Addams Family, The
Bally, 1992
Airborne
Capcom, 1996
Alien (Heighway Pinball)
Heighway Pinball, 2017
Black Knight
Williams, 1980
Bram Stoker's Dracula
Williams, 1993
Centaur
Bally, 1981
Centigrade 37
Gottlieb, 1977
Champion Pub
Bally, 1998Quoted from High_End_Pins:BH is about as far as it goes for now.
I finished working over the pop bumper “touch ups”
[quoted image]
Now I can copy the coin door for my Spirit 2 rebuild. I know Bally doors,Williams door by heart but not these.[quoted image]
Thanks for these updates! It's always really helpful for me to see somebody else's process on these sorts of things.
The Spirit 2 mini playfield has various condition issues.
The main ones are the tin like trim for the surround is bent up in a way that makes plating or polishing impossible because it needs to be filled. A127D49B-B830-407E-AA57-6BEB6F4A1B22 (resized).jpeg
The other is just pitted549AD42D-0828-46B0-B712-033940EEDC61 (resized).jpeg
The small pivot brackets are corroded badly.
AC86EC3F-E81E-4480-8930-1A95AB2777AD (resized).jpeg
Best solution for me on this today is to blast them. 80CE51BC-3C1A-4AAC-9E0D-56D6246B9C24 (resized).jpeg
Straighten then black Metal etch
86CDD544-B22F-44D1-999D-0D8E069AEA9E (resized).jpeg
After they dried it gave a much cleaner look to the part and knowing what it is and where it goes helps with the decision making.
35D45E6D-3FC6-4BC9-8368-E1CAFCEDCB8C (resized).jpegA07FF8A7-0B16-4314-B51A-9B9B528856B1 (resized).jpeg
Now for the assembly.
I clean and polish as I go.
Making some changes
C96BC2AB-C0B1-4EDC-8A91-19690478CD31 (resized).jpeg4C69DBEA-AC3D-47E1-90A6-F1C9060B5A1E (resized).jpeg794D0A94-25B6-4765-B1E0-63E1FB3783CF (resized).jpeg9E3A6485-EF41-4F7A-A305-BF9D389EDD31 (resized).jpeg35AB7822-8F7B-4912-882D-C528D0CB1506 (resized).jpeg0075F903-D020-4E15-9777-16E29DE05E5D (resized).jpeg2F8166DC-0ACE-428B-B8AC-EF4CF81A119F (resized).jpegFBF1A8E1-8275-4DCE-A80F-8E3A1E68767D (resized).jpegQuoted from High_End_Pins:The Black hole shop out is complete.
Not sure if it is common knowledge but the replacement blue window I received did not fit
it was too big and had to be carefully shaved and shaped to fit.
I got that from Marco.[quoted image][quoted image][quotedThe windows are correct, it was variance in the playfields. I have shopped a half dozen Black Holes and only one replacement window fit 100%. The reat I had to shave down to fit.
Pin looks Great. I love seeing this era of pin working. Was always my favorite game.
I think it's safe to say Marco's parts are becoming more and more garbage. As pinball enthusiasts, we should all be vocal to them about this.
I don’t know if you covered this before. With your restorations what do you do for all the factory stickers. Like model and serial tags, all the little s/n tags, inspection tags? If you don’t want to make public you can pm me.
Quoted from nitrojcrawf:I don’t know if you covered this before. With your restorations what do you do for all the factory stickers. Like model and serial tags, all the little s/n tags, inspection tags? If you don’t want to make public you can pm me.
I have wondered the same.
Quoted from nitrojcrawf:I don’t know if you covered this before. With your restorations what do you do for all the factory stickers. Like model and serial tags, all the little s/n tags, inspection tags? If you don’t want to make public you can pm me.
There are a couple people on here that make these by request.
The generic ones like fuse,power outlet etc I keep a stock of.
The really specific ones like the serial tags I include if I can or they are requested.
I was pretty busy over the weekend. With the holiday coming up and all that but I managed to get a few things done here and there.
First up is Spirit 2s transformer panel.
511DC7A9-3290-40B5-9C5A-FB9222BD99B3 (resized).jpeg67294E84-0F16-41CF-BF57-784937E404DD (resized).jpegA1DCC332-983A-421D-AD53-37A5A2BADCDE (resized).jpeg93C8F58D-066A-4F23-819D-19C7F38F73D1 (resized).jpeg116A80E2-0AC2-41D6-89B9-C13FD33252C5 (resized).jpegThen I have been working through the POTO coil assemblies.
Right now I am just in a run of train wrecks and it can be really hard to get any momentum going when everything you touch needs so much extra attention outside of what is already really tedious and time consuming work.
