Medieval Madness
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Breaking the seal on this one today.
I will be restoring this original Medieval Madness and doing so in a manner that keeps it as original as possible meaning no decals,no replacement playfield nor any other parts unless they are service parts or needed in the best interest of the work itself or customer.
Dont even know what I have yet so first things first I am going to put it up on 4 legs.
Doubling the felt at set up.Do not want to make any extra work for myself.
Large standard plus smaller cut per leg .
Keeping the leg off the cab with a soft touch.
Original screened MM cabs are awesome but the art is fragile against sharp metal.This wont be a concern once cleared.
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Quoted from cooked71:Leg wear? What leg wear?
If the pf is as good as the cab looks, this one looks like a beauty.
Yes if you want to do this type of restoration on this type of game you really have to start in a reasonable position or else you end up needing to go the decal route.
Quoted from cooked71:Does that mean you touch up the cab or leave it as is?
My plan is repaint or retouch as needed and then clear coat entirely in an appropriate gloss level for long term durability.
Quoted from GotAQuestion:Looks like a darn good start as long as you either have the missing bits on hand, or can source them easy enough.
Yes I have definitely seen and done much worse but the point of this thread is really about showing different styles and approaches to getting the same results.
Also showcasing that even nice games can be enhanced .Restoring junk becomes common place and easy at times.
Glass is off and the playfield has good potential to say the least.
The game is not huo but it was probably operated privately, in the middle of nowhere or perhaps had a tech issue that took it out of circulation early on.
I don't know but always try to guess.
Ball drop and Merlin hole look great.
Will know more once it is completely stripped and cleaned.
The biggest issue I run into with MM playfields is the insert cracking and need to paint these yellow "burst".
It is tedious regardless of condition.I have seen and done it on even on NOS playfields as well.
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About to raise the playfield.
Small gouge in the apron but the metal condition looks good.
Will be coordinating with the owner on just how original we want to be but if metal finish is part of that equation then I feel like these will polish up manually well.
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Underside looks good only minor corrosion which I have come to expect on any metal parts of the era.
Inner cab is clean for MM.
MM is a game that from the factory has a slightly oversprayed floor.It is the only one that is consistently like this I can think of with the exception of CFTBL but that is due to the hologram window.
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That is pretty much it for evaluation..
It might surprise some how much work will go into this even with a nice starting platform.
But saving,perfecting and enhancing that platform is a bit more work in some ways than just stripping it all down so it should be a change of pace in terms of restore threads.
Quoted from lb1:I'm really looking forward to see the cabinet restoration. I just can't see how anyone could replicate the tiny dots patterns and blend the restored areas with the original ones but I'm sure Chris will work his magic again.
Yeah there is never a perfect solution to that problem but I have had to address it many times before. I remember doing these before you could even get decals and they were trashed so it is just like a step back to the old days.
All playfield guides are prepped so now I need to talk about the ramps before I break those down to get the guides off.
The original ramps look good and useable but due to the split design they will need to be fully torn down and will require new splits,flaps and decals.
I will see what I have for these ramps in my MM bin.
Almost never what I need.
Quoted from lb1:Came out beautiful. You're leaving the hole in the ramp? Not that it's that visible.
Thanks. There are more parts to go on like the flap and triangle so once built there will not be any unused holes in the ramp but tomorrow is another day.
Ready to wire the ramp. I will make my own color correct harness.
What that means is this.
This switch is wired with a plain white and plain green wire.
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It actually mates to this plug and coordinates on the switch matrix as Green/Blue and White/Orange.
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As a result I will rewire that switch with the correct combo that will be extended and ran through shrink tubing for a cleaner look.
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This will make for a nicer look and also make plug identification from underneath much easier and self explanatory.
I will repeat this on all switches flashers etc.
Quoted from Atari_Daze:I know the factory used clear, is that why you use it rather than heat shrink?
The clear is a bit tougher than shrink. The shrink is good for light duty protection but more so for cleaning up the appearance.
Ramp 1 is done.
I will install the flap prior to install because they can get tweaked better at that point. MM flaps can be a bit rigid.
Ramp is wrapped in paper then put in a large safe storage container.
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Apron prepped. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
My first thought on the peeling decal is to trim the peeling non art parts off then see how it fairs once cleared.
