Nice and subtle!
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Ready to close the playfield out as well.
Sanded and wood grained with the suggested tool. [quoted image]
I played around with that for a while and through some various techniques and methodically sanding /blending I got a more subtle look
I will see how this looks once cleared but should be a bit more realistic looking. No doubt there will be some anomalies in the pattern but hopefully it will give an illusion of grain.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Are you putting the rest of the lettering back in the Gottlieb logo by her feet?
I don't know how paint flows with a rubber stamp, but you could use a vector of the lettering to have a $20 stamp made and then stamp the lettering onto the proper place. I made a quick vector PDF of the top part (with all the bumps and mistakes in the paint lines) to give you an idea. Most of the factory errors in the text lines disappear when you scale it down to actual size anyway.
Logo_test.pdfQuoted from PinMonk:Are you putting the rest of the lettering back in the Gottlieb logo by her feet?
I don't know how paint flows with a rubber stamp, but you could use a vector of the lettering to have a $20 stamp made and then stamp the lettering onto the proper place. I made a quick vector PDF of the top part (with all the bumps and mistakes in the paint lines) to give you an idea. Most of the factory errors in the text lines disappear when you scale it down to actual size anyway.[quoted image]
No stuff like that is too small to mask off,too small to stencil and paint usually bleeds out
I had to decide if I wanted to freshen that area up and lose the small letters or leave it as is.
I left it as is at first but it was just too aged looking and obvious not to address so I did what would have the cleanest look given the choices and limitations.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:No stuff like that is too small to mask off,too small to stencil and paint usually bleeds out
I had to decide if I wanted to freshen that area up and lose the small letters or leave it as is.
I left it as is at first but it was just too aged looking and obvious not to address so I did what would have the cleanest look given the choices and limitations.
But you can't use a rubber stamp with black paint? Too much bleeding? What about a reverse stamp, laying down black and stamping white paint to make the letters? Then you can feather the white into the rest of the cloud in the open area...
logo_city-state.pdf
Trim is cleared in the same matte finish as it was before. Just a shade darker this time 8A151A9D-61A6-46D3-B12F-9D9C311E1195 (resized).jpegDC5FE33D-C910-4D8C-8359-B8E67852FF86 (resized).jpeg24F7D4BB-0A12-47D5-851E-BAE5F1D53189 (resized).jpeg
Playfield is cleared. Wood grain is subtle but looks pretty natural overall it is a little more sparse around the art because it is hard to get too close on those areas without overlap.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Trim is cleared in the same matte finish as it was before. Just a shade darker this time [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Playfield is cleared. Wood grain is subtle but looks pretty natural overall it is a little more sparse around the art because it is hard to get too close on those areas without overlap.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
That graining tool really helped the overall look.
Chris,
Do you sand the clear coat you apply over the base before you stencil and paint the stencil colors? If so what grit do you use and how much sanding?
Also, how do you prep the (sanded) clear before applying the stencils to get it ready for the next paint? Do you use Naptha to clean the surfaces before painting?
Thanks
Quoted from PinMonk:But you can't use a rubber stamp with black paint? Too much bleeding? What about a reverse stamp, laying down black and stamping white paint to make the letters? Then you can feather the white into the rest of the cloud in the open area...
[quoted image]
It sounds like a good idea. If I were doing these often I would definitely try it.
Quoted from meSz:Chris what's your thoughts on the results of the wood grain? Sure pictures don't show how good/bad it looks in person so curious for your thoughts on that and as to what beer is "on tap" for this evening![quoted image]
I was pretty happy with the wood grain. It was my first time out with that so no doubt I can get better at it but it definitely added a more convincing look.
I am used to dealing with wood tones on a small scale but the Woodrail needed so much natural wood work that it was much harder to both cover the wear/damage and retain enough natural grain.
The added step suggested by Skip helped bridge what I was able to salvage and what was lost.
Tonight’s beer is the illusive Yellow Belly final batch.
It comes from the UK in a scary looking bottle but it is a great Imperial Stout.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:It comes from the UK in a scary looking bottle but it is a great Imperial Stout.
That' a weird one, looks more like it came from the KKK. Could definitely see it raising some eyebrows.
The graining and aging you did on the home stretch with that playfield took it to another level. Perfect amount of graining, subtle, perfect colors, A +++
A new week once again. I fell a little short of last weeks goals in some ways like not getting the TAFs gutted
31FDAC7A-05EE-4F1A-94CF-946B91C2D310 (resized).jpeg
But there are always things that get in the way. The need to paint the trim for those coupled with the Woodrail cabinet painting and some time wasting tech issues on the BK were just enough to make that impossible last week. This week is looking much better for that.
Start the day off with a quick workout. I am back to cardio in the mornings right now until a wrist injury heals then I can look at the weights again. I will probably lose some weight and strength but it is necessary if I want to be able to get back to it pain free.
33B939DC-D734-4E1D-8C90-F4086B4AF52C (resized).png
The trim is glued on the Woodrail
D1853C1C-B7FC-46B8-841B-BE175F6EC832 (resized).jpeg
I placed the glass when I did that to make sure it will fit. Couldn’t imagine a worse scenario than it being too tight.Left a tiny gap where the bar meets the rails for now for the same reasons.
35B53E99-E79D-4E07-A646-45B1A06D67EA (resized).jpeg
Woodrail is up on legs now so I can free up a dolly.
For some reason all the picture load sideways lately and I have to rotate them. Is that happening for other people also?
Quoted from jaytrem:That' a weird one, looks more like it came from the KKK. Could definitely see it raising some eyebrows.
But... your avatar...
Quoted from High_End_Pins:For some reason all the picture load sideways lately and I have to rotate them. Is that happening for other people also?
Yessir
Quoted from radium:But... your avatar...