I know there was some question earlier about having the multi part brackets plated as one piece instead of a total breakdown.
As I mentioned at that time this is done to protect the threads and keep the piece count down/parts reasonably easy to keep up with for the plater.
Now that I have them back I am able to break them down and install new screws.
For a coil bracket application it works very well and keeps the part from being ruined if it were strictly based on appearance not a mechanical part I would take a different approach.
062C6244-F18D-4D6C-8C19-8E65BA57BF8B (resized).jpeg82E29DCC-FAD0-4657-BC74-9ABEDD071B4E (resized).jpeg433D0D97-6437-4C76-B892-30E6178A195F (resized).jpegFC447C3D-B6A0-4B46-9BBA-F4A4E142E176 (resized).jpeg5F0F56F6-FDDD-44BA-B78B-9C3EFAB4E054 (resized).jpegDDB4E520-0A4A-4077-A00B-977ACD384A3D (resized).jpeg0112A46F-FF11-420D-8C65-2811A9D69A85 (resized).jpegPOTO flippers.
These were trashed
F594A0C6-D58C-411E-B9EF-A795BDB92773 (resized).jpeg5BCAD20D-92ED-48EB-B4A3-ED36C2182E1A (resized).jpegB642DA7F-8B20-4871-ACA3-E438B01238C3 (resized).jpeg80034DDA-818B-4560-BA11-87191965A1DD (resized).jpegThen there are the POTO pops and slings.
I had to start off with new pop bumper assemblies and then adapt them for the Data East switch stacks.
The slings were beat. I used clear tubing to protect the pivots and c clip slots from plating.
8DDDD1F5-5E7B-4117-BF3E-77C57862CF0F (resized).jpeg478A9014-21C3-4280-87BB-DCAE34115980 (resized).jpeg4FA921DF-F868-4E0E-8527-66D09640BDD3 (resized).jpeg7E6E21D2-8625-4DAC-BB79-4DE0030E3964 (resized).jpegF439233C-632C-4FAF-A37C-DC648D05B757 (resized).jpeg48976C7A-7FB6-4DBA-A7D3-AC4266C0B99E (resized).jpeg5D05B923-CA00-47D4-93F9-948A2C478B56 (resized).jpeg7A5EDE0B-12D5-4426-86E7-F642C529F42D (resized).jpeg4F1F9B83-8EFD-4A44-ABAF-548172FA9517 (resized).jpeg595BAC6D-BC01-4CEB-82C3-89708AB84311 (resized).jpeg5A6621AD-86BA-485D-A3BE-9A01E5CE6F9F (resized).jpegCAD81535-5163-4C1E-BAE9-C8D898950BBE (resized).jpeg45B98573-CF52-4F71-B999-D6F296E1DC4E (resized).jpeg
I finally made it through the POTO coils.
That was a job.
The assemblies were all butched together,wrong screws,wrong springs wrong plungers,broken ball cups could be found on nearly every one.
Stuff like that plus the metal conditioning makes a job that should take a couple hours take a couple days.
Even the trough switch plate had to be done.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgSo the one thing left to figure out and address on the POTO is the apron
image (resized).jpg
It’s not in terrible condition but it also isn’t going to be in good enough condition to match up with the rest of the game once completed.
The biggest issue is the chalkiness of the gold
It is very fragile.
image (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpg
There is a scratch in the lettering as well
image (resized).jpg
The trough entrance is a bit hammered.
image (resized).jpg
The first steps will be to clean it but I already know from past experience that this gold like color on the apron is going to be hard to deal with and I may have to make some changes if I want to get a better overall look.
The playfield for the Poto has settled very well I could easily sand and polish it and begin assembling and that was my plan
75DB82C1-6804-4280-AB96-9163B78A47AC (resized).jpeg
I did notice two things though that are more obvious as the clear settled in and everything gels together
There is a little insert settling in the phantoms hat area.
Very tough to spot unless the light hits it just right. I could work with that but I also notice a break in the black. BEC61EC9-167F-414C-9EB1-8FE36DC2A959 (resized).jpeg
One other concern is that there are just a couple lines of deeper grain settlement. 254999C1-4AE5-4B45-BE9B-9503C58BC181 (resized).jpeg
Those two things are enough to make me decide to hit this one more time since I am doing the apron now anyway.
Sanded 4133ED12-8584-4DDC-A92C-99B08DA15E19 (resized).jpeg
Masked and painted
D6B564F6-4130-4A8D-BEAA-170CB6A520D5 (resized).jpeg
Cleared for the final time. Just lightly at this point because the heavier coats earlier in the process have built the foundation. This is just detail work.