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The bare metal is etched for adhesion and corrosion concerns.
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I find the black etch to be a good match to the less than true black the factory used on the apron so as A result it can be cleared over as if it were the actual paint.
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Quoted from Plumonium:Were the decals new for the ramps or a re-use?
Those were new. Old ones had some marks.
New ramp decals are always my preference unless they can't be sourced then it is not to hard to reuse the old ones but they never seem quite as clear with the 3M transfer adhesive.
high_end_pins - sorry to chime in on your thread. You may be able to explain better or provide pro tips I am sure!
Nope sounds right to me.
Quoted from PanaPinResto:Chris, ever try a plotter to make masking stencils? I know your a pro with a razor blade but once you made the artwork you would never have to cut another starburst out. Is this something you've ever experimented with or thought about?
Yes I have thought about it many times and it would be nice but I am just so familiar with my own process that it seems easier at the time.
The other thing is there can be variation in the registration and with different companies making the same playfields at times inconsistencies so that is the main reason I do things manually.
It is definitely the hard way though.
I will deal with the plastics next.
At a glance all are in good useable shape. If not I have so many original spares I have no doubt replacements will not be needed.
Starting with this assembly I will clean polish and make minor appearance improvements.
Back to MM
Topside is pretty well torn down.
Gutting the head and restoring or refreshing as I go.
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Next item will be the dmd panel.
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The panel itself looks good just a bit chalky not black and the window is scratched up.
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Panel is blown dry and now ready to mask and refinish. image (resized).jpg
Script is carefully masked with killed off tape so it does not damage the chroming. It is a general masking not overly detailed because it doesn't need to be.
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Panel is lightly refinished just to freshen it up. You can see the masking is not fully covered with paint as an indicator.
This is a technique used to maintain the grainy texture of the panel and enhance it.
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Quoted from lb1:How do you remove the clips? There has to be a special tool. Or cut and replace?
I squeeze them with these Stanley pliers. Cut the ones that do not cooperate with that method and replace.
A guy I used to deal with about 10 years ago told me about the pliers and they work pretty well for it.
I will be pulling the playfield from the cabinet very shortly
One of the first things I want to do after unpopulating the topside is getting the bulk of the weight off the underside.
This is done by removing larger assemblies and coils.
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So I don't get overwhelmed later I will go through these now. They don't need a lot in general.
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I have plated brackets and all kinds of things I could easily use.
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It would honestly look nicer and last longer but at the same time this is not *that* type of restore so I will be more focused on adding practicality to the parts I go through to enhance it.
Polished bracket left side versus non polished original center versus nickel plated right in the interest of comparison.
I think it shows why I feel nickel is an appropriate way to refresh tarnished hardware when needed as it is very similar to original parts that are well polished.
Reassembled slings.
I use short sleeves in them so the screw driver easily clears the sleeve.
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Next will be color coordinating the wiring as well as possible to ease later assembly and any or all further troubleshooting.
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This is the left sling driven by the red/black and brown/red solenoid wires.
I will get as close to that as I can and repeat on the right side which is red/black and brown/orange.
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Troll assembly done the same way with extended color correct wiring that also have short protection in the switch portion.
There is a definite left and right assembly now and while that may seem trivial at this point during reassembly of the game itself it will make it even easier and in the future problems can be easily identified or isolated without a manual or much more than common sense.
Flipper assemblies are removed and will be rebuilt.
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Some lamp sockets are really nasty and will need to be desoldered thoroughly cleaned and put back into the harness because the wiring is frayed or poorly soldered in. image (resized).jpg
Lamp boards will be cleaned as well. These are not filthy or anything but they do have a film of dirt on them. image (resized).jpg
Just a few coils remain to be done.
From a assembly and identifying stand point these are particularly important on MM because they are the same assemblies but use different plugs.
This is why the color coordination is worth the extra effort.
Jets would be the first example of this.
All three are just your basic run of the mill jet bumper coil assemblies but two use a three pin plug and one uses a two pin. This makes the two pin important to note when being placed at rebuild.
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The one way gates are like this also.
The right uses a three pin plug.
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The left uses a two pin. Can be easy to forget or confuse so that is the idea behind doing this.
Solenoid and opto harness removed. image (resized).jpg
My preference for cleaning these when possible is to stretch them out on the sidewalk so I can really go over it.