Yeah, it has crossed my mind that somebody might get the wrong idea.
Quoted from jaytrem:Yeah, it has crossed my mind that somebody might get the wrong idea.
I am going to nickname that beer “The Jaytrem Sipper”
When I got it the first time it didn’t have the wrapper. Store probably took it off but it is from the UK so I don’t really know what the intent was. Might come across differently there than over here.
Went through the lower panel on the Woodrail.
Not to an extreme level just replacing things that are obviously cooked and installing a new three prong cord.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:If anyone can point me in the right direction on that it would be much appreciated.
This thread has some pictures that can help. Scroll down a bit.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/lady-robin-hood-mystery-plug
LTG : )
Quoted from LTG:This thread has some pictures that can help. Scroll down a bit.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/lady-robin-hood-mystery-plug
LTG : )
Thanks Lloyd.That helps a bunch. Must be missing a few things.
I will probably rig it to at least slide and return properly and see if I can hunt anything down.
If were looking what is that coin unit called?
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Cleaned and polished the 5 cent mech. It seems to be missing a spring or perhaps a plate/part here.
Can’t find a picture of one.
If anyone can point me in the right direction on that it would be much appreciated.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Hope these help.
20200518_193944 (resized).jpg20200518_194023 (resized).jpg20200518_193954 (resized).jpg20200518_194010 (resized).jpgQuoted from High_End_Pins:Cleaned and polished the 5 cent mech. It seems to be missing a spring or perhaps a plate/part here.
Can’t find a picture of one.
If anyone can point me in the right direction on that it would be much appreciated.
[quoted image][quoted image]
I think that was put together wrong. Pretty sure this is the same assembly.
ABT Mfg. 5 Cent Push Coin Mechanism
ABT Mfg. 5 Cent Push Coin Mechanism nickel-assembly1.jpgnickel-assembly2.jpgQuoted from setzkor:This looks to be a similar unit...
ebay.com link
That one is much different. Look at the trim plate top edge. His is stair step there, that one is round. It's also a completely different manufacturer.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Thanks Lloyd.That helps a bunch. Must be missing a few things.
I will probably rig it to at least slide and return properly and see if I can hunt anything down.
If were looking what is that coin unit called?
Check with Crow River Trading. They know all about these
Quoted from edward472:Check with Crow River Trading. They know all about these
http://www.crowriver.com/coinop/
Man's name is Roger, super nice guy.
LTG : )
Quoted from jsf24:Hope these help.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Thanks.
I am better off than I thought then.
Seem to just be missing the switch arm. Probably why they closed it.
Will that maintain credits(free play)?
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Thanks.
I am better off than I thought then.
Seem to just be missing the switch arm. Probably why they closed it.
Will that maintain credits(free play)?[quoted image][quoted image]
yes it should maintain free play/credits if you leave the contacts closed. Just make sure the coin slide lines up directly with the reset arm and doesn't need the offset of the switch arm.
I probably have a couple spares if your customer prefers to have it set up for coin. let me know and I will take a look.
Quoted from jsf24:yes it should maintain free play/credits if you leave the contacts closed. Just make sure the coin slide lines up directly with the reset arm and doesn't need the offset of the switch arm.
Great. Will I actually need the lock out coil at all then?
I will of course safely terminate the wires.
They want free play only and that is probably why this stuff was disabled.
I would like to put it back complete from a restoration stand point but really don’t need to.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Great. Will I actually need the lock out coil at all then?
I will of course safely terminate the wires.
They want free play only and that is probably why this stuff was disabled.
I would like to put it back complete from a restoration stand point but really don’t need to.
[quoted image][quoted image]
I believe the answer is yes however I'm not entirely sure you may be able to bypass.
These I can restore as I go.
That means as parts are removed I deal with them 8EF8ECF0-193C-4C64-9295-C1FF1A20413C (resized).jpeg
A8F09792-BEC2-49B6-B3BE-154BD2296871 (resized).jpeg
A3AF8193-A7F8-4B03-AB24-DF46801B3C2B (resized).jpeg
Painted everything removed.
I will let the parts painted dry overnight and the metal tumble that long as well.
Then reassemble and move to the next parts. That is crucial when doing two at a time so it doesn’t get overwhelming 6CD8376B-CE46-4B93-82BF-2E83BEF6DBCA (resized).jpeg52137431-918D-4780-9453-88F8C2C97F73 (resized).jpeg077C3BF4-D0AB-461B-A9CE-FC3482FF85D5 (resized).jpeg
Woodrail playfield is sanded and polished using a bit coarser grits ,polish and pad.
This is to try and keep the gloss in check since matte clear is not a good alternative on playfields due to the inability to sand and polish it.
The holes need to be refinished from the back. This needs to happen after polishing so they will be clean. That is done with the cabinet main color. 83C4ECAB-37F8-449B-8107-31A14E9C4ED5 (resized).jpeg
F098A740-C216-47EA-99AB-9A6F9C2066E9 (resized).jpeg
Playfield is all set. It should dull out a little bit more as it cures further during the assembly process.Normally I would wait a week or so before I polish to avoid that but in this case it is something I want.
The numbers all have a nice aged look to them and it’s as far as I could stand to take it.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Woodrail playfield is sanded and polished using a bit coarser grits ,polish and pad.
This is to try and keep the gloss in check since matte clear is not a good alternative on playfields due to the inability to sand and polish it.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
That graining tool is magic.
Quoted from JWJr:Lining up the screw heads. OMG.
and that, my friends, is the HEP difference! That would drive me crazy!
Chirs
Quoted from JWJr:Lining up the screw heads. OMG.
I can appreciate this. Unfortunately, I do the same thing to all of the screws on my lightswitch and power outlet covers in my house. It drives me crazy if they are not lined up. Stupid little thing... lol
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