Matthews, NC
Quoted from treborlicec:
That definitely looks like it. Thanks.
Pretty close
I use these. They are a bit more industrial and durable.
46ED6F50-B548-44C1-8B71-95EDFBC00025 (resized).png(Topic ID: 225528)
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46ED6F50-B548-44C1-8B71-95EDFBC00025 (resized).pngChris:
Here's a question - and I'm sorry if it seems naive...but it is something I have wondered...
The TOTAN cabinet is drop dead gorgeous - simply amazing work - those corners and wrapping art blow me away.
When it was leaving the shop, you had it folded and upright on the hand truck. Do you have a secret sauce for protecting the backside of the cabinet from the hand truck lip? How do you handle wrapping/safeguarding the backside of the cabinet for shipping before you remove the legs to stand it vertically?
Thanks!
Chris,
I need to re-grain a new set of BK Side rails ( the grain is diagonal now). Do you think this is doable?
I'm thinking belt sander on the bench... What would you do? Sending them back is not an option.
If belt sander makes sense what grits do you suggest?
Thanks,
Bob
Quoted from xeneize:
Chris:
Here's a question - and I'm sorry if it seems naive...but it is something I have wondered...
The TOTAN cabinet is drop dead gorgeous - simply amazing work - those corners and wrapping art blow me away.
When it was leaving the shop, you had it folded and upright on the hand truck. Do you have a secret sauce for protecting the backside of the cabinet from the hand truck lip? How do you handle wrapping/safeguarding the backside of the cabinet for shipping before you remove the legs to stand it vertically?
Thanks!
I have a corner board that I use when moving the cabinets around.
I put a blanket on the floor of the pallet then shrink wrap it all together.
The reason I don’t do that until after it is back at the warehouse is because it makes it very difficult to slide in and out of the truck if it is too heavily blanketed and wrapped.
Quoted from BobLangelius:
Chris,
I need to re-grain a new set of BK Side rails ( the grain is diagonal now). Do you think this is doable?
I'm thinking belt sander on the bench... What would you do? Sending them back is not an option.
If belt sander makes sense what grits do you suggest?
Thanks,
Bob
Definitely doable.
The main thing is you will need to stay perfectly straight.
Any arching or less than straight back and forth will ruin the graining process or at least make it continue on longer than needed.
I think I would wrap a nice straight 2x4 that is as long as the sheet of sandpaper in 180
Secure the rail to something sturdy and walk it back and forth staying as straight as I could only reversing direction once I ran off.
Once I got the old diagonal grain out I would only walk it one direction with 320 to finish it off.
Set the SC base game up.
It came with some extra parts. 
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The first thing I spotted was the translite is cracked and touched up. 
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Fine with me I just so happened to have a NOS translite. Apparently I have had it quite a while.
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Removing by the old is a pain
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No salvaging it at all 
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New is installed.
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Film removed also a pain. No more crack 
59D6052E-A317-494F-864C-25AF35FD329B (resized).jpeg
97F546E6-E871-40D6-95E8-94A81D4556E2 (resized).jpegBrought my lastest TOM in 
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I decided to put the spare TOM lower I had to use and a new head. 
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D1D9D32A-3B72-4A50-B3F6-B1AAE962D8CF (resized).jpeg
New skids and playfield resting blocks both oak.
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TOM cabinet and head are ready to prime
Then primed and guidecoated.
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A988D11B-BF8C-431C-AA5D-DDA9B513B9D9 (resized).jpeg
E99D8585-4C6D-44B7-A55D-3A7BF2E1B251 (resized).jpegThen I worked through the Radical coils
The system 11 games use yellow wrappers for all coils regardless of value so I am salvaging those.
It isn’t a big deal one way or another just the direction I am going on this project.
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Today we had parts inventory.
The last few jobs particularly the HGs,BSD and TOTAN drained my parts bins.
Mostly sockets,switches,flipper parts and coils.
As soon as you collect payment it seems the majority of the money goes back out tooling up for the next jobs.
There is usually enough left over for bills ,salmon and beer though
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175412B1-BB41-48B9-A7A4-DF32B2F36433 (resized).jpegThen I started the SC
First things first I went ahead and installed the colordmd and code because SC has such a weird set up. 
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After that I gutted it focusing on the cabinet mostly.
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243DD331-5FDB-471B-A94F-65774DBC5B9E (resized).jpegI got the SC cabinet fully emptied
Then into the paint shop.
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C4AD223B-6149-433B-B025-CD189612817C (resized).jpegI also got it stripped and made all repairs.
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9C028FB9-8AC7-47AD-A0E8-5153E8D43D05 (resized).jpegThe SC cabinet was then masked primed And guidecoated.
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Woolgoolga
Quoted from punkin:
You really got all that done in one work day? Incredible.
Yes I did. Just another day at the office around here.
Can someone explain "guide coated" to me? Pretend I'm an idiot when it comes to painting with anything other than a roller and some latex paint.
Quoted from Spyderturbo007:
Can someone explain "guide coated" to me? Pretend I'm an idiot when it comes to painting with anything other than a roller and some latex paint.
I will do that after lunch when I sand the cabinet.
Can someone explain "guide coated"
Chris describes guide coating a couple times actually,
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hep-this-week-9-17-18/page/5#post-4607193
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hep-this-week-9-17-18/page/14#post-4641164
This thread is like a Vid thread, gets better with age!
adding to 
Atari_Daze post
his second link actually starts here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hep-this-week-9-17-18/page/14#post-4641158
where chris explains (in great detail) why you do this
I think the links provided from previous explanations do a pretty good job of describing and outlining what guidecoating is and why it is essential to a nice straight grain free cabinet and paint job
If you are doing rattle can style hobbyist paint jobs it isn’t as important a lot of what I show here is about professional level work be that pinball or painting. It doesn’t mean you have to do it or that there is anything wrong with your efforts if you didn’t.
