Matthews, NC
IJ KE playfield (glitter version)begins assembly
EEC1CC59-450C-472A-8743-D5965FD4FCFC (resized).jpeg481AFBBF-2D90-4D42-AF4C-1C181721F81D (resized).jpegBB146D1D-E4C0-4120-A84F-C83EAE604CBF (resized).jpeg(Topic ID: 225528)
Linked Games
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Addams Family, The
Bally, 1992
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Airborne
Capcom, 1996
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Alien (Heighway Pinball)
Heighway Pinball, 2017
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Black Knight
Williams, 1980
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Bram Stoker's Dracula
Williams, 1993
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Centaur
Bally, 1981
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Centigrade 37
Gottlieb, 1977
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Champion Pub
Bally, 1998
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EEC1CC59-450C-472A-8743-D5965FD4FCFC (resized).jpeg481AFBBF-2D90-4D42-AF4C-1C181721F81D (resized).jpegBB146D1D-E4C0-4120-A84F-C83EAE604CBF (resized).jpegQuoted from High_End_Pins:New week.
The IJ KE project should start wrapping up.
The cabinet is built and wired.
Why does the replating finish on the service outlet box look mottled in the side view pic?
Just curious but with all the years of doing this do you have a "favorite" game you like restoring and is there one you just loathe when you see it show up?
Quoted from PinMonk:Why does the replating finish on the service outlet box look mottled in the side view pic?
That’s just the texture of the metal.
These parts are nickel plated not chrome or high polished so generally whatever you start with is what you end up with texture wise using that more simplified process
This is what the box starts out looking like. image (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpg
Once plated that type of multi-metal attracts the process differently so the texture remains.
Not all are made of this material so some will look perfectly smooth but those that are still look great.
image (resized).jpgQuoted from GCS2000:Just curious but with all the years of doing this do you have a "favorite" game you like restoring and is there one you just loathe when you see it show up?
No real favorites anymore.
Games I am not usually eager to deal with but gladly do are
Safecracker for WPC-95
BSD for WPC
Medusa for Bally SS
System 80 All! 
Quoted from High_End_Pins:That’s just the texture of the metal.
These parts are nickel plated not chrome or high polished so generally whatever you start with is what you end up with texture wise using that more simplified process
This is what the box starts out looking like. [quoted image]
[quoted image]
Once plated that type of multi-metal attracts the process differently so the texture remains.
Not all are made of this material so some will look perfectly smooth but those that are still look great.
[quoted image]
Thanks for the explanation and taking time to illustrate with pictures!
Quoted from High_End_Pins:IJ KE playfield (glitter version)begins assembly
I kind of like bedazzled IJ.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:No real favorites anymore.
Games I am not usually eager to deal with but gladly do are
Safecracker for WPC-95
BSD for WPC
Medusa for Bally SS
System 80 All!
Just curious, why the dislike for system 80s?
Quoted from High_End_Pins:No real favorites anymore.
Games I am not usually eager to deal with but gladly do are
Safecracker for WPC-95
BSD for WPC
Medusa for Bally SS
System 80 All!
So you're saying there is a chance of another banzai run resto??? Lol
Quoted from KornFreak28:Interesting! Why is BSD on that list if you don’t mind me asking?
It isn’t a hard game to restore so much in a nuts and bolts sense but the way it both disassembles and reassembles , the ramps and on the back end the common problems the game faces like mist multi ball issues even when properly rebuilt make it a tougher game to get any rhythm with from a service standpoint.
Quoted from ToucanF16:Just curious, why the dislike for system 80s?
The connectors,the odd issues that pop up and the way they are built like tanks.
The brackets have brackets 
IJ KE is ready to rebuild underneath.
Will install all new orange targets. That is my preferred color for IJ.
1DE33D86-EE98-42D0-864A-FDDEDE0CB299 (resized).jpeg55807F87-CB62-4A00-B568-0F7944BB1293 (resized).jpeg6ECDA973-4312-4819-9438-E209F8941DC1 (resized).jpeg63AB68B5-2865-4866-93A3-23930E852F5F (resized).jpegQuoted from High_End_Pins:It isn’t a hard game to restore so much in a nuts and bolts sense but the way it both disassembles and reassembles , the ramps and on the back end the common problems the game faces like mist multi ball issues even when properly rebuilt make it a tougher game to get any rhythm with from a service standpoint.
For some odd reason I just knew the word ‘mist’ would be included in your response
Quoted from High_End_Pins:No real favorites anymore.
Games I am not usually eager to deal with but gladly do are
Safecracker for WPC-95
BSD for WPC
Medusa for Bally SS
System 80 All!
I vaguely recall you saying that Medusa’s playfield was jam packed, or something to that effect. That is one loaded playfield.
Ready to start wiring the IJ KE playfield.
I have already gone through the lamp and solenoid harnesses but decided to handle the switch harness as I place it because it is in such a mess that I need to map out the needed repairs.
