Addams Family, The
Bally, 1992
Airborne
Capcom, 1996
Alien (Heighway Pinball)
Heighway Pinball, 2017
Black Knight
Williams, 1980
Bram Stoker's Dracula
Williams, 1993
Centaur
Bally, 1981
Centigrade 37
Gottlieb, 1977
Champion Pub
Bally, 1998Quoted from High_End_Pins:I have used that before. I prefer insulated wire though because it is less likely to short.
My best guess is that in a factory setting bare wire is much quicker and easier to deal with since they don’t have to strip it at the contact points to solder.
Thanks for your thoughts ☺️
Quoted from meSz:Like anything it's a matter of preference. If you're a purest then no the RadCals aren't for you. They're very much are visible in person as they have such a high glass finish to them as the artwork is printed on the reverse side of the plastic (forget the exact name of the material). Basically it looks as though you painted the cabinet and then put a few coats of clear-coat on it. If you scratch them, you scratch the plastic and not the artwork.
I have them on my Hobbit and they look really nice. Are they worth the price .... again up to the person buying.
What you should be really questioning is the stack of playfields that Chris has in the back of his photo. The guy is a hoarder and no wonder people are looking for playfields
There is one very big benefit of the radcals which isn’t mentioned here.
It’s like placing new decals for dummies on a cabinet. The radcals are much thicker and don’t need any special threatment of the cabinet besides being more or less flat. The thickness compensates it anyway. Also no need to remove the siderails as the are aligned against them, not under them.
Without any previous experience you will be able to have new decals on your cabinet within a matter of hours. Main work is removing the coindoor and the screws which go Through your cabinet and backbox. Once that done the placing of the radcals can be like minutes per radcal.
HS lamp panel is built.
All new sockets.
Display set.
DC8C06A3-BCF8-4B45-ABA6-63896CA43803 (resized).jpeg798A793C-A647-4472-90BF-1E008E2B0218 (resized).jpeg1BB90204-8020-431D-95F1-F8C6F0C4EE11 (resized).jpegIJ MB is being gutted.
Just about as crusty as the KE game.
Same type of concerns. Corrosion wiring issues.
3FF7C315-A393-4044-9F95-914CA492737D (resized).jpeg76C07839-69D2-49BA-9B36-4B59AF4FDE6A (resized).jpeg5A1D1C01-6E8D-4957-8F94-51E6F80A3199 (resized).jpegimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgHEP vampire slayer!
25FF916E-C9A7-47DC-9230-E153E4DCE0DB (resized).jpegC205F21A-793E-4879-A15D-684DB9D3C354 (resized).jpeg9A6AEBAF-12FE-40BA-8B64-8B1A57F94B90 (resized).jpegD5C52ABF-46BA-4A4C-87A3-D85F783E2D96 (resized).jpeg35F5E1AE-A17F-4AFA-86C3-084DAB698778 (resized).jpeg06FC88C6-055B-4CBA-8A71-AEBE3B705DD3 (resized).jpegQuoted from High_End_Pins:HEP vampire slayer!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Perfection!
There's those pearly whites!
I haven't paid a lot of attention to this new trend of adding glitter to repro playfields. Does it add any complexity to your sanding/reclearing process, or is it already locked down tight under the factory clear? Normally I'm a purist but I actually don't mind it for small pops like the lime green on IJ.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:HEP vampire slayer!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
SO much better.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:I have two more to correct.
This one is non glitter. [quoted image]
The finish has settled really hard in it. Compared to how it look when I received it in that aspect it looks horrible.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Are you fixing the Y in SHORTY on this one? (Yellow is missing on the end of the Y, revealing the whip art underneath it, inside the letter outline where the yellow should be).
IJ 2 non glitter sanded.
Willie and shorty fixed.
157B3566-7429-439A-A720-9A9BBB8E3F6B (resized).jpegE3308C9F-B478-4047-B114-AA548239F12A (resized).jpegE56A8F82-FB3B-48C9-8C0C-A9B8A96F548C (resized).jpeg2CBF2D21-359F-46A1-981F-241754346288 (resized).jpegIJ 3 glitter
Has the same settlement issues.
