Addams Family, The
Bally, 1992
Airborne
Capcom, 1996
Alien (Heighway Pinball)
Heighway Pinball, 2017
Black Knight
Williams, 1980
Bram Stoker's Dracula
Williams, 1993
Centaur
Bally, 1981
Centigrade 37
Gottlieb, 1977
Champion Pub
Bally, 1998Ready for the second stencil on Spirit 3.
I wipe any stacking colors off before I apply the next color.
This will minimize breaking through later in the process.
FE9B6FBB-2BF9-4454-8BA8-29170E16E901 (resized).jpegFEB0400D-75AD-4CF5-8FDD-87E1B5694E3A (resized).jpeg5DB5326A-28BB-459E-8287-FBF3466F9CE0 (resized).jpeg5D4BF98D-3D9F-48E7-AC0A-124C07BAFFD7 (resized).jpegUnmasked and ready for the next clear.
I will just full gloss the stenciled areas because I already know that I will need to sand and clear it once more to finish the leveling process.
At that time I will dial in the final gloss level and clear it all again at once.
Really pleased with the scheme and speckling on this one now that I have had a chance to really study a few examples of the title in person.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgStencil work is cleared. image (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpg
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After it dries a couple days I will sand it down and work towards the final finish.
What I aim to do is to level the clear and in doing so level the colors.
Clear like this has a tendency to picture frame all the hard lines. This is where it gathers at each and every stencil edge. If painting cars it would do the same on say something like a two tone job but is typically striped over to hide it.
No striping these so we continue on.
This is a good thing in terms of the process but it also makes it where a first class finish can’t be done in one single application more of a process.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgMerry Christmas and a happy new year to you and your family, Chris. I greatly enjoy your thread. It is by far the most instructive, professional thread on Pinside, truly in a class by itself. Thanks for the time you put into keeping this going and for being a stand up, classy guy.
Restoring pinball machines is what got me into the hobby in around 2000, and I used to think I did a pretty good job until I found this thread. Chris you are unmatched and I absolutely LOVE following along with your amazingly detailed descriptions and photos. This is by far my favorite thread on Pinside. Thank you so much and please continue to share your work with us as we move into 2020.
Spirit 3 cabinet is dry now and unmasked.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
If I am trying to do a really original looking scheme I usually compare the two at this point to see if corrects are needed.
Not worried about textures or gloss levels at this stage just colors and speckle patterns.
Using the original head to gauge.
image (resized).jpg
Placing it under the new. image (resized).jpg
Then on the lower. Colors are good.
image (resized).jpg
Speckles are authentic looking and flow seamlessly between my lower and the original head.
image (resized).jpgAbout the only thing left on Spirit 2 is the main playfield build at this point. I have done the game in sections
Cabinet
Upper playfield and now main so I could filter in the plating needs and enormity of the project as a whole.
Doing one Spirit is one thing but setting up and processing four is something else entirely.
It has involved having cabinets made,stencils made,playfields made all of which takes a lot of leg work,networking and resources not to mention patience and money.
This playfield like the rest of the game has rust and corrosion issues that are bad enough to warrant the need to have all the coil and flipper brackets plated.
With 5 flippers that’s is a lot of metal.
51C072B5-3215-4067-A3E6-E0ABF5C92073 (resized).jpeg4C0FCBC2-D440-41F4-B7D1-22570C803F55 (resized).jpegF4EB4406-03A8-48E2-A36E-5C0622A73B61 (resized).jpeg9B9E8679-BBAF-403E-AC29-90957740ACE8 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Spirit 3 cabinet is dry now and unmasked.
[quoted image][quoted image]
If I am trying to do a really original looking scheme I usually compare the two at this point to see if corrects are needed.
Not worried about textures or gloss levels at this stage just colors and speckle patterns.
Using the original head to gauge.
[quoted image]
Placing it under the new. [quoted image]
Then on the lower. Colors are good.
[quoted image]
Speckles are authentic looking and flow seamlessly between my lower and the original head.[quoted image]
I like how you added the extra lightning bolt on the head. It's makes the guy getting shocked make sense.
Quoted from edward472:I like how you added the extra lightning bolt on the head. It's makes the guy getting shocked make sense.
Thanks I can’t take any credit for that though. It was done at some point by Gottlieb so technically there are two different versions of Spirit art.
