(Topic ID: 225528)

HEP This Week 7-6-2020


By High_End_Pins

1 year ago



Topic Stats

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  • 402 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 14 hours ago by High_End_Pins
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Topic poll

“EBD Trim legs will be black regardless ”

  • Stainless/Factory 35 votes
    31%
  • Blacked out 54 votes
    48%
  • Painted Gold matched to cabinet 24 votes
    21%

(113 votes)

This poll has been closed.

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#7051 41 days ago
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

Just finished my #HS restore. (yes, I borrowed your stripe wrap and white Williams logo ideas) Looking forward to watching you finish up this #HS.
[quoted image]

Looks great. See you like the lighted button also.
All good improvements over the original in my eyes.

#7052 41 days ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

Looks great. See you like the lighted button also.
All good improvements over the original in my eyes.

Thanks

Yes, The lighted button is also a great improvement. I did not do the back interstate symbol, but that looks great. You have a good eye!

#7053 39 days ago

What is this type of wire/cable/cord called?
I am drawing a blank.
Looking for exactly this where it is molded together if possible.
If not I can just use a standard power cord but either way would like to know what it is called so I can source some.

image (resized).jpg
#7054 39 days ago

Looks like trailer wiring. Get it at local Auto parts store. Can't quite tell the gauge.

IMG_0245 (resized).JPG
#7055 39 days ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

What is this type of wire/cable/cord called?
I am drawing a blank.
Looking for exactly this where it is molded together if possible.
If not I can just use a standard power cord but either way would like to know what it is called so I can source some.
[quoted image]

Hey Chris
It has been hard for me to find, also. PSPA has it for $2 USD. Pre-cut for WPC-95 pins. https://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/parts-by-machine/williams-parts/medieval-madness/5797-13940-02.html
Be aware that Aus Post has been having some major problems. My last order, Mar 29, has not left Aus yet! Last update was"Cleared and awaiting international departure".
Wally

#7056 39 days ago

I think it's called "bonded parallel" or "parallel bonded" wire.

#7058 39 days ago

Thanks for the responses on that.
I ended up settling on this but might just use a power cord for my immediate needs.

https://www.boatid.com/ancor/ancor-wire-2689578624.html

#7059 39 days ago

Another Monday.
TAF (JS) is finally gutted. 613CC6E5-C8F3-4224-87BF-23288E958CC6 (resized).jpeg
I will be working through these primarily this week.
The parts the playfield wiring and the mechs. D179239D-3595-4887-A0D6-F6145A50FC87 (resized).jpeg
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In most cases it will be new parts and coils just reusing the smaller brackets,plungers if good and springs.
When I build a mech or part up for TAF(JS) I will do the same for the other game but I will only pull that part as I go to reduce clutter in the work space.

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#7060 38 days ago

Worked through the cabinet knockers.
The TAF(AA) was really bad off I didn’t even bother pulling that one just made up an all new assembly. 2B0D46D6-9075-4DA7-840E-92480B248F9B (resized).jpeg
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#7061 38 days ago

The Thing kickout scoops were equally bad.
I also got the outhole kickers done.
It feels like twice the work doing it this way and it technically is but it also makes sense when possible.

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#7062 38 days ago

Then into the power boxes.
Both these TAFs use the older plastic cup and through style power cord set ups. DE5BF280-0A92-47CE-B512-3D90EAC43827 (resized).jpeg55890F6D-BB70-4786-96CE-2E18C3911AEB (resized).jpeg
My new cabinets have the squared receptacle style holes which is not wrong at all but wrong for these so I will convert.
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Another issue that I run into on games right around this period that use the stand up power box but the old style small leg plates is that I must relocate the switch in the box in order to slide it over enough to clear the wider leg plate. F4D4A6C2-6356-47ED-BA5B-D4B81BA4AB32 (resized).jpeg

These will get plated boxes with new fuse holders,power outlets,switches,line filters,Vari stir,thermistor. It’s also going to require new receptacle boxes,power entry,cords and boots.
Simple manufacturing changes can create minor headaches along the way.