The issues are many but it is everything from smashed wires,butt connectors,spooled areas and rubberized coatings that need to be handled in addition to the normal switch and target replacement.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgAs I start placing the switches I notice the dimples on the playfield are not ideal.
They are not as bad as some I have seen but they definitely cannot be trusted.
Here is an example
If I use these dimples to place these switches the actuators will drag the sides or stick within the cutout.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgWhen removed you can see how crucial these minor adjustments are even if it doesn’t look like much. It is the difference in the switches activating and releasing correctly.
This may be needed on each and every part which is why I would say anyone can swap a playfield but it’s these details and this extra attention that needs to be paid if you want to end up with a game that plays and works properly.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
Leduc, AB
Quoted from Rickwh:Do you ever run into the scenario when you have to fill the previous wrong hole before you can redrill. Id imagine that might be easy to “blow through” if the new hole is too close to old hole.
Occasionally I do. With the dimples it isn’t usually a big problem. What is interesting though is that if the dimples are off I prefer them to be way off so I don’t have to be quite as methodical when making the new holes.
Quoted from jaytrem:Have you gotten any rides in on your Elliptigo yet? Going to use it on trails?
A few so far. Every time I go out my wife says” There’s a heat advisory today !” 
I live within riding distance of a trail and it is my plan to try it out once things cool off and calm down.
Quoted from Stretch7:Chris, Do you do your own nickel plating? If not do you have to get all the parts cleaned & buffed first or do they do that for you?
I looked into some kits and it looks easy enough but that doesn't mean it is lol.
No I have a local place I have been using for about 12 years. They handle everything start to finish.
If things don’t turn out well in a batch I just throw them in with the next batch and they take care of it do that alone is worth the expense and better than having to do it myself.
Moe
Quoted from High_End_Pins:It isn’t a hard game to restore so much in a nuts and bolts sense but the way it both disassembles and reassembles , the ramps and on the back end the common problems the game faces like mist multi ball issues even when properly rebuilt make it a tougher game to get any rhythm with from a service standpoint.
I agree 100%. Restoring a BSD now and the playfield rebuild has a LOT of hardware, some of which is tightly packed and has to go in, in a sequential order. Challenging but satisfying watching it come together. Can easily see how it would become a chore.
The IJ KE switch harness is finally in order. Took all day to sort that thing out.
This is the trash from it. image (resized).jpg
Much improved.
EDF6430C-BAE6-47F4-913B-A1F827968EF1 (resized).jpeg112EC9AE-232C-489E-9754-AB873999393B (resized).jpeg3AA53FA9-AA40-452D-8440-69EC5D2907F1 (resized).jpeg06C436C4-6336-4671-85AC-B8D561A0B0E1 (resized).jpegD5ED2E85-A8BF-4313-B8DF-059D5A1BB269 (resized).jpeg55E2B561-1EC1-4B65-AD19-8DA0474C1729 (resized).jpegD1CD20E6-4A07-49AF-96BB-6CD682E70408 (resized).jpegContinuing to work through all the hidden surprises of the IJ KE game.
It is one thing after the other when dealing with a heavily molested turd sometimes 
First is the POA gearbox.
The opto breaking arm has been ground down.
Why? probably to make it tilt more is my best guess.
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C3ECC456-2328-4F02-A1AD-085434BFBA1A (resized).jpeg
Luckily I have a good one in my parts stash. 9F96924E-4BC0-4C88-BEB8-E50FE59F990E (resized).jpeg
Taken care of.
image (resized).jpg
Then there was the lamp panel.
I noticed it had these jumper wires going between flasher socketsC3F3E523-FD91-45EB-8575-8C755943F736 (resized).jpeg
5DB36710-3F01-487C-B228-08E329FCBFDD (resized).jpegD8BC461F-1392-498A-8521-0274DC602106 (resized).jpeg
Why?Because the wires that drive them are cut and hidden. 2E1464DB-2391-4B13-A210-8E7627E73AF6 (resized).jpeg68840C77-C664-4200-B3AC-D96BBF4E2D8E (resized).jpeg
Why did they do that?There are probably shorted transistors and those flashers were locked on would be my guess.
Fixed that.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
I also decaled the IJ MB cabinet.
This turned into a bit more work than usual.
I bought these decals from Mirco and in full disclosure he told me right up front that they had dirt in the final finish.
I told him that is fine and I would figure it out. Dirt in a finish has been a specialty of mine for like thirty years so I can see if there is any hope of salvaging them.
Here is the issue. D0C34716-40A5-49F6-978B-B5538E10B4B0 (resized).jpegF54E90A6-E289-4BE7-91EC-E1A152536710 (resized).jpeg
Once installed it almost looks like you just didn’t clean it well before applying them.
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I was prepared to do anything from sand plastic etch and reclear to removing the decals and using a different set(IPBs but they run short)
I thought I would test the waters with sanding and polishing first though.
