do you now have two of the same axe?
I guess a related question would be "how complete does the old machine need to be for you to be able to restore it?"
If you are going to use a new cabinet and playfield anyway, can you start with just a big bag of boards/parts?
You'd be surprised.
I had Chris take a wired and mostly complete and VERY well used TAF prototype playfield that I got and build a new game around it. But the playfield itself was so worn as to be not worth trying to restore. But the weldments were all hand made and the wiring had been hand done and I wanted to save that stuff as much as possible. But I also wanted it in a new cabinet with as much new brightwork as possible. I sort of assumed he could just source all the parts, but it turns out it is just MUCH easier to supply him with a blown out beater game to get everything from. There's just a TON of miscellaneous hardware that has to come from somewhere.
--Donnie
Quoted from mbeardsley:When you finish one of your projects (like the recent IJ machines), how much of the original machine is actually part of the final result?
It seems like by the time you build a new cabinet, install a new playfield, re-do all the wiring, and replace lots of the other parts, there isn't much of the "old" machine left.
To paraphrase Plato, "if you replace the handle of an axe, and then replace the head of the axe, is it still the same axe?"
And if so, suppose you then take the old axe head and attach it to the old handle, do you now have two of the same axe?
I guess a related question would be "how complete does the old machine need to be for you to be able to restore it?"
If you are going to use a new cabinet and playfield anyway, can you start with just a big bag of boards/parts?
Man, that’s some deep...
Quoted from mbeardsley:When you finish one of your projects (like the recent IJ machines), how much of the original machine is actually part of the final result?
It seems like by the time you build a new cabinet, install a new playfield, re-do all the wiring, and replace lots of the other parts, there isn't much of the "old" machine left.
To paraphrase Plato, "if you replace the handle of an axe, and then replace the head of the axe, is it still the same axe?"
And if so, suppose you then take the old axe head and attach it to the old handle, do you now have two of the same axe?
I guess a related question would be "how complete does the old machine need to be for you to be able to restore it?"
If you are going to use a new cabinet and playfield anyway, can you start with just a big bag of boards/parts?
It just depends on the game or options out there.
You would have to comb through the entire thread project by project to get a better sense of it.
On one end you will find something like the Grand Prix, woodrail on the other you will find the recently completed TAFs and IJs.
In the middle would be things like the older IJs(pre playfield release), the DR who and much more.
Getting new parts isn’t a criteria but ultimately new cabinets and new playfields make more sense when possible.
I have built games from scratch a couple times in the past but won’t do it anymore because from a business perspective it makes no sense.
Too much wasted time when beat originals are generally available and if not I am better off to focus on the work I have in wait.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:F-14 lower is up on legs.
Think I am sticking with a black and silver thing on this one.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Go Raiders!
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Onto Tron.
Now this I'm looking forward to.
Typical Saturday afternoon.
Workout
Cook something (lobsters today )
Cheesecake
Tasty beer
Nap
Maverick interruption.
D81CDFDA-A6F6-4BCB-8714-B4CA1A9017A7 (resized).pngBD7E6895-5AA8-4087-AB2F-03671A14915F (resized).jpegA761FBA6-6710-4A2E-8816-5C705678CA3D (resized).jpeg34E5DFCB-179C-4503-8037-CE7BB73F710F (resized).jpeg72251E50-D726-4320-9406-D40D517E88F3 (resized).jpegE9907E36-6FAF-464E-8FE6-C79DD9526053 (resized).jpeg2516FA59-9979-4AD0-81E6-F8CEA9BDFFE4 (resized).jpegQuoted from Calfdemon:Eye of the beholder for sure. I can understand the purist standpoint as well, but I think the sculpted paths by Loir are amazing and really take IJ to the next level. I also think the Kornfreak planes are an upgrade. But again, to each their own.
I have all installed and the entire machine looks transformed. Along with Pinsound board and colordmd. Damn. Never going back.
New week new projects.
Tron playfield is torn down.
This was a tough playfield to teardown.
They just are not built to be disassembled easily.