ABE7BD68-CDC9-4AB2-B1F7-7364C35F35EB (resized).jpeg2DCBD5B3-A71E-4996-9B8F-B029228E9194 (resized).jpeg5C0FCC91-8355-4025-8A31-31608466260F (resized).jpeg2C17B6CE-112C-4A08-B682-D50C75D55BD2 (resized).jpegIJ 3 sanded and corrected.
BEBAABA2-71F5-4E5C-BF4D-3106F03E13C3 (resized).jpeg936428FA-0EDE-49C3-8C7E-AFA6FDC12785 (resized).jpeg20A0DE32-F481-412A-A6A1-2BC8DF97BFF7 (resized).jpeg10E403CE-99D6-4C49-9F22-37830381A7F8 (resized).jpegQuoted from High_End_Pins:IJ 2 non glitter sanded.
Willie and shorty fixed.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
You're doing god's work here. Well, technically you're doing Mirco's work, but...
Quoted from PinMonk:You're doing god's work here. We'll technically you're doing Mirco's work, but...
LOL
Last playfield to prep today is the CPR High Speed.
This HS project has been a chore. Fighting me every step of the way costing me extra money etc etc but after putting so much into it I get to a point eventually where I just accept that I need to do whatever I need to do to make those struggles worth it.
In this case despite having bought another playfield and having already leveled and cleared it once the wood continues to reclaim the materials.
Sanded and ready to clear once more. That should do it it. If not then it will be as improved as possible without overclearing.
B2D4EA94-5578-4636-AE4D-D1997F29F8F8 (resized).jpegE27991D5-7C28-4E15-BA38-0AEC21D2E7A0 (resized).jpeg80E2C732-A708-477D-AC03-C83A81DC27C6 (resized).jpeg71B3EDC3-D9DE-49EB-A8F8-3995F3640D26 (resized).jpegE7E1020A-87BB-4F17-A49C-BC6CFF5EB8D2 (resized).jpegQuoted from yancy:There's those pearly whites!
I haven't paid a lot of attention to this new trend of adding glitter to repro playfields. Does it add any complexity to your sanding/reclearing process, or is it already locked down tight under the factory clear? Normally I'm a purist but I actually don't mind it for small pops like the lime green on IJ.
It doesn’t seem to cause any problems. Just another color under the clear from my experience so far.
Quoted from PinMonk:You're doing god's work here. We'll technically you're doing Mirco's work, but...
Technically he’s doing dental work.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Yes.
They would have run about an 1/8 inch or more short but what was worse is that the art didn’t match up or align.
On the left side the straight red line is much fatter than both the cabinets side one the right side front.
It just doesn’t match up to anything else for some reason.
Even if it did though I think the edges on the corners would be too thick and sharp.
These seem to work well on flat surfaces like the sides and head but meeting corners are a problem.
The decal front and beveling worked well for me but I wouldn’t want to deal with these too often.
Rather paint or decal because any work saved in prep seems to be reinvested in cutting holes or trying to get better alignment.[quoted image][quoted image]
I was one of the first people to get the IJ Radcals, will be doing my cab soon. Seen this and thought I better check!
My button holes line up perfectly luckily. Must have been a batch that had the holes cut wrong, cabs should all have the same hole location shouldn’t they?
For the last two days I have been chipping away at all the IJ mechs. It’s amazing what people call restored these days. One of these games in particular was represented as a nice example just because it had some new decals applied.
Anyway Happy Fourth everyone.
