(Topic ID: 225528)
Linked Games
Addams Family, The
Bally, 1992-
Airborne
Capcom, 1996
-
Alien (Heighway Pinball)
Heighway Pinball, 2017
-
Black Knight
Williams, 1980
-
Bram Stoker's Dracula
Williams, 1993
-
Centaur
Bally, 1981
-
Centigrade 37
Gottlieb, 1977
-
Champion Pub
Bally, 1998
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Matthews, NC
Quoted from too-many-pins:I bet your other son loves days like this! See you in a few days. Enjoy your day off.
Thanks. We try to have as much fun as we possibly can.
Once again, Maverick has perfect form (look how he's dead center on that perfectly folded blanket) and Curtis....needs work. No symmetry, not on the blanket -or- the rug, missing his eye patch, etc. Might be that Curtis has more liquid refreshment than Maverick did, though. LOL.
--Donnie
Quoted from djb_rh:Once again, Maverick has perfect form (look how he's dead center on that perfectly folded blanket) and Curtis....needs work. No symmetry, not on the blanket -or- the rug, missing his eye patch, etc. Might be that Curtis has more liquid refreshment than Maverick did, though. LOL.
--Donnie
It’s hard to compete with Maverick on any level
If you even try to ignore him he will make his presence known 
He does this this thing where he hangs off the loveseat and howls until you acknowledge him.
0226F891-1EB1-4B7D-85F1-75EE4A471236 (resized).jpegI survived the Pirate party yesterday. No more of those for a while 
It is early October and I have probably three or four games I need to get out before Christmas.
Sounds like a long time but it will be here before you know it and there are transit times too.
Can’t focus on those until I wrap up the HG 2
Radical and TOTAN since everything is in order for them
On top of that I got the first batch of Spirit 2 parts back from plating so it is going to be a pretty busy time for a few weeks.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgI had a thought after reading this thread for months.... you should get a sponsorship from Nike. They are clearly the HEP outfitter of choice.
Quoted from robotron911:I had a thought after reading this thread for months.... you should get a sponsorship from Nike. They are clearly the HEP outfitter of choice.
I should. My wife does all the clothes shopping for us though so it is what she knows fit us ,the styles we wear etc without us having to be there.
Quality is going down hill though so I will likely start phasing them out.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:I should. My wife does all the clothes shopping for us though so it is what she knows fit us ,the styles we wear etc without us having to be there.
Quality is going down hill though so I will likely start phasing them out.
What? Giving up on that sweet endorsement opportunity by calling out their quality?
just-do-it-HEP (resized).jpgWould have to change the title of the thread if you "sold out" . . . "HEP This Week | Brought to You by Nike"
Hmmm, individual thread sponsorships on Pinside - I'm a genius! Let the cash start flowing! 
Quoted from PinMonk:What? Giving up on that sweet endorsement opportunity by calling out their quality?[quoted image]
If this was their actual campaign I would definitely support them
Made a pretty big dent in the HG playfield wiring.
image (resized).jpg
Going for a more original style on this one as requested. I still don’t want to staple anymore thanI have to.
The close runs are done with bare wireimage (resized).jpg
The jumps are done with insulated gray wire and a little slack.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgQuoted from High_End_Pins:HG 2 finished.
While I'm not much on sports themed pins, this one has turned me!
Quoted from ToucanF16:Pin porn! What’s up next?
TOTAN or Radical depending on how each falls together.
Quoted from heni1977:Wondering why you leave the board that holds the tilt's warning plain?
Keeping it factory fresh!
Quoted from heni1977:Wondering why you leave the board that holds the tilt's warning plain?
I don’t always or usually do that sometimes I eliminate it all together like you see on HG 1
Depends on the vibe I get from the owner.
This one seemed to be looking for a more factory style but open to some minor enhancements.
That’s the key to doing this professionally. You have to be able to adapt to different styles and request.
Next point of focus will be finishing up the TOTAN
I have been gathering parts for a couple weeks.
