Addams Family, The
Bally, 1992
Alien (Heighway Pinball)
Heighway Pinball, 2017
Black Knight
Williams, 1980
Bram Stoker's Dracula
Williams, 1993
Centaur
Bally, 1981
Centigrade 37
Gottlieb, 1977
Champion Pub
Bally, 1998
Creature from the Black Lagoon
Bally, 1992The lower is done the same way.
A slight bevel was made during the repair process of the cabinet around the start button.
That is then also done in the decal for a more durable application.
92109F4D-3566-4443-AEBB-496E0D118482 (resized).jpeg14488B72-A442-4B92-B6C5-DE1D814C795D (resized).jpeg008655AB-4909-4C1D-AF6E-65EAECEB8805 (resized).jpeg58B26AA6-2BD2-4C99-8951-7E69CE756159 (resized).jpegLower POTO is all set and can be reassembled.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgI opened a box for the POTO labeled side rails.
Nice and new 
A39329D0-CCE2-4969-AFB2-F2082F1D33E1 (resized).jpeg
But too short 
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I will rework the originals. It is a bit of a process. They can’t simply be powder coated because they need to be straightened
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Clamp them in a vise with some wood to get the bends out.
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Then work them over with a peck hammer.
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B9FC378F-8D71-49CE-BA7E-AD8044A1A0BE (resized).jpeg
Structural work is done.
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Then sanded and the remaining low spots are wiped with filler. Then sanded straight.
67E00595-E2EC-40FD-AC73-0E9947D950C0 (resized).jpeg41399441-58C1-4F8F-8AE1-C25D3466A21F (resized).jpeg644EEFFA-3406-4E28-905F-65365538FDF2 (resized).jpeg
The rails are ready to refinish.
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Rattle cans are the only option on some types of products. If you use them there is no way you can really shake them by hand well enough to really mix the contents thoroughly.
This is why a paint shaker is a needed tool
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The first step is to etch the bare metal. Done
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Now we need to create that textured finish.
First step there will be black chip guard.
If you keep a can of IJ on hand it is essential that you clean the tip before and after each use. This stuff is made to shield the lower portion of cars and trucks from chipping so ruining a plastic spray tip is no problem for it.
5750C100-EAA2-4B5A-88CF-48E94B9A86FA (resized).jpegF9B8CB95-467C-4859-B9FC-B9D363B6D163 (resized).jpegDD7FBF0C-1756-4C1A-82C8-4FA632B37B90 (resized).jpeg7F67CE0E-FD6C-41E2-8F2C-D0D31C5EB9C7 (resized).jpegThe first pass of chip guard is sprayed.
It is black and there is absolutely an art to spraying it to get the finish you are looking for.
812B74A6-0138-49FA-9EA9-A218215EC2F0 (resized).jpegE92EC5E5-EB7D-40ED-8942-421504673227 (resized).jpeg83C6F3CC-0162-47A6-A5B2-F72FD6FD8C63 (resized).jpeg1E67F42B-4BCE-45B5-87A7-EC53057D6EB5 (resized).jpegThe next pass is done with clear chip guard. Exact same product but clear and glossy.
This will add some depth to the finish and continue the layering process.
This will not be the final finish just another step towards it.
475F5D19-B5CD-4A51-A258-45CD8FC372D6 (resized).jpegD222A933-A789-45A3-9E4D-178D72F6F8AE (resized).jpeg4781A717-A19A-4174-9125-173DD2144A69 (resized).jpegE9492A9D-5AF3-475C-B025-757A031F32A7 (resized).jpegThe final step is to spray it once again with the satin black chip guard.
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This is done very strategically to also create more depth and layering as well as fine tune the final sheen.
Looks about right no more dents.
24C038A8-217B-4CF9-B4F8-0E2BEACB680A (resized).jpeg37FC569C-E9FF-44E4-8F5F-AB7EA5CCCBEC (resized).jpeg140B932C-7D65-41F2-AEF3-60EF60854DBE (resized).jpeg1185BB9A-B5A8-46B7-AECC-32C17D5A5B9C (resized).jpegF2CFC311-2463-44F0-8B31-E9538E22DF59 (resized).jpegNow that the rails are in order I will need to make some black screws to hold them on instead of nails.
I use a small case #4 x1/2 inch. These also are used to hold on bumper caps.
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Can’t sand them best to blast. BECD8D4C-E924-4E86-B9E0-5ACDA05262FE (resized).jpeg
Did that 61CFA7D5-E6DB-4FE4-A67D-26B42BA2A36F (resized).jpeg
Now metal etch. E9F33C1C-B1C1-43B8-8885-9326BEDE84CB (resized).jpeg
Good to go.