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Things I am looking for in particular besides the standard cleaning of the wires themselves are
dirty sockets and connectors. image (resized).jpg
Harness washed. Now it will be hung up and blown dry with compressed air. image (resized).jpg
Harness is hung on a series of hooks I have placed to make sure it is spread out well and I can really blow each connector dry.
I do have both a sink and ultrasonic cleaner big enough for these harnesses but just don't find those methods as thorough as the one outlined mostly because it coils the harness up.
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Solenoid harness finished. image (resized).jpg
Now I will do the looms and sling arms. image (resized).jpg
These are not bad at all so just a quick run through the mini ultrasonic is good.
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Lamp boards were cleaned and dried.
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Nice original GE bulbs (have green or blue filliments)are looking good and will remain as long as they are working upon power up.
These bulbs seem more durable and better constructed than the typical replacements now sold so I don't just replace them unless needed or switching to LEDs.
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Next order of business is removing the lamp harness.
First desolder the GI at the jets.
Switch harness is loose.
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Things I am looking to do besides just clean it will be polish and straighten the sling switch blades.
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Polish the target plastic and rivets and replace those that are bent back. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
Quoted from ORF:First.
Thanks for sharing this walkthrough of a proper restoration.
Second.This looks really nice.
Wanted to "steal" the idea but have not managed to find a source for this black stand off's.
Would you share where you get those?
Thanks.
I made those by cleaning the originals,plastic priming them them painting them.
Usually paint one side wait an hour or two then flip and paint the other.
I keep a bin of them ready to go.
Almost there as far as stripping the playfield.
The biggest plus is what is off already is pretty much ready to go back on
Anyone can run around one of these with a cordless screwdriver for a couple hours and have it in a million pieces but that is the easy part. There is so much work ahead of that person it makes more sense in my experience to handle most aspects or parts when they are in your hands the first time.
Ready to remove the wire guides.
These are problematic because they are barbed and easily chip out as they are removed.
No way to avoid it entirely or on all removals because the crack usually happens when they are installed at the factory but it is removed with care to make certain it is only minimal and easily fixed.
I make these little notched boards to give both something to pry against and support the surrounding area of the wire guide.
Glue removed. Playfield is thoroughly cleaned.
There are many steps to this and different cleaners
It is the most essential part of any playfield restoration because any dirt or ball trail not removed will be locked in once cleared over and to fix that would require repainting.
Sometimes that is easy enough in say a solid color loop or something but if in really intricate art it is a pain.
The starbursts like pattern inserts cleaned up well with much effort and use of chemistry.
They may be perfectly fine as they are once cleared.
It is not to say that there isn't a single spot left in them but more to say out of five there are only two that even show anything and those two only have small minor spots.
That being the case repainting all five or leaving the minor spots in the two are the choice.
I have highlighted my two concerns. There are positives and negatives to either solution but honestly more negative for this particular restoration style if I repainting all five versus leaving them alone.
Quoted from lb1:On the burst inserts, no point in adding some yellow paint in the hairline cracks?
No unfortunately it isn't that easy. It would make it look worse.
All or nothing is about all you can do.
Quoted from NoMonkey:I have a harness that needs wiring corrections similar to this. Are you purchasing new, matching wire? If so, could you share your source? Thanks!
I purchase wire in large bulk that I think requires $1000 minimum order for custom color options but I can't remember right off hand.
Still working on my collection of that.
I have the full series of switch,GI and a good start on the solenoid but it is process getting not only the right color combos and gauges but also a good usable way to store and access it.
My next order should involve getting what I need to properly close out the solenoid combos and hopefully the feature lamp combinations.
Wiring removed and separated from cabinet. image (resized).jpg
Not much left in here.
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There is a light covering of surface rust on most of the blackened hardware. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
Green residue and corrosion on the power box metals.
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Ready to remove the head.
One thing I do not do is install the furniture glides on the bottom of the head.
I know the did it to store the heads at the factory but so I often I see this as the breaking point in the lock miter joint.
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I will repair that of course but won't risk cracking it again with new glides.
Head is off and empty.
First I will glue and screw it together in the weak spots which are the lower front left and right.
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I need to repaint some areas in this vicinity anyway so I will use the small trim style screws here and make little more work for myself.
It is a necessary evil because I don't want it breaking again.
