(Topic ID: 225528)

HEP This Week 12-9-19


By High_End_Pins

1 year ago



Topic Stats

  • 5,703 posts
  • 358 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by High_End_Pins
  • Topic is favorited by 356 Pinsiders

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Topic poll

“EBD Trim legs will be black regardless ”

  • Stainless/Factory 35 votes
    31%
  • Blacked out 54 votes
    48%
  • Painted Gold matched to cabinet 24 votes
    21%

(113 votes)

This poll has been closed.

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Topic index (key posts)

58 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 20 (Show topic index)

There are 5703 posts in this topic. You are on page 13 of 115.
#601 1 year ago

is there an advantage to using mdf for the lamp panels (assuming that's what that is) as opposed to plywood? more stable?

and look at that, flipper holes and no knots!

#602 1 year ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

I am going to start painting the Tommy

This will be done through stenciling.

I reckon it was originally screen printed? Is it possible to reproduce the delicate and thin art through stenciling?

#603 1 year ago

Cabinet is masked FF71933E-4958-424C-B799-C4FF029C0A85 (resized).jpeg64B49CBD-71D4-4C07-AB58-CC7FD22B60B6 (resized).jpeg

Now being based in yellow. I am going a touch more vivid than the factory color but not a ton. image (resized).jpg

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#604 1 year ago

Dude, time for a beer...how do you expect me to keep up with all these posts

I love seeing them, you are truly a veritable paragon of pinball craftsmanship!

#605 1 year ago

Who needs to ship HEP a pinball machine? He can probably make most pinball machines from scratch if parts available. What he does is better than coming straight from the factory.

#606 1 year ago
Quoted from Strohz:

Dude, time for a beer...how do you expect me to keep up with all these posts
I love seeing them, you are truly a veritable paragon of pinball craftsmanship!

Beer and some stencils

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#607 1 year ago

Hoped to have it painted and cleared today but it looks more like tomorrow. Getting there though. Long day.
Lost about four hours dealing with all the drilling so that is difference sometimes in getting it done in one day or two.

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#608 1 year ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

Hoped to have it painted and cleared today but it looks more like tomorrow. Getting there though. Long day.
Lost about four hours dealing with all the drilling so that is difference sometimes in getting it done in one day at two.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Who made the stencils?

#609 1 year ago

A few hours more and it is ready to clear.
This is an extremely difficult paint job. The details are so small. The colors and order of them is all over the place but I couldn’t see doing it any other way given the options.

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#610 1 year ago

My personal goals for restoration quality have been raised dramatically ever since I started reading your threads!

#611 1 year ago
Quoted from twinmice:

Dont know if this has been asked before, but what do you do to avoid the wrinkles in the new cab artwork after bolt installation? I know don't over tighten I have barely tightened the bolts and sometimes still get the wrinkles. Any tips? Thanks Mike

I have had this happen as well, any tips?

#612 1 year ago

Tommy cabinet is cleared for the first time in full gloss.

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#613 1 year ago
Quoted from twinmice:

Dont know if this has been asked before, but what do you do to avoid the wrinkles in the new cab artwork after bolt installation? I know don't over tighten I have barely tightened the bolts and sometimes still get the wrinkles. Any tips? Thanks Mike

Yes. The twist of the bolt is usually the issue with the wrinkles so if it is a pivot bolt make sure you remove all the loctite from the threads and that you can easily thread the pivot nut on there.
Then only seat the bolts fully into the cabinet with a rubber mallet and then of course only tight the nut enough to hold.
The goal is not to let the nut have anything to do with pulling the bolt in then you can better avoid the wrinkle or pucker that can happen.

#614 1 year ago

If anyone following this thread has a plastic set for the Tommy project please let me know.

#616 1 year ago

Be carefull. These are repro’s and there are different opinions in regard to quality of pinball center repro plastics. Now it’s a complete set so if the color is slightly off with original you will not notice it.

#617 1 year ago

The Flipper button holes are drilled in the new TAF cabinet
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then the playfield pivots.
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#618 1 year ago

Tired of drilling,filling,taping,priming,painting I am now settling in to wiring for the rest of the day.
The IJ is getting close to finishing up.

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#620 1 year ago

On the current IJ project all switches will be replaced.

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24
#621 1 year ago

Grand Prix finished pictures.

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#622 1 year ago

Grand Prix pictures.

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#623 1 year ago

Grand Prix final playfield pictures.

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#624 1 year ago

Grand Prix inside.

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#625 1 year ago

Is there a "drooling" emoji? Because there should be!

#626 1 year ago

That is nicer than factory, surely. Well done, HEP!

Out of curiosity, how much in parts does replacing all switches in an IJ cost?

#628 1 year ago

Slick!

#629 1 year ago

The GP is absolutely phenomenal!

#630 1 year ago

A picture inside the backbox would be nice.

That's where a lot of the fun comes in when working on one of these.

#631 1 year ago
Quoted from Maide:

That is nicer than factory, surely. Well done, HEP!
Out of curiosity, how much in parts does replacing all switches in an IJ cost?

Maybe like $100 if you figure the game has 20 switches at $5 a switch with diodes for the good ones.

My process is a little more involved and cost are a little higher since I build sub assemblies with color correct wiring and connectors but I don’t track.
I probably under charge on that in terms of parts but it is part of the restore so it all works out

#632 1 year ago
Quoted from Toucanf16:

The GP is absolutely phenomenal!

