Spirit 3 and IJ cabinets are primed and guidecoated.
Pink guidecoat today
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Pink guidecoat today.
What, were you listening to Ladies Night by Kool and the Gang when you painted them?
Quoted from littlecammi:What, were you listening to Ladies Night by Kool and the Gang when you painted them?
No I was prepping for horny time with the wife
It is probably just the last color I painted something since it was on the counter.
The POTO cabinet repairs are complete.
I won’t bother masking the inside floor because the primer will act as a wood like overspray that’s I can later sand for a cleaner look.
I won’t spray the floor with the primer but just let the overspray fall in mist.
This is one of the main reasons I use the buff color primer though it rarely comes up.
POTO cabinet is primed and guidecoated. The grain is a little bit of a question mark still so this may settle in well enough to just sand and paint or it may require another primer coat. That isn’t normal but a possibility on this cabinet.
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Quoted from flynnibus:I'm anxious to see how this one turns out...
Yeah, it's a beautiful pin when it's like new. Problem is, there are almost none in the wild that look like new.
Data East did I believe 7 proto POTOs. One of which housed 9 Bose speakers in the cabinet and I believe 5 in the backbox. They used a sound board out of a video game to run it, unbelievable. I wonder why it never made it to production LOL. I thought you were going to get it years ago. I guess you never saw it? HM collection.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Might require a creative paint pattern on the transformer stand off.
I did this with my F-14.
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My first restore so don't critique me too much
POTO cabinet is sanded inside and out.
I would like to use a little better looking start button.
DE uses a thin piece of fiber board as a backer for the button
That is removed. 58E8F6BB-1CA5-4AE8-A2C0-D8EBD706B36A (resized).jpeg
I have what I need to make a new one up. 2F16DCE5-6A37-41C4-B487-F0D0C18941D8 (resized).jpeg
New one is placed. A5C00E4E-1363-4CAB-85D3-72DD25B15C0C (resized).jpeg
Next I will drill it to fit my desired button.
All set. Not the button I will actually use but same style.
Quoted from heni1977:I did this with my F-14.
[quoted image]
My first restore so don't critique me too much
Just makes me think Larry Blackmon
IJ and POTO cabinet are painted and cleared along with the hardware.
I had a 16 hour day yesterday and started really early today so I am going to take it light the rest of the day.
I am sure I will find something pinball related to do in a couple hours when I get bored.
MMMMMMMMM, Dragon's milk is yummy!!!!
Quoted from PinMonk:Just makes me think Larry Blackmon
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Annnnnnnd NO!!!!!!
Quoted from heni1977:MMMMMMMMM, Dragon's milk is yummy!!!!
That Dragon's Milk Triple Mash is excellent!
https://dragonsmilk.com/dragons-milk-triple-mash
I managed to get a second wind and finish pulling the wiring on the playfield.
879D4056-C9F9-406D-B22F-6A0281479500 (resized).jpeg
17C01DB9-2CB6-4012-91F2-4DB5A8D00838 (resized).jpeg
That wiring was cleaned and has most of its future connectors laid out
BF0DB008-F440-410F-BF99-619DD582C75A (resized).jpeg
The things I ran into along the way were
Rusty sockets
2D8E3000-5293-4C63-99EA-130F037E4124 (resized).jpeg
All three pop bumper housings are broken
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4D068C93-DCDB-4D17-A06E-F9DF1F5D89CA (resized).jpeg
POTO playfield is ready to drill now that I have the proper reference material.
This is what we start with. 6C889772-44B8-419C-8319-BCF2CC114F42 (resized).jpeg
46E7A7FD-F0BA-4888-94D6-FFDCE9F3FF72 (resized).jpeg
This are the type of holes missing. 39B8835B-09E7-47C1-9825-D56BE6276CBC (resized).jpeg
With the old screwed to the new away we go.