6834EAE9-A744-489E-A742-84F72732AAB1 (resized).jpeg185D790A-7B36-4099-AD3F-92446E6F94DA (resized).jpeg224E0D89-B0CA-4136-BB64-2A8CB60DB937 (resized).jpeg07154D94-46C8-44FC-A34A-1A48DCDAD5D2 (resized).jpegThe other playfield in the mix right now is the poorly stored NOS BSD
That one also could easily go as is after sanding and polishing but again I feel like I can squeeze just a little more out of it.
4C21B0B9-9CAB-4A32-81F7-410F122D1FC9 (resized).jpeg
There is a faint line in Dracs hair A0CDB739-1831-4C6F-B604-E7D77147379E (resized).jpeg
Small divot that was previously a deep gouge
5CB7BB7C-1361-4E24-897E-29A72366EB42 (resized).jpeg
Sanded F7510B95-078B-4DF7-AACD-C7D59BB8D60D (resized).jpeg
Masked and painted
01E12D15-B095-474A-9357-01E21296919B (resized).jpeg
Cleared.
19E0852D-61FF-49EF-AA64-D11D1CA6BFB1 (resized).jpegCC2CA7B3-F051-4AEE-836E-BBF05A3CB1EE (resized).jpegCC363EAB-09DE-4F9F-897D-C227353974DB (resized).jpegD93F4E18-900E-4E5D-99B1-AB627FB1DE59 (resized).jpegchris,
does jetsy offer a set of stencils for the PotO apron? that would be killer if he did and you could re-do it just like a cabinet
lots of weeding though 
umm chris… the canadian mountie appears to have fallen of his horse on your bottle. was it the 11.3% that caused him to do so? 
Quoted from j_m_:the canadian mountie appears to have fallen of his horse on your bottle.
I think they got sued or were asked to stop using the mountie. It's no longer Canadian Breakfast Stout, it's just CBS. I thought Canadians were supposed to be polite!
Quoted from j_m_:umm chris… the canadian mountie appears to have fallen of his horse on your bottle. was it the 11.3% that caused him to do so?
Yeah but it’s what’s inside that counts
I love seeing your work posted. It makes my work look like I'm just dickin' around, and i love it!
Very inspiring
-Paul
OK. I'm throwing in the towel. I need advice. I am restoring a pin and love how HEP puts plugs on coils and switches underneath the playfield. I have looked everywhere through this thread and countless sites online and I can't seem to find a standardized molex configuration. Hopefully it's something so simple that I'm just missing. Trying to determine which wire goes into the pointed end of the molex plug. I thought I've see it both ways... The positive in the point? The negative in the point? I tried blowing up pictures to see the band on the diode to see if there was a consistent side for the plug.
I've see Chris even reverse the male and female pins so that someone couldn't plug in the wrong coil/switch. Is the pin/wire placement random or is there a system people follow? Thanks.
Quoted from hd60609:OK. I'm throwing in the towel. I need advice. I am restoring a pin and love how HEP puts plugs on coils and switches underneath the playfield. I have looked everywhere through this thread and countless sites online and I can't seem to find a standardized molex configuration. Hopefully it's something so simple that I'm just missing. Trying to determine which wire goes into the pointed end of the molex plug. I thought I've see it both ways... The positive in the point? The negative in the point? I tried blowing up pictures to see the band on the diode to see if there was a consistent side for the plug.
I've see Chris even reverse the male and female pins so that someone couldn't plug in the wrong coil/switch. Is the pin/wire placement random or is there a system people follow? Thanks.
Doesn't really matter as long as you're consistent on your machines, IMO. It's just to keep you from getting connections backwards. Since it's not a factory thing (except for recent pins by AP, etc), it's open to invention.
Quoted from hd60609:OK. I'm throwing in the towel. I need advice. I am restoring a pin and love how HEP puts plugs on coils and switches underneath the playfield. I have looked everywhere through this thread and countless sites online and I can't seem to find a standardized molex configuration. Hopefully it's something so simple that I'm just missing. Trying to determine which wire goes into the pointed end of the molex plug. I thought I've see it both ways... The positive in the point? The negative in the point? I tried blowing up pictures to see the band on the diode to see if there was a consistent side for the plug.
