(Topic ID: 225528)

HEP This Week

By High_End_Pins

5 years ago


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  • 652 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 hours ago by punkin
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Topic poll

“EBD Trim legs will be black regardless ”

  • Stainless/Factory 35 votes
    31%
  • Blacked out 54 votes
    48%
  • Painted Gold matched to cabinet 24 votes
    21%

(113 votes)

This poll has been closed.

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There are 14,731 posts in this topic. You are on page 111 of 295.
#5501 4 years ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

Mods are always a hot button

I'm okay with tasteful mods here and there, but yikes, those are just TOO MUCH. At least they're reversible...

#5502 4 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

I'm okay with tasteful mods here and there, but yikes, those are just TOO MUCH. At least they're reversible...

Just unplug them when the game arrives

#5503 4 years ago

That Pinbot is a beaut!!! A little too much lighting on the TOM, also that's just my opinion.

#5504 4 years ago

Sunday theme is New England.

Seafood chowder made this one with Alaskan prawns and salmon(Thanks Marc)
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Topped it with bacon and a thick slice of Gruyere cheese.
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Paired it with a small glass of 2019 Sam Adams’ Uptopias(Thanks Vince)
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#5505 4 years ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

Sunday theme is New England.
Seafood chowder made this one with Alaskan prawns and salmon(Thanks Marc)
[quoted image]
Topped it with bacon and a thick slice of Gruyere cheese.
[quoted image]
Paired it with a small glass of 2019 Sam Adams’ Uptopias(Thanks Vince)
[quoted image]
[quoted image][quoted image]

Okay, now I'm officially hungry.

#5506 4 years ago

So, when does High End Eats open? Could be a new revenue stream

12
#5507 4 years ago

TOM is done.
Too messy to take pictures outside so we will do them inside as well as we can.

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#5508 4 years ago

TOM playfield.
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#5509 4 years ago

Inside.

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#5510 4 years ago

CFTBL arrived today.
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TOM is pre packed. 22C4077A-8D17-4728-98F2-26906D8E4F9D (resized).jpeg22C4077A-8D17-4728-98F2-26906D8E4F9D (resized).jpeg
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#5511 4 years ago

POTO makes its way in to be completely gutted.
I sent all the boards out a couple weeks ago.

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#5512 4 years ago

First thing I want at this point is all the coil brackets. I set a table up beside the game with everything I need to make plugs up as I remove assemblies.

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#5513 4 years ago

Removing the speaker makes a nice holder for a parts bucket. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
I will work from the bottom(in the raised position)up.
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First thing pulled is the motor
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The screws holding it to the playfield are not worth keeping.
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The motor assembly is broke down.
Some parts I will recondition because plating could ruin them like the motor cup and cam lobe others will be nickel plated like the bracket itself.

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#5514 4 years ago

That stuff gets bagged and labeled. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
Bracket goes into the plating bin. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
Now I move up to the next coil assembly. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
Will need to make a plug or two.
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It’s very thin wire needs to go into a .093 pin then I make a small loop to have a little more wire to house in the pin. This is more durable and less likely to pull out.

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#5515 4 years ago

It’s out. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

This is about as far as I need to teardown this bracket for nickel plating.
I could really dissect it but the main purpose of doing this is appearance and future corrosion protection so I would rather no risk damaging the threads for a slightly more thorough job knowing the location and purpose of the part.
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The rest of the assembly I will clean and polish manually and rebuild/wire later once I get the brackets back.

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#5516 4 years ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

This is about as far as I need to teardown this bracket for nickel plating.
I could really dissect it but the main purpose of doing this is appearance and future corrosion protection so I would rather no risk damaging the threads for a slightly more thorough job knowing the location and purpose of the part.

How does that work if you ever need to remove one of the screwed on parts in the future? Does the plating essentially fuse all those pieces together?

#5517 4 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

How does that work if you ever need to remove one of the screwed on parts in the future?

OK, so I wasn't the only one thinking this.

