(Topic ID: 225528)

HEP This Week 6-1-2020


By High_End_Pins

1 year ago



Topic Stats

  • 7,063 posts
  • 390 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 19 hours ago by High_End_Pins
  • Topic is favorited by 411 Pinsiders

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Topic poll

“EBD Trim legs will be black regardless ”

  • Stainless/Factory 35 votes
    31%
  • Blacked out 54 votes
    48%
  • Painted Gold matched to cabinet 24 votes
    21%

(113 votes)

This poll has been closed.

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10
#4951 8 months ago

Now cleaned and retaped to clean up some art.
Mostly the yellow sun on the front. The factory version was a little sloppy from screen overlapping. Mine will stay true to that but be a little cleaner just so it doesn’t look like my own work was too sloppy.

More importantly I revised the yellow stripe with some more aggressive patterns a bit more in line with what was originally there. Not identical but giving a very similar impression.

78C45C4D-354E-435B-8CE1-A32DDE38DB97 (resized).jpegB981425F-6803-47A5-9B5E-B9714EE959A5 (resized).jpeg
#4952 8 months ago

Now unmasked and we are ready for the final clear.

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#4953 8 months ago

Wow, nicely done!

Looks..... radical

#4954 8 months ago

Final clear is sprayed.
It is a 65/35 gloss to matte ratio.
This should dry down to a nice sheen that is not too glossy nor too flat
Will know more about how that settles in tomorrow it depends on much more than just the ratios. Application,humidity and much more can all play a small part in the final finish but the ratios are pretty solid and reliable as a whole.

7A5F303C-49BB-4DD3-B168-DF435DF1F7C9 (resized).jpegB667752F-F291-4D10-82C9-ECC966335D23 (resized).jpeg1D0983FC-CA5E-462B-8DCE-086BBAB6E66F (resized).jpeg191DF280-3DA6-429D-BF93-111F7FBDEA81 (resized).jpeg3FA739F6-4A1B-41FB-9894-56BD75EB87C7 (resized).jpeg0D69EAD8-1782-4042-B4F3-20D5254883E8 (resized).jpegD99A99EC-45E6-46C7-8A26-E57E289CD402 (resized).jpeg07EDEAA8-4792-46A2-B587-2CF1FF181BEB (resized).jpeg6B0472AF-E465-4F63-84CA-CFD77F3006C4 (resized).jpeg
#4955 8 months ago

Chris: you did a great interview on Loser Kid. Those who wish to have a better idea of what goes into clear coating a playfield I would suggest a listen to their latest broadcast.

#4956 8 months ago

The more aggressive splatter pattern if a far better match, IMHO. Your earlier scheme was better aligned with the small splatter and colors on the art, but it was lost when viewing the game at more than a few feet. This looks like this was a factory job. Very nice work (as always)!

#4957 8 months ago

That is very close to original looking!!

Quoted from High_End_Pins:

Now unmasked and we are ready for the final clear.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

#4958 8 months ago

I like the choice to redo the spots to bigger ones... looks good.

#4959 8 months ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

More importantly I revised the yellow stripe with some more aggressive patterns a bit more in line with what was originally there. Not identical but giving a very similar impression.

Sweet, love it! I didn't want to say anything before since cameras can lie, but the first splatter was barely visible to me. This new one screams late '80s, early '90s neon "X-treme" culture. I like it even more than the factory art, because it was derivative of the blue/black area. Too much of the same pattern.

#4960 8 months ago

100 pages of excellence.

#4961 8 months ago

As others said the rework on the “Spots” was well worth it and looks much as intended from the factory.

Another example of the amount of trial and error to get it to HEP standards. The experience to pull this off and preserve the original decals. Most would shy away from attempting and live with new decals. And many of us that would attempt to preserve them would probably destroy or create more work on the existing decals. And only a few are capable of actually ending up with a presentable restoration/touch up to this level of the existing decals.

Your work really separates the difference from what a shop job is to a true restoration. Excellent work as always!!!

#4962 8 months ago

Curtis is still training.
Between the constant late night eating with the pregnant girlfriend and mamas cheesecake we aren’t making a huge impact on the scale but his fitness continues to improve.
021D70E6-A080-4519-8B24-02338ED66A2D (resized).jpeg2FD4AAFE-3E7D-4F16-9ABE-2CD354AEF587 (resized).jpeg

#4963 8 months ago

I finally got the last main harness off the BSD
This usually goes a bit quicker but there was just so much to work through. Both in volume and repairs.
This is the switch harness. Every switch less just one and every target will now be on a plug.
Time consuming but when wires are hacked and parts are really rough it helps give some real estate back to the harness and frees minor brackets to be polished or at least cleaned better. DF374063-70D2-4958-BF62-A02E70015C02 (resized).jpeg

