Topic index (key posts)

210 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

Now I can repaint any issues that remain.
It is definitely less and less as this continues but some colors will benefit most from being redone entirely others can be isolated to just the effected shapes.
These are just the highlights of what is needed.
They range from obviousA9556C2D-002B-44CA-8913-055980777F30 (resized).jpeg
4CEFBC9F-E821-46DE-8F2C-AEFB7EE939E7 (resized).jpeg
0545B4EB-14C7-431F-A221-C78FDDE7D2C4 (resized).jpeg
4022F91A-2B97-46EE-BCD2-9411D9685D7F (resized).jpeg
To much more subtle things like a real minor break through or a smear.
The reality is regardless of how major or minor it looks the work needed is the same. The entire shape must be masked and repainted.

8167D207-4DC9-4E48-8A38-42B392EA255D (resized).jpeg

FF1D832B-34E1-4CF3-A7E6-1EA843F37F95 (resized).jpeg

F668A4CE-9A1F-436F-A9AA-2E484509113D (resized).jpeg

I will use a variety of tapes for different effects. CA54C927-E566-4672-A2AD-9FF5BD432076 (resized).jpeg
Some will give me a very sharp definitive edge. C547BC79-3E24-4C7D-B511-2F78EA92C37E (resized).jpeg
Others will give me a softer more authentic looking edge for the sake of looking more era correct. 9A2CEB90-9828-4CA9-9AE3-AF8F771B6AEF (resized).jpeg
When the tape is run I decide what type of edge I want and tape accordingly.
The yellow will give me a sharp line but not entirely.
A92094EF-B738-47CE-8210-CE78BDF6A493 (resized).jpeg
The green will give the fuzzier line. 8A8A7244-BC94-4FE5-90EE-56B7D1A1360D (resized).jpeg
The blue tapes will give the sharpest cleanest lines. C6B7D503-0561-4379-B748-B43A7D45614F (resized).jpeg
I choose based on things that are hard to convey but I have an idea of what lines and colors will do best with sharper or fuller lines to look as original as possible but nicer.

The teal is done 78510914-D500-497A-8CB0-92244CF46735 (resized).jpeg73A667CD-D44A-41D8-99B6-062E46F8B62A (resized).jpeg7D1D40C0-7E98-4225-A36F-82607FEB5A25 (resized).jpeg
Then the black 32EEB7A0-0E4C-4798-B744-70C7D8C257FC (resized).jpeg
85E117BF-BDC3-498E-BC55-9419D04DDB40 (resized).jpeg
3E9FBD71-C9AD-4A67-9742-1BC44C8D5A2F (resized).jpeg
DF380371-0614-43BC-9794-7614E0A29172 (resized).jpeg
Then the yellow. That color is really time consuming to mask on this.

D623771D-DDE9-47BD-ADF5-7439D7F94C23 (resized).jpeg

A9E4E7D7-3A3A-4882-B5C2-6C65882D01FE (resized).jpeg

CAEB1784-F0B5-40B5-8151-73F9C2174310 (resized).jpeg

2750BA6D-0DD6-48B6-8289-3372F2CAD59C (resized).jpeg

D70CFCFA-5CED-4AFE-805B-5822DA52D62E (resized).jpeg

263EE0D5-79FF-49EA-87C2-0474AC4CE5AD (resized).jpeg

Chris you lost your Eastern viewers and did you forget to take a beer brake this evening?

Now unmasked and ready to clear once again.

51A61F5B-0E63-44DA-AF77-A4711BDB39B7 (resized).jpeg

6FE0AAC9-8818-4441-B096-13D8BEAF4E50 (resized).jpeg

886C15DE-9C8D-45A3-A1F4-9E16B9853297 (resized).jpeg

116B6438-47F6-4903-A1E9-7A58CB5436B6 (resized).jpeg

I'm kinda surprised you didn't just go back and paint it from scratch... vs the repeated clean-up passes. Use that new printer and just stencil from scratch. This one has seemed to eat more time than most cabinets!

