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(Topic ID: 179069)

HEP Restores an original MM the original way

By High_End_Pins

7 years ago

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344 posts
68 Pinsiders participating
Latest reply 6 years ago by High_End_Pins
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Medieval Madness Williams, 1997

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There are 344 posts in this topic. You are on page 5 of 7.

0

#201 6 years ago

ninjabones

Pinside member

12y 51,400 483 5

OP
Quoted from High_End_Pins:
I purchase wire in large bulk that I think requires $1000 minimum order for custom color options but I can't remember right off hand.
Still working on my collection of that.
I have the full series of switch,GI and a good start on the solenoid but it is process getting not only the right color combos and gauges but also a good usable way to store and access it.
My next order should involve getting what I need to properly close out the solenoid combos and hopefully the feature lamp combinations.

You ever think about recouping some costs and selling smaller kits to guys like me who'd like to have a broad variety of color combos, but only need small volumes and could never justify a big spool? I'm sure there'd be a bunch of guys interested in perhaps a couple yards each of the 20+ combos that you're amassed. Count me in if you're game

3

#202 6 years ago

High_End_Pins

12y 142K 12,518

First step is cleaning the cabinet and removing glue residue.
I am going to leave the transformer t nuts in the back of the cabinet because they tend to do a bit of damage when removed and it varies from game to game if the are painted or bare so it won't be a stretch at all to do it this way and is being well thought out.

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#203 6 years ago

High_End_Pins

12y 142K 12,518

Cabinet is cleaned and it can really be evaluated.
The biggest issue is the flaking of the art on this lower right side.
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Other than that just a lot of little things which is even harder to deal with than one big thing more often than not.
In no particular order here are just a few.
The problem with MM,TOTAN AFM and a few other is when they do not have the vinyl coating under the screen print they are easily flaked ,chipped or scratched.
It also makes even masking them for repairs impossible without clearing first.

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#204 6 years ago

High_End_Pins

12y 142K 12,518

Just like the head I start with the lightest color blue.

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#205 6 years ago

High_End_Pins

12y 142K 12,518

Then two darker shades The lower has a bit of purple fade so that is considered and implemented.
Now I will start dialing in the shades and art.

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#206 6 years ago

High_End_Pins

12y 142K 12,518

Now the darker shades and detail work with those.
There is no true straight black on the art portion.

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#207 6 years ago

High_End_Pins

12y 142K 12,518

Doing the red ,yellow and brown now.
White will be last and all this is mostly preliminary before I clear since I cannot mask any part of it off right now.

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#208 6 years ago

High_End_Pins

12y 142K 12,518

Browns and reds done. Just white and minor details left for the initial pass on this.
The idea is to cover the obvious and clear then go from there once cured.

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2

#209 6 years ago

High_End_Pins

12y 142K 12,518

Ready to clear.

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#210 6 years ago

High_End_Pins

12y 142K 12,518

Cleared. Full gloss for now because it needs interior work and the black done. Might catch another detail here or there later as well once I can tape on it.
When all is done I will do the final clear on both the cab and head at the same time with the exact same clear so it is completely uniform.

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0

#211 6 years ago

Elicash

Pinside member

9y 55,900 864 8

What kind of paint do you use for the cab? Do you just match color by eye?

0

#212 6 years ago

toyotaboy

12y 184K 11,929 3 14

You do amazing work Chris. As much as these restorations cost, I can't imagine the hours you spend on each project.

0

#213 6 years ago

High_End_Pins

12y 142K 12,518

Quoted from ninjabones:
You ever think about recouping some costs and selling smaller kits to guys like me who'd like to have a broad variety of color combos, but only need small volumes and could never justify a big spool? I'm sure there'd be a bunch of guys interested in perhaps a couple yards each of the 20+ combos that you're amassed. Count me in if you're game

Yes I have and might visit that idea next time I order.

0

#214 6 years ago

High_End_Pins

12y 142K 12,518

Quoted from Elicash:
What kind of paint do you use for the cab? Do you just match color by eye?

I use automotive base and clear coats.
All colors are matched by eye.

0

#215 6 years ago

High_End_Pins

12y 142K 12,518

Quoted from toyotaboy:
You do amazing work Chris. As much as these restorations cost, I can't imagine the hours you spend on each project.

Thanks. It varies anywhere from 80 to 300 if I were to guess.