This is what is left behind to either rework or duplicate. We are looking at all new runs of GI and sockets, switches etc
AEEF783D-CD14-42D5-8DED-A43B555EBFC4 (resized).jpeg66DE16D5-FA5E-4D33-963B-2852D2CAA8BB (resized).jpeg792075D8-8F9F-4660-9442-5E31895B26DF (resized).jpeg9DD6E936-C337-4C63-8236-E6CBF8E85C70 (resized).jpegBCD5BFFD-37F1-4AA1-8B97-BCC425587613 (resized).jpeg

#4964 8 months ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

Curtis is still training.
Between the constant late night eating with the pregnant girlfriend and mamas cheesecake we aren’t making a huge impact on the scale but his fitness continues to improve.
[quoted image][quoted image]

You're gonna be a grandpa?! Congrats!

#4965 8 months ago
Quoted from edward472:

You're gonna be a grandpa?! Congrats!

Yes I am. Thanks!

#4966 8 months ago

Now I am ready to get some playfields sanded and polished for assembly.
I stack them up in the sanding and polishing room.
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First will be BSD
C96D3343-E5A2-47CF-ADE9-189EFAF68A66 (resized).jpeg
Sanded
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Polished.

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#4967 8 months ago

Now Radical image (resized).jpg
Sanded
image (resized).jpg
Polished.

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#4968 8 months ago
Quoted from edward472:

You're gonna be a grandpa?! Congrats!

Grandpa HEP!!! Congrats Chris..... tell Curtis in lieu of cigars we're looking forward to see what BOURBON BARREL beer he gives out!

#4969 8 months ago

Next is Harlem Globetrotters
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Sanded
8C49663F-8EF6-4EF0-BE29-579D469B45E0 (resized).jpeg
Polished

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#4970 8 months ago

What are your thoughts about adding Mylar to BSD where the ball lands on the playfield from the shooter lane for home use?

#4971 8 months ago

TOTAN
9A8AE991-742D-452F-8F77-98CB7DB0A0CA (resized).jpeg

Sanded 3B40B3F5-0D96-470F-B2B1-DC90E8CD586C (resized).jpeg
Polished.

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#4972 8 months ago

Fathom sanded
96EAA047-5E8E-406E-8048-7A0D78209662 (resized).jpeg
Polished.

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#4973 8 months ago

Not bad Grampa, not bad! Any tips on buffing a playfield without overheating the inserts? I know you prefer the wool pad over foam because I pay close attention to your posts. I also think you use Meguiars 105, but I'm looking for some pointers on your method if possible.

#4974 8 months ago

How come your polished play fields don’t have all the holes filled with polish

What’s the trick? Am I using too much?

#4975 8 months ago
Quoted from mollyspub:

What are your thoughts about adding Mylar to BSD where the ball lands on the playfield from the shooter lane for home use?

Mylar anywhere the ball drops is a good idea.
Some spots can be hard to predict and place at a glance.
What I usually do is play the game a couple times and then I can usually spot a small impression or traction mark where things are landing and then cut and place a small Mylar section more accurately.

#4976 8 months ago
Quoted from NYP:

Not bad Grampa, not bad! Any tips on buffing a playfield without overheating the inserts? I know you prefer the wool pad over foam because I pay close attention to your posts. I also think you use Meguiars 105, but I'm looking for some pointers on your method if possible.

I sand with with 800,1200,then 1500.
Using only machines not hand sanding(trenches) nor block sanding(flattens the playfield too much and ruins game play IME)
I like a one step polishing method with a single compound and the wool pad with the looser fibers works best for me on playfields because of the many holes in the surface and because it is the quicker method requiring less buff time.
The less you have to buff the less heat you are generating consistently.
I keep the buffer moving quickly.I would rather do 200 quick passes over it never focusing on one spot than really grind into it on 50 slow passes or have to use multiple pads and compounds because all that overheats and over works the surface.
Doing that can look 5 or 10 percent nicer sitting on a coffee table under the lights but it is going to scuff and show wear even worse and will probably play poorly.

#4977 8 months ago

Radical cabinet is dry

I can screen the back of the head now.
904BB87D-1DAE-44CC-A9A6-54E4D9E71472 (resized).jpeg
There is a lot of area for such a little screen but I am sticking with the program on that and just using the traditional system 11 screen. I think the WPC version would have filled it in better. Especially on the funny shaped Bally heads of the time.

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#4978 8 months ago

This is the matte clear used on the Radical cabinet now dry. D109C1E3-AD51-44DD-BC87-94AB2F3F80BF (resized).jpeg

You would think it would make the surface look semi transparent at a minimum but it actually does not.
Just knocks a little or a lot of the gloss off the clear depending on ratios.