7A62FDD1-363A-432D-A200-1DD4429414E2 (resized).jpegA4741140-1EA2-402C-9AE0-D2DDC641ECD0 (resized).jpeg98AA25F1-5F52-4235-BFC6-8A882307DF30 (resized).jpeg1F87CAA0-8C05-4E44-AC43-A4B520CBECDD (resized).jpegE62A2515-1893-416C-AB43-86599D6F49A0 (resized).jpegFE622FBB-C113-4A64-97B6-A836226C09B9 (resized).jpeg6E1D761E-5DF7-4EE3-A3F8-6BEE12F256F2 (resized).jpeg6CB1E768-CD0D-4EEA-BB89-11BCF49FF7DA (resized).jpeg6EE32070-7BBB-4623-AA71-0FFBAB22B628 (resized).jpeg5B391850-D8A9-460E-9548-040FE4F4AFA1 (resized).jpeg5B8CF9FF-DD54-4471-A0F8-8837DFFEBBF7 (resized).jpeg563D1530-63DC-4E3A-9DF0-D2E24AA7FDFC (resized).jpeg5F6F9F66-34DE-4199-AA29-F2C691611389 (resized).jpeg1A50EC00-66F1-46A3-BFBB-5C032DBA81BF (resized).jpeg4C6075BF-BEFA-4A85-80F5-DEA205A2A148 (resized).jpeg9569FB21-10FA-407B-AAC9-8D71321FFC6B (resized).jpegQuoted from Pinballemporium:So much for that run yesterday. That looks great.
3 miles =1 slice of cookie cheesecake.I try not to even think about the stouts I drink 
Just keep moving it’s bound to help!
216C467D-02C0-4DAD-B2AE-4C3DBC992F67 (resized).jpeg65236AE7-775B-4912-AAEA-25E5EA346972 (resized).jpeg858FD44D-AD11-41F2-ACAC-A5A44EC41644 (resized).jpeg44729D1C-ADBF-4D17-881A-C8F98671D03A (resized).jpegI finished working through the rest of the IJ coils.
This represents two games (KE and MB)
I was able to create one nice trough with existing parts but the MB game will need a new one entirely. Just going to be better to go with a Mantis trough in that case than deal with all the rust and pitting.
2A5AC4E1-D0B0-4CB8-B457-8673FF8888B0 (resized).jpegE2E51976-C044-437A-BD60-8582F7F8F9C3 (resized).jpeg4834A98A-C729-4657-BDB0-1548FBE4B188 (resized).jpeg267E6573-A29B-47E2-9249-8ACF56090A08 (resized).jpeg769EEED8-9FC2-4902-806B-3877A9BBF53E (resized).jpeg652D77A1-A18A-4CEF-802B-2B7B1104DB00 (resized).jpeg3099D192-1040-4A5C-B1DE-4E45675EE499 (resized).jpeg80C290D4-450D-4472-A7A0-EE0D6F226221 (resized).jpeg66509408-35E9-41D6-B0AF-687BC298D682 (resized).jpeg545CD2B3-5AF1-484B-9F65-3B3DB3E3F63E (resized).jpegD005F00A-51E6-471C-8750-12CB8FE854A3 (resized).jpegThe POA were rebuilt also.
Had to drill them because I was only provided the sample version and all three of these are production versions.
Wasn’t a big deal for me but would have been more ideal if I was asked or given the option when buying as to which version I needed.
The MB game gets the custom rails as provided by the owner.
06D41F52-9116-4499-A121-3D9138A4FA3B (resized).jpeg6359F42A-846F-4A8A-8A0D-1CD2C87F4E05 (resized).jpeg8185DA58-2404-478B-ACA4-4850BB63611D (resized).jpeg97762BA5-54F2-477E-A65C-C42C750E82D4 (resized).jpegQuoted from High_End_Pins:The POA were rebuilt also.
Had to drill them because I was only provided the sample version and all three of these are production versions.
Wasn’t a big deal for me but would have been more ideal if I was asked or given the option when buying as to which version I needed.
The MB game gets the custom rails as provided by the owner.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
There was only one version available by Mirco. According to webshop, no options are available (although he promised to release a production version few weeks/months ago).
Conclusion: he was not aware that his product is based on sample design - another reason why a public design validation makes sense.
FYI: the picture issue is being worked upon
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/can-we-stop-with-the-sideways-photos
Quoted from High_End_Pins:I finished working through the rest of the IJ coils.
This represents two games (KE and MB)
I was able to create one nice trough with existing parts but the MB game will need a new one entirely. Just going to be better to go with a Mantis trough in that case than deal with all the rust and pitting.
