Topic index (key posts)

210 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

The loop diverter post is rebuilt with lots of protection in place.
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The reason is that the entire harness runs very close to the plunger the leads on these oftentimes get bent or broken.
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By protecting them the will be hard to break and can’t chafe anything 79940839-43FB-4FCB-BE66-A01E50867264 (resized).jpeg
The extended wiring will make running it safely out of harms way much easier. 19F77E05-43E5-4212-A1C1-E3AE3758B329 (resized).jpeg
Much more there to work with than the factory version and color correct.

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The other coils in that lot are done the same way.

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Yes a good work space is key! I need to HEP it up and paint the rotisserie parts!

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Quoted from heni1977:
Yes a good work space is key! I need to HEP it up and paint the rotisserie parts! [quoted image]

It is. Organization and a workspace that works for you is crucial.
I was actually doing pretty good today/ tonight until American royalty showed up.
When Jackie O showed up in the middle of nowhere it slowed things down a bit. 44ADD1E2-F8B2-4781-8454-705D57309CD2 (resized).jpeg
I did manage to squeeze a few more coils out. 299C51A7-F40D-42F5-A694-54E1234C3E08 (resized).jpeg

Maverick started getting into everything as usual and had to be hooked back up to the ball and chain.
He makes sure to move his stuff as far as possible from it including his little workshop bed . Strange little guy.

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OP
Quoted from High_End_Pins:
Maverick is back from the groomers and given the rare freedom of free range in the workspace. It started off rough but he eventually got bored or tired himself out.
[quoted image]
The coils are coming along.
First when it comes to coils that look like this it is a waste of my time to try and clean and relabel them. The labels cost a couple bucks each and they suck. A postage stamp sticks better.
On top of that by the time I wash it blow all the water out desolder it the other $8 saved is actually spent plus and then even worse is later finding out one of the leads broke or something.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Your scrap guy must be very happy to deal with you.

Quoted from chad:
Your scrap guy must be very happy to deal with you.

I don’t have one yet but things are accumulating again.

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Next TOTAN part to deal with will be the skill shot bracket.
The original is rough. 77A75F03-295F-4BA6-8A55-CC80A2A7C1DF (resized).jpeg

I bought a plated one
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Digging around in my bins I found a NOS set of playfield decals.
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Has the skill shot set C109A0E2-B49C-4A87-9EB8-FD488AC359BB (resized).jpeg

Rebuilt. I know originally it has a green bulb cover.I used yellow to see if I like that better once lit.

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Using the rest of the NOS decal set I did the magnet assembly
Had a small nick in it 48C70116-4DE8-41B2-9AD7-D353787DC576 (resized).jpeg

Now it does not. I placed the new over the old after a thorough cleaning for better durability.

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Rebuilt the genie and the spinning lamp as well as vanishing magnet so with the exception of the diverter all coils are done.
Diverter is easier to access out of the cabinet.

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Ramps are being done.
These are beat.

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Two easy ramps are finished.

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Next will be/was the backboard.
The decal is peeling
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The plastic is melted
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The GI sockets are bent and shorted. This is a common problem on this game. A good place to start looking if you start blowing GI fuses.

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The panel is stripped down
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No wonder the decal stuck so poorly.
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Flatten and degrading it 769F2E0E-ED24-4BB0-8861-5764D1AB3C78 (resized).jpeg

I also rounded the edges out to make sure the easily clear the inner art
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For this panel it is ready to lightly paint. Just looking to black it out prior to placing a new decal.

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Painted 26FB3646-7E0C-4B4C-BF4E-8C7670D62EFC (resized).jpeg

New decal applied 5B68ADD1-326A-41D9-9EC2-BE5C40B8E80F (resized).jpeg
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The sockets will be swapped for a lower profile set up
The staple down sockets work best 6CD3C4C2-6261-4AFE-BFCD-DD9D291F2FA9 (resized).jpeg
They tend to stick out just a little too far if you are using regular bulbs or LEDs with domes.
The solution is to use leg bolt hole protectors around them 25E1F5D1-6E0A-4B9E-AE8F-72ADE49E64D2 (resized).jpeg
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Stapled down
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Wired
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Built complete
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When I bought the inner art I also bought a backboard decal. This is from the very same people that made the inside art

Unfortunately I had to reject it because the colors were too drab
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The worst thing is that the decal I did use for the backboard (not theirs) actually matched their side panels better
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OP
Quoted from High_End_Pins:
They tend to stick out just a little too far if you are using regular bulbs or LEDs with domes.
The solution is to use leg bolt hole protectors around them

Brilliant.