Cleared.

34487200-FED5-47C5-967E-844A2A056953 (resized).jpeg

BC9A337F-9AE4-47BF-8FAC-61022C3E03F4 (resized).jpeg

D5349361-E4B2-4339-AD24-060D15FCB530 (resized).jpeg

785BD708-7309-45BE-9033-AB185E804379 (resized).jpeg

0A8D219E-4033-475D-ACE7-26377F1D1909 (resized).jpeg

CA061DEA-DA9B-4E2A-BD23-F3F2936AED71 (resized).jpeg

33BC279F-28EC-45EE-9EE3-F8B69ED14C1E (resized).jpeg

4E8C9EFA-D1DA-4878-BE5B-B523B209590F (resized).jpeg

55F4CDF0-181F-419B-9412-3C119834E8FD (resized).jpeg

1F1947B7-21C8-4A38-8CC3-0503DE7E71C0 (resized).jpeg

A5133A03-0C8B-4F74-BB77-F0F269750DAB (resized).jpeg

77C11508-A784-4FC5-A950-BF98BA90D810 (resized).jpeg

FD5CC19C-FF58-408B-8595-031D044175B9 (resized).jpeg

C8D770B3-0F06-4274-8626-CCECD0238312 (resized).jpeg

Quoted from meSz:
Chris you lost your Eastern viewers and did you forget to take a beer brake this evening?

Of course not

32333F3B-8FED-46D3-91C7-B9301D446BAD (resized).jpeg

Quoted from flynnibus:
I'm kinda surprised you didn't just go back and paint it from scratch... vs the repeated clean-up passes. Use that new printer and just stencil from scratch. This one has seemed to eat more time than most cabinets!

Spending hours with a scanner,at the computer,weeding stencils,placing transfer film, stripping the cabinet,priming the cabinet,sanding the cabinet,basing the cabinet,placing stencil 1,placing stencil 2 ,placing stencil 3,clearing the cabinet,
Sanding the cabinet,eliminating the hard lines,Masking then repainting the break throughs,clearing the cabinet
Sanding the cabinet ,matte clearing the cabinet.

Or this method?
Not too much difference really when you factor in the time spent on the stencil side and really you still end up manually painting anyway if you are trying to do really fine paint work.

I hope the owner understands the amount of work you put in on this cabinet. Mind boggling to say the least.

OP
Quoted from High_End_Pins:
I would keep an eye on EBay.
That is where I found mine.

Thanks, will keep my eyes posted.

Thanks as always for sharing your work Chris. Feels like there's been a big emphasis on painting pictures lately, which is a lot of fun. Honestly, I don't know what I look forward to most: Pin work, beer, food, or Maverick!

One question that's been on my mind: Any close calls or problems when taking pictures of the finished product outside? I'd be nervous that a fast moving storm or a bit of bird poop would drop right on the exposed playfield.

Maverick needs a small stamp of a paw print to go on the official sign off sticker in the cabinet. After all he is over seeing all the work.

Quoted from chad:
Maverick needs a small stamp of a paw print to go on the official sign off sticker in the cabinet. After all he is over seeing all the work.

That could easily be done with an ink stamper once one print is made with the real paw to make the stamp. That would be a hilarious detail.

Quoted from chad:
Maverick needs a small stamp of a paw print to go on the official sign off sticker in the cabinet.

Chris will only do that if he ever restores a Data East Maverick pinball.

I have been following this thread for weeks, maybe months. I only want to se how it goes with that old pinball game the neighbours brought in. What is it called, woodrail?
I hope it will turn out great and that the owners will be pleased. My favourite project by far.