Mantis really makes some great products.
Do you have any experience with clearcoating over sharpie. Most people say it bleeds but I did a test on a sample piece and it looks fine.
Quoted from yellowghost:Do you have any experience with clearcoating over sharpie. Most people say it bleeds but I did a test on a sample piece and it looks fine.
If you're going that road, I would think a paint pen would be more reliable long-term. Sharpie will fade, too.
Quoted from PinMonk:If you're going that road, I would think a paint pen would be more reliable long-term. Sharpie will fade, too.
I would only be using it to touch missing art on letters on inserts. But I will need to look into these " paint pens"
Quoted from yellowghost:Do you have any experience with clearcoating over sharpie. Most people say it bleeds but I did a test on a sample piece and it looks fine.
Only when clearing over signatures.
It can be hit or miss but if you you lightly dust the clear on. Let it set about 15 minutes then give a more thorough application it is usually fine.
If you are thinking about using sharpies for touch ups though I wouldn’t recommend it.
Quoted from yellowghost:The other option would be strip everything from the insert and apply a decal, I presume?
[quoted image]
Here is the thread to seek playfield restoration tips and advice:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration
High Speed and IJ KE playfields are sanded and polished ready to prep for assembly.
2AB6E462-3D32-4AF4-B989-52859AD90165 (resized).jpeg25B2A08D-0394-44C9-952F-F948DB078E08 (resized).jpegAADCB55B-9EDC-48FB-96B5-60FBD0CE1788 (resized).jpeg832C75CA-8751-45FC-9510-5A3A0816B8AC (resized).jpegimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgIJ MB and ES KW cabinets are prepped and primed.
7C1ECF96-2C0D-4B0D-9B56-3573F425F72F (resized).jpegDB27CF60-8A38-4E23-9032-3ACABE2C6739 (resized).jpegC320404C-8CB4-4306-81D0-68418CC1C0DA (resized).jpegDE173687-689D-47D8-945D-A5912EF12941 (resized).jpegA821CC4B-5267-4D60-8786-95D5D44E4571 (resized).jpegA9E103C4-91BA-4946-9036-4EA6C9E83EDF (resized).jpegThe Knockout playfield is ready for more work.
On this pass I will open up the target holes and then sand and clear once again.
Just trying to get things in place and a little closer to level right now.
Being an EM I am not after perfectly flat though.
88468332-A466-4C47-8083-C0499C085E08 (resized).jpeg533B9084-2BB7-44D8-BC63-126CC0662F66 (resized).jpegE521B6A7-3DB4-45BD-B74F-8F61931ACB78 (resized).jpegD3D6FE01-2B12-40E8-A80D-D56AAAD68342 (resized).jpeg72CABE07-9F9A-4E96-8E33-2B39F4BF5D91 (resized).jpegA718F7F6-7003-49F8-BAD3-4BC18B0FFBE8 (resized).jpeg7AF60D64-8292-4A14-BDB5-2B576417CFD4 (resized).jpegThe special ES cabinet was sanded prepped and just based for now in a shade of blue I mixed to come close to the playfield blue.
I will probably put at least the first stencil down before clearing it possibly go a bit farther just depends on how the art lays down.
E52D954C-0C88-4955-A359-60193DA9D54B (resized).jpegE13693BE-F65B-4889-9406-100A572E9F38 (resized).jpeg9B98665B-0B41-486E-8736-C8F091777B0D (resized).jpegES is pulled from the warehouse 41AFFD49-0178-4467-A5C1-7DB536E289D4 (resized).jpegimage (resized).jpg
While there I also shuffled the inventory and pulled the Cyclops which will be coming into the workspace shortly.
The way these games come in make so that the new arrivals are upfront and the older ones get closed in so every couple months I have to reshuffle the entire deck.
A6720B7A-688A-4131-9446-AE50105D3713 (resized).jpeg22774FB0-7554-474D-A563-114333621DB8 (resized).jpegWanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hep-this-week-9-17-18/page/147?hl=jaytrem and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.
Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.
Melbourne
Matthews, NC
Budapest
Winnipeg, MB