I don’t quite follow the logic they use on the lamp boards where they have connectors but at the same time hard soldered wires going to them. Really defeats the purpose of the connectors. 33192D09-8976-4327-BC42-12680E2C6C81 (resized).jpeg
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187561A0-193C-41E8-A92C-5DA64029C336 (resized).jpeg
I got all the coils off and onto plugs. FE0A55DF-7072-4990-869C-49C29353C256 (resized).jpeg
Stripping the top without doing more damage was pretty much impossible because there are so many barbed wireguides. 6B526E04-1646-4224-9D27-F8358136E250 (resized).jpegB1DD597A-A26B-4D13-99D4-328DF0675669 (resized).jpeg
Often the plastic post are imbedded into the art and take art when removed.
3EB57B9A-ABD9-4E6B-8548-7DDB7747FF70 (resized).jpeg
This is why it’s always best to have another playfield when possible even if you don’t think you need one. The teardown process can quickly turn a 10 playfield into a 7 depending build style and games with numerous barbed wire guides are the worst.
Tron playfield is chemically cleaned. 38D63B50-3D18-4A86-9442-488C6D0F5527 (resized).jpeg
Then lightly sanded. 2E3E9FCA-1318-4798-889F-4FF659EEEC7F (resized).jpeg
Luckily there is no real damage or wear that will require significant repaints.
Just lots of little brush touches that will be covered after reassembly. It is amazing how water thin the factory clear is. Close to none at all.
These are the type of things that are exposed during teardown. DE0F63E6-1A0F-487A-AE09-3CB995F87EC5 (resized).jpeg566E3219-2E82-40D6-A407-9420D6C331CE (resized).jpeg
The touch ups are done and the playfield is ready to clear.
A25591E4-E958-46AF-A820-48D732FE569C (resized).jpegWhat about cutting the wireguides to near flush and driving them through the back from the front with a punch? I would think ball guides are easier to replace than a potential damage to some playfields.
Leduc, AB
Got the Tron playfield and some others cleared.
The NGG and Congo are some of the last remaining playfield only jobs left here.
I do not plan on doing any others once I close the remaining ones out. Those that have been taken in were done as favors but it is just hard to absorb in the daily routines so they sit around way too long and become a stressor.
Just don’t have the time and attention for them anymore. They always need way more work than it seems.
The CFTBL is for an upcoming project.
897CAA39-6BC5-4415-B227-3E8862477B6F (resized).jpegB5A90935-DA62-42F9-A2E4-DD3F8664AA28 (resized).jpegE7C2B9FF-FE55-44BF-BC08-DEF5D1431F99 (resized).jpeg24DD00D2-FA43-4980-98A6-C941F2BA1D86 (resized).jpegCA2448F5-3B20-4D9C-923D-D4D8460080C6 (resized).jpeg0F762E92-D03C-4C11-8D28-A3DD88E890AF (resized).jpeg9BDC0E38-5E06-4CF4-9F58-CC0989AA7EBE (resized).jpegQuoted from pinwiztom:You may need to improve on your covid protocol,
and space those playfields at least 6 ft from one another.
Pretty sure the Creature has already had it.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Pretty sure the Creature has already had it.
He's still not safe. First confirmed re-infection in the news today. Basically Hong Kong man picked up a mutated strain from Spain when traveling, 4 months after he recovered the first time. That's going to put a damper on international travel once this is resolved...
Woolgoolga
Quoted from yancy:Pleeease let's not go there in this thread.
GNR is pretty much done.
I metal etched the gun base in black to clean the look up a bit.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgQuoted from bam10:So after going through the tron playfield would you recommend doing the teardown and clearcoat or would you say better to just try to clean up what you have?
It really depends on what you want to accomplish.
The clear is not going hold up on one of these long term so the only way to address that is the teardown and clearcoating.
If it were a keeper and you would like to play it worry free it’s worth it.
If you are going to just keep the game a few months clean and wax what you have.
GNR is ready to pack and ship.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
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3A59CA85-7DFA-4362-94B3-521229AF7E4A (resized).jpeg
37C355CE-70D4-4655-A1E3-AB581929137D (resized).jpeg445F7436-4711-46B0-8FE4-CAB173B6BD89 (resized).jpeg15FC68FB-CB24-46D1-96B2-EAB667E676B0 (resized).jpeg7530AADA-9586-4BDC-8DFF-3C3A90AFCE0A (resized).jpeg60915D77-9CE5-4573-8744-D942BEBD9C31 (resized).jpegBD9B8022-9B46-4B6F-9A18-268C54A3D2F8 (resized).jpegDDFB1C03-32D5-4E07-8FC2-031219C8201C (resized).jpegWhen I owned that GNR I was more than happy with its condition at the time , who knew it could look THIS much better!? Great work! Still miss this one for sure but glad it got the upgrade and is headed to a new home! For anyone here with a GNR, take note, the CPR mirrored backglass is a sight to behold! Worth every penny. Looks just as good with the machine turned on or off!