Put some time in the wood rail playfield now that the cabinet is in a reasonable place.
Started with the remaining “white “ work. BFF021C6-274B-47FA-B826-9C6A94423232 (resized).jpeg38FCF48A-03A7-4768-BEEB-7DA0548F8967 (resized).jpeg
Then moved to the face work.
I know going in this is a tough fix because the colors will float on the surface.
I am going to have to accept that and see how it comes together
First to match the aged look as well as I can. That will make it possible to only paint the Wear.
Color one
I come up with this. 7BF59E4F-49CC-4224-B96D-F4C0CEBE1437 (resized).jpeg
Mask and spray very sparingly. 858887F1-F63D-46ED-9F30-202370C6427D (resized).jpeg
Then color two
A bit tougher to match but I final get a reasonable match for the purpose. B897E91A-4F6A-480E-9FEF-115C69045552 (resized).jpeg
Check it in contrast to color one. 50D8B345-4812-4D09-87F1-179103C1BC25 (resized).jpeg
Mask and spray. C93524E8-7DC0-43EC-A0E6-902804AA7A04 (resized).jpeg
Then some yellow work.

6289953A-5E7B-4F1C-B99F-C4E84A20293C (resized).jpeg

Now with the repaints and details done I want to age everything in a uniform way.
99489594-232B-4FD2-B3B4-6E9B7C18A8FC (resized).jpeg
I discovered with some experimentation that the water based dye I used to stain the trim does a nice job of blending everything together in an aged way and that by coating the playfield with it the natural wood I had to frost can be moved a little closer in the color family of the wood trim.
1419CD86-512C-4357-9698-BFDF5D2A91AC (resized).jpeg
I wipe the entire playfield with it and let it set a few
D7D8D944-91F0-4D4F-BD20-1589342ABF0C (resized).jpeg
Then I wipe it back off and lightly wipe the playfield down with the water based cleaner only.
This has further enhanced the natural wood as well as possible and given a more uniform look to everything by turning the fresher off white down getting it closer to the white details too small to fully repaint. D5BA6DDD-F38B-47D8-BB95-00868A39010C (resized).jpeg

Should be ready to clear now.

962ED871-B3DE-4142-A14C-209A1551A160 (resized).jpeg

OP
Quoted from High_End_Pins:
Now with the repaints and details done I want to age everything in a uniform way.

I know this project is a pain in the butt for you, but you should take on at least one a year. It's one of the most interesting, if not THE most interesting, to follow.

Chris, That playfield looks insanely good now. I hated the lighter look and was wondering how you were going to address that. It is over the top nice now!

This dude is a warlock.

Woodrail playfield is cleared again.
Took a couple steps in the right direction.
I am probably going to sand it and age it one more time after this now that all the art is about where it should be. 53276C9B-2887-4905-9538-A0165A788ADF (resized).jpeg
Hard to explain how I got here but I started over there.There have been some compromises and I won’t ever be totally satisfied with it but I can at least feel like I am doing the best I can with what I have to work with and my own limitations

ADD3A86D-C492-4D65-B3D9-9C0CB3FF8C62 (resized).jpeg

chris you are a gifted artist working in the medium that you love and I can see why you probably stick to the newer machines , but what you have just done to a vintage piece of art has made it worthy of a lofty place in ones home again instead of a garage or basement, and I marvel at this . because there is a lot of machines that are unique and rare and nothing great like this will ever be done with them because they are not mainstream with many resources and this is turning into a real eye catcher in contrast to the mainstream, lucky owner and great work

OP
Quoted from High_End_Pins:
Woodrail playfield is cleared again.
Took a couple steps in the right direction.
I am probably going to sand it and age it one more time after this now that all the art is about where it should be. [quoted image]
Hard to explain how I got here but I started over there.There have been some compromises and I won’t ever be totally satisfied with it but I can at least feel like I am doing the best I can with what I have to work with and my own limitations
[quoted image]

Chris,

With the medium you are working with would it be possible to use one of the rubber woodgraining tools to create more woodgraining? I don't know if that is something you had already thought about but they actually do work well with some materials.

What you have accomplished already looks great but if you are looking for more of an "original look" maybe a woodgraining tool might be worth a shot?