B28EA8FD-C3F2-4BE2-BCCE-53AB3D87F917 (resized).jpegQuoted from pintechev:Unreal
No kidding. Every day I open this thread and every day I'm astounded at what Chris does.
POTO cabinet is back on four legs.
Has upgraded leg plates one had to be cut to clear the cord housing.
New door was needed. I will see if I have any red reject buttons that fit at some point.
I will also see if I can light the start button if so it will probably just be GI
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgI am drooling over this POTO restore. Just amazing (as always). Makes mine look like a turd
Chris
We start this Monday off at the warehouse loading up Fathoms.
One of these goes with the POTO.
The other with the long ago completed Special Centaur.
I was held up waiting for decent side rails for one the other didn’t make much sense to worry about until I got the POTO a bit further along
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgChris, is that just a sheet of masonite on the truck bed? I have a lined bed, and would like to find a means to easily slide games onto the bed without damaging the bottom.
I have a small lot of cabinets I would like to get rid of.
They are STTNG ,MM
A really nice lower cab for T2 and BSD that has been decaled with gloss black powder coated trim.
image (resized).jpg
No pictures or packing and shipping just want to get them out of the way. if they were junk I would have done this with them.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgQuoted from sgtski1978:Chris, is that just a sheet of masonite on the truck bed? I have a lined bed, and would like to find a means to easily slide games onto the bed without damaging the bottom.
Yes works great.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Yes works great.
Thanks, Chris
Here is the issue with the rails.
This is a Marco rail.
image (resized).jpg
The direction of the grain is all wrong. image (resized).jpg
It’s paper thin and flimsy. image (resized).jpg
This is a pinballife rail.
image (resized).jpg
The grain is the proper direction.
image (resized).jpg
It is nice and sturdy about twice as thick as the Marco version.
image (resized).jpg
The Marco version is good for powder coating since the direction of the grain is irrelevant at that point and the thinner material gives some room for the added thickness of the powder but if installing the rails as is is desired the Pinballlife rails are the best option.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:I have a small lot of cabinets I would like to get rid of.
They are STTNG ,MM
A really nice lower cab for T2 and BSD that has been decaled with gloss black powder coated trim.
[quoted image]
No pictures or packing and shipping just want to get them out of the way. if they were junk I would have done this with them.[quoted image][quoted image]
Wish I lived close, I would take that T2 cab.
After working through various wiring hacks
7D305F73-DAB3-4C36-BA30-7FFBD112F741 (resized).jpeg2ED47D88-A498-4B2D-A94C-2A6720C1E3BF (resized).jpegmaking a drilling template for the side pivots and hardware 159A6E92-B6DB-4CE0-A78B-758646C47775 (resized).jpeg
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
Then measuring and comparing everything
8B2F0E3A-2718-46F3-8DAC-96CECC8BD0A6 (resized).jpeg8F6E6007-59F1-4D63-9AD6-EA8DE0E27B7C (resized).jpeg
test fitting everything
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Quoted from heni1977:The good ole twisted wire trick! Did they at least put some solder on it?[quoted image]
I think so.
They ran this one straight from the target bank to the head.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgI unpacked and set up the second Fathom that came in the Big time cabinet.
4CE249D5-5594-4670-9A27-3D2717ADDE74 (resized).jpeg
As predicted there are some concerns.
First the foam it was packed in is stuck to the face.
Hopefully I can deal with that.
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Next the paint job kind of sucks because the corners don’t meet AADD384A-D757-4212-8152-12B597C6313A (resized).jpeg
Next I had a HELL of a time getting the backglass out. I had to pry the thing out.
4492A882-B93E-41AB-A0A3-5F00DC44E1BE (resized).jpeg
The issue is that it is missing the proper reliefs for the lock arm.
This is correct as shown on Fathom 1
7A887265-6FB9-45E6-A75D-A443E80725DB (resized).jpeg
This is incorrect as shown on the Big Time Cabinet fathom 2
5ADD5A50-792A-4725-81FB-BF8F5115E957 (resized).jpeg
As I unpack everything the scope of the project becomes more evident.
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The first thing I did was install the protectors at the legs and bevel the bottom edge of the cabinet.
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After setting Fathom 2 up next to number 1 I am really having second thoughts about the Big time Cabinet
I hate the colors,nothing seems to fit,the paint job sucks,the foam imbedded in the face .The ground braid is a mess and while it is factoryish it just isn’t my style.