The stencils were made of this version.
Luckily it’s is the version that makes the most sense 
2CD93919-88E2-4715-877D-BE6A8BD7BDFE (resized).jpegQuoted from High_End_Pins:Thanks I can’t take any credit for that though. It was done at some point by Gottlieb so technically there are two different versions of Spirit art.
The stencils were made of this version.
Luckily it’s is the version that makes the most sense [quoted image]
I learn something every day here 
Quoted from edward472:I learn something every day here
That’s one of the ideas 
Time to finish wiring the POTO cabinet.
This is where we start 7206BAF8-A3B9-4CED-A43D-BE9D15091F24 (resized).jpeg
First there are a couple burnt pins to replace.
393FD6FE-A707-4F8C-8013-C7F1FCFAE257 (resized).jpegBurnt pins are replaced and the POTO cabinet is neatly wired as much as it can be without installing the playfield.
4192CB77-C66E-49C4-AC75-1DF374B2AA3C (resized).jpeg03B5CC65-34CC-4CD5-8AB9-0594C798A7F2 (resized).jpeg003DF5E4-8086-43C2-A262-5DD21AD74AFC (resized).jpeg323CFA01-4596-4F52-91F0-F6787754CAF0 (resized).jpeg4B390C41-4BC2-4BE9-9A4A-38B192F0E181 (resized).jpegPOTO playfield is t nutted. 880BA4C2-B146-4A90-BF78-BB357F4A2E3B (resized).jpeg
The phantom face is blank on the nos underside.
0CFB0EA3-38CD-4CDE-812C-0AA07F11F531 (resized).jpeg
Gets a decal 22150271-BD7D-4258-B37B-C2ACA7EFB487 (resized).jpeg
Decal is placed.
759867DC-3EC6-486F-B4FB-EC4A130F1268 (resized).jpegTopside assembly begins.
Rails placed. 5F1C0E62-61AD-49B1-A283-B2A70EEF505A (resized).jpeg
Wire guides.
5F6169D8-AD0E-4435-8328-E09A9AD9669D (resized).jpeg
Some Mylar.
I noticed how trashed this area gets both in my original teardown pictures of the game I did years back and this one.
39619BC0-3F5F-447B-B7AF-EFD135CB47E2 (resized).jpeg
I added a large section that will be hidden but added insurance because the gold ink just seems so so in terms of how well it is bonded to the playfield regardless of any coating on top.
6E50A995-DF76-445B-A7B6-6263D24EC30D (resized).jpeg
Post Going with amber instead of red for a better match to the crimson shade used on the playfield.
9C66D257-4E3F-4659-8DA4-5C026E42E43B (resized).jpegA53E0A6E-BEBE-4F22-ACE5-B4DD339DDD3F (resized).jpeg
I like the blue up top much better than the original red. C9FB727A-FB2F-46B0-B50E-C72ED4CD843C (resized).jpeg
The mirror target was rebuilt and mylared over for added protection.
B0685238-28D7-4702-ADEA-A09A8D4FA9EC (resized).jpeg
82169C60-B188-421B-9577-EE9C6C69ACF2 (resized).jpegReady to build the POTO underside up.
3C512F1C-36BA-446F-8A4D-3BD6FFC215D3 (resized).jpeg
I have prepped all parts so it is really just a matter of assembly. 576636F7-76D1-4B22-A6FC-505DA8ED0FE8 (resized).jpeg
The target banks are a tight fit. 31F30A96-0A46-438F-AA0F-CD68DAD9DC4C (resized).jpeg
I don’t like the way when force in there it gives so little blade gap. FC9C1E5D-05FC-4F3D-9B4B-121AAC4AF64E (resized).jpeg
The issue is the reinforced section of the bracket.
C93B1EFF-BAB3-46CF-B076-2F1D5EC68D3D (resized).jpeg
I will make a small slot for each so I can have better adjustability.
Marked. A101CF99-5899-4716-9F72-95D0360D6489 (resized).jpeg
F01BB49B-9E48-4A3C-BA78-F0694ECD1113 (resized).jpeg
Drilled.
E9728C3A-7C8E-4992-BA4F-052F974F6F27 (resized).jpeg
280A4820-E3C8-4A90-9F6E-42411D9E08C7 (resized).jpeg
Placed and much better.