ABEDD09D-5D2A-4065-A053-E4780528683E (resized).jpeg60390D55-5548-42E1-A541-ADD4E00780B5 (resized).jpegB32F3639-1150-49CC-86FC-4B85A450E6B5 (resized).jpegB1D11457-A831-4414-B5D0-A22A4693B35E (resized).jpegThe new TOTAN cabinet is building up and then moved next to the donor game c
65A0AF80-CD49-4188-B813-A315A8682D5F (resized).jpeg934BEB4B-032D-4EF9-BF98-49277AEFF95E (resized).jpegE22521FB-A61C-4C3A-B65E-530964EDB50E (resized).jpegIts time to start tearing the old one down to harvest the parts needed.
C4C17B3B-C5B0-4111-BBC5-48806C17BA9C (resized).jpeg
This will restore as I go.
First part in hand is the translite panel.
No purpose in just removing it and putting it to the side only to have to deal with it again a a later time. Best to handle it now.
It’s cooked,dirty etc
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Separating
F10E9A50-F7C9-45B6-83A0-1B54FF832D81 (resized).jpeg
Translite is dirty but not damaged in any way
81576036-656D-4AF4-A3DB-B3A158E8B6E4 (resized).jpeg
Eggshell is burnt. Couple minor hairline cracks around a couple bulbs from heat but no missing pieces.
FCFA9B86-8E93-46B3-B696-2DB5892CD5F5 (resized).jpegEggshell is carefully torn down completely.
DCBD8A2E-F608-46E2-9D07-FE35974FCE3A (resized).jpeg
EF31B3AB-94F3-433E-841A-823F3D947F61 (resized).jpeg
There are replacements out there but they fit very poorly and I think we are down to the ones you have to drill all your own holes in.
Way too much trouble and risk only to end up with a lousy fitting part. If it were not salvageable I would deal with that but this one is really just fine. Needs a facelift.
After washing and drying it is plastic prepped on both sides. Very important
828CFE9F-39D6-49C9-B1F5-465BBF304671 (resized).jpeg
B19AB00F-61AB-4336-BD04-5DAAA6A86660 (resized).jpeg
6F64EC97-0A46-41EA-BF44-E5A94B6B6EB7 (resized).jpeg
The panel is then based in white after plastic priming. That is all that will be needed.
C7BDCDB0-B183-4825-B2D7-73A1598C88BD (resized).jpegA2F7A5D5-23CE-4555-9D5F-706204FA7888 (resized).jpegNow the panel is rebuilding after cleaning all parts and wiring.
3182014D-2E0D-49A9-96E7-A8C6B89D25F1 (resized).jpeg
The connector is rebuilt because it was burnt.
C15D4374-71ED-44AF-A45D-94D1C96870C3 (resized).jpeg
A mixture of warm and cool frosted LEDs are placed to compliment the color scheme and art on the translite.
637C82AA-B9B1-4B4E-A55C-AD5675ED4909 (resized).jpeg
The glass is cleaned.
68489E58-FD2E-4760-A49F-67861B5CF2EF (resized).jpeg
The translite is carefully washed and dried.
A6431BF0-D3F8-4BFC-BCF2-140D6102D4E8 (resized).jpeg
Now reassembled with new channels.
7A39DC48-65C3-4EAF-8771-ADBB67E29423 (resized).jpeg
0720B0D4-8A31-4C2C-8639-ABBC21DE27B2 (resized).jpeg
Just to put it in perspective. This was probably about a three hour job in total for just that part Easily $75 in materials was used and maybe $25 for the channels so $100 and three hours and we have only done the translite.
Some of the smaller details can be more time consuming and tedious than people might realize.
Okay, I've never heard of plastic cleaner. Are you saying that wiping that old yellowed piece with that stuff turned it that white again? How much effort is involved to achieve such great results - from your pics it looks like you actually painted the piece white?
Quoted from High_End_Pins:The panel is then based in white after plastic priming.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:from your pics it looks like you actually painted the piece white?
