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(Topic ID: 225528)

HEP This Week 10-19-2020


By High_End_Pins

2 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 8,043 posts
  • 421 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 hours ago by High_End_Pins
  • Topic is favorited by 432 Pinsiders

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Topic poll

“EBD Trim legs will be black regardless ”

  • Stainless/Factory 35 votes
    31%
  • Blacked out 54 votes
    48%
  • Painted Gold matched to cabinet 24 votes
    21%

(113 votes)

This poll has been closed.

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Topic index (key posts)

103 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 8043 posts in this topic. You are on page 110 of 161.
#5451 11 months ago
Quoted from jsa:

I have a special request. I've owned and partially restored/maintained my TOM for many years. I've taken apart the armature/trap door mechanical assembly a thousand times. I've never found an adequate solution to eliminating the eventual pop-out-straight-down-the-middle issue. New armatures, weaker coils, it's been one continuous, losing battle!
I'd love to see what you do in your restoration to this assembly, and what tricks you might have to avoiding this problem (shared with many TOM owners).

This issue is common on TOM along with a couple others.
The core of it is within the design of the game and the entire Trap door mech
It can’t be fully solved on each and every kick out because there is no way to reaim the entire assembly
The reason is that it is all assembled within one steel plate.
607988E9-5FDA-4537-A79A-8C03D1DF1645 (resized).jpeg
That steel plate mounts to the playfield with Several screws. Of those three different non adjustable points tied to post and two t nuts. image (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpg

The only real chance I can see of redirecting the kickout would be slotting or enlarging the holes of that base in those areas.
image (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpg

Doing that may give some ability to tweak the direction of the kickout.
Another thought would be to install washers under those points to give a slight pitch and *maybe* slightly alter the way it ejects.
This are my observations of the assembly and potential problems with adjusting it.
There are some mechs,shots and features of many games that are honestly just found to be flawed by design and this may be one of them.
IJ mode start bounce outs,TZ divertor dumps, and many more come to mind. Some can be solved others improved but I will pay close attention to this one and see if I can possibly make any reliable improvements.

#5452 11 months ago

Chris, I thought you might appreciate this food break. Low country boil. There is nothing like deer camp in Arkansas. Love it.

20191108_181546 (resized).jpg20191108_181556 (resized).jpg
#5453 11 months ago
Quoted from jsa:

I have a special request. I've owned and partially restored/maintained my TOM for many years. I've taken apart the armature/trap door mechanical assembly a thousand times. I've never found an adequate solution to eliminating the eventual pop-out-straight-down-the-middle issue. New armatures, weaker coils, it's been one continuous, losing battle!
I'd love to see what you do in your restoration to this assembly, and what tricks you might have to avoiding this problem (shared with many TOM owners).

I also elongated the holes in the mounting bracket.

Then rotated the assembly to make it consistant.

#5454 11 months ago
Quoted from epeabs:

Chris, I thought you might appreciate this food break. Low country boil. There is nothing like deer camp in Arkansas. Love it.[quoted image][quoted image]

Looks good. I decided to join you long distance.

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#5455 11 months ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

Looks good. I decided to join you long distance.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Yours looks equally as good. Enjoy.

#5456 11 months ago

TOM cabinet is built up.
This was a spare used lower cabinet I had And a new head.
TOM uses a very specific lower cabinet and with a deadline on this project it made the most sense to use it.

Pinsound board was requested as well

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#5457 11 months ago

The trapdoor mech was rebuilt.
One thing I had forgotten about on my last TOM restore was to swap the trap door up coil to a FL11753
If you do that you need to clip the diodes off.
It seems like the original coil(20099 I think)
doesn’t work as well with the replacement stainless bracket.

When rebuilding one of these best to replace all the switches as well.

82771D23-7085-4A03-A1A2-E196F462CA1A (resized).jpeg9845B981-9E7E-403B-B65B-632D3895A793 (resized).jpeg854EDB44-35ED-4BE6-AE44-376CF1B3CE41 (resized).jpegADBF907B-C809-48AD-A0B9-10B076BC5BF8 (resized).jpegD962E55E-9D32-4D7E-9C8A-24A2B1662E6D (resized).jpeg
#5458 11 months ago

Then there was the trunk assembly
Both the upper and lower were completely rebuilt. The upper has a new hand made harness that I will finish once it is in place since it has to pass through the playfield.