Quoted from too-many-pins:
Chris,
With the medium you are working with would it be possible to use one of the rubber woodgraining tools to create more woodgraining? I don't know if that is something you had already thought about but they actually do work well with some materials.
What you have accomplished already looks great but if you are looking for more of an "original look" maybe a woodgraining tool might be worth a shot?

I just grabbed one off amazon and will experiment.
Might be the missing link here. Thanks for the suggestion.

OP
Quoted from High_End_Pins:
I just grabbed one off amazon and will experiment.
Might be the missing link here. Thanks for the suggestion.

The aging you did was a great improvement, took the color brightness down a notch to make it look older. Being that you're looking to experiment with the graining tool, I've had good luck using burnt amber translucent paints to give a nice subtle woodgrain effect when touching up shooter lane wear. Needs to be translucent.

Chris,
What happened to your custom branding stamp under the playfield? Thought that was an completely unique touch! Also, I was curious how you charge per project? For instance, some pins receive decals/no custom paint and are for the most part straight forward. Then you have your Select a Card and High Speed which are burning a ton of daylight.

Quoted from Dragon:
chris you are a gifted artist working in the medium that you love and I can see why you probably stick to the newer machines , but what you have just done to a vintage piece of art has made it worthy of a lofty place in ones home again instead of a garage or basement, and I marvel at this . because there is a lot of machines that are unique and rare and nothing great like this will ever be done with them because they are not mainstream with many resources and this is turning into a real eye catcher in contrast to the mainstream, lucky owner and great work

Thanks!

Quoted from Enchantress:
Chris,
What happened to your custom branding stamp under the playfield? Thought that was an completely unique touch! Also, I was curious how you charge per project? For instance, some pins receive decals/no custom paint and are for the most part straight forward. Then you have your Select a Card and High Speed which are burning a ton of daylight.

I only use the branding iron on games with bare wood playfield undersides.
The ones that are coated don’t brand well and it also gums up the iron.
I might start sanding a spot to bare wood then branding and recoating since it comes up pretty often.
I generally charge a flat labor fee of $6500 then adjust from there.
On painted cabinet games it is usually $1000 more and I have to also charge for paint and materials since they can easily cost $1000 or more. Not that I charge that full amount but I do charge something to help offset it.
No matter what I charge it always sounds like a lot when in reality it is rarely enough.
$7500 for example weighed against 150,200 or Possibly more hours of work plus the warehouse,insurance ,,taxes,utilities,equipment infrastructure maintenance etc. isn’t really lucrative but that is what it takes to be legitimate.

OP
Quoted from High_End_Pins:
I only use the branding iron on games with bare wood playfield undersides.
The ones that are coated don’t brand well and it also gums up the iron.
I might start sanding a spot to bare wood then branding and recoating since it comes up pretty often.
I generally charge a flat labor fee of $6500 then adjust from there.
On painted cabinet games it is usually $1000 more and I have to also charge for paint and materials since they can easily cost $1000 or more. Not that I charge that full amount but I do charge something to help offset it.
No matter what I charge it always sounds like a lot when in reality it is rarely enough.
$7500 for example weighed against 150,200 or Possibly more hours of work plus the warehouse,insurance ,,taxes,utilities,equipment infrastructure maintenance etc. isn’t really lucrative but that is what it takes to be legitimate.

You don’t seem to be lacking work. Charge what you’re worth.