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#7063 38 days ago

Those are built then placed. 991A51C4-204C-45AD-85F6-054684D9F6E1 (resized).jpeg
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image (resized).jpg
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They easily clear the leg plates now image (resized).jpg

#7064 37 days ago

Slow progress on the TAFs.
I try to tackle all the worst parts first.
The Thing mechs are done and the bookcases.

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#7065 37 days ago

Both TAF cabs are now gutted and out of the way.
One dessert beer per cabinet

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#7066 37 days ago

The cabinet assembly room is starting to look a lot better now. All three cabinets have transformers and power boxes.
Received another TAF topper(at my expense) it looks nice a little clearer than the previous but no issues.

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#7067 37 days ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

The cabinet assembly room is starting to look a lot better now. All three cabinets have transformers and power boxes.
Received another TAF topper(at my expense) it looks nice a little clearer than the previous but no issues.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Is it the angle or are those toppers different molds as well? At first glance they look different

#7068 36 days ago

Are these the HEP treatment too!

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#7069 36 days ago
Quoted from heni1977:

Are these the HEP treatment too!
[quoted image]

No that’s just Curtis Corona Paranoia.
When he buys the baby toys they must be quarantined a few days before he opens them and disinfects.
Couldn’t hurt.

#7070 36 days ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

No that’s just Curtis Corona Paranoia.
When he buys the baby toys they must be quarantined a few days before he opens them and disinfects.
Couldn’t hurt.

Better safe than sorry. At least he's making an effort. Some of these people I see on TV, I just SMH.

#7071 36 days ago

TAF progress report for the day.
The TAF(AA) is starting to emerge as the worst of the two as it unfolds.
Highlights are
Mangled ball guides. ABD914F2-6C42-445F-B20D-AE536B0B4297 (resized).jpeg44C1B69E-C9FB-411E-A3A4-672B645DD044 (resized).jpeg
Even missing ones. This one was no where to be found had to make it. 93E46D61-2AC6-4F95-BD73-07F54E54E10D (resized).jpeg
B4AD8D6A-B3C6-4097-8C11-563E7D2B1B60 (resized).jpeg

Scoops held together with gasket maker/silicone
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After straightening and evaluating the best course at this point is probably powder coating because when stainless gets chewed up it can be very tough to get it back to a point where there isn’t a mark or gouge left behind without sometimes going too deep making it too thin. BD2C595A-C57F-48DC-BB38-1988042022A3 (resized).jpeg

I gather everything up for both games inventory it and off to powder it goes.

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#7072 36 days ago

The chairs were also refinished today and rebuilt.

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#7073 36 days ago

You fixing the broken scoops, or replacing?

—Donnie

#7074 36 days ago
Quoted from djb_rh:

You fixing the broken scoops, or replacing?
—Donnie

Replacing those for sure. I did find a free mini screwdriver in there though. 2D7D9E54-872A-42E6-878B-3B5A0EC4C725 (resized).jpeg
Going to tumble it might make it into the tool drawer.
image (resized).jpg

#7075 36 days ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

Replacing those for sure. I did find a free mini screwdriver in there though. [quoted image]
Going to tumble it might make it into the tool drawer.
[quoted image]

Bet a previous owner looked around for hours for that screwdriver!

#7076 36 days ago

Neat little screwdriver, looks like a brass handle.

#7077 35 days ago

TAF update. Mini factory mode. Pulled one set of coils. 2D08648F-DC64-4114-A1DA-AC1100FECF97 (resized).jpeg
Will copy those in doubles with all new coils plated brackets etc. FC65B43E-B9E4-4ED9-919E-6CFB0A9E27D9 (resized).jpeg
I start with the jet bumpers set up In the natural layout.

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#7078 35 days ago

Wired those up color correct v

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#7079 35 days ago

Did a dessert flight with Curtis. It is little Friday.

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#7080 35 days ago

Love that idea of mounting the brackets to wood to work on them!

#7081 34 days ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

Did a dessert flight with Curtis. It is little Friday.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Those sound like great stouts!

#7082 33 days ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

Replacing those for sure.