5E43313C-B8DA-4317-A5BC-B27CB113B3BD (resized).jpeg52449331-D667-44EF-99A7-50E3031199C3 (resized).jpeg08112273-B342-4049-BBC3-DAD5099BAA1C (resized).jpegA7912783-087B-4E33-81F4-F78D0975EEBC (resized).jpeg7AEDF98F-6A3D-446C-A228-DBC2481D9F4F (resized).jpegB686B1A6-A7DF-4FD8-83A9-D6F247C19656 (resized).jpeg
#5459 11 months ago

After that was the backboard assembly.
These are a bit more work than it seems
8ABE1D5A-BBBA-45F5-AFDA-59CD2C5040F2 (resized).jpeg
The biggest issue on this game so far has been rust on the minor parts like sockets and some easily replaced hardware.

ADBBF1CC-25E9-4327-A149-DB955DBBFC33 (resized).jpeg2658A34D-FACA-4F03-BA38-3C3691600CED (resized).jpegEF7D0B0C-7A88-44E2-AB9B-80FF9172A127 (resized).jpeg
#5460 11 months ago

The panel was stripped
Lower profile sockets and wiring were used and short protections used. Much like TOTAN these sockets tend to get bent or broken as the wire drag across them.

7479C738-884B-474E-ABB6-221B66F0C016 (resized).jpegE3F2DB90-7EAD-4051-AC4C-EE308864476B (resized).jpeg5EA242C4-750D-4D00-B5A3-8CB4BE1A057E (resized).jpeg1E422A3A-38A9-4529-8277-0AC2D02B6930 (resized).jpeg
#5461 11 months ago

The rusted brockets were lightly blacken through metal etching.
This both cures the rust issue and also makes a bracket that blends in much better.
6F976EEB-7364-4EDB-9023-37334589361C (resized).jpeg
After that a new decal is installed on the backboard and it can be rebuilt.

86F9BFC4-8258-40D9-9136-4D564A0C599A (resized).jpeg

This game will get a lighted mirror so a hole is made to more neatly pass the wiring through.
Even if reverting back to the original mirror it would be hidden.

0CF0347A-8D43-4D78-8193-BE6621C8A2B1 (resized).jpeg08956F80-BEDC-4478-88DA-001862DCAE30 (resized).jpeg1C75233C-A595-428E-B9B7-C9F3B563B448 (resized).jpeg
#5462 11 months ago

Backboard is rebuilt tiger is as well with the requested saw mod.
That bracket was also blackened for a cleaner look and the entry ramp is assembled.

AD28DEA0-F044-4FA6-97F3-DF1094405F96 (resized).jpegF7F3A087-5543-41F3-A95B-0CF719A56D5E (resized).jpeg51264AF3-63DB-486E-9F5D-E0FB90770CA1 (resized).jpeg366835BB-68E5-4A76-99C2-2AD676F58693 (resized).jpeg4B8F381C-6EE2-49F9-AA6D-BFCE967C8E97 (resized).jpeg
#5463 11 months ago

Amazing as always

#5464 11 months ago

Has the POTO resto been canceled? A friend and I were really looking forward to seeing that one done

#5465 11 months ago
Quoted from sohchx:

Has the POTO resto been canceled? A friend and I were really looking forward to seeing that one done

No it is just a real slow starter because it won’t move through the process as quickly as others.
Games like the POTO and Spirits need much more attention and down time because they have serious rust and corrosion issues that require much more plating
The Williams and Bally’s that move through here quicker often have the same needs but I have a large stock of these parts pre plated.
I could and would do that with the Data East and Gottliebs but there just isn’t enough volume of it here to justify it.

#5466 11 months ago

Working through the TOM ramps.

B323AAE7-9DDF-483D-A875-8668F9C1795D (resized).jpeg12EAA71E-162C-4E51-B513-AAD4C73D1F0B (resized).jpeg8CE5B987-A905-4F37-88BA-E9ED9E3FCB30 (resized).jpeg
#5467 11 months ago

New ramps will get stainless flaps on this build.
Another thing is that I will change the levitating ball magnet connectors from a .093 three pin to a .062 two pin for a smaller footprint.