Next up for. The TOTAN is building up a new speaker panel.
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The old one has some gold flaking off.
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I bought the speaker panel “kit” from Marco but only received the bare panel.Bo grilles,no speaker housings no clips. Lame !

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What pissed me off even more was the that the two Bally coin door skins I bought are all scratched up as usual.
What’s the point in buying these if they come pre damaged?!!
Both of them.
Pure shit honestly!!!

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OP
Quoted from High_End_Pins:
What’s the point in buying these if they come pre damaged?!!
Both of them.
Pure shit honestly!!![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I'm sure Marco will make it right. Maybe if you bring it to their attention they will change the handling/storage procedures to stop the protective plastic from getting dragged.

The Balls deep guy makes a return but he is different this time.

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Quoted from PinMonk:
I'm sure Marco will make it right. Maybe if you bring it to their attention they will change the handling/storage procedures to stop the protective plastic from getting dragged.

Yeah I know they will but the last time the exact same thing happened then they sent me two replacements one of which had the tab welded in the wrong spot.
All the back and forth trying to get something as simple as what you ordered and a new part that actually looks new and fits is way more trouble than it should be.
These skins are about $100 each so it is ridiculous really.

While I was typing I heard a noise.

It is one I hear all the time Maverick chewing on his toys no big deal.

Then I decide to look at him 9BFD5181-2C2C-44E9-8AD7-26E58D6008A3 (resized).jpeg
Looks like he found my spare lamps and likes them.
Maverick!!632C0881-99AF-43A9-87D8-5053706ED953 (resized).jpeg

Oh well. At least it wasn’t the sword.
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OP
Quoted from High_End_Pins:
Yeah I know they will but the last time the exact same thing happened then they sent me two replacements one of which had the tab welded in the wrong spot.
All the back and forth trying to get something as simple as what you ordered and a new part that actually looks new and fits is way more trouble than it should be.
These skins are about $100 each so it is ridiculous really.

Yeah I guess that goes back to poor reproductions again. Very few are interested in doing repro parts right. A thicker protective skin or individually wrapped doors would solve the marring issue for what? 30 cents in quantity? But those kinds of decisions go all through repros and usually err on the side of cheap/wrong.

Quoted from PinMonk:
Yeah I guess that goes back to poor reproductions again. Very few are interested in doing repro parts right. A thicker protective skin or individually wrapped doors would solve the marring issue for what? 30 cents in quantity? But those kinds of decisions go all through repros and usually err on the side of cheap/wrong.

That is definitely the problem. These came individually bubble wrapped so it was 100% like that when the packed them. Already torn up
They should reject any that have a scratch through the film or offer them at a lower price.
The mentality definitely seems like “ Ship it. Let’s see if they accept it”

A question on the coil wrappers -

The quality on those is bad? Has that changed recently? I got a set from Planetary about 2 years ago for my Funhouse restore and I was very happy with the quality. But the set was pricey.

Based on your post, I wonder if they have cut corners (like so many other parts suppliers). That would suck.

TOTAN speaker panel
Game has the Color DMD LED version. This is my preferred version personally.
I like that it fits in the same footprint of the original. D85A148E-9F6D-41DA-97A4-6E6A1616817C (resized).jpeg
The new panel is prepped. 6A8E4E80-B065-454A-BF77-5F4CC027B740 (resized).jpeg

One thing that I do not like about color dmds in WPC 95 panels is the large gap between the display and the shield.
Fixing that is easy enough
Clip some of the stand off away 00AC236F-F35D-4DF5-89FF-6F12D8CA400C (resized).jpeg
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Now it fits just right without the large empty gaps
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Panel is complete
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Now for the TOTAN transformer.
This one is pretty ugly. B4C9780E-653B-4334-A39F-F528668C4C2A (resized).jpeg

The rust and dirt are the main thing. 86891389-D98A-4C6A-84C5-085759FF774D (resized).jpeg
It is a problem on the brackets as well.
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One burnt connector for the GI 9CADB859-0FBE-4CAC-A346-4E3031690C77 (resized).jpeg

Break it down
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The brackets get lightly blasted. I just want the rust gone not wanting to remove every bit of the coating on them.
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Now they are recleared with clear chip guard because t is something similar to what was removed and will not allow them to rust.

