(Topic ID: 225528)

HEP This Week 8-10-2020


By High_End_Pins

1 year ago



Topic Stats

  • 7,587 posts
  • 411 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 15 hours ago by High_End_Pins
  • Topic is favorited by 419 Pinsiders

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Topic poll

“EBD Trim legs will be black regardless ”

  • Stainless/Factory 35 votes
    31%
  • Blacked out 54 votes
    48%
  • Painted Gold matched to cabinet 24 votes
    21%

(113 votes)

This poll has been closed.

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There are 7587 posts in this topic. You are on page 147 of 152.
#7301 41 days ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

I have used that before. I prefer insulated wire though because it is less likely to short.
My best guess is that in a factory setting bare wire is much quicker and easier to deal with since they don’t have to strip it at the contact points to solder.

Thanks for your thoughts ☺️

#7302 41 days ago
Quoted from meSz:

Like anything it's a matter of preference. If you're a purest then no the RadCals aren't for you. They're very much are visible in person as they have such a high glass finish to them as the artwork is printed on the reverse side of the plastic (forget the exact name of the material). Basically it looks as though you painted the cabinet and then put a few coats of clear-coat on it. If you scratch them, you scratch the plastic and not the artwork.
I have them on my Hobbit and they look really nice. Are they worth the price .... again up to the person buying.
What you should be really questioning is the stack of playfields that Chris has in the back of his photo. The guy is a hoarder and no wonder people are looking for playfields

There is one very big benefit of the radcals which isn’t mentioned here.

It’s like placing new decals for dummies on a cabinet. The radcals are much thicker and don’t need any special threatment of the cabinet besides being more or less flat. The thickness compensates it anyway. Also no need to remove the siderails as the are aligned against them, not under them.

Without any previous experience you will be able to have new decals on your cabinet within a matter of hours. Main work is removing the coindoor and the screws which go Through your cabinet and backbox. Once that done the placing of the radcals can be like minutes per radcal.

#7303 41 days ago

HS lamp panel is built.
All new sockets.
Display set.

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#7304 41 days ago

IJ MB is being gutted.
Just about as crusty as the KE game.
Same type of concerns. Corrosion wiring issues.

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#7305 39 days ago

HEP vampire slayer!

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#7306 39 days ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

HEP vampire slayer!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Perfection!

#7307 39 days ago

There's those pearly whites!

I haven't paid a lot of attention to this new trend of adding glitter to repro playfields. Does it add any complexity to your sanding/reclearing process, or is it already locked down tight under the factory clear? Normally I'm a purist but I actually don't mind it for small pops like the lime green on IJ.

#7308 39 days ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

HEP vampire slayer!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

SO much better.

#7309 39 days ago

I have two more to correct.
This one is non glitter. image (resized).jpg

The finish has settled really hard in it. Compared to how it look when I received it in that aspect it looks horrible.

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#7310 39 days ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

I have two more to correct.
This one is non glitter. [quoted image]
The finish has settled really hard in it. Compared to how it look when I received it in that aspect it looks horrible.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Are you fixing the Y in SHORTY on this one? (Yellow is missing on the end of the Y, revealing the whip art underneath it, inside the letter outline where the yellow should be).

#7311 39 days ago

IJ 2 non glitter sanded.
Willie and shorty fixed.

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#7312 39 days ago

IJ 3 glitter
Has the same settlement issues.

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#7313 39 days ago

IJ 3 sanded and corrected.

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12
#7314 39 days ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

IJ 2 non glitter sanded.
Willie and shorty fixed.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

You're doing god's work here. Well, technically you're doing Mirco's work, but...

#7315 39 days ago
Quoted from vireland:

You're doing god's work here. We'll technically you're doing Mirco's work, but...

LOL

#7316 39 days ago

Nice correction and a flat/polish. Shame it had to be done though, couldn’t be left like that.

#7317 39 days ago

Last playfield to prep today is the CPR High Speed.

This HS project has been a chore. Fighting me every step of the way costing me extra money etc etc but after putting so much into it I get to a point eventually where I just accept that I need to do whatever I need to do to make those struggles worth it.
In this case despite having bought another playfield and having already leveled and cleared it once the wood continues to reclaim the materials.

Sanded and ready to clear once more. That should do it it. If not then it will be as improved as possible without overclearing.

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#7318 39 days ago

Four playfields now ready to clear.

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#7319 39 days ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

HEP vampire slayer!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Sorry for this extra touch up

#7320 39 days ago

Playfields are cleared.

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#7321 39 days ago
Quoted from yancy:

There's those pearly whites!
I haven't paid a lot of attention to this new trend of adding glitter to repro playfields. Does it add any complexity to your sanding/reclearing process, or is it already locked down tight under the factory clear? Normally I'm a purist but I actually don't mind it for small pops like the lime green on IJ.

It doesn’t seem to cause any problems. Just another color under the clear from my experience so far.

#7322 39 days ago
Quoted from vireland:

You're doing god's work here. We'll technically you're doing Mirco's work, but...

Technically he’s doing dental work.

#7323 39 days ago

Ahh was wondering how you added the color, you cleared them as well. Looking really good.