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#5468 11 months ago

Ramps are built all hardware polished with new switches.

26174641-9064-4CA5-813A-987ED77289A9 (resized).jpegC6B4BD77-98CA-4D8C-93AD-D9CA3A245ACC (resized).jpegFD22AD22-B932-40F3-937F-C80484D0CB60 (resized).jpegC037EDA4-307F-4105-BB85-6C201FCF0E8C (resized).jpegB32BCD58-1F79-406B-8241-A50E8E2BF2C4 (resized).jpeg
#5469 11 months ago

Lamp boards for TOM.
These were pretty dirty.

All headers were reflowed as well the side mount sockets.

7B3274B8-54EC-44EC-9D03-3437A4C5FDF3 (resized).jpegEAF506A2-583D-4C79-83EA-0AA97BFC05C5 (resized).jpeg6752C4D8-4B3E-4DA7-BD4A-0960D7793FE7 (resized).jpeg7D6A3D7A-5294-4E94-BA87-3645F8CA57C4 (resized).jpeg2B143733-59CD-44E5-9D44-58B5757DAFB4 (resized).jpeg
#5470 11 months ago

Now working through the coil assemblies.
Starting with the trough.

C0E7B31D-A93B-47E5-9A36-047D086C0EEE (resized).jpegA3E730B7-9372-475D-AED3-C69EA80D6A5E (resized).jpeg19570766-80EE-43E0-984C-2D52C04F8B49 (resized).jpeg
#5471 11 months ago

TOM playfield is sanded then polished.

790520D1-4186-447D-8DA3-FC59933A3D7A (resized).jpegE843340D-9469-4B2D-912A-845513DFE57F (resized).jpeg5D456AAF-E303-42CB-A866-8CD142EEA49E (resized).jpeg82F33B32-553E-4BC7-9540-B501DF0D5324 (resized).jpeg0049F449-8579-41BF-958B-852686309849 (resized).jpeg0BEAF003-236E-4466-851E-04AEBB8356BC (resized).jpeg
#5472 11 months ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

TOM playfield is sanded then polished.

You do know now that we've seen you paint the top of the T-nut by the trunk yellow that all your other ToM customers are going to expect and want that done on their restores.

#5473 11 months ago
Quoted from littlecammi:

You do know now that we've seen you paint the top of the T-nut by the trunk yellow that all your other ToM customers are going to expect and want that done on their restores.

There might be some purist that insist I install slightly rusted t nuts there. I have had all kinds come through here.

#5474 11 months ago

SC is packed and scheduled to pick up today.
It has its own traveling 4x4 footprint.

5D53B15E-BD87-4C9E-97B2-567AEB23FC52 (resized).jpeg454BD257-F79C-4286-9EA7-ADFE3564BB2B (resized).jpeg4914E891-85D0-42DB-BE29-4CCF203CE5A8 (resized).jpeg4F4CB38E-8802-41F1-9BED-C3BA25437D76 (resized).jpeg
#5475 11 months ago

TOM coils are all done.
Everything on plugs everything has short and lead protection

67F38206-F45E-4A4E-9E94-35895B2B3367 (resized).jpeg81FA10AB-02A7-4726-AD06-30AACD6FFCD7 (resized).jpegBB2E787B-E62B-4EB1-B389-34E734AB8E92 (resized).jpegBF095F50-3733-4D47-93DD-AC91B5C41E2C (resized).jpegF9E5DC14-16F1-4F4A-B812-BEC566C0D27F (resized).jpeg
#5476 11 months ago

TOM playfield parts tumbled for several days ball guides regrained.

66987049-3218-4327-8A27-0DB549389D71 (resized).jpegBEA2D230-F971-4FD2-8C58-D85389B921F0 (resized).jpeg
10
#5477 11 months ago

Now the final assembly of the TOM playfield.
New Reese rails
This latest Mirco run of the TOM is much improved over the last run.
The colors look great and I am having no issues with chipping even in more problem prone areas like wire guide installations

36B9941A-8009-4548-9389-AAD60D0F73A4 (resized).jpeg56A7DA2F-0F14-41DD-84E5-3BEFC46F8D70 (resized).jpegC36DBD70-2F55-46C4-B0E9-832780F4959F (resized).jpeg157158BD-FE19-4B79-8DDE-42E0B518DBB2 (resized).jpeg
#5478 11 months ago

Tom cabinet wired.