The underside is semi dimpled. BB9D67A3-391F-4C13-BE92-8F591530D335 (resized).jpeg
There are a four t nuts that need to recess 5BEA0CA6-B270-4EC6-8F15-D087E74CA2ED (resized).jpeg
0784A0A7-12DE-4005-92BA-05E69C796002 (resized).jpeg
Did that. F9A2EE57-5ED1-489E-9BB9-BFA2B9B2D542 (resized).jpeg
Now to better dimple/ pre drill
I make a stop for the bit.
AC1A1884-03A0-4BB9-BECF-20B1B4C23F86 (resized).jpeg
FBFC6914-9DC5-4B01-9CCC-0706066C8DFC (resized).jpeg
Drilled. D2DEF773-944B-4F87-84AB-708412F97D39 (resized).jpeg
All done.
The POTO playfield is ready to prep for another coat of clear. 68939290-BBEB-421D-BAD7-4AC6D226A5E8 (resized).jpeg
Playfield is sanded and a slight bevel is put in place on some of the holes that commonly chip or wear. This slight rounding will greatly help with future durability.
Then the playfield is clean and any minor touch ups done from the drilling.
While I am dealing with the POTO playfield I also filter the NOS BSD back in.
AE8436D0-DF3D-4F3D-9A93-8658ED8934A9 (resized).jpeg
It’s way past what you would normally have to deal with on a NOS but after today the worst should be done.
The gouges have settled back in the previously applied finish.
71E7F159-6940-48A9-97EA-29DD4102DEAD (resized).jpeg
E096FCC3-DC3F-4ACB-A497-400F8EAAE1BC (resized).jpeg
116DA46E-AFDA-4814-8209-D98C216101FF (resized).jpeg
The mildew in the pores of the wood
AB056C90-0C77-4DB9-8FC7-6CB8A47B9E21 (resized).jpeg
96EA10FC-2405-4577-A5A9-ED16ADB32E62 (resized).jpeg
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A crack in Dracula’s head and the blue area around it. This is a really tough fix because of the small details in his head,color match of the blue.
First I had to do a little fiberglass work to fix a blowout where t nuts run close to both a large hole and the edge. DCA54D58-F848-4DC5-A571-51FE1BC69909 (resized).jpeg
The repair is made then the playfield is sanded.
The playfield is masked and the wood areas of concern are lightly frosted.
CD0EC21C-98F5-472B-A64F-BD782E5B6BE5 (resized).jpeg
These would be areas that had mildew or were repaired. These are just initial repaints. More attention may be needed later. 0B85DCB9-DC87-4539-8A47-A2A56AC4E4B6 (resized).jpeg
D4118F0D-DE31-4927-8DB8-CB8995CBC55F (resized).jpeg
Dracs face and the blue are done neither will be absolutely perfect matches because there is so little paint needed I couldn’t justify mixing pints or quarts to attempt to match perfectly even then it would not be guaranteed.
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The playfield is unmasked. The holes are looking better and so is dracs face.
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The BSD playfield is then ready and cleared again.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Dracs face and the blue are done neither will be absolutely perfect matches because there is so little paint needed I couldn’t justify mixing pints or quarts to attempt to match perfectly even then it would be guaranteed.
What a horrible match, you talentless hack!
(j/k of course, even your less than perfect work looks perfect from here)
Now back to the POTO.
I have to put a little extra effort into prepping the hardware the I will reuse for tumbling
B3D8D05F-CDDA-4C21-8A4E-CAB2BE37FE8A (resized).jpeg
With a Scotchbrite ,drill then polish
7F37D66C-D96D-4E70-A913-DB602886357D (resized).jpeg
I turned this 4F88FAA7-2F29-4022-98AC-B32D03CF598B (resized).jpeg
Into this 1A00D88B-EB19-4DAD-8D1B-B9D25B68D986 (resized).jpeg
The same process on all these then throw them in the bucket to tumble later.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:POTO cabinet is prepped and ready to decal.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
What a dramatic cosmetic improvement in what was a pretty sad cabinet!
This page is just full with all kinds of magic! So many things learned in just a few posts. Thanks for sharing your process, Chris!
Quoted from High_End_Pins:POTO lower is decaled[quoted image]
Wow, looks like a good quality reproduction decal! Find any flaws?