I've see Chris even reverse the male and female pins so that someone couldn't plug in the wrong coil/switch. Is the pin/wire placement random or is there a system people follow? Thanks.
when I did it on the joust playfield swap that I just recently completed, I tried to use the following standards
- always keep the common wire at the bottom of the connector (this gives you a visual sanity check) that you're not going to inadvertently reverse the [hot] wire and the ground from one coil to the next
- if the harness connectors that I added were in the same proximity as another same-type connector, this is where I started to vary the pins (pins on the coil side, socket on the harness side, or combinations there of when 3 or more were close enough that they could be accidentally plugged into each other
- I used 0.062 for switch and lamp connections and 0.093 for power (except where I was passing a harness through the playfield with a very short run and had a very small hole to push the connector through
the easiest way to do this is add the connectors to your existing harness one at a time with everything still in place. this way you can double-check your work immediately (rather than try and track down a potentially bad crimp, wire that has slid out of the connector, etc...)
Quoted from j_m_:when I did it on the joust playfield swap that I just recently completed, I tried to use the following standards
- always keep the common wire at the bottom of the connector (this gives you a visual sanity check) that you're not going to inadvertently reverse the [hot] wire and the ground from one coil to the next
- if the harness connectors that I added were in the same proximity as another same-type connector, this is where I started to vary the pins (pins on the coil side, socket on the harness side, or combinations there of when 3 or more were close enough that they could be accidentally plugged into each other
- I used 0.062 for switch and lamp connections and 0.093 for power (except where I was passing a harness through the playfield with a very short run and had a very small hole to push the connector through
the easiest way to do this is add the connectors to your existing harness one at a time with everything still in place. this way you can double-check your work immediately (rather than try and track down a potentially bad crimp, wire that has slid out of the connector, etc...)
Excellent advice!
Quoted from hd60609:OK. I'm throwing in the towel. I need advice. I am restoring a pin and love how HEP puts plugs on coils and switches underneath the playfield. I have looked everywhere through this thread and countless sites online and I can't seem to find a standardized molex configuration. Hopefully it's something so simple that I'm just missing. Trying to determine which wire goes into the pointed end of the molex plug. I thought I've see it both ways... The positive in the point? The negative in the point? I tried blowing up pictures to see the band on the diode to see if there was a consistent side for the plug.
I've see Chris even reverse the male and female pins so that someone couldn't plug in the wrong coil/switch. Is the pin/wire placement random or is there a system people follow? Thanks.
You can always make your own system as long as it is consistent and you put some fool proof provisions in to protect the components.
My system is pretty well thought out some of it is just what I absorbed from years of teardown other things implemented are common sense or wish list type items.
Here is a overview off the POTO harness since it is close by.
First coils.
.93 pins and either a two or three pin connector.
Generally two for regular coils with female pins on the main harness and male on the actual coil pigtail. image (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpg
The common wire is always placed in the number one position or “tip”
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
Three pins on the flipper or larger coils it’s the same female pin/male pin set up
image (resized).jpg
On the occasional situation where a coil plug must pass through a smaller hole a .62 set up is used.
This
image (resized).jpg
Must pass through here for example image (resized).jpg
Can’t be done with a .93
When it comes to the switches they are done on a .62 connector base and I order banks within the connectors exactly as they are laid out on the playfield.
Common tips followed by that order so for example. This connector is for the left mid target bank.
image (resized).jpg
Colors used are Green/Black(common each target shares this)
Top target White/Orange
Mid target White/Red
Bottom Target White/Brown
I noted this on the teardown playfield
image (resized).jpg
Then copied it to the assembly.
image (resized).jpg
Then ordered it the same way within the connector housing using pin 1 as the very top and working towards pin 4 as the very bottom just like the playfield layout.
Pin 1 Green/black(common)
Pin 2 White / orange(Top)
Pin 3 White /Red(Mid)
Pin 4 White /brown(Bottom)
image (resized).jpg
Doing this makes things make sense and easy to isolate or follow.
There is much more thought put into than that but I will leave it there for now.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Doing this makes things make sense and easy to isolate or follow.
There is much more thought put into than that but I will leave it there for now.
Thanks, this is a ton of info. Pure gold.
Black hole was shuffled out and delivered. Right in time for Christmas.
8D5CC5F5-9B22-4075-854D-87F088E23CB3 (resized).jpeg
Judge Dredd arrived
03CA2591-8450-4607-A478-DF67172C8B0E (resized).jpeg
Now I am ready to prep Spirit 3 for paint then the POTO and BSD playfield for polishing.
EF3A5F15-3AAE-47BB-A6C2-999DEECE4DFB (resized).jpegC9E5F3DE-21DF-46D5-BD78-5D0C595F296C (resized).jpegSpirit 3 cabinet is ready to start painting.
I will probably just do the base and speckles first then clear that before proceeding later in the week with the stenciling.