Ready to prep the Woodrail for the final clear. D0921CBF-E4F5-4735-83C1-0C38DB073758 (resized).jpeg
Sanding. D642607C-9D17-4E2C-A102-0157F38A3D81 (resized).jpeg
Working the edges

675EDBA2-7675-4603-A00F-A0F04919FF3C (resized).jpeg

B01C1BC1-0CD8-4025-B436-C6594FC2BC48 (resized).jpeg

Sanded. No break throughs or corrections needed Finally!!28AADFDE-82F0-4672-851D-0B8C0D157BE7 (resized).jpeg
Masked off with nice clean paper and tape. 27EC2495-0C6A-479F-A5D1-B84425F395B1 (resized).jpeg339E2487-21E4-434B-8052-21966BD028DA (resized).jpeg

Final clear is sprayed. It is a 45/55 matte ratio finish that will flatten out and slicken as it dries overnight.
These finishes go on thinner and drier than regular clear because there is a matting paste that is added to the regular clear and that paste turns the gloss down but also thickens the clear making it a have a lower viscosity and that is why they tend to lay down a little more orange peeled but they do flow out as they cure.

CCCF3EDB-1965-4277-A5EE-FB7EBEEC6A5A (resized).jpegCFD60636-C8F0-43BC-B7F2-400D6B58E120 (resized).jpeg99836726-6318-4B19-BA6F-5C5DA24C61A9 (resized).jpeg48FDBDA6-84FD-4C81-9240-DD1E01DC9C30 (resized).jpeg383DC7C3-C3B9-4600-B61C-6B1A21C376F0 (resized).jpegFED45193-9CAD-4D96-BD78-A6A0E0E99586 (resized).jpegF8414977-C646-4D49-949B-7D6DE7A40BC0 (resized).jpeg34935DDB-5C86-4537-A8F1-9B4AEAF9E473 (resized).jpeg620F22FC-7354-484A-8F98-39D00900D89E (resized).jpeg7D09F56D-6C21-4A8B-9947-0BE619B8C0F1 (resized).jpeg4F01A518-7B9E-48C9-A764-E4FEED194C45 (resized).jpegD1D0EFE3-AA0B-4313-BD7A-B07BBA05AC98 (resized).jpeg

In honor of the final revision without any peeling of the Woodrail cabinet I will enjoy a Revision separation stout.

027FAB00-7ECA-4ABA-B95C-0EA6EE3E7A0A (resized).jpeg

E3666B78-773F-4506-9D13-9E7BD1E91A87 (resized).jpeg

The owner of that machine must be getting daily hard on's watching this.

Quoted from punkin:
The owner of that machine must be getting daily hard on's watching this.

If so good for him. I believe he is as old as the game or perhaps a little older

OP
Quoted from High_End_Pins:
Final clear is sprayed. It is a 45/55 matte ratio finish that will flatten out and slicken as it dries overnight.
These finishes go on thinner and drier than regular clear because there is a matting paste that is added to the regular clear and that paste turns the gloss down but also thickens the clear making it a have a lower viscosity and that is why they tend to lay down a little more orange peeled but they do flow out as they cure.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

That belongs in a museum now with a velvet rope around it.

Quoted from Pin-Pilot:
That belongs in a museum now with a velvet rope around it.

It needs to be played and enjoyed. Of course, that’s the owner’s choice. I have mini CQ pins and none will sit idle.

Quoted from ToucanF16:
It needs to be played and enjoyed. Of course, that’s the owner’s choice. I have mini CQ pins and none will sit idle.

Well of course but while it is not being played it needs it's proper showcase.

I like to restore all my pins. None are anywhere near what Chris does. If I paid the amount of money that a High End Pins restore costs I’m afraid I would never play it or let anyone else touch it. Not bagging on your prices Chris. For the amount of time and talent you put into a pin you more than deserve what you make and more and your product shows it.

The Woodrail cabinet has dried over night.
The gloss has died down and will probably continue to just a touch more over the course of the day.