I have customers to please and way too much knowledge on some processes to do it any other way.
That said here is a final overview of the process it is a question I am going to retire in this thread.
TOM cabinet is ready to prep for paint.
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The primer itself was yellow(buff actually) and I sprayed some base coat I had laying around over it in a misted pattern. The color choice needs to be in good contrast to the primer. The material used for the guidecoat needs to sand as easy or easier than the actual primer to be effective.
The idea is that the constrast material and color(guidecoat) will settle in to the deepest recesses of the surface just as much as it does the higher parts.
This settlement and contrast of colors will guide us during the sanding process and expose any level issues in the surface in a very clear and visual way as we move the sander.
It will tell us what needs more sanding and what does not by elimination of that contrasting color Within the primer coat.
Let’s sand.
First light pass exposes a variety of issues that could impact a nice straight cabinet or slick finish.
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These issues are orange peel,grain in the wood and even a slight run in the primer. None of these would look good under paint,clear or even decals although decals are more forgiving.
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I know that when I see no hint of these issues the surface is true and worthy of painting. The elimination of the guidecoat is what let’s me know this. There is a lot more technique involved in sanding and properly truing the surface than just sanding away the guidecoat but that is hard to put into words or even teach. It is a skill you can develop and at what level is an equally open book.
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Other things guidecoat can help highlight are settlement of filler materials.
The SC head is a good example.
As I sand
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The materials or bridging of the wood and filler work done yesterday can create a small surface
settlement. This is what primer is for and why it is important it is also what guidecoat exposes that you could miss without it and why it too is important. That one corner will really benefit from the process and so with the paint job and decals to follow. You can’t revisit it later after they are in place but if you know what you are looking for you will definitely see it.
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Sanded nice and true. 
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Ok that’s it for guidecoat.
Bookmark it or whatever they do here. This was the final and definitive overview of that.
The bolts for both cabinets were blasted and prepped to be painted at the same time with the same paint this gives a very consistent finish and look to everything.
The SC backboard made it into the mix as well.
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The TOM cabinets and bolts are now cleared.
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E6BDACF3-C902-48E7-9384-12EA534842AD (resized).jpegSC cabinet and bolts as well as backboard cleared.
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Ready to start building the the Radical playfield up.
I will be glad to get this one done.
It has been a difficult one with the adding of missing /deleted features and that cabinet repaint. The color matching,the trips to the paint store and probably other things I have forgotten.
Anyway time to close it out and move on.
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Quoted from High_End_Pins:
Bookmark it or whatever they do here. This was the final and definitive overview of that.
I already had the other guidecoating discussion you did keyposted, but this is an even better explanation. I've been going back through and keyposting each finished machine post so they're easy to find, too.
Quoted from timab2000:
Why does the black look like it has orange peel in the finish. How do you address that?
There isn’t anything to address.
What you see there is a just sprayed finish. As it dries it levels out.
If you try to spray it slick as glass out of the gun you will have runs everywhere as it starts to flow.
Same finish now a couple hours later. After it dries overnight it will continue to flatten out.
This is the difference in using higher quality materials verses rattle cans.
image (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpgQuoted from vireland:
I already had the other guidecoating discussion you did keyposted, but this is an even better explanation. I've been going back through and keyposting each finished machine post so they're easy to find, too.
Thanks. This is definitely helpful to me.
TOTAN finished
I like this take on the color scheme. The “brassed out everything” is cool and all but I really dig what you did here.
Adding the deleted features back in continues on.
The prototype I did years ago had a ball deflector and a wireguide.
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Both of these are missing on this game and will be needed to work properly.Best I can do is guesstimate on the wireform location using sizes of other parts in the area as a indicator.
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Using a spare deflector I have laying around completes this area and should work nicely
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SC will be getting a replacement playfield.
The main reason is that it has some planking and that has allowed dirt into some pretty obvious and hard to properly restore areas. 
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The replacement playfield is evaluated. No issues of note just want to level it up a little bit from settlement and put my own clear on it.
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Playfield is sanded. 
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The SC apron looks good overall after cleaning some adhesive residue off it. 
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The one issue is wear in the ball trough area 
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The wear is sanded out. Then it is metal etched which both protects the metal and perfectly matches the original black.
4A56ACBD-D05D-4B9D-83ED-F2A8E2B398EB (resized).jpeg
1DB45EE2-67E6-4731-B25A-49F498D61140 (resized).jpegSC coin door is nice and original which is important on SC because of the larger token slot and special mech.
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The lone issue with it is a poor paint job.
Looks like a flat black rattle can deal. Not heavy at all so it can be reworked as assembled.
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This is now prepped and properly blacked out.
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After that it gets the correct style clear speckling
DE98F5E0-DF95-4D78-BECB-2F27ADDB86E6 (resized).jpegSwitching gears real quick the POTO
Speaker panel is prepped and then blacked out on both sides then cleared. This is a plastic painting process. I have covered it before.
I think fairly thoroughly in a Whirlwind topper thread.
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29CD37F3-F172-48B9-9C05-FBB0F2B8EAF7 (resized).jpeg
6B3B853F-D8BD-4994-929D-018323143705 (resized).jpegNow for the SC playfield and apron clearing.
Ready 
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Done
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SC cabinet is sanded ,unmasked and prepped for decals.
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