Nice work Chris!
At first I was like, "why does Chris hate doing just playfields, or just a cabinet? Money's money." But after seeing so much perfection go out the door, it must be disappointing to send something out having only touched a piece of it. In a way your name is associated with this game now, despite all the flaws and factory shortcuts everywhere but the HEP cabinet. (And I also understand the point about stand-alone playfields clogging up the whole-game workflow.)
Quoted from Dkjimbo:For anyone here with a GNR, take note, the CPR mirrored backglass is a sight to behold! Worth every penny. Looks just as good with the machine turned on or off!
Thinking about getting one to put in a light up frame. Im a fan of the band, the back glass and the game, even though I don’t own one.
Really curious to see what needs to be done (or can be done) to one of those pixelated early 2000's Stern cabinets. If I recall correctly, Tron LE and first run Tron pros were the last games with low-res printed cabinets before the current decals were introduced.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Step 1 clean it. [quoted image]
Step 2 scuff it. [quoted image]
Clean it again. [quoted image]
Now we can paint it as needed and clear it.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Stern has the art. It's a shame they don't have the license still (or DO they?) to make replacement decals without the low-res printing. One benefit of a vault if/when it comes is decals may become available in higher res.
Quoted from PinMonk:Stern has the art. It's a shame they don't have the license still (or DO they?) to make replacement decals without the low-res printing. One benefit of a vault if/when it comes is decals may become available in higher res.
The decals from the last several runs were great resolution. Maybe a distributor could order a set. Stern has parts for lots of out of production games.
The amount of paint,shading cleaning ,techniques,air pressures, needle adjustments revising and more could never be captured here.
I will give a brief overview.
I can’t fill the cracks because I can’t sand the cabinet and the art is fragile. My aim is to camouflage them.
First blue
EF9F74FF-47A3-4992-8134-2755862D32BB (resized).jpeg55783853-D365-4ABE-8FB7-3CC140326A1C (resized).jpegA440578F-5754-408F-A50D-A64B63A87349 (resized).jpeg1B99AC60-6074-4E50-B85C-8481E169AF2D (resized).jpeg6AC80EBC-2D7F-427A-A7F7-BA840F9F2495 (resized).jpegAD958EEE-C737-46E1-8788-ABB355BBC6E1 (resized).jpeg04FE1DFA-A27E-49B6-99B6-912811125A6C (resized).jpegThen black
33B302B4-CBFE-4F81-86AC-0AD5FDD79254 (resized).jpeg0086BA3F-94BB-476D-9C81-A3FB0E46BACF (resized).jpeg7013A19C-BBF7-4642-B025-41E395C449B0 (resized).jpeg23BC6D13-20CD-4171-A86D-F8B211D84BB8 (resized).jpeg888096C1-D757-439F-997C-3450B0826A0B (resized).jpegAEC3A337-D717-406F-A33B-2B0400103721 (resized).jpegThen orange
That is the basic three straight colors.
Everything else is intermixing and heading using white,red,yellow purple
This table represents all that was used less technique.
515BC946-FF72-496E-8F20-377D115FCA4F (resized).jpeg63007F72-E9F9-47D3-AB04-70BF5538CC06 (resized).jpegimage (resized).jpgThese are the results pre clearcoating.
It gives a convincing look and should be pretty much undetectable once reassembled.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgQuoted from RC_like_the_cola:The decals from the last several runs were great resolution. Maybe a distributor could order a set. Stern has parts for lots of out of production games.
I didn't realize they upped the resolution for the replacement run TRON cabinet decals. Marco only has the head ones listed, but Stern probably has the cabinet ones in stock. I'd totally for high res replacement decals over that terrible dotty screened crap.
Quoted from PinMonk:I didn't realize they upped the resolution for the replacement run TRON cabinet decals.
Stern changed the cabinet art process entirely between Tron runs. They went from cabinets that arrived at the factory already direct-printed, to decals applied at the factory. Transformers was next, the first all-decal Stern game. Many of those wrinkled badly at the legs, hence the introduction of metal (and then cheaper plastic) cabinet protectors to keep legs from digging in. But I digress.
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