Quoted from PinMonk:Wow, looks like a good quality reproduction decal! Find any flaws?
No these were actually really good. I bought another set and scrapped those thinking I was going to have to paint this cabinet manually but these actually met my needs.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:...I was going to have to paint this cabinet manually but these actually met my needs.
Wait, so they make stencils for PotO? Seems crazy with all the fine detail in the scrollwork...
Are those the retrorefurb decals? They might be the best ones. I ordered 3 different sets for my phantom and the other 2 were terrible quality. Retros was the closest even though they were metallic gold like the original you can’t tell unless you are right on it up close and they are the sharpest highest resolution printing of all 3.
Quoted from PinMonk:Wait, so they make stencils for PotO? Seems crazy with all the fine detail in the scrollwork...
I wish.
I thought I was going to do it like I did the last one. That was painful.
http://christopherhutchins.com/gallery/album154?page=11
Quoted from jboner1058:Are those the retrorefurb decals? They might be the best ones. I ordered 3 different sets for my phantom and the other 2 were terrible quality. Retros was the closest even though they were metallic gold like the original you can’t tell unless you are right on it up close and they are the sharpest highest resolution printing of all 3.
I think so or pinball decals eu.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Definitely doable.
The main thing is you will need to stay perfectly straight.
Any arching or less than straight back and forth will ruin the graining process or at least make it continue on longer than needed.
I think I would wrap a nice straight 2x4 that is as long as the sheet of sandpaper in 180
Secure the rail to something sturdy and walk it back and forth staying as straight as I could only reversing direction once I ran off.
Once I got the old diagonal grain out I would only walk it one direction with 320 to finish it off.
Chris,
Thanks for the reply. I finally got around to doing this and... well i didn't have the patience for doing it by hand. I made a fence for my belt sander and even with that it took about 3hrs per rail. i started with 80 grit and finished off with 120.
for anyone doing this i would suggest:
A- start on the top two edges - leave the side for last.
B- always start and stop the sander in contact with the work ( any "burnouts" will take a while to sand out)
C- start in the middle of the part and get that pretty good before you go to the ends. otherwise you will end up taking too much off the end and it will be like a razor.
See photos of the sander and the "Burnout"
Sure would have been nice if they made these right in the first place, but that's another story.
Thanks,
Bob
Quoted from BobLangelius:Chris,
Thanks for the reply. I finally got around to doing this and... well i didn't have the patience for doing it by hand. I made a fence for my belt sander and even with that it took about 3hrs per rail. i started with 80 grit and finished off with 120.
for anyone doing this i would suggest:
A- start on the top two edges - leave the side for last.
B- always start and stop the sander in contact with the work ( any "burnouts" will take a while to sand out)
C- start in the middle of the part and get that pretty good before you go to the ends. otherwise you will end up taking too much off the end and it will be like a razor.
See photos of the sander and the "Burnout"
Sure would have been nice if they made these right in the first place, but that's another story.
Thanks,
Bob[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Good job. Hopefully someone will run those BK rails again and with the grain in the right direction.
Just learned about HEP from a recent BSD neverahighscore had for sale. Wish I knew about it beforehand, because I wouldn't have wasted 10 mins asking about it, while someone else chimed saying they'll buy it! Looked through this thread and find it amazingly interesting and detail oriented. Lot of respect for the work you're doing. If someone who's gotten one of these HEP BSDs decides to sell... please feel free to ping me first!
The edges of the POTO decals are sanded and ready to complete.
This is an easy one all black no art so a paint pen is fine.
First before I do the final edge finish I will polish the decals.
During the squeegeeing on a mostly black cabinet you can create some very fine surface scratches.
They wouldn’t be noticeable unless it is turned on it’s side in the right light but right now it is and so I would prefer it look great from all angles if possible.
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The polishing is just a glaze done by hand.
F44A51F0-D80D-4AE3-8A58-9DA2E7088FEF (resized).jpeg
Much better now. 33303E24-0305-425D-A999-7273BD0D480F (resized).jpeg
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