Production TAF decal application.
With the TAF cabinets about ready to build up I need to start harvesting parts off the donor games.
Both of these came in with the era correct doors.
The TAF AA has a pretty rough one.
F3FC4353-3001-4A05-9173-16794DD532C3 (resized).jpeg
The JS one is a little more on the average side.
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These are torn down. A1CD6A95-6582-4275-A823-10587336A462 (resized).jpeg
Then cleaned,stripped as needed. Metal etched both sides. B1E65C9C-E686-4250-B73D-C9D7BEC20E7A (resized).jpeg
Refinished.
A little more specked than usual to help cover any remaining condition issues.
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Both look about the same now.
After they dry I can determine if I want to smooth them out any,add more gloss,less gloss etc
Nice Friday afternoon. Late lunch/early dinner.
Swordfish steaks and grilled veggies.
Both TAFs are braided.
TAF AA makes it on to legs.
Curtis dances seems to like Ten Years After could be buzzed?
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Nice Friday afternoon. Late lunch/early dinner.
Swordfish steaks and grilled veggies.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I love grilled swordfish - one of the best tasting of them all.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:I love grilled swordfish - one of the best tasting of them all.
Those were great.
Had tuna today.
Final stages of gutting the HS cabinet.
I want to double check everything once more before I start to paint the new one.
Can be hard to really be accurate without fully gutting and measuring. image (resized).jpg
I am switching hinge styles on the head.
The original is very thin and bent.
Everything is in order on the HS cabinet F7987B82-CFD8-44E4-9C7F-28353995BF5E (resized).jpeg
The issue with the original hinge is that it is flimsy.
Right after HS they switched to a thicker style that better distributed on the neck.
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You can see how much thicker the hinges are.
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Double check the fit. All set.
I started prepping the wood rail cabinet.
First step is a thorough cleaning.
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080FB0CA-1480-4751-B21A-60D802C18224 (resized).jpeg
Chemical clean.
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Next paint safe compound 6AFA1C52-6924-4C3A-B50F-D158F100C6F7 (resized).jpeg
Good results.
Another thing I need to get straight on the wood rail before clearing it for the first time is the wood frame around the glass. 1DF948C5-E94C-4325-B8B0-1C87DC312ACF (resized).jpeg
I sand and shape the nicks out of it. Then stain it to match the previously stained trim and parts.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Everything is in order on the HS cabinet [quoted image]
The issue with the original hinge is that it is flimsy.
Right after HS they switched to a thicker style that better distributed on the neck.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
You can see how much thicker the hinges are.
[quoted image]
Double check the fit. All set.[quoted image][quoted image]
Those are some serious hinges!
Watching this wood rail restore. Bet its gonna be a head turner when done. Seeing you have done so many The Addams Family Do these go quickly as for as restore time? Obviously game play tweaking can vary from each game.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:I started prepping the wood rail cabinet.
First step is a thorough cleaning.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Chemical clean.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Next paint safe compound [quoted image]
Good results.[quoted image][quoted image]
What paint safe compound did you use? Turned out amazing.
Quoted from jsf24:What paint safe compound did you use? Turned out amazing.
I use Meguiars 85 diamond cut.
When something is considered paint safe or safe for use in a body shop what that means is that it does not contain silicone or other contaminants that would create paint problems like fish eyes or adhesion problem if refinished after use or put those contaminants in that environment.
That is key on this because I need to use it to clean the surface as thoroughly as possible prior to clearing .Harsh chemicals or heavy sanding aren’t an option since I don’t want to damage what is good about the cabinet currently.
https://www.meguiars.com/professional/products/meguiars-mirror-glaze-professional-diamond-cut-compound-20-m8532-32-oz
Quoted from High_End_Pins:I use Meguiars 85 diamond cut.
This works very well on playfields as well as the cabs (thnx Chris)!
Wood rail head is cleared. Along with the door.
Both will need work but my purposes for clearing them at this stage are pretty numerous.
The main ones but not all are to start sealing the stained frame in the head,protect the original paint from harm when doing future repairs and repaints,give a good solid foundation to repaint off of and also to get a really good sense of the colors themselves for the best possible matches.
By making sure those colors are as clean and shiny as they can be it helps me best match them.
HS cabinet is based then cleared.
I will sand and stencil from that point because it gives the best ability to wipe stacking colors off and I might make some changes to the stock scheme. 24D43286-CE9B-4393-832E-C7BDDDD62B3C (resized).jpeg
5CCCD757-CDDC-471F-908D-7200FCEEC685 (resized).jpeg
Starting to work on the woodrail lower. It has been cleaned. image (resized).jpg
There are a couple small patch panels needed due to wood rot
Those are fit glued and clamped. image (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpg
I will see what I can do with the floor. It is overall nice but a little stained in the front.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:I might make some changes to the stock scheme.