This is because the speckling can take some fine tuning ,creates a tougher texture initially and I don’t want any part of the stenciling to be hampered by that.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgMerry Christmas to you and your family, Chris.
Thank you for the greatest thread on pinside and I look forward to following along again next year!
Quoted from cosmokramer:Merry Christmas to you and your family, Chris.
Thank you for the greatest thread on pinside and I look forward to following along again next year!
Thanks same to you!
Spirit 2 cabinet is slowly building up. These system 80s are a lot of work.
Everything is built like a tank and they use so many brackets and bolts to do so many things.
The condition of this one in particular has been adding to the workload.
Anything I need to reuse comes with rust,corrosion or a surprise. Sometimes all three like this part.
0B1759BE-778A-4B48-A983-8DE33CCF79E0 (resized).jpeg61173DC3-74C6-4C9B-9958-4BAAF9A44041 (resized).jpegWhat I am doing on these type of brackets that need to be reconditioned but still maintain threading and A good ground is to blast them.
64C606BB-AA79-4591-9484-8CAE1E7908E9 (resized).jpeg
Then lightly metal etc. this will give them a decent look,protect from rusting and be light and thin enough to still thread and ground easily. B018FF4A-5365-4DBC-9E2B-0AA61A002FD6 (resized).jpeg
41247515-20C3-4E48-95DA-8BEDAC9B7E0E (resized).jpeg
After they are installed a full set of skids are installed.
09E0B2FC-D2E5-4538-8EBF-EF9AA22AC412 (resized).jpeg
C057CA1F-ABBC-4007-8A28-902A63068F88 (resized).jpegQuoted from High_End_Pins:Spirit 2 cabinet is slowly building up. These system 80s are a lot of work.
Everything is built like a tank and they use so many brackets and bolts to do so many things.
The condition of this one in particular has been adding to the workload.
Anything I need to reuse comes with rust,corrosion or a surprise. Sometimes all three like this part.[quoted image][quoted image]
Wow! I hope Spirit 4 (mine!) is less of a headache!
Quoted from ToucanF16:Wow! I hope Spirit 4 (mine!) is less of a headache!
It Is probably about the same but might be a little better in the metal condition department.
In general I don’t do EMs or Gottliebs because I don’t have the infrastructure here to turn them out and support them like I do for the 70s and up solid state Bally Williams games.
Many of these parts had it been a Bally Williams game I would have spares of already plated,polished and ready to go.
Same thing with boards etc.
My knowledge and comfort level with those is much higher so I can get really deep into them without documenting or concerns and keep them moving through the process.
When I am dealing with games like this Spirit I have to do the best I can with what my resources are at the time or keep pushing it to the back of the line every time something pops up I don’t have or wasn’t expecting.
The need to document each and everything no matter how minor is also an issue.
The good news is on Spirit 2 I am able to go much deeper than I could on Spirit 1 and I am getting a much better understanding of how things are built and creating a system for that.
It is not that there is anything wrong in my eyes with EMs or these Gottliebs it is just simply that in the last almost 20 years only a handful of them have passed through here and you can’t build a knowledge base or infrastructure with such a limited exposure or demand.
Spirit 2 is continuing on.
The head is building up and almost ready to place in the lower.
These games use a very complex latching/locking system for the glass and lamp panel.
Locating and placing each and every bracket and part of that system accurately is tricky.
All measuring is done from the front because I had the cabinet heads built with 1/2 backs instead of the paper thin material originally used so the means if I were to measure from the back now everything would be roughly 3/8 off.
Lots of math there and something few could appreciate when just glancing at the game.
This is critical. If off the glass won’t lock or fit,the lamp panel won’t open correctly and the lock could be difficult to operate.
D268214E-7A7F-4817-B6BC-20ED070BA848 (resized).jpegAFE1CDC2-6DD7-4D52-851F-428383738109 (resized).jpeg0FA54DEE-91C7-4B2C-ABCF-79419C812B22 (resized).jpegE27536D6-CFAE-4DF5-96E9-F46DE2D99F46 (resized).jpegThe rear glass channel installs by sandwhiching between the rear spacer panel.
Countersink screws are used then touched up with the actual cabinets paint for a more seamless look.
9CCBFBC5-CDED-41C1-8A98-F5A1FEF7A6A7 (resized).jpegC82D559E-B47C-4576-9559-AEF2725D6947 (resized).jpegCC720537-3BEA-4ED5-8A31-2E7AA10C94C2 (resized).jpeg9C8C4364-434C-4A9B-9B7D-8DF4C47CFCBB (resized).jpegWanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
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South Berwick, ME
Moe