#5518 4 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

How does that work if you ever need to remove one of the screwed on parts in the future? Does the plating essentially fuse all those pieces together?

No this is a really thin plating. You could break them back down I often do to install new screws etc.
The main reason I do these types of brackets that way is so the platers will not ruin the threads and it keeps the piece count down/less likely to lose track of small parts.
The need to take it back apart later and even possibly mess up the plating is far less of an issue than having the brackets ruined in the process.

#5519 4 years ago

All coils are off less the pop bumpers which are plastic image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

The lamp boards are next.
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Then I will start dealing with minor brackets like the trough switch plate.
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The roll over actuators.

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#5520 4 years ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

t’s very thin wire needs to go into a .093 pin then I make a small loop to have a little more wire to house in the pin. This is more durable and less likely to pull out.

These are the nuggets that I LOVE in this thread!

#5521 4 years ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

TOM is done.
Too messy to take pictures outside so we will do them inside as well as we can.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Luxurious

#5522 4 years ago

POTO Playfield is stripped down far enough to get it out of the cabinet

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#5523 4 years ago

Love seeing someone have you restore
A favorite game it really shows the love
For Pinball

#5524 4 years ago
Quoted from xeneize:

These are the nuggets that I LOVE in this thread!

Sorry to interrupt, but how do you solve for the opposite problem where the wire is too thick for the pin? I am trying to re-pin the power board on a Firepower machine and there are quite a few doubled wires which need crimped into the new style molex pin.

#5525 4 years ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

On a theme like TOM or BOP both the translite and Pinduino seem to be fine.
I did a BOP a year or so ago almost just like this
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Yes! Thats my beautiful lady right there. I am the proud owner of this machine and it might just be the finest BoP in the land. As always, Chris did a phenomenal job on my BoP. This was the first pin I ever bought so it means a lot to me. The pinduino strip is not for every game in my opinion but the way it interacts with this game and the theme really does set it off. Thanks for posting these pics Chris. Now on to my Funhouse! Can't wait!!!

#5526 4 years ago

Is it possible to get one of those High End Pins, Work tables

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#5527 4 years ago
Quoted from heni1977:

Is it possible to get one of those High End Pins, Work tables [quoted image]

No way too much R&D in these tables to ever offer them to the public

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#5528 4 years ago

The POTO cabinet is fully torn down.
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I initially really wanted to salvage the original cabinet art through painting and clearing similar to what was done on the Radical.
The missing art is a little complex but nothing I couldn’t deal with.
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The problem I discovered once I really got into the game was it has seen a good bit of moisture and as a result not only did it create the rust issues. It also destabilized the paint on the cabinet.
This creates a very grainy and fragile surface that would require several sessions of just sanding and clearing to even stabilize.
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A tape test helps identify the potential. If you can’t tape it you can’t paint it.
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If it were sanded and cleared all the way through to a smooth stable surface only then could the actual painting start but the time,effort and price point needed to justify it just wouldn’t make sense if we have a good decal option.

#5529 4 years ago

It's funny, I've seen POTO many times but never really paid attention to the cabinet art before. I know Paul Faris did the playfield and backglass art for this game but I wonder if he had anything to do with this cabinet art as it really has a Centaur kind of color scheme and vibe to it. BTW, great work as always Chris and I really enjoy watching this thread. Thanks for taking the time to document your amazing processes and insightful tips.

#5530 4 years ago
Quoted from GSones:

It's funny, I've seen POTO many times but never really paid attention to the cabinet art before. I know Paul Faris did the playfield and backglass art for this game but I wonder if he had anything to do with this cabinet art as it really has a Centaur kind of color scheme and vibe to it. BTW, great work as always Chris and I really enjoy watching this thread. Thanks for taking the time to document your amazing processes and insightful tips.

Unearthed this one should be coming up soon.

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#5531 4 years ago

Prep shop is a mess I need to make room for the POTO cabinet

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#5532 4 years ago

First step is to sand and polish the next Spirit playfield set.