Awesome! I am doing one of these right now, and have been deliberating about a color switch-up for weeks - can't wait to see what you come up with!
Sanded the woodrail floor clean as possible and then fully stained the interior with the same stain used for the trim to mask all the stains and blend the entire package together.
Originally the upper walls are silver. I can still do that if I choose but I think the wood matching the rails and playfield sides upper apron etc are going to look much nicer.
This is the part I most dislike about restoring older games because I know some want authenticity and others like improvements if they are well thought out and make sense.
I tend to fall somewhere right in the middle.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Back at the warehouse there is another new arrival.
well, go big or go home!
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Back at the warehouse there is another new arrival.[quoted image]
What are you doing with the TBL?
Quoted from High_End_Pins:HS cabinet is based then cleared.
I will sand and stencil from that point because it gives the best ability to wipe stacking colors off and I might make some changes to the stock scheme. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Watching this closely. Curious to see changes to stenciling from stock!
Quoted from ToucanF16:What are you doing with the TBL?
Just going to piss on the rug and ship it back out
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Back at the warehouse there is another new arrival.
Might not be a TBL in that box. Could be a different title.
LTG : )
Quoted from LTG:Might not be a TBL in that box. Could be a different title.
LTG : )
Yeah that does happen sometimes but this time it actually is a TBL.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Yeah that does happen sometimes but this time it actually is a TBL.
I hope it's just to get your long lasting magic touch and not a shipping disaster like that Alien awhile back.
LTG : )
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Yeah that does happen sometimes but this time it actually is a TBL.
What's on the request list for it?
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Back at the warehouse there is another new arrival.[quoted image]
#1 question for the owner of a HEP restored TBL
Quoted from edward472:#1 question for the owner of a HEP restored TBL
How much to restore the rug ?
LTG : )
After a very expensive trip to the paint store while the glue and stain dried on the woodrail I was able to get the lower cab cleared for the first time.
This nearly $1400 worth of paint and clear to be used exclusively to paint the HS and upcoming F-14 cabinets
So not including primer,sand paper nor tape.
Just paint and clear for those comes in at around $700 per cabinet.
The reason I often highlight that is this.
New cabinet $850
Paint $700
Primer sand paper etc $400
Stencils $175
In raw materials not including labor it cost over $2000 to pull these off.
Most think it is a $500 rattle can job on a bondo filled cabinet and there is not anything wrong with that but at this level with these expectations it cost a true premium of my own money upfront to put the pieces in place.
I used to paint cars, and there isn't a darn thing cheap doing it with quality materials. Unless you want crap, and there's plenty of crap out there to do a crappy job that is just, well crappy.
Quoted from Drewscruis:I used to paint cars, and there isn't a darn thing cheap doing it with quality materials. Unless you want crap, and there's plenty of crap out there to do a crappy job that is just, well crappy.
Funny, when I was younger I was considering getting a Maaco $300 paint job (does anyone else remember those adds). Fortunately, I had a dad that loved me and knew a lot about cars who convinced me otherwise. When I found out how much a quality paint job cost, I decided to keep my '73 Chevelle "original".
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Funny, when I was younger I was considering getting a Maaco $300 paint job (does anyone else remember those adds). Fortunately, I had a dad that loved me and knew a lot about cars who convinced me otherwise. When I found out how much a quality paint job cost, I decided to keep my '73 Chevelle "original".
Earl Schieb was that company when I was growing up in So Cal. Their ads were all over the place in the 1970s, and their reputation for shoddy work - legendary.
Quoted from PinMonk:Earl Schieb was that company when I was growing up in So Cal. Their ads were all over the place in the 1970s, and their reputation for shoddy work - legendary.
Will paint any car any color for $99.99. We always joked if you leave you windows down they paint the interior for free....
Cleared it for the first time stencil wise.
Will need some extra efforts because of the way the colors stack.
It takes several coats of yellow to cover over black.
There are ways to cheat that like spraying a little white first but that. An create problems later when sanding so I just work through it.
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Quoted from High_End_Pins:Cleared it for the first time stencil wise.
Will need some extra efforts because of the way the colors stack.
It takes several coats of yellow to cover over black.
There are ways to cheat that like spraying a little white first but that. An create problems later when sanding so I just work through it.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Looks good with the wrap around Red and yellow. Less stacking also. Very nice
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