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Three of the main things I focus on with my cabinets are that everything fits easily especially the backglass
The art work matches up corner to corner.
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Another really important part is color choice and scheme.
The cabinet shades should match the apron and backglass shades if possible.
The BTC isn’t close
Fathom 1’s lamp panel was in rough shape.
Instead of making a new one I can salvage this one.
First strip it E38D0346-DC8B-479C-8C9F-4AD8075FA679 (resized).jpeg
Second sand flat and fiberglass glaze it since it is mdf
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Now bust that down
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Took a bit
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Prime
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Guidecoat
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Dried overnight
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Sanded and painted
Also dried overnight.
8352F6D1-A044-4B44-A33F-8555273CFEA0 (resized).jpeg644BAD67-DECC-48F0-A8EF-351FFB6DB1A8 (resized).jpeg7F11277C-D910-44A1-AB19-C0DA93202D40 (resized).jpegBack to POTO for a minute.
I prepped painted and cleared the wireforms.
The original coating was in good shape with just a little spot of wear in a spot or two so it was best to refresh them.
These will hold up even better this way because they have the original powder coat plus a light coat of fresh red base followed by two medium coats of clear.
327879C6-CC75-4F6C-8163-B8CDC8310AEF (resized).jpeg0D0E0BF4-8604-4C03-B656-639CF3BE0402 (resized).jpegB11A47B4-F743-48E2-A3D4-8DF6D19502F6 (resized).jpegYour wooden dollies you use under the cabinets for painting, would you care to share the dimensions? Are they built that size for a particular reason?
Quoted from nitrojcrawf:Your wooden dollies you use under the cabinets for painting, would you care to share the dimensions? Are they built that size for a particular reason?
48 long
16 wide
21 tall(without wheels)
They are just built in similar dimensions to a standard pinball dolly.
They are easily stacked and heads or other parts can be screwed to them if needed.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgFathom 1 lamp panel is rebuilt and placed.
New sockets,insulated wire
59259E0F-17CC-485C-B8B1-476F893E18E9 (resized).jpeg295CF9E2-F9C8-40F8-992F-4FC4C88B9CA2 (resized).jpeg23EA7812-E7D0-4B27-95EA-311CD42ED0D2 (resized).jpegC4EC48D8-5416-415E-A891-7FD82F4E2917 (resized).jpegDE660100-F948-45EC-B031-810E5B0C2BEB (resized).jpegQuoted from High_End_Pins:They are just built in similar dimensions to a standard pinball dolly.
They are easily stacked and heads or other parts can be screwed to them if needed.
Who helps you pick up and place CABs onto and off the dollies for painting or other assembly processes.
or does all your workouts allow you to man handle it all yourself?
I am ready to settle in and start the Fathom 1 playfield build up. I have already thoroughly cleaned the wiring.
First step is to get the banks off and onto plugs.
image (resized).jpg
These are probably the worst two since they have the knock down feature which means 4 coils and three switches per bank
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgQuoted from pinwiztom:Who helps you pick up and place CABs onto and off the dollies for painting or other assembly processes.
or does all your workouts allow you to man handle it all yourself?
I can generally manage the empty cabinets myself but if not then it’s the wife or Curtis that are there when needed.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:I will enlist the help of the yeti.[quoted image]
That looks so good!
After tearing down the old Fathom 1 playfield and adding the various connectors I am ready to build up the new one.
A9FA81D6-DA8A-4B75-A391-89B88EDDD45C (resized).jpeg97A8ACB0-0D0E-4770-8AC2-DD8A5BB50593 (resized).jpeg088182F2-9648-4C7F-BE1D-0E1D7A2C0542 (resized).jpegF8B1AD19-07D9-476E-96D0-6CBE76DB9EDD (resized).jpeg69EE4D0B-CF29-4645-AAEA-A8FA03665C42 (resized).jpeg375E9A44-C36D-4E95-B263-B59F01D66AC8 (resized).jpegQuoted from High_End_Pins:Fathom 1 playfield slowly building up.
The wire guide holes have been a challenge.
There are lots of them and many were hard to spot or in need of adjustment.[quoted image][quoted image]
Mirror-polished ball guides are so great. Love that look.
Quoted from PinMonk:Mirror-polished ball guides are so great. Love that look.
That is factory on these.
I actually had a set of stainless I debated on using but these polished back up well with only a slight trail.
Ready to flip and wire shouldn’t be too bad once I get through the lamp sockets.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgWanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
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Matthews, NC
Did they at least put some solder on it?