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#5479 11 months ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

TOM coils are all done.
Everything on plugs everything has short and lead protection[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Chris,

Is it necessary you run dual (violet / brown) wires to the solenoids? Manufacturer does it due to daisy chain so I would think dual wires from the molex to the solenoid lug is redundant and not necessarily necessary? You are the master here so I am sure you have a good reason. Just curious.

#5480 11 months ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

This issue is common on TOM along with a couple others.
The core of it is within the design of the game and the entire Trap door mech
It can’t be fully solved on each and every kick out because there is no way to reaim the entire assembly
The reason is that it is all assembled within one steel plate.
[quoted image]
That steel plate mounts to the playfield with Several screws. Of those three different non adjustable points tied to post and two t nuts. [quoted image]
[quoted image]
The only real chance I can see of redirecting the kickout would be slotting or enlarging the holes of that base in those areas.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Doing that may give some ability to tweak the direction of the kickout.
Another thought would be to install washers under those points to give a slight pitch and *maybe* slightly alter the way it ejects.
This are my observations of the assembly and potential problems with adjusting it.
There are some mechs,shots and features of many games that are honestly just found to be flawed by design and this may be one of them.
IJ mode start bounce outs,TZ divertor dumps, and many more come to mind. Some can be solved others improved but I will pay close attention to this one and see if I can possibly make any reliable improvements.

Fantastic advice. I'll look into doing precisely this. Thank you!

#5481 11 months ago
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

Chris,
Is it necessary you run dual (violet / brown) wires to the solenoids? Manufacturer does it due to daisy chain so I would think dual wires from the molex to the solenoid lug is redundant and not necessarily necessary? You are the master here so I am sure you have a good reason. Just curious.

That’s done in the interest of color coding accurately.
On a game like TOM both wires originally going to the coils are 18 gauge.
Some of these colors I only stock in 20 gauge so in those cases I use two 20 gauge wires to maintain both gauge and now correct color.
It fits and holds much better within the .093 pins as well as compared to a single 20 gauge wire.

#5482 11 months ago

TOM playfield is just about ready to flip and start wiring.

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#5483 11 months ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

That’s done in the interest of color coding accurately.
On a game like TOM both wires originally going to the coils are 18 gauge.
Some of these colors I only stock in 20 gauge so in those cases I use two 20 gauge wires to maintain both gauge and now correct color.
It fits and holds much better within the .093 pins as well as compared to a single 20 gauge wire.

Ok, I figured you had a reason. I am starting my High Speed PF swap and was curious why the 2 wires as I intend to drop to 1 single wire from the Molex connector to the feature and let the daisy chain propagate from the other side of the molex connector to the next feature. I have been ordering 18AWG color correct wire for the install of Molex connectors.

I do like your strain and short protection on solenoids and will adopt that in my rewiring.

#5484 11 months ago

Thanks for posting pics of the rails. Beer on me when you are up this way. Cheers.

#5485 11 months ago
Quoted from TaylorVA:

Thanks for posting pics of the rails. Beer on me when you are up this way. Cheers.

You might want to reconsider that offer

#5486 11 months ago

TOM playfield wiring is well underway
All GI sections are on color correct wired banks with keyed connectors and short protection where needed.
All switches are on color correct plugs.

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#5487 11 months ago

Interesting to see that just about all of your customers are going with the inner cab side art. Has this become the new standard in a high end restoration? I always thought they looked a little janky. But maybe all the new Sterns using them has changed opinions on these.

#5488 11 months ago
Quoted from Elicash:

Interesting to see that just about all of your customers are going with the inner cab side art. Has this become the new standard in a high end restoration? I always thought they looked a little janky. But maybe all the new Sterns using them has changed opinions on these.