1356E956-EAA3-49AE-9672-65B8436B10F9 (resized).jpeg4B2ADC76-B721-49EF-99EE-07FB00B7A510 (resized).jpegPOTO underside is going quickly.
First the mechs are placed. B7AE9960-A79C-4B8D-A09C-C08E9C5C2B7C (resized).jpeg
Then I start mapping out the new sockets so I can wire them with insulated wire around the mechs. 7E25AF26-E554-4192-B282-3E5044F40352 (resized).jpeg
Lamp boards are placed. B2E2060F-9E17-48FB-BA32-469CB7C5C532 (resized).jpeg
70DD178B-3E94-4682-AB66-ED3FCA7178D9 (resized).jpeg
The main harness is placed. image (resized).jpg
It’s mostly a matter of plugging everything in from there with some GI runs needed that will be threaded into that main harness.
F969AB3E-3C9E-4D85-9EC0-115A8E6B2139 (resized).jpegimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgThis week starts off with the Spirit 3 cabinet final prep and clear.
A8A90D4D-64D5-4ABA-998F-64AEEBD71F92 (resized).jpeg
First step is to sand it this process will eliminate the major hard lines and gathering of clearcoat on those lines.
67242C91-73A7-488B-BC3E-FD80A0814004 (resized).jpeg
This is a very critical step but can easily become a disaster if you don’t have a good sense of how far is too far as well as how far is not far enough when sanding. It is. Going to vary from job to to job,line to line and color to color. No way to describe it.
A quick stroke across gives a better idea of what we are dealing with. This isn’t bad or sloppy work this is just what happens when you spray this type of clear over a bunch of random shapes and hard lines.
1D41E6D7-EEFA-489F-92E7-A87958BC1819 (resized).jpeg
Through the sanding process I am able to completely level everything out with very few break through s. D73C06DB-0C85-49C5-8CE9-D31872804315 (resized).jpeg
The cabinet can now be cleaned and inspected. 62FC7F92-755E-4CC6-A045-174CB7903F8D (resized).jpeg
The cabinet is cleaned and masked. The final clear will only be as clean as the paper and tape used to mask it off so new paper is a must for a one shot final finish that requires no future sanding or polishing because that can’t be done on a matte finish.
E7385C85-E5FF-4A67-BA65-4995836ADA9B (resized).jpeg
The head is done as well.
938E6198-F753-4D23-A412-98430C0DAF30 (resized).jpeg
Unlike the lower it does have a couple of break throughs to address.
B5718E4B-2654-44E7-AC70-299843AE0455 (resized).jpeg
Those are manually cut and masked.
8424FD09-AA8B-4D93-9638-888CB1E1AD47 (resized).jpegNow I can apply the final matte clear.
I would like a nice sheen but not a full gloss.
The ratios I chose are noted then mixed. F90C8115-5A2E-4BC8-A771-FBA69BA7A669 (resized).jpeg
Doesn’t look very clear does it ?AF118083-7F77-47CE-B055-8D8BD4930D00 (resized).jpeg
Final clear is applied and will flatten out and gloss down as it dries.
D5B3FF75-692E-4FF9-BC17-A5BE97D9C3B2 (resized).jpeg030340FC-1BD5-40BC-937C-96768CDBBD46 (resized).jpeg77767ADB-E925-48B8-ADB4-7F1F10F97A7A (resized).jpegA730045F-895E-4697-A3C7-213B17E33FDE (resized).jpegC32B9DFA-716E-4789-ACC4-494FD70804E4 (resized).jpegF7329BF9-890E-472D-A4FF-EC9F6963858B (resized).jpegA992A110-FBAF-4A86-AC88-7F9A4CB1476C (resized).jpegPOTO playfield wiring is complete.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgPOTO playfield is now in the cabinet.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgPOTO lives.
image (resized).jpgcompared to the earlier games, the move to light boards underneath really helps clean up the wiring, doesn't it?
Quoted from DefDumBlindKid:Not such a bad way to end the year. With Centaur and Fathom back home.[quoted image]
Looks like they traveled well. Appreciate you Richard!
Spirit 3 has graduated from the paint shop.
Could not be happier with this one. Gloss level is exactly what I was after. Not too glossy not too flat.