3E7C2480-DE89-4E50-A82E-75D6A63ED79E (resized).jpeg

FCD440EB-5EE7-43B2-9291-9375748ED853 (resized).jpeg

I place the head on the lower to make sure everything is consistent and uniform.
There is an art to spray patterns especially when it comes to the matte clear.
If you put more on the head than the lower or the other way around one can look glossier than the other.
The gloss levels are achieved not only by mixing ratios but also application.
That all looks good
EFEA45DB-5E9B-473E-BA70-44B4AF0C10CE (resized).jpeg
233FBC38-3DA0-477D-8E69-12416258EC32 (resized).jpeg
CCC709AD-009C-4FE1-9BB5-99B2765C07CA (resized).jpeg
88D83A82-EAE2-4991-B0D2-3C76ED90AA66 (resized).jpeg
6BFA4572-A214-4CDD-8421-10005F04FD65 (resized).jpeg
Also check the line work now without the sharp paint edges and under the matte finish for what I hope will be a fairly original look.
I am satisfied with that A19B740F-C3DD-4E51-B8EB-C86259423784 (resized).jpeg1EB63B1C-E2A1-43EE-B9CA-339B223D260C (resized).jpeg
F1F18FDE-C79E-4DB4-83FB-0AA7E145BE58 (resized).jpeg
3C135D3C-91CF-468A-A535-D95533CF799B (resized).jpeg

Chris, I would pay you to teach me how to restore PFs like you do. I have tried and I cannot even begin to cut the mask like you do much less the detail. It would be a service to the other pinball people because there is a severe shortage of people who can do it.
Let’s just say your work is very impressive

The Woodrail cabinet graduates the HEP Academy of Paint and No Technology.
I start test fitting the trim so I can pick which rail goes where and which direction. 23D47444-1E0A-45DD-B986-7700F08C22FF (resized).jpeg

12820FE7-6F2B-4991-BDF8-E00F68CF4DC9 (resized).jpeg

F6B4FE68-F65B-4958-85D1-6CBBBF04743E (resized).jpeg

Cut the rails and mock it up a bit before gluing the rails on for good.

image (resized).jpg

I was looking forward to seeing how that game would turn out. Very impressive. I must say I envy your patience to go thru all of the taping and masking. I’m not a painter, but seems like tedious work. Although we can say that about most professions.

OP
Quoted from High_End_Pins:
Cut the rails and mock it up a bit before gluing the rails on for good.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Have EMS on hand when he gets this, it may give him a heart attack. Fantastic work.

Beautiful...what title is this?

After mocking it up I decided to go just a little darker on the rails and bar.
Everything else looks right including the the legs but those parts set vertically.
What I figured out is even though it is all using the same stain the parts that set vertical look darker than the ones that set horizontally
Here is an example of a leg with the very same stain placed next to the head trim vertically
BD79EA12-A25E-4A89-A8CB-4532D8CAB265 (resized).jpeg
Now the very same leg placed against a rail horizontally
29EE6A9F-937C-45E9-ABDC-3E887A5A879C (resized).jpeg
A pretty perfect match either way but somehow lost a little in translation so I sanded and stained just those parts one more time to bridge the gap a little more. Will clear them shortly 2A76CCB3-0349-48E0-AA52-6A6E028CEC93 (resized).jpeg

Ready to close the playfield out as well.
Sanded and wood grained with the suggested tool. 1EA82BE4-0DCE-4E4F-A374-A06BD1046C90 (resized).jpeg
I played around with that for a while and through some various techniques and methodically sanding /blending I got a more subtle look
I will see how this looks once cleared but should be a bit more realistic looking. No doubt there will be some anomalies in the pattern but hopefully it will give an illusion of grain.

5AE97D3E-D39F-4FED-8099-E94BC0F5582D (resized).jpeg

F14CDC64-2D37-40A2-BF98-A34D872DDFF5 (resized).jpeg

A179B2DD-4A48-476C-B11F-FB6600C70E2F (resized).jpeg

0355C544-BF92-4E61-B97E-3D14876B8FD8 (resized).jpeg

Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!

Help – Contact – About Pinside – Support Pinside – Top

HEP This Week

By High_End_Pins

5 years ago

Topic Stats

You

Find in topic

Linked Games

Topic poll

“EBD Trim legs will be black regardless ”

Topic Gallery

Topic index (key posts)

Reply

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!