Thanks, I didn't catch that. I was really wondering what that miracle liquid was that I've never heard of before - it was about to rock my plastic world! 
Now I start removing the playfield wiring.
All this is in an effort to unearth the inner parts of the cabinet strangely enough without making a big mess of the workspace.
3CC5641E-3C26-444A-8DFF-E2219BD5BDAF (resized).jpeg
9F49243D-CE9D-4F31-A02A-76EDB669A88D (resized).jpeg
The solenoid harness is removed.
C22240CA-B2B2-41F2-AF2F-47C600DD5998 (resized).jpeg
I just clip everything on a game like this that is filthy and beat.
It doesn’t matter if it is a coil or a flasher socket none of those things can be properly cleaned and rebuilt still attached to the harness when they are this bad.
Another issue is wiring real estate. Much of it is run too tight and has been stretched and pulled. Creating better junctions as I go through it will solve that
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgThe solenoid harness is cleaned and dried.
Now laid out to tighten it up.
F7708540-1A7B-478D-AA01-F865488E2D9A (resized).jpeg
The first thing I am looking for is slop in the factory run.
If things cannot be pulled tighter naturally I will rework them so they are even.
This is an example. The purple wire cannot be evenly run with the two reds it makes for slop in the harness.
63123BA1-79F7-4B2A-B644-F73F3CFF8921 (resized).jpeg
It is then clipped and pulled even
5D3D9336-E329-40C2-9E95-853856EE8543 (resized).jpeg
8BBF4869-1AAF-451F-B85A-578B9F6B8AA2 (resized).jpeg
With this bit removed it is now neat
94C33D0A-190B-4BAC-A572-6B6588249AE1 (resized).jpegA53CA7CB-9236-4F78-B685-DB68FE43774C (resized).jpegNext up for the solenoid harness is to make plugs for the clipped items
This will be flippers,flashers and jet bumpers. Everything else is already on a plug.
There are a lot of flashers though
72215082-110E-4383-B2AC-6F12CFEF8F7F (resized).jpeg
Flippers go on three pins in the same order they solder(red tip/banded,yellow center,orange flat/non banded)
Keeping it streamlined like that makes it easy to offer a better level of support if needed. CDB7500A-D187-427A-98C1-449C7B21618D (resized).jpeg
The flashers are all done on two pins with the red being the tip and the other lead(ground) being the flat.
image (resized).jpg
Solenoid harness is done any other needed wiring or provisions will be made into the parts and sockets themselves.
A147B965-2BB1-4163-BFDB-0E21B18BBA3F (resized).jpeg62BD3EDB-6E6A-4954-9348-DB64B1FCF874 (resized).jpegE6DBA624-2593-4E28-B09C-6CC9BA135BD4 (resized).jpegHigh_End_Pins Chris - it's funny, since learning from your threads I now have to always have a well stocked bin of molex plugs and pins...it is a tedious process adding all those connectors, but man - it's nice during repopulation and troubleshooting!
Again, thanks for all you do to further our "pin-ducation"!
Quoted from xeneize:I now have to always have a well stocked bin of molex plugs and pins...
If only Chris could partner with a place like pinball life to have HEP approved restoration wannabe kits.
Time to start shaving weight off the playfield and that means removing the coils.
5786AB16-D059-4BE3-BB2A-997BE63EE6F1 (resized).jpeg
It also means removing the under playfield trough for better access to more parts.