Did that

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#5533 4 years ago

After some organizing I am in a much better spot to start dealing with these three cabinets.

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#5534 4 years ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

Unearthed this one should be coming up soon.[quoted image]

Ha ha, looks good. I just have to wonder though, who in their right mind would want to get a HEP restore on a Skateball? Must be a pretty special game for him. Looks almost like this one...

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#5535 4 years ago

and right now that cat is wondering "where the heck is my cool, smooth, high top bed?!?"

#5536 4 years ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

After some organizing I am in a much better spot to start dealing with these three cabinets.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I get sad when your "before" cabinet is better than my current cabinet. LOL

Greta work as always!

Chris

#5537 4 years ago

Spirit 3 cabinet is prepped and ready to prime.

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#5538 4 years ago

IJ cabinet is prepped and ready to prime

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#5539 4 years ago

With those out of the way and in the booth section I can start working on the POTO.

The first thing I want to do besides simply strip the art off is address the grain.
It is very deep.

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#5540 4 years ago

As I strip it the grain acts as a guide coat in a way.
The discoloration of the grain helps highlight just how deep the moisture once settled in the wood.
These darker lines indicate not only grain but past moisture absorption.
Other issues are more build quality related
Knots Nails and seams.
A dent here and there.

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#5541 4 years ago

Given that POTO condition vs others.. why not a fresh cabinet for that one? No DE blank cabinets? Or customer choice?

#5542 4 years ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

Given that POTO condition vs others.. why not a fresh cabinet for that one? No DE blank cabinets? Or customer choice?

I probably would have done a new cabinet but the DE cabinets can be harder to get right because of the neck and a couple other details so I would rather rework this one since it is my only POTO.
If I had more than one to do it would be worth it though.

#5543 4 years ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

It’s very thin wire needs to go into a .093 pin then I make a small loop to have a little more wire to house in the pin. This is more durable and less likely to pull out.

Hi, I love your work - totally insperational to me. And you seem to get so much done in a day! I notice that you have not crimped to the insulation on the yellow wire so nor provideing strain relief. Is this a once in a lifetime error? Not trying to pick holes as I would not have the courage to put examples of my work on the forum!

#5544 4 years ago
Quoted from Bakerman:

Hi, I love your work - totally insperational to me. And you seem to get so much done in a day! I notice that you have not crimped to the insulation on the yellow wire so nor provideing strain relief. Is this a once in a lifetime error? Not trying to pick holes as I would not have the courage to put examples of my work on the forum!

It’s probably just a missed crimp.
They are not easy to do in the upright position but I always go over everything during the actual rebuild in the more favorable flat position.
If you crimp 1000 pins you are definitely not going to get every single one perfect each and every time some have to be redone.

#5545 4 years ago

The POTO lower is stripped.
The first thing I want to start working on is the bottom and lip around that.
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There is a small section missing on the front.
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I chipped that away and then rebuilt the footprint of it with paint paddles. They get glued and clamped.
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The rest will be rebuilt with fiberglass since they are really just cosmetic flaws.
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The factory seams are wiped with fiberglass also
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#5546 4 years ago

The paint paddles are shaved down along with the first pass of the fiberglass on the POTO lower.

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-8
#5547 4 years ago

Gotta love capitalism.

#5548 4 years ago

The POTO head is stripped.
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The bottom lip of the cabinet was wiped with a 50/50 mix of fiberglass and filler.
This smooths the fiberglass out a little more and also gives future regular filler a common bond with the previous fiberglass work.

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#5549 4 years ago

The bottom lip is sanded and it has a much better look and it is nice and solid.

Later on in the process I will clean up the bevel and most likely prime and refinish the entire lip just to mask any filler that was needed to fill the voids.
Still have to do the cosmetic repairs and deal with the stained floor inside before I get to that.

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#5550 4 years ago

Will see what I can do with this image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

It has some potential. Might require a creative paint pattern on the transformer stand off.

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
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