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#4979 8 months ago

Working on assembling the BSD playfield as well.
A42E1FE8-C970-4D46-8368-931D6B43C0AA (resized).jpeg

The metal conditioning and the really poor previous restore attempt have made it drag out a bit but should be pretty much downhill from here. A42E1FE8-C970-4D46-8368-931D6B43C0AA (resized).jpeg

A area like this doesn’t look like anything more than a nice new game but when you start out with a bunch of rust,corrosion,broken parts and hacked assemblies it is a much bigger transformation than it would seem.

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#4980 8 months ago

I have run into a couple things installing the playfield.
The first one was something hawknole pmed me to look out for that is the flipper Lane guide alignment.

I laid the guides on there solo and checked them over 08B89854-FB1F-4E35-BB9D-BADBBB4B2D61 (resized).jpeg

Adjustments were needed on both sides with the right being the worst.

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The next thing we’re the wireguides.
A58B1AD5-AB86-43CB-9FA8-877640C69558 (resized).jpeg

The holes are too small 324B1B94-8612-4DD2-A115-42A7F82BDE7F (resized).jpeg
Enlarged them as needed549F90B7-A041-450C-8636-952A3C65AE8F (resized).jpeg
Then set them using my custom wire guide gauge
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After that I discovered a missing post hole
D1E33899-B451-4C5B-AF73-A339866F5A54 (resized).jpeg

Drilled it out. The cliffy made that easy enough to locate but the factory deflector would have done the same.

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#4981 8 months ago

You would think after making so many fields , these errors would be taken care of at the factory...

#4982 8 months ago
Quoted from chad:

You would think after making so many fields , these errors would be taken care of at the factory...

Yeah. Between the missing holes,inaccurate dimples,insert issues and clearcoat problems it makes you wonder if they ever check anything or even care at all.

#4983 8 months ago

Have you ever come across a perfect install-ready playfield? I'd imagine even factory ones can have issues.

#4984 8 months ago
Quoted from chad:

You would think after making so many fields , these errors would be taken care of at the factory...

you would think, but I'll bet locations that were never correct are still are never re-addressed even with the reproduction playfields. given the number of dimples present on both the top and bottom side of a playfield, it's really easy to get one wrong or miss it altogether

I know that I ran through 7 revisions of correction for all of the topside hole and dimples with CPR and joust playfield. every time that I thought I had everything correct, I found something "off" just enough to make me re-measure and have them reposition things for another run and another subsequent check

#4985 8 months ago

Damn it! Every time I check out this thread I need to get home and have a BBQ...

#4986 8 months ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

Yeah. Between the missing holes,inaccurate dimples,insert issues and clearcoat problems it makes you wonder if they ever check anything or even care at all.

Exactly. If I paid a grand for a piece of wood, I shouldn't have to do anything to it, let alone enlist your expertise. You do wonderful work, but you shouldn't "have to" on these brand new expensive playfields.

11
#4987 8 months ago

Made it through the ball guides and post on the BSD.

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#4988 8 months ago

Shared a cherry banger then tried on Jesus’ tuxedo t shirt in medium . It fit perfectly. Way past what we call “Father Bedtime “around here
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#4989 8 months ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

Made it through the ball guides and post on the BSD.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I really like the green posts up top.

#4990 8 months ago

I enjoyed your interview on Loser Kid podcast. Glad to hear that you enjoy the restoration of Bally SS games. I own a collection of 12 different SS games. My podcast just did a review of Centaur. Other Bally games to come. You or some of your followers might be interested.

14
#4991 8 months ago

Starting to build up the BSD underside.
I am pretty much just building a new one in many ways.
New switches,targets,lamp sockets,scoops ,sling arms and all new screws.
Just about the only way to go on a game like this in the condition it was in if you want to leave no doubt about what you are sending back to the owner.

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#4992 8 months ago
Quoted from Nhpolarbear:

I enjoyed your interview on Loser Kid podcast. Glad to hear that you enjoy the restoration of Bally SS games. I own a collection of 12 different SS games. My podcast just did a review of Centaur. Other Bally games to come. You or some of your followers might be interested.

Thanks. I hadn’t done any podcast or interviews for a good while but things are more interesting these days and the hobby continues to change so there is more stuff to talk about.

#4993 8 months ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

Starting to build up the BSD underside.
I am pretty much just building a new one in many ways.
New switches,targets,lamp sockets,scoops ,sling arms and all new screws.
Just about the only way to go on a game like this in the condition it was in if you want to leave no doubt about what you are sending back to the owner.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I'm assuming the new scoops are from mantis ?

#4994 8 months ago

Looks like you have moved away from pop bumper lamps with the stiff metal legs. Is this due to the poor quality? How do you secure those different ones?