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Excess wiped off.
Picture of the screws in place.
Hard to tell the scale of the screw head but it is smaller than 1/8 of an inch so the damage of installing the screw is about the equivalent of the many other nicks here and therein the cabinet and the location is a good one in terms of dealing with that.
Now that the art is in place I can work on blacking out and clearing the head. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
Obviously the face needs to be done also the top in terms of black.
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The back is a tougher call.
It could be saved but the screened text is crooked. Runs about 3/8 downhill image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
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This runs from the power box to the transformer.
They always have a grease like film in or on them.
I typically cut the clear sleeve off and zip tie then carefully route and secure.
It looks better.
There is a source for clear tubing that Is a bit thicker as another alternative.
My first strategy for this restore is going to be to get it as clean as possible.
Next is stripping the painted hardware.
Most of it is not painted but for the screws and nuts in place when they paint the cabinet it gets covered and stripping it prior to tumbling is best.
Replacing some of it is easy enough but the 1/4 fast screws are not so this stuff gets soaked in acetone.
The othe cabinet bolts that need to be refinished are placed in a wooden plate.
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Then sandblasted.
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Then metal etched. The metal etch needs to set a bit before being painted over so I will probably paint these when I paint the black on the head later. image (resized).jpg
Quoted from Richthofen:Curious; I ended up replacing the black cabinet bolts in my Taxi with new ones. Is this cheaper or is this just to keep the hardware the same as the hardware that came with the game?
Not really a cost consideration but this method provides a better finish is the main reason and gives the ability to choose gloss level.
Many replacement black bolts look more brown than black so they often need repainting anyway.
First step is cleaning the cabinet and removing glue residue.
I am going to leave the transformer t nuts in the back of the cabinet because they tend to do a bit of damage when removed and it varies from game to game if the are painted or bare so it won't be a stretch at all to do it this way and is being well thought out.
Cabinet is cleaned and it can really be evaluated.
The biggest issue is the flaking of the art on this lower right side.
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Other than that just a lot of little things which is even harder to deal with than one big thing more often than not.
In no particular order here are just a few.
The problem with MM,TOTAN AFM and a few other is when they do not have the vinyl coating under the screen print they are easily flaked ,chipped or scratched.
It also makes even masking them for repairs impossible without clearing first.
Cleared. Full gloss for now because it needs interior work and the black done. Might catch another detail here or there later as well once I can tape on it.
When all is done I will do the final clear on both the cab and head at the same time with the exact same clear so it is completely uniform.
Quoted from ninjabones:You ever think about recouping some costs and selling smaller kits to guys like me who'd like to have a broad variety of color combos, but only need small volumes and could never justify a big spool? I'm sure there'd be a bunch of guys interested in perhaps a couple yards each of the 20+ combos that you're amassed. Count me in if you're game
Yes I have and might visit that idea next time I order.
Quoted from Elicash:What kind of paint do you use for the cab? Do you just match color by eye?
I use automotive base and clear coats.
All colors are matched by eye.
Quoted from toyotaboy:You do amazing work Chris. As much as these restorations cost, I can't imagine the hours you spend on each project.
Thanks. It varies anywhere from 80 to 300 if I were to guess.
Quoted from zr11990:You are one talented man. I love my MM. I just rotated it back in the house and it is like I am rediscovering it. I wish I could make mine look new like you are doing to that one. I can swap PF s and replace parts but that is about it.
Do you mind if I ask what it costs to have the treatment done to that game?
Thank you .It is just something I know how to do and it has been great over the years to apply it to pinball restoration.
I am not sure yet what it cost to do this game. On a game like this it is best to figure that out once it is nearing completion.
Without a doubt it will be lighter in the parts cost and a little heavier on the labor side for obvious reasons I hope.
Ballpark guess would be $6500 to $7500.
Quoted from lb1:Do you do any special preparation to the cabinet before clearing to prevent adhesion problems? From the look of it it seems like there no scuffing involved.
Yes it is chemically treated like plastic and only lightly scuffed because to do anything more as far as sanding goes quickly ruins the art.
After that it is sprayed with adhesion promoter.
Sides are being sanded.
What I want to do is level the repairs and break through as little as possible during that process.
Just for example would be the damage from side rail removal. This will be covered but still there is an attempt to minimize it and use it as a guide of sorts for how far I can sand.