A35D34FC-74D4-4913-81AF-C269480A02CF (resized).jpeg
Straight to the sink It reminds me of what we do with Maverick on the rare occasion that he shits his little fur suit. Actually he has hair not fur. But that is another story
F35545AB-E5E8-4BE7-8F4D-E0C1BA815ACD (resized).jpeg
That trough is washed polished then lightly flame torched
3AAA7C04-6BBB-4518-9E95-AB5C45F959EA (resized).jpeg
The switches are replaced and color correct extended wiring is placed. TOTAN uses a lot of two pin switches under and above the playfield so this will really benefit the game and future maintenance. FDDE759F-30CB-49F6-9167-19E94E331F1C (resized).jpegBE87EE12-B2B8-4FDD-89A2-4B0777A2D7CE (resized).jpeg
Now it needs a safe spot 51F54938-9ED7-4794-8393-A4127287BEE6 (resized).jpeg
This is one of the best and most underrated parts of the room
Makes a great workbench
0E41D19D-98E0-4253-8AD5-89B494B2B5D8 (resized).jpeg
Can fit two entire games worth of parts in it
D9368400-D736-41D7-B485-B9B1B64F66E3 (resized).jpeg83437395-1EF0-4C1A-BC97-3BEEA09D01B6 (resized).jpegNow I can start dealing with coils.
This game can go straight back together all that needs to happen is I just need to rebuild everything
The cages are first.
0CE0C609-1B66-4184-B47B-0CA83A149CFC (resized).jpeg
E9840156-DF74-4313-AE16-470CF0081DD3 (resized).jpeg
These “spikes” are actually just old style post that are not threaded on one end and then flash plated in gold like finish.
In the past I have had them plated but it really wasn’t worth the effort because that thickens them and makes them run even tighter plus you have to tap the threads and I have even had a few ruined.
All that for what reason? So when it holds in the up position for a full second it looks a touch nicer if you even see it at all.
No thanks!
F2AD0EFA-AC30-455B-83A3-A5EF8933A12E (resized).jpeg
I break the assembly down
965C0BBC-34BD-46C6-8214-69488137315E (resized).jpeg
Clean everything in the ultrasonic. These main brackets are a thinner/other material than the typical coil brackets with multiple holes and threading so nickel plating isn’t ideal unless they are trashed. F813BE87-B0AE-4C28-949D-60E46E5AD902 (resized).jpeg
69D57564-F444-48CC-B62F-ACE02D57B141 (resized).jpeg
Rebuilt with new sleeve and extended wiring.
These coil wrappers are a necessary evil on these particular coils because they originally have a cardboard paper like wrapper that stains and falls apart if you try to clean it.
Clear tubing is added at the zip tie point
F572D2A1-0996-4EB8-8030-EBF77D1D3AB9 (resized).jpeg9D7632F7-6A34-4115-B5B7-ABA67A3D61C1 (resized).jpegMaverick is back from the groomers and given the rare freedom of free range in the workspace. It started off rough but he eventually got bored or tired himself out.
image (resized).jpg
The coils are coming along.
First when it comes to coils that look like this it is a waste of my time to try and clean and relabel them. The labels cost a couple bucks each and they suck. A postage stamp sticks better.
On top of that by the time I wash it blow all the water out desolder it the other $8 saved is actually spent plus and then even worse is later finding out one of the leads broke or something.
33BAA0E6-0EF9-4D31-8385-7C5BFD89AE14 (resized).jpeg83D97FF6-CEB9-47E5-A2D0-735C76E4352D (resized).jpeg93843296-5020-4BCE-805E-720949EE152B (resized).jpegAACEB303-9CD9-4E1B-8607-8725FCA24E83 (resized).jpegDD0B9EDA-265D-4B4C-BDA9-146BE47DCE9A (resized).jpegE5939E02-227F-450B-A064-91A3F1FBD1D8 (resized).jpegI gather any plated parts I have that match up and coils.
B859323D-9C04-4B02-A7AC-417ACA3E64A7 (resized).jpeg
Things like the flipper assemblies are also a waste of time on a game like this.
96DA6398-ABB7-4BFC-ACA8-2B49513F6CBD (resized).jpeg
By the time you buy the kit ,the bushing and the coil then have to teardown,rebuild and clean and polish the parts reused the new assembly looks that much better.
image (resized).jpg
Other coils are equally suspect.
Some are wrong FE06E13C-F9EA-4522-A979-438588D505A5 (resized).jpeg
Others are new and probably fine but won’t match the others which is fine if no alternative but less than ideal if there is. And there is. 848DB266-4C76-48C6-B9C6-AD2901B3694E (resized).jpeg
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