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Yes that worked very well if you don’t mind a glossy finish.spending an extra hour or two and cleaning up compound.
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Quoted from High_End_Pins:Yes that worked very well if you don’t mind a glossy finish.spending an extra hour or two and cleaning up compound.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Hey Chris
That was pretty amazing fixing the Mirco IJ decals. That result is what separates you from the rest. I'm really curious about the grit and compound that you decided on.
Wally
Quoted from wallybgood:Hey Chris
That was pretty amazing fixing the Mirco IJ decals. That result is what separates you from the rest. I'm really curious about the grit and compound that you decided on.
Wally
Thanks Wally
I really just treated it like a fragile clearcoat and sanded it with 1500 grit only and polished it with Meguires #85
Why no love for Medusa? It’s got to be the target bank not to mention all the other items crammed onto the playfield including the zipper flippers. You are lucky there are not many left. How can it be worse than a Centaur?
Quoted from Nhpolarbear:Why no love for Medusa? It’s got to be the target bank not to mention all the other items crammed onto the playfield including the zipper flippers. You are lucky there are not many left. How can it be worse than a Centaur?
I think al the things you just mentioned are enough reason to not love working on them...... Chris is a restorer, not a collector.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Yes that worked very well if you don’t mind a glossy finish.spending an extra hour or two and cleaning up compound.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
This is what I call going above and beyond! Wow! 
Quoted from Stretch7:I had the same question Wally had, That was a very brave move but good to know it can be done.... I would have been like nope need to get new set of decals lol
There has never been any doubt in my mind that Chris is about as good as it gets when it comes to doing "finish work" with paint or paint related situations as well as being amazing with so many other things. Those of you luck enough to be able to afford his machines are truly getting work done by the best in the business. As I have said many times in the past I have a good bit of experience with auto body work and mechanical stuff and worked around the auto industry for most of the first 35 years of my life. So I realize just how good a guy like Chris is at what he does.
What I find most amazing about Chris is the fact he has attention to detail in every aspect of what he does. Most great painters I know don't do mechanical stuff or prep work - they just lay down paint. Most good mechanics I know couldn't paint a car to save their ass. And most guys who are good at mechanical stuff or body work couldn't run a business if their life depended on it. Chris seems to have mastered it all and in my eyes that is what sets him apart for the rest!
I spent Friday and Saturday finishing up my ES cabinet paint work.
This has been a pretty challenging paint job trying to stencil what is originally screen printed as close to accurately as possible.
Definitely worth the effort though
Sanded once again. Level is good now
I am breaking these post up more than normal because it is hard to rotate and place the pictures in a descriptive way with the photo issues.
5B57CA39-C11E-4803-9434-9280636FFAE1 (resized).jpeg9DAB1B2D-E517-46E8-BF51-EEF04DB4C625 (resized).jpegF2DBCAD6-7B5A-4098-A3C0-71D569B094F8 (resized).jpegMinor corrections were made details tightened up.
B50848C9-B0DE-4DE8-BC12-C1F771B436C9 (resized).jpegCF97739B-AED4-4A75-9E6F-E088C8BA1CC2 (resized).jpeg107DF6EC-6560-4B4C-8B2F-6146BE3D0E45 (resized).jpeg60F28C0C-3242-4CCC-83A1-44D24B2ACF9A (resized).jpeg5193D762-0438-4581-A2B5-B9F241C29B8D (resized).jpegC4EB0464-5EE4-4171-B13E-4359E0E26520 (resized).jpegThe final clear was applied at a 60 gloss 40 matte ratio.
Wet in these pictures
10D96FA7-ADC8-432E-A1C2-9976FDBC0377 (resized).jpegA84F94C9-381B-448D-BCE2-99FBEB878123 (resized).jpegE3AC85ED-65FF-4ED2-B930-FEBAF638E567 (resized).jpeg9BFFBA70-AF92-42F5-A8EA-50685DA71D15 (resized).jpeg7118CFE5-1F5A-4859-A502-745443938804 (resized).jpeg9BDA2B49-EFEA-41E0-A624-234976DAD579 (resized).jpeg6ADEA2FA-C236-4ADC-B578-69EAD8ADFD72 (resized).jpegFinal clear has dried overnight and the ES cabinet paint work is done.
It has a nice sheen but it isn’t too glossy which is just where I want it to be.
2DB8EABB-E1EE-48BF-A11D-BC1CEA3E6DB6 (resized).jpeg44636171-95D8-4089-B0AA-86168FC00577 (resized).jpeg844880FF-3FAB-41B0-A128-DCAE1E2B0075 (resized).jpegD74F6E0F-45BB-417E-B065-57E6578F1605 (resized).jpegB3C91746-286D-4982-993A-8D373146B505 (resized).jpeg6BF2BF90-8B99-4BDC-9CFA-AAFEE6AC2655 (resized).jpegC8AB91B0-C3C4-4739-93DF-17A7A1DDA784 (resized).jpegPromoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
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