Sanding of the outside is complete.
Next I will make any minor repairs to either the outer or inner lower cabinet.
I will not sand the inner floor clean in order to keep with the spirit of originality for this particular project. I will clean it and do the sides.
Sanding the underside as clean as possible but avoiding the 56 from the factory.
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I like to put a slight bevel on the side edges. Nothing extreme but they usually have little nicks here or there and that cleans it up and prevents it from happening again.
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Playfield is now sanded clean and I can start t nutting as well as other parts of reassembly.
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All hardware was either hand or machine polished. Smaller parts were then tumbled as well including the t nuts.
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I like to tumble them as little assemblies. It makes for less picking out of media and sorting later.
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On MM there is one lone small case t nut and that goes here to clear the catapult mech screw.
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Wire guides go in next. I like to do that first and on a solid surface while the playfield can still lay flat.
Once I put the jet bumper nails in I can't do that.
Also of note this playfield was final cleared about a week ago. It is by design that I assemble at this stage of cure or as close to as possible.
The coating is more flexible at this point so things like the hammering of the guides etc is far less likely to chip it.
The playfield rebuild begins.
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One thing I have to do before installing the jet bumper bodies and sockets is retouch the replacement lamp sockets with solder.
These are problematic and easily break at the stamped part. Usually after it is staples soldered to the wiring and you are putting a bulb in it so I know just to go ahead and solder it prior to install at this point. image (resized).jpg
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Quoted from zr11990:You know, you do these threads all the time or someone else shows the work you are doing on their pin. One would think that it would get boring but it never does. I enjoy watching the process of a beater pin turn into a work of art. I would rather have this treatment done to my MM than a new PF and decals. Keep up the good work.
Thanks. There is no shortage of projects here so it can be tough to figure out which to show but I try to highlight different styles or approaches when and where I can.
Quoted from chrisnack:Is that an original castle or has it been custom painted? Just looks nothing like the one on my MMr, looks more like the ones i see advertised on the forums.
Original castle with just a few subtle details highlighted like the chains and ladder.
Quoted from spinal:Great work - a pleasure to read your posts!
Anyway, I was wondering if and where you use loctite?
I'm just doing a flipper rebuild on my MM and manual says to apply to Flipper Stop Assembly, the Solenoid Bracket, and the Flipper Bushing. Do you apply to these locations? Any other places in MM?
(thanks)
I do not but I could definitely see the benefit of it for games on location especially when these games were made.
My fear is that it can make parts very difficult to remove in the future.
The hardware on these parts have lock washers and that is usually fine for well monitored use like a home setting or attentive operator.
There are different grades of loctite though so the mildest form might be a good compromise.
I won't get carried away with nickel plated parts as I mentioned earlier but in the case of a couple parts I find the use of them appropriate even on this type of restore.
One of those parts will be the lockbar receiver.
I could easily polish the existing one but they tend to still tarnish over time so I will swap it for a plated part.
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Felt is placed to ease glass install and give some protection for resting the playfield in the service position.
Quoted from FatPanda:I like the felt idea! Might have to steal that one.
Please do. I am pretty sure it was already stolen years ago 
Cabinet is now wired and loomed in the factory style just a bit neater.
Normally I would prefer to eliminate the DBV wiring and use black looms for a cleaner look but for the hundredth time I am trying to strike a balance on this one.
New troll targets are being installed
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I do not use the reinforced version on MM
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because I find it only makes the well known air balls of the game worse
I do like the denser black foam though so that is used. image (resized).jpg
Getting a start on the lamp harness but it will be a bit more involved than the switch harness.
What I will do is remove all generic yellow jumper wires and then replace them with color correct wire.
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I will also add short protection in this area where the GI leg can come in contact with the sling switch
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GI in this section reworked with protections and color correct wire.
Quoted from robotron911:With all of the vibrations during play, you don't see the tubing ever slide off the wiring connections? I noticed on one area you had a zip tie to prevent this but that was the only area I noticed it. Please let me know your thoughts, as I this is a great idea and I will use it on my first playfield teardown.
It depends on how tight the tubing is as to whether you should zip tie or not.
The tubing on the switches is sized so that it has to be pressed over the connections with a slight degree of force so it will not move on its own or through vibrations.