#4995 8 months ago
Quoted from Elicash:

Looks like you have moved away from pop bumper lamps with the stiff metal legs. Is this due to the poor quality? How do you secure those different ones?

The new 12" flex lead sockets are so much nicer than the old tin leg ones.

I dont know of anyone who would choose the old ones unless you are doing a retro kind of thing.

#4996 8 months ago
Quoted from mollyspub:

I'm assuming the new scoops are from mantis ?

Yep.

#4997 8 months ago
Quoted from Elicash:

Looks like you have moved away from pop bumper lamps with the stiff metal legs. Is this due to the poor quality? How do you secure those different ones?

Yes the poor quality and much higher cost of the metal leg version has made me make the switch.
The higher cost isn’t the issue so much but when coupled with lower quality and breaking far too easily or requiring extra steps it is a bad combo.

This is how I use the wire lead style.
It can vary depending on what’s around them or how they are tied to the lamp harness.
The BSD runs them off the GI specifically the orange,white/orange strand.

First some clear tubing this will be used to further insulate the wire that runs through the bumper bracket.
1D692A76-0141-4CB5-807B-9772D9FFAF09 (resized).jpeg
Push it in there until it bottoms out and is long enough to clear the bracket area
E4178608-A52C-4521-9AFD-C98EAE85278E (resized).jpeg

Cut them out. Need three.
FB6895D2-D2A2-422D-839E-842F830A54E3 (resized).jpeg

Now slide over the pass through lead. I use an old bracket to guide my routing. 3D7A74FE-BC97-458A-93D4-7D70804F805D (resized).jpeg

Stapled down. Critical not to press too hard on these when stapling because you can pierce the insulation or even cut the wire right in half.
63F5E815-FFBD-4C95-B396-76705628D577 (resized).jpeg375BC8DC-BAFB-4EAD-B972-4FF72A88F9A7 (resized).jpeg

I then use screw terminals to make similar junctions to the factory one with the exception of color coordinating and giving some wire to either make a plug or jumper to a socket depending on how it maps out once I place the harness and other parts.
46044AD0-922B-4DE7-A13A-B289E82332B2 (resized).jpeg5CA2A817-9508-4405-97E7-C42B6F9A03E0 (resized).jpeg4C13FD68-F5E9-443B-8099-B887BEE9C62E (resized).jpeg

This is what was originally there for comparison.

F110B995-D120-4201-B395-F3C8FDD67675 (resized).jpeg
#4998 8 months ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

Yes the poor quality and much higher cost of the metal leg version has made me make the switch.
The higher cost isn’t the issue so much but when coupled with lower quality and breaking far too easily or requiring extra steps it is a bad combo.
This is how I use the wire lead style.
It can vary depending on what’s around them or how they are tied to the lamp harness.
The BSD runs them off the GI specifically the orange,white/orange strand.
First some clear tubing this will be used to further insulate the wire that runs through the bumper bracket.
[quoted image]
Push it in there until it bottoms out and is long enough to clear the bracket area
[quoted image]
Cut them out. Need three.
[quoted image]
Now slide over the pass through lead. I use an old bracket to guide my routing. [quoted image]
Stapled down. Critical not to press too hard on these when stapling because you can pierce the insulation or even cut the wire right in half.
[quoted image][quoted image]
I then use screw terminals to make similar junctions to the factory one with the exception of color coordinating and giving some wire to either make a plug or jumper to a socket depending on how it maps out once I place the harness and other parts.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
This is what was originally there for comparison.[quoted image]

Thank you for sharing Chris!

#4999 8 months ago

Working through the GI.
These are all new sockets and color correct wiring.
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2D270791-4CAE-4012-9292-787FCE24733E (resized).jpeg
73750DA0-DA44-43A0-A68D-DC12774271FA (resized).jpeg
When they run really close you can tie the leads together socket to socket for a little cleaner look and simplicity. 25BA7AB3-3FEC-4A7F-A339-117700E6275D (resized).jpeg

Placed on plugs that are keyed specifically for the GI.
10798387-4A00-4D82-B557-291946438CD1 (resized).jpegC4CABC71-B2A0-4300-B5D9-3C20B0C365A7 (resized).jpeg
8A24FA5E-7090-43C5-AA54-0DB4A572FE54 (resized).jpeg
592275BE-FA23-4F67-BD1B-B3228B87B2AC (resized).jpeg
This is just a small example of what was there originally and how it was configured.

027F13B7-3E08-4B48-B0CB-0A84827D0E2D (resized).jpeg
#5000 8 months ago

Do you only stock your wire collection in 18awg? So you don't mind replacing a smaller wire with 18awg as long as they are color correct?

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