Matthews, NC
On MM there is one lone small case t nut and that goes here to clear the catapult mech screw.
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(Topic ID: 179069)
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Medieval Madness
Williams, 1997
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Wire guides go in next. I like to do that first and on a solid surface while the playfield can still lay flat.
Once I put the jet bumper nails in I can't do that.
Also of note this playfield was final cleared about a week ago. It is by design that I assemble at this stage of cure or as close to as possible.
The coating is more flexible at this point so things like the hammering of the guides etc is far less likely to chip it.
The playfield rebuild begins.
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One thing I have to do before installing the jet bumper bodies and sockets is retouch the replacement lamp sockets with solder.
These are problematic and easily break at the stamped part. Usually after it is staples soldered to the wiring and you are putting a bulb in it so I know just to go ahead and solder it prior to install at this point. image (resized).jpg
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What's with the little extra holes drilled through the playfield near the bottom under the apron? My White Water has those too. Was there a reason they did these?
Quoted from High_End_Pins:The playfield rebuild begins.
One thing I have to do before installing the jet bumper bodies and sockets is retouch the replacement lamp sockets with solder.
These are problematic and easily break at the stamped part. Usually after it is staples soldered to the wiring and you are putting a bulb in it so I know just to go ahead and solder it prior to install at this point.
I have run into this with these new style pop pumper sockets. I have been soldering them before installation for a while now. They are a cheap, low quality part.
You know, you do these threads all the time or someone else shows the work you are doing on their pin. One would think that it would get boring but it never does. I enjoy watching the process of a beater pin turn into a work of art. I would rather have this treatment done to my MM than a new PF and decals. Keep up the good work.
Quoted from zr11990:You know, you do these threads all the time or someone else shows the work you are doing on their pin. One would think that it would get boring but it never does. I enjoy watching the process of a beater pin turn into a work of art. I would rather have this treatment done to my MM than a new PF and decals. Keep up the good work.
Thanks. There is no shortage of projects here so it can be tough to figure out which to show but I try to highlight different styles or approaches when and where I can.
Quoted from chrisnack:Is that an original castle or has it been custom painted? Just looks nothing like the one on my MMr, looks more like the ones i see advertised on the forums.
Original castle with just a few subtle details highlighted like the chains and ladder.
Quoted from spinal:Great work - a pleasure to read your posts!
Anyway, I was wondering if and where you use loctite?
I'm just doing a flipper rebuild on my MM and manual says to apply to Flipper Stop Assembly, the Solenoid Bracket, and the Flipper Bushing. Do you apply to these locations? Any other places in MM?
(thanks)
I do not but I could definitely see the benefit of it for games on location especially when these games were made.
My fear is that it can make parts very difficult to remove in the future.
The hardware on these parts have lock washers and that is usually fine for well monitored use like a home setting or attentive operator.
There are different grades of loctite though so the mildest form might be a good compromise.
Are ball guides hard to remake? I was curious if you ever had to remake them for any reason.
Also I wondered if it would be easier to push the ball guides through and clip off the barb rather than deal with the playfield chipping. I'm sure it isn't though. 
I've always been intimidated by pulling ball guides and have yet to do it.
Quoted from dmbjunky:Also I wondered if it would be easier to push the ball guides through and clip off the barb rather than deal with the playfield chipping. I'm sure it isn't though.
I've always been intimidated by pulling ball guides and have yet to do it.
I'm pretty sure many guides don't have through and through holes. Even if they have, you'd have to clip the top and pushing the remaining piece through would damage the back so you'd have the potential of having the guide sink over time. Not to mention that you've also destroyed the guide.
If you put tons of protection when you pull them up, gently pull, and go back and forth between the two sides, you should be ok.
I won't get carried away with nickel plated parts as I mentioned earlier but in the case of a couple parts I find the use of them appropriate even on this type of restore.
One of those parts will be the lockbar receiver.
I could easily polish the existing one but they tend to still tarnish over time so I will swap it for a plated part.