I can weld them and never had one fail, but I'm guessing it's not worth it to even bother. The process just uses a mapp gas torch which is cheap enough, but the rod is a rod/flux combo that's pretty dang expensive. Pretty comfortable that it's more solid than it was new, but it's definitely not as pretty under there.

--Donnie

#7083 31 days ago

Another Monday is here and I am still working through the TAFs.
These were just beat cosmetically and mechanically in every possible way so it means building brand new games essentially using a little bit of the old stuff and a lot of new stuff.
I finished working through the coil assemblies.
That is a lot.
8 flippers,10 jet bumpers ,6 sling style ,8 kick outs/overs.

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#7084 31 days ago

Then I did all the targets.

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#7085 31 days ago

Then onto the plastics
One thing I really don’t like on TAF is the style of flasher sockets they use in some areas.
They are a total pain to change bulbs in once the game is assembled.
With the domes riveted directly to the socket housing the only access is underneath. 60ED1298-2E01-4686-845B-858B3FA49122 (resized).jpeg

49D7A568-B3A3-4D9C-91FB-5317E25046D0 (resized).jpeg
What I prefer is the twist in dome that makes it possible to change the bulb from up top.
I trace that style out on the plastic. 392891BE-21FB-47B0-B032-AD13E7A97B59 (resized).jpeg
Then carefully cut a new larger footprint. 57B828B4-B73A-49DD-9C01-D6CBA5802B5C (resized).jpeg

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Now I can install the preferred socket. 4686FA95-42F5-4928-A6FB-803BBB7A0187 (resized).jpeg
It rivets in the same place as the original but is a much better fit and easy to maintain. 092FAF9C-C338-4BE8-AFE6-7D7290D97AB1 (resized).jpeg
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#7086 31 days ago

That is done to all applicable plastic assemblies.

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#7087 31 days ago

Good call on those.... I was thinking the same thing on last 2 I did but didn't have the guts to do it, well and not enough enough parts on hand lol

#7088 31 days ago

I can imagine why the originals were riveted on a location beast like TAF. I've seen those twist-on flasher domes pop off. Better to have a dead flasher than a dome blocking the drain. For collectors and home use I'd rather be able to change a bulb without tools.

#7089 31 days ago
Quoted from yancy:

I can imagine why the originals were riveted on a location beast like TAF. I've seen those twist-on flasher domes pop off. Better to have a dead flasher than a dome blocking the drain. For collectors and home use I'd rather be able to change a bulb without tools.

Except: TZ, which _followed_ TAF, used the twist-ons (for which I've always been grateful).

#7090 31 days ago

Interesting, maybe it was in response to operator complaints about bulbs being too hard to change. Come to think of it, every TAF I played on location was dark.

#7091 31 days ago

Chris, Off current topic post. Where do you source your sandpaper discs? Local, or someplace online?

#7092 31 days ago

Spent some time in the paint shop this afternoon.
Finishing the final steps on some playfields Nd parts then just starting others
I will begin with the new playfield in the mix.
It is for my upcoming Bally Knockout project.
This is a NOS playfield but likely a blank,sample or reject.
Whatever it is or isn’t it is a better place to start than the original and it can be made into something worth using.
72CB6686-054C-4CED-B23E-CE14F75FB9F8 (resized).jpeg
It has some storage scratches and cracking in the finish but it’s 40 something years old so it is expected. 62C86963-73D7-44F6-9B84-CED35A6120DB (resized).jpeg

The insert rollovers are filled in with cores. They will probably push out easy enough. They are also orange but I notice pictures online of them in green normally. CB56807E-CF74-465E-ADC8-E8DBDAC9E0EC (resized).jpeg
First I want to remove all of them during the initial prep and clear stages because too much clear ruins them. With 12 of them in place that would really be a nightmare. 5ECF636A-77F9-479E-8ED8-63D7FBAF65FF (resized).jpeg

I index these before I pull them because there will be some art on each on and that needs to line back up when reinserted

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#7093 31 days ago

They are then removed without issue.
I have my little homemade tools for that. 6CB2AE01-F063-4438-B92B-97293230B3DB (resized).jpeg

After removal I tape them where they were to further make certain I have them exactly where and how they belong later.
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F8A958E7-1FF4-4C68-B4E7-D3E4BDB3E348 (resized).jpeg
Now It can be prepped.