Nobody’s opinion matters more on that Grand Prix

#633 1 year ago
Quoted from o-din:

A picture inside the backbox would be nice.
That's where a lot of the fun comes in when working on one of these.

Here are a few I put a keyless lock in that door so it is easy to access. Wish the lighting was better.

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#634 1 year ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

Wish the lighting was better.

That's what I always say when working on these things.

Nice job! Lotta parts to clean. Lotta parts...

#635 1 year ago
Quoted from o-din:

That's what I always say when working on these things.
Nice job! Lotta parts to clean. Lotta parts...

Yeah. When I worked back there I had that part faced to a window in the sunlight.
I couldn’t believe how many loose wires I found to resolder.
Not broken but it was like they just became unsoldered in a way.
It was mostly the larger grouped wires on the score reels where they would take two 18 guage wires and solder them to one little old switch blade tab.

I would have never spotted them by eye I found the first one by accident investigating a dead digit then gently tugged on the rest and found several more.

#636 1 year ago

Nice work on the Grand Prix (and others)! How was the "player count issue" worked out?

#637 1 year ago
Quoted from flerp:

Nice work on the Grand Prix (and others)! How was the "player count issue" worked out?

That issue is the lone one that is still lingering a bit but now more occasional than before where it was every time.
I am not nearly as EM tech savvy as I am with solid state though so a good friend that also happens to be an EM guy will be by this week to help me.
This is probably my fourth EM and I am starting to get a better understanding of them.
Wish I saw more come through here it would speed that learning curve up.

#638 1 year ago

The IJ switches are wired with color correct wire and lug protection where appropriate and two pin plugs
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Even though each switch now uses a two pin plug the color correct wire helps guide anyone with common sense in the future and the only risk of interchanging the plugs will be the wrong switch signaling so nothing that could do any harm. B13CC576-711A-44F2-8141-A967179FA85E (resized).jpeg

By doing this switches become easily serviceable as individuals and they can be quickly disconnected and interchanged for trouble shooting if needed or replaced outside of the game on a workbench. 3EC766E1-83ED-48C9-9FFC-14CB98F21BA1 (resized).jpegF48C5E84-10A0-4007-ABDE-2E8C1F272765 (resized).jpeg

This will also help loosen a tight spot in the harness that runs too close to the drop target bank. 00E5EAB9-35AD-4203-9005-9DA90F24DEEA (resized).jpeg
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The targets will be done as a group the same way and it will help further provide some slack in this tighter area.

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#639 1 year ago

Wow! I love that set up. Makes future adjustments on the bench or switch removal and reinstallation a breeze.

#640 1 year ago

Working through the IJ switch harness this morning.
All connections are made up with the harness.

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#641 1 year ago

The jet bumper switches are reworked with color correct wire,short protection and placed on individual plugs as well.
Three pin for these to separate them from the roll overs.

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#642 1 year ago

I made it through the switch harness
Now it is time for the lamp harness.
This will also be heavily reworked and reconfigured.
First is placing the lamp boards
Appropriate LEDs are placed replacing the multiple colored versions that were in there at teardown.
I like to color match some inserts but in general outside of red,blue or green inserts I prefer to go simply warm or cool depending on the desired effect. It maintains the advantages of a both standard bulb look and LED durability. 1D172297-B610-47A9-AA16-BC23790A9D48 (resized).jpeg

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#643 1 year ago

So for the IJ lamp harness we can go over what the issues are and goals.
Maverick would like to add teeth marks to that list but we are watching that guy and he knows it
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The concerns are almost always the same.
Rusty sockets image (resized).jpg

Corrosion on the springs inside them
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Generic thin wire daisy chaining large sections together that easily break. image (resized).jpg

Goals at this stage are to replace the sockets and rewire with a color consistency from socket to socket. Do it neatly of course.

#644 1 year ago

Lamp harness roughed in place.

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#645 1 year ago

Before I settle in with the lamp harness wiring on the IJ and the evening beer I kick on the compressor in the paint shop.
It cost more than the building it is in which is sad but it is an essential tool and clean dry air on demand is important. image (resized).jpg

I will mask and prime the TAF cabinet real quick now that the button holes are made and the Tommy cabinet is out of harms way.

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#646 1 year ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

Before I settle in with the lamp harness wiring on the IJ and the evening beer I kick on the compressor in the paint shop.
It cost more than the building it is in which is sad but it is an essential tool and clean dry air on demand is important. [quoted image]
I will mask and prime the TAF cabinet real quick now that the button holes are made and the Tommy cabinet is out of harms way.
[quoted image][quoted image]

When sanding the cab paint off, do you use a ventilator/respirator? I am getting ready to sand my NBAFB, just wondering how harmful the sanding is...

#647 1 year ago
Quoted from KozMckPinball:

When sanding the cab paint off, do you use a ventilator/respirator? I am getting ready to sand my NBAFB, just wondering how harmful the sanding is...

Dust mask on a newer game like that is fine.

On an older game that might have lead paint I would wear a true respirator.

#648 1 year ago

TAF cabinet is ready to prime.

Besides needing to drill the flipper buttons it was a much easier prep that the Tommy cabinet.

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#649 1 year ago

Being an amateur-restorer myself and spending months on a single restore, it is amazing to see how you crank out these beautiful games on a weekly basis. You're a man-machine, the terminator of pinball restoration...

#650 1 year ago

TAF cabinet is primed

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