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Next the transformer itself
Lightly hit with the wheel
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This much. Not trying to strip it or anything more than remove the majority of the rust.
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Now it can be etched.
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Two light coats give protection and a factory fresh appearance. There is an art to it because if you put too much on it won’t look right. Too little and it will rust again if in poor conditions. 25201B7C-E826-4525-A488-C5E8F9E51B79 (resized).jpeg

Rebuilt

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Quoted from Elicash:
A question on the coil wrappers -
The quality on those is bad? Has that changed recently? I got a set from Planetary about 2 years ago for my Funhouse restore and I was very happy with the quality. But the set was pricey.
Based on your post, I wonder if they have cut corners (like so many other parts suppliers). That would suck.

The ones I had been getting looked fine and seemed ok but later on I found they were coming off. They tend to just unpeel themselves.
I would work around it for a while using added tape and other solutions but finally just gave up on them.
Would be a good product if they worked but when new label can’t even stick to itself that is unusual and having to find ways to make them work got old fast.

Quoted from Elicash:
A question on the coil wrappers -
The quality on those is bad? Has that changed recently? I got a set from Planetary about 2 years ago for my Funhouse restore and I was very happy with the quality. But the set was pricey.
Based on your post, I wonder if they have cut corners (like so many other parts suppliers). That would suck.

I've found the same thing as Chris. They stick initially, but after a month or so, they will start to peel off. They've always done this. Easy fix for this....when installing them, leave about the last inch. Brush on contact cement to both surfaces. Let sit for about 5 minutes. Finish the install. You'll have no more issues.

OP
Quoted from High_End_Pins:
Maybe.
I always thought the guy on the sides looked a lot like Mike McGill.
The inventor of the Mctwist(540).

He does look a little McGillish. However his board shape looks a little like the Jeff Kendall graffiti deck. I'm pretty sure the artist probably poured over a bunch of pictures in Transworld and Thrasher magazines to inform the art package. You can tell by the illustration and 'sayings' on the game that the artist was not truly steeped in skate culture. That said, I still love the game and it will likely be the last skateboard themed pin we see

Quoted from Pickle:
Yep..he was a part of it for sure but was not sure anyone here would know who he was.
Some old school Rodney for anyone that never saw Freestyle in the 80’s....this guy was considered the best at the time for freestyle.

Pretty much every pro freestyle contest was a contest for second. Rodney was on a whole different level. Modern street skating owes a lot to him.

Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:
I've found the same thing as Chris. They stick initially, but after a month or so, they will start to peel off. They've always done this. Easy fix for this....when installing them, leave about the last inch. Brush on contact cement to both surfaces. Let sit for about 5 minutes. Finish the install. You'll have no more issues.

Have any of you printed your own coil wrappers on good paper and used glue sticks on the back? I have rebuilt a bunch of games replacing the coil wrappers this way, paper seems to stick well even after a few years of use.

Quoted from Kawydud:
Have any of you printed your own coil wrappers on good paper and used glue sticks on the back? I have rebuilt a bunch of games replacing the coil wrappers this way, paper seems to stick well even after a few years of use.

I don't know... By definition wouldn't all homemade wrappers made by you be duds?

TOTAN came in with a Rottendog driver and CPU
I try to avoid these when possible.
They are ok if needed but not ideal.
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My main contention with the Rottendog driver in a WPC95 game is that they do not use the proper style of fuses this can confuse the owner and creates a need for two different fuse styles for one game. Not the end of the world but as stated less than ideal.
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A serviced set of original boards is now in place
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Time to scrap the old cabinet.