CD0F92F5-052E-41FA-A05D-D966F3C00674 (resized).jpeg9496001F-6742-418A-8D34-01F53ABCF842 (resized).jpegFFC7A785-5166-4F89-899C-AE378C658E5E (resized).jpegE2F49CEC-B009-4F1D-8CD6-AEDC13BA7088 (resized).jpegFE1FE101-09DA-4121-BBBF-B543C48AAE7B (resized).jpegQuoted from High_End_Pins:Spirit 3 has graduated from the paint shop.
Could not be happier with this one. Gloss level is exactly what I was after. Not too glossy not too flat.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
You're a bad, BAD influence. I had little interest in a Spirit before all these starting being detailed, and now I want one. Beautiful work.
Quoted from DefDumBlindKid:Now, whose coming over for Midnight Madness??
I'll be right over! ...with a box truck.
Quoted from DefDumBlindKid:Thanks, Chris. They are gorgeous.
I'm wondering how a kid who is deaf, dumb and blind can enjoy their beauty?
I guess HEP games must also feel great to the touch.
Quoted from DefDumBlindKid:Thanks, Chris. They are gorgeous.
Now, whose coming over for Midnight Madness??[quoted image][quoted image]
I think I’d have a tough time actually playing a game on either of those, stunning.
I'm "down" to just a few HEP games: proto TAF, proto BR, proto SC, proto Funhouse, proto Whirlwind, sample Earthshaker, and MM. I've sold a few HEP games because utlimately the *game* just wasn't a keeper for me, but I think with the exception of maybe SC, the ones I have left are keepers. I've got a few late model Sterns and then my only vintage games that Chris hasn't done are the "#1 on the run!" TZ (sample), and my HUO CC. I love them both and they're keepers, so maybe one day they'll have to go to Chris, too.
--Donnie
Quoted from littlecammi:I'm wondering how a kid who is deaf, dumb and blind can enjoy their beauty?
I guess HEP games must also feel great to the touch.
I admire and play by sense of smell.
Happy New Year
We had a festive day yesterday.
Homemade Mexican food.
It was all made authentically/ correctly courtesy of Curtis’s girlfriend.
I grilled the meat the wife and the girlfriend did the rest.
Curtis stuffed himself as usual creating a space jam in his belly as advertised.
954CA7E0-283B-45AA-84C5-8463A168B3C7 (resized).jpeg7349C367-9487-40F9-90C7-BD6BCC425AA6 (resized).jpeg069A1211-ACEE-48EF-A1A2-3568ECA544D5 (resized).jpeg990D2505-9A34-416C-8C29-F2A97F99FA81 (resized).jpegF488D7BF-88F1-4104-AF6B-446E779DD94A (resized).jpeg8379831F-EB53-4D4D-80E7-4F691A34D060 (resized).jpeg5DD68693-F531-475A-9B0A-BA06D991648E (resized).jpeg92E79CE9-FD2B-4F7B-BF39-628B184A162E (resized).jpegEB488369-9338-4DFF-BB7E-A163F567B0D5 (resized).jpeg
Made some good progress on the POTO.
I have been working on ways to clean up the rough edges of the factory build.
Things like eliminating the thick foam used for ball traps and using a more appealing looking solution.
A8C77FDC-913E-4C30-A5BD-96A195BF7B27 (resized).jpeg3CA4B49B-BA1A-4821-851D-C40EE4448697 (resized).jpegB8CB06C6-F114-495D-A4AF-651EE1F92867 (resized).jpegWith most of the plastics now in place there are just a couple more parts left
I have been testing and dialing things in as I go because some switches and features are hard to get to once fully assembled.
C5D0E306-BCCB-4925-BC26-1EAC5E86D8B4 (resized).jpeg1E511300-1332-4319-9F4C-7471ED3D4542 (resized).jpegBEC8C06B-C236-43A0-9F28-F7BC4B4BF05A (resized).jpeg75761BE7-5B81-417F-962A-E6CCEB86D6B3 (resized).jpegFB11102D-1B57-4A96-8210-D91086A607D0 (resized).jpegEE344455-1584-40FE-ACE3-F62032CD9748 (resized).jpegD65CA36C-21FF-4780-9E35-9EFABF67BDE9 (resized).jpegWanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
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Matthews, NC
Edmonton, AB