#7324 38 days ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

Yes.
They would have run about an 1/8 inch or more short but what was worse is that the art didn’t match up or align.
On the left side the straight red line is much fatter than both the cabinets side one the right side front.
It just doesn’t match up to anything else for some reason.
Even if it did though I think the edges on the corners would be too thick and sharp.
These seem to work well on flat surfaces like the sides and head but meeting corners are a problem.
The decal front and beveling worked well for me but I wouldn’t want to deal with these too often.
Rather paint or decal because any work saved in prep seems to be reinvested in cutting holes or trying to get better alignment.[quoted image][quoted image]

I was one of the first people to get the IJ Radcals, will be doing my cab soon. Seen this and thought I better check!
My button holes line up perfectly luckily. Must have been a batch that had the holes cut wrong, cabs should all have the same hole location shouldn’t they?

#7325 37 days ago

At least Mirco has a reputation for excellent customer service and making things right......

#7326 37 days ago

For the last two days I have been chipping away at all the IJ mechs. It’s amazing what people call restored these days. One of these games in particular was represented as a nice example just because it had some new decals applied.

Anyway Happy Fourth everyone.

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#7327 37 days ago

So much for that run yesterday. That looks great.

#7328 37 days ago
Quoted from Pinballemporium:

So much for that run yesterday. That looks great.

3 miles =1 slice of cookie cheesecake.I try not to even think about the stouts I drink
Just keep moving it’s bound to help!

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#7330 37 days ago

Happy Independence Day Chris and Family!!!

#7331 36 days ago

I finished working through the rest of the IJ coils.
This represents two games (KE and MB)
I was able to create one nice trough with existing parts but the MB game will need a new one entirely. Just going to be better to go with a Mantis trough in that case than deal with all the rust and pitting.

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#7332 36 days ago

The POA were rebuilt also.
Had to drill them because I was only provided the sample version and all three of these are production versions.
Wasn’t a big deal for me but would have been more ideal if I was asked or given the option when buying as to which version I needed.
The MB game gets the custom rails as provided by the owner.

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#7333 36 days ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

The POA were rebuilt also.
Had to drill them because I was only provided the sample version and all three of these are production versions.
Wasn’t a big deal for me but would have been more ideal if I was asked or given the option when buying as to which version I needed.
The MB game gets the custom rails as provided by the owner.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

There was only one version available by Mirco. According to webshop, no options are available (although he promised to release a production version few weeks/months ago).
Conclusion: he was not aware that his product is based on sample design - another reason why a public design validation makes sense.

#7335 35 days ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

I finished working through the rest of the IJ coils.
This represents two games (KE and MB)
I was able to create one nice trough with existing parts but the MB game will need a new one entirely. Just going to be better to go with a Mantis trough in that case than deal with all the rust and pitting.

Mantis really makes some great products.

#7336 35 days ago

Do you have any experience with clearcoating over sharpie. Most people say it bleeds but I did a test on a sample piece and it looks fine.

#7337 35 days ago
Quoted from yellowghost:

Do you have any experience with clearcoating over sharpie. Most people say it bleeds but I did a test on a sample piece and it looks fine.

If you're going that road, I would think a paint pen would be more reliable long-term. Sharpie will fade, too.

#7338 35 days ago
Quoted from vireland:

If you're going that road, I would think a paint pen would be more reliable long-term. Sharpie will fade, too.

I would only be using it to touch missing art on letters on inserts. But I will need to look into these " paint pens"

#7339 35 days ago
Quoted from yellowghost:

Do you have any experience with clearcoating over sharpie. Most people say it bleeds but I did a test on a sample piece and it looks fine.

Only when clearing over signatures.
It can be hit or miss but if you you lightly dust the clear on. Let it set about 15 minutes then give a more thorough application it is usually fine.
If you are thinking about using sharpies for touch ups though I wouldn’t recommend it.

#7340 35 days ago

The other option would be strip everything from the insert and apply a decal, I presume?

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#7341 35 days ago

I've not been watching HEP threads of late, but going through this now I'm feeling like I need to strip and shop a pin. Lovely work!

#7342 35 days ago
Quoted from yellowghost:

The other option would be strip everything from the insert and apply a decal, I presume?
[quoted image]

Here is the thread to seek playfield restoration tips and advice:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration

#7343 34 days ago

High Speed and IJ KE playfields are sanded and polished ready to prep for assembly.

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#7344 34 days ago

IJ MB and ES KW cabinets are prepped and primed.

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#7345 34 days ago

The Knockout playfield is ready for more work.
On this pass I will open up the target holes and then sand and clear once again.
Just trying to get things in place and a little closer to level right now.
Being an EM I am not after perfectly flat though.

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#7346 34 days ago

The IJ MB and IJ PS playfields were also sanded and cleared once more.

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#7347 33 days ago

IJ MB cabinet was sanded prepped based and cleared.

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#7348 33 days ago

The special ES cabinet was sanded prepped and just based for now in a shade of blue I mixed to come close to the playfield blue.
I will probably put at least the first stencil down before clearing it possibly go a bit farther just depends on how the art lays down.

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#7349 33 days ago

ES is pulled from the warehouse 41AFFD49-0178-4467-A5C1-7DB536E289D4 (resized).jpegimage (resized).jpg
While there I also shuffled the inventory and pulled the Cyclops which will be coming into the workspace shortly.
The way these games come in make so that the new arrivals are upfront and the older ones get closed in so every couple months I have to reshuffle the entire deck.

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#7350 32 days ago

You have quite the backlog of work to get to.

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