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OP
Quoted from High_End_Pins:
TOTAN came in with a Rottendog driver and CPU
I try to avoid these when possible.
They are ok if needed but not ideal.
[quoted image]
My main contention with the Rottendog driver in a WPC95 game is that they do not use the proper style of fuses this can confuse the owner and creates a need for two different fuse styles for one game. Not the end of the world but as stated less than ideal.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Naturally the owner gets the Rottendog boards back, or is there a trade credit??

Quoted from chad:
Naturally the owner gets the Rottendog boards back, or is there a trade credit??

It all depends on what they sent. What I have available and what I can spare.
In this case the Rottendogs will go back with the game because they had an original set to exchange with me.
If not I am definitely not trading originals for Rottendogs out of my own stock.

TOTAN cabinet wired

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TOTAN playfield is building up
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

OP
Quoted from High_End_Pins:
It all depends on what they sent. What I have available and what I can spare.
In this case the Rottendogs will go back with the game because they had an original set to exchange with me.
If not I am definitely not trading originals for Rottendogs out of my own stock.

I think it's worth pointing out that Chris doesn't just make any changes without talking with the customer. None. He's very clear about what he feels you should do, and very willing to do what you want within reason. But he doesn't make any changes to your game that would surprise you. If he makes a fundamental change, it'll be with your permission and agreement.

He doesn't always talk about *that* part of each game in these posts, but you can trust that you'll get input and he won't be swapping out your parts willy nilly without checking with you first if you're the actual customer.

--Donnie

OP
Quoted from High_End_Pins:
A serviced set of original boards is now in place
[quoted image]
Time to scrap the old cabinet.[quoted image]

Your work is awesome. I always enjoy coming back to this thread and seeing what is new. With this post and one a few above it, you mentioned you had parts and pieces for scrap. Do you offer some of this stuff up to other people instead of scrapping it? Some of the coils and brackets looked more than salvageable for someone doing their own restore. I would also imagine that someone may have a totally trashed TOTAN and the old cabinet here might be a tremendous upgrade for them.

OP
Quoted from High_End_Pins:
TOTAN playfield is building up
[quoted image][quoted image]

hey chris
that wire guide rail looks crooked

TOTAN underside is being assembled.
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All new sockets are needed because of rust and green gook
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Nickel plated looms were also needed because of corrosion
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All flasher sockets are on plugs with short protection and plenty of wire so the tabs won’t be stressed

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Quoted from WonderMellon:
Your work is awesome. I always enjoy coming back to this thread and seeing what is new. With this post and one a few above it, you mentioned you had parts and pieces for scrap. Do you offer some of this stuff up to other people instead of scrapping it? Some of the coils and brackets looked more than salvageable for someone doing their own restore. I would also imagine that someone may have a totally trashed TOTAN and the old cabinet here might be a tremendous upgrade for them.

Sometimes.
Some of that stuff isn’t worth salvaging. Other things I might put to the side and go back through when I have time or run low on new stock.
Many of the Old brackets Get nickel plated then absorbed back into inventory.
This is kind of like a mini factory.

Quoted from j_m_:
hey chris
that wire guide rail looks crooked

That’s slightly bent.
Those really long ones are some of the worst to remove and drive back in because the longer they get the more flimsy so once they bottom out in the drill hole they can get slightly tweaked.
I always go around and check ball flow and alignment during different stages.
I have some special pliers that I use to make adjustments to wire guides specifically.

Come on, man! You can't tease us with something like "special pliers" and not show them off!

All TOTAN roll over switches are being replaced
The brackets are polished along with the sling and jet switches.
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I am working through the targets.
These are beat
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I do have the correct faces.

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Dinner is homemade chicken chili

I eat that with a few chips a little salsa and some avocado.

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Beer 1 is Gulden Draak 9000
Got plenty of it and the reg.

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Quoted from xeneize:
Come on, man! You can't tease us with something like "special pliers" and not show them off!

Sorry.
Here they are
image (resized).jpg
Looking in a mans drawers. Have you guys no shame. Asking what’s in them

These are the ones I like to use to adjust the Larger wire guides.
They are wire forming pliers and won’t mark the surface. The cupped side cradles the guide and lets it rest safely against the tension.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

OP
Quoted from High_End_Pins:
These are the ones I like to use to adjust the Larger wire guides.

Thanks for letting us watch you ply your trade.

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By High_End_Pins

5 years ago

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