Quoted from colonel_caverne:Hi,
Maybe I missed it but I would be interested in how you clean and shine the brass ramps.
Great job. I can imagine all the time you spend to restore and clean this machine.
I just stripped out mine and I can find many good advise here when it will be time to built it.
What I like with the MM is you can remove most of the metal and heaviest mechs thanks to connectors.
Well thought.
The gold or brass plated parts on these games do not polish well. That normally removes the finish so I have them replated.
When routing the wires I really try to consider any possible problem that could pop up because after restoring do many games you can't help but notice the flaws in the way wires were managed.
This is one of those flaws.
Running these wires in front of the plunger can lead to smashed wires or worse.
Running them behind helps but only if you can insure they stay there.
Playfield is wired and built to a stage that is needed prior to placing back in the cabinet.
The resting brackets are the other item I feel regardless of the style of restoration benefit most from nickel plating because the oil from hands and handling easily tarnish them long term.
Quoted from jawjaw:I don't get how reinforced targets cause more airballs. They certainly tamed air balls in my Shadow but that is a different game.
Thanks for documenting the restoration. I just love these kinds of thread. All the attention to detail like the color matching wiring, tubes on wire ends, and felt is incredible. It must be so nice to be the owner of a pin like that.
Reinforced targets work well on many games I use them on TZ slots,TOM and others.
The reason I do not like them on MM is because the troll targets create air balls already and when you put a target in there with even less give it just amplifies it.
On this game I like to angle the targets down a bit and that is also tougher with the reinforced targets.
Quoted from lb1:So the gold color of the 3/8" is just to avoid confusion with the longer 1/2"?
Yes that is something they did for manufacturing/assembling purposes I believe.
Quoted from lb1:Also, do you ever use felt strips on the side of the playfield to limit the risk of scratching the cabinet inner sides? Most used machines have scratches or even gauges of some sort and it seems like an area that would need protection.
Sometimes it depends on a lot of different things but on MM I do not because it only runs one wooden rail on the right side and the ball guide that runs on the left is inset.
Damsel ramp is in place the original dragon and wings will be used
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Repro wings on the left original on the right. Let's face it they are not even close although I would say they do match the dragon fairly well.
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I have reinforced the original wings so they can be used.
I do this by hot gluing a clear washer to the inner base. image (resized).jpg
Quoted from tonycip:WoW. Great job . You Have some mad skills!. (I think you may have missed my earlier post) Thanks
I could watch about 100 more of these restores. What's next?
Thanks.
I use crushed walnut shells. You can get them at a pet store they are commonly used for lizard bedding and other things.
The key is the additive. Flitz makes one that works well.
Most of the time I clean and polish the parts manually first then tumble for 24 hours.
Quoted from zr11990:BRANDING? That is the shit right there. That is funny as hell and amazing. I guess that is a good way to distinguish your work from someone else's restore. Beautiful work Chris. Keep these coming.
You don't have one of these for a CC do you? I would also like to see one for TZ. Aaaand a Earthshaker.
Those can all be easily found here
http://christopherhutchins.com/gallery/Examples-of-the-restoration-process
Quoted from lb1:There are some real gems in there. This one for instance - http://christopherhutchins.com/gallery/album60/107_G
Thanks for making these available Chris.
Hard to believe that was 10 years ago.
Quoted from jsa:Always amazed an impressed with your work, Chris. It really inspired us (my son and I) to do some of our own work emulating some of your techniques. The only problem is that now that we finished one, we could never sell or trade it away.
I guess you get to the point where you don't get too attached to these pins!
Thank you. I think that is awesome!
My kids hate pinball I think?They associate it with work.
To me there is a reward in the process so I am fairly satisfied with that. I also feel good about the new life given to many of these rougher games that are salvaged in the process.
No chance to sit back and enjoy the completion of one project it is always on to another.
Broke the seal today on another preservation style job with this NOB BK.
Quoted from jwilson:Yes please.
I'm curious to see what you do with a NIB game.
It is quickly reminding me of working on a used one.
Quoted from Stokoloog:Looking forward to follow your next restoration!
Would appreciate if you could react on my question. Thanks in advance.
I did reuse the original moat. It was in good shape for the most part.
The repro moats are hit and miss because a few different people have made them over the years some better than others.
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Matthews, NC