I used to think the same way.
But done correctly, with some thought about the general feel of the theme of the game, they can add a lot of detail.
Tilt graphics are probably the best you can get. I really like them.

#5489 11 months ago
Quoted from Elicash:

Interesting to see that just about all of your customers are going with the inner cab side art. Has this become the new standard in a high end restoration? I always thought they looked a little janky. But maybe all the new Sterns using them has changed opinions on these.

It is probably due to the numerous choices these days.I prefer they do the inner art thing if they want something rather than the mirror blade thing.
The latest versions of inner art from places like Tilt and Retro refurb are on a nicer material and usually complimentary to the cabinet or playfield art.
I still refinish the cabinets with the idea they will be blank just in case it needs to be removed.

#5490 11 months ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

It is probably due to the numerous choices these days.I prefer they do the inner art thing if they want something rather than the mirror blade thing.
The latest versions of inner art from places like Tilt and Retro refurb are on a nicer material and usually complimentary to the cabinet or playfield art.
I still refinish the cabinets with the idea they will be blank just in case it needs to be removed.

Why do you prefer art vs mirror blades? Is it the look or a technical issue?

#5491 11 months ago
Quoted from marioparty34:

Why do you prefer art vs mirror blades? Is it the look or a technical issue?

It is usually the fit and ease they can be ruined.
The decals are thinner and less prone to clearance issues.
If the decals get scuffed they can often be touched up
The blades can’t.

#5492 11 months ago

TOM playfield is wired and ready to place in the cabinet.
This took just a couple hours after I consulted the Old Ruffian.
The extra time spent the last few days always pays off in the end.

3CF23143-E4E8-4163-87C4-76A25015227F (resized).jpeg111596ED-B52C-4F56-A260-9055624206EA (resized).jpeg9BC1B2FE-948F-4A9F-9D68-9A3C95A24177 (resized).jpegimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#5493 11 months ago

TOM playfield is in the cabinet.

image (resized).jpg
#5494 11 months ago

TOM lives again. 3D translite was also placed so I could dial in the lighting scheme.

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#5495 11 months ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

It is usually the fit and ease they can be ruined.
The decals are thinner and less prone to clearance issues.
If the decals get scuffed they can often be touched up
The blades can’t.

Agreed!! I had mirror blades on my old TSPP and every time that I would lift the playfield it would leave scuffs in the blades that I would have to high speed buff out. The fit was way to tight.

#5496 11 months ago

Just about done with TOM.
This one had a few more extras to deal with.

image.jpg
#5497 11 months ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

Just about done with TOM.
This one had a few more extras to deal with.[quoted image]

Ugh. I know it's not your idea, but those LED strips are so gross. Ruins the substantial artistry of the playfield design.

I mean, if they HAD to have the ramps outlined in light, something like the optic fiber cable zip tied to the lip on the ramps to outline them HAS to look better...

amazon.com link »

#5498 11 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

Ugh. I know it's not your idea, but those LED strips are so gross. Ruins the substantial artistry of the playfield design.

Mods are always a hot button

#5499 11 months ago

Thoughts on the 3D translite? Are the LED strips arduino controlled?

#5500 11 months ago
Quoted from Toucanf16:

Thoughts on the 3D translite? Are the LED strips arduino controlled?

On a theme like TOM or BOP both the translite and Pinduino seem to be fine.
I did a BOP a year or so ago almost just like this
A3FD5824-E610-4DF2-976E-C99D62C32919 (resized).jpeg8A8746D2-24BA-4773-AAD7-73B0246A158E (resized).jpeg59D6FA29-CF5B-409F-98D1-FAEC3B351E82 (resized).jpegE19D4A5C-C66C-49BE-B7B4-3D820F66EA67 (resized).jpeg4961A760-34A2-424A-A966-839A42683F36 (resized).jpegD5C39334-C580-4732-87A0-25A5716AD9EE (resized).jpeg6361ACF7-B5F7-44C4-89BE-2FE37F75086C (resized).jpegB11A8CB0-D4D9-4C3B-A38A-A6C9CD358697 (resized).jpeg

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Lighted Pinball Mods
$ 10.00
Playfield - Protection
UpKick Pinball
From: $ 10.00
Electronics
Third Coast Pinball
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