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Felt is placed to ease glass install and give some protection for resting the playfield in the service position.
Quoted from FatPanda:I like the felt idea! Might have to steal that one.
Please do. I am pretty sure it was already stolen years ago 
Cabinet is now wired and loomed in the factory style just a bit neater.
Normally I would prefer to eliminate the DBV wiring and use black looms for a cleaner look but for the hundredth time I am trying to strike a balance on this one.
New troll targets are being installed
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I do not use the reinforced version on MM
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because I find it only makes the well known air balls of the game worse
I do like the denser black foam though so that is used. image (resized).jpg
Getting a start on the lamp harness but it will be a bit more involved than the switch harness.
What I will do is remove all generic yellow jumper wires and then replace them with color correct wire.
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I will also add short protection in this area where the GI leg can come in contact with the sling switch
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GI in this section reworked with protections and color correct wire.
With all of the vibrations during play, you don't see the tubing ever slide off the wiring connections? I noticed on one area you had a zip tie to prevent this but that was the only area I noticed it. Please let me know your thoughts, as I this is a great idea and I will use it on my first playfield teardown.
Biscarrosse
Hi,
Maybe I missed it but I would be interested in how you clean and shine the brass ramps.
Great job. I can imagine all the time you spend to restore and clean this machine.
I just stripped out mine and I can find many good advise here when it will be time to built it.
What I like with the MM is you can remove most of the metal and heaviest mechs thanks to connectors.
Well thought.
Quoted from robotron911:With all of the vibrations during play, you don't see the tubing ever slide off the wiring connections? I noticed on one area you had a zip tie to prevent this but that was the only area I noticed it. Please let me know your thoughts, as I this is a great idea and I will use it on my first playfield teardown.
It depends on how tight the tubing is as to whether you should zip tie or not.
The tubing on the switches is sized so that it has to be pressed over the connections with a slight degree of force so it will not move on its own or through vibrations.
Quoted from colonel_caverne:Hi,
Maybe I missed it but I would be interested in how you clean and shine the brass ramps.
Great job. I can imagine all the time you spend to restore and clean this machine.
I just stripped out mine and I can find many good advise here when it will be time to built it.
What I like with the MM is you can remove most of the metal and heaviest mechs thanks to connectors.
Well thought.
The gold or brass plated parts on these games do not polish well. That normally removes the finish so I have them replated.
When routing the wires I really try to consider any possible problem that could pop up because after restoring do many games you can't help but notice the flaws in the way wires were managed.
This is one of those flaws.
Running these wires in front of the plunger can lead to smashed wires or worse.
Running them behind helps but only if you can insure they stay there.
Playfield is wired and built to a stage that is needed prior to placing back in the cabinet.
The resting brackets are the other item I feel regardless of the style of restoration benefit most from nickel plating because the oil from hands and handling easily tarnish them long term.
Impressive restoration! I wonder if you reuse the original green moat. I ordered a replacement that was thinner material than the cracked original. I am hesitating to use the new one because it feels less robust.
I don't get how reinforced targets cause more airballs. They certainly tamed air balls in my Shadow but that is a different game.
Thanks for documenting the restoration. I just love these kinds of thread. All the attention to detail like the color matching wiring, tubes on wire ends, and felt is incredible. It must be so nice to be the owner of a pin like that.
Quoted from jawjaw:I don't get how reinforced targets cause more airballs. They certainly tamed air balls in my Shadow but that is a different game.
Thanks for documenting the restoration. I just love these kinds of thread. All the attention to detail like the color matching wiring, tubes on wire ends, and felt is incredible. It must be so nice to be the owner of a pin like that.
Reinforced targets work well on many games I use them on TZ slots,TOM and others.
The reason I do not like them on MM is because the troll targets create air balls already and when you put a target in there with even less give it just amplifies it.
On this game I like to angle the targets down a bit and that is also tougher with the reinforced targets.
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