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#7094 31 days ago

Knockout is now cleared for the first time. 30A7C5E3-1CE9-4D5C-806B-E37DF5893DF0 (resized).jpeg

It is just a thin coat to protect it because there are things that need to be drilled and even cut out like these target through holes.

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#7095 31 days ago

Next up is my HS playfield.
This is a complicated story.

First off when the game came in months ago there was just 1 playfield left at CPR and it was noted as a gold but with some minor insert flaws in a few green inserts.
It was sold at a reduced price so there was nothing underhanded about it.
I was glad to get it compared to trying to deal with the original. 6F9BDFFD-4C29-4C30-B9B7-562356402E7D (resized).jpeg28BC83DB-B4A7-464B-9AC5-5703DC574065 (resized).jpeg
It actually has what I refer to as solvent pop. This is when the clear gets over applied the surface skims over and the wet layer is trapped beneath leading to trapped solvents and then without anywhere to “gas off” the solvents evaporate below the top layer leading to a small white hazed look.
873CC00A-5499-4321-AEEF-59E3C5C1F4ED (resized).jpeg
The inserts in question probably fell victim to this over application as well. 54935BE6-36B9-47B8-B339-934869D1B8C6 (resized).jpegAF90DFBD-5BF7-4E5E-80E2-435047031921 (resized).jpeg
Fast forward a couple weeks ago while still working on the project I see they released more HS playfields so out of my own pocket I grabbed a better one. AEFC068E-BFD0-4F6B-87A7-05691C4C4473 (resized).jpeg
No insert issues but an enormous amount of material has been reclaimed back into the natural wood fibers. A46FBA4E-0553-4BB2-9DC0-14F73072AD6D (resized).jpeg

#7096 31 days ago

That was sanded and recleared. Nothing more needed so it was a definite upgrade over the previous one.

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#7097 31 days ago

Then there was the playfield for the TAF AA game.
It is a Mirco.
It has been allowed to cure and shift as much as possible over the months. 259426AC-A7A6-4521-9B86-EBF66A38C320 (resized).jpeg91D8D778-7C3B-4D71-B88B-6AEA2D633CDF (resized).jpeg
It’s sanded then cleared. 47E59419-FEA1-453C-B989-833D97AC376D (resized).jpeg

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#7098 31 days ago

Last there were aprons.
TAF and HS.

TAFs were rough so decaling will be the best option right now. 3896A1F8-2123-445D-87F3-8EAEDC027FD8 (resized).jpeg
DD4ED753-D537-448B-AA1A-6D3B8160E646 (resized).jpeg

The HS apron is a bit more complex.
I bought a new one 4A20DA3F-5A91-4F06-84AE-3149308A4310 (resized).jpeg
But the colors suck. It looks so washed out and pale compared to the original I can’t stand to use it. 40529158-8F57-4E80-BA3F-FA8EB41E8F16 (resized).jpeg
The original is much more red and golden yellow like the cabinet. I was able to pull the decal that was on there so I can rework it. 4847F36E-AA81-4B37-B80A-63B75D58184B (resized).jpeg

#7099 31 days ago

The aprons were sanded based in black and cleared. C4AFE2CC-9F10-4AC0-B84D-3FF289F5E10F (resized).jpeg658DC04F-D72F-45EA-ACD2-BE94838E54E1 (resized).jpeg

C5CEE77E-D8B1-49DD-91D1-71BA53EEA60A (resized).jpeg
The HS apron looks like it will be usable but will need a little more work starting with repainting the shooter rod cover.

A237F35F-93AF-4D6A-AE73-FE07376C7B23 (resized).jpeg
#7100 31 days ago
Quoted from epeabs:

Chris, Off current topic post. Where do you source your sandpaper discs? Local, or someplace online?

Woodcraft for the Festool sandpaper
Local automotive paint supplier for the 3M papers.
The Festool paper is good for all the rough grits up to 400
From 400 on 3M is preferred.

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