0

#216 6 years ago

zr11990

Pinside member

14y 87,050 6,656 9

You are one talented man. I love my MM. I just rotated it back in the house and it is like I am rediscovering it. I wish I could make mine look new like you are doing to that one. I can swap PF s and replace parts but that is about it.
Do you mind if I ask what it costs to have the treatment done to that game?

2

#217 6 years ago

High_End_Pins

12y 142K 12,518

Quoted from zr11990:
You are one talented man. I love my MM. I just rotated it back in the house and it is like I am rediscovering it. I wish I could make mine look new like you are doing to that one. I can swap PF s and replace parts but that is about it.
Do you mind if I ask what it costs to have the treatment done to that game?

Thank you .It is just something I know how to do and it has been great over the years to apply it to pinball restoration.

I am not sure yet what it cost to do this game. On a game like this it is best to figure that out once it is nearing completion.

Without a doubt it will be lighter in the parts cost and a little heavier on the labor side for obvious reasons I hope.

Ballpark guess would be $6500 to $7500.

0

#218 6 years ago

lb1

Pinside member

11y 66,800 1,242 1

Do you do any special preparation to the cabinet before clearing to prevent adhesion problems? From the look of it it seems like there no scuffing involved.

0

#219 6 years ago

High_End_Pins

12y 142K 12,518

Quoted from lb1:
Do you do any special preparation to the cabinet before clearing to prevent adhesion problems? From the look of it it seems like there no scuffing involved.

Yes it is chemically treated like plastic and only lightly scuffed because to do anything more as far as sanding goes quickly ruins the art.
After that it is sprayed with adhesion promoter.

0

#220 6 years ago

sohchx

Pinside member

9y 87,050 2,259 76

Excellent!! Thanks a ton for this thread. I have wondered for a good while how I should address the cracks in the bursts on my playfield. Other than that it's in excellent shape but the cracks bug me every time that I play it.

0

#221 6 years ago

Boat

7y 107K 1,467 4 92 1

Awesome. that clear coat on the cabinet is sharp!

2

#222 6 years ago

High_End_Pins

12y 142K 12,518

Cabinet and head are well dried and can now be sanded and reworked prior to the final repaints and clear.
First I will start prepping the lower cabinet beginning with sanding the bottom clean.

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2

#223 6 years ago

High_End_Pins

12y 142K 12,518

Sanded clean.
Now I can sand the sides.

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2

#224 6 years ago

High_End_Pins

12y 142K 12,518

Sides are being sanded.
What I want to do is level the repairs and break through as little as possible during that process.
Just for example would be the damage from side rail removal. This will be covered but still there is an attempt to minimize it and use it as a guide of sorts for how far I can sand.

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2

#225 6 years ago

High_End_Pins

12y 142K 12,518

Sanding of the outside is complete.
Next I will make any minor repairs to either the outer or inner lower cabinet.
I will not sand the inner floor clean in order to keep with the spirit of originality for this particular project. I will clean it and do the sides.

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2

#226 6 years ago

High_End_Pins

12y 142K 12,518

Repairs are being made.
I am filling the rougher grain on the interior and nail holes as well as the previous loom screw holes and staple marks so I redo that stuff more neatly during reassembly.

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0

#227 6 years ago

chrisnack

Pinside member

8y 70,150 766 3 17

OP
Quoted from High_End_Pins:
Plastic set is done and carefully stored
Castle was cleaned and just lightly detailed nothing over the top.
Swinging door required replacement.

Is that an original castle or has it been custom painted? Just looks nothing like the one on my MMr, looks more like the ones i see advertised on the forums.

2

#228 6 years ago

High_End_Pins

12y 142K 12,518

Filling Repairs are complete

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2

#229 6 years ago

High_End_Pins

12y 142K 12,518

Cabinet cleaned now masked to prime the straight black sections.

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2

#230 6 years ago

High_End_Pins

12y 142K 12,518

Now primed then guide coated.

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#231 6 years ago

High_End_Pins

12y 142K 12,518

Primer is sanded and the cabinet is being prepped for black base.

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#232 6 years ago

High_End_Pins

12y 142K 12,518

Blacked out in the original overspray pattern.
Head done once more also.

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#233 6 years ago

High_End_Pins

12y 142K 12,518

Unmasked from black work.
I can now tackle the last minute detail work from the previous sanding process.

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#234 6 years ago

High_End_Pins

12y 142K 12,518

Final repaints are done and both the cabinet as head are ready for what should be the final clear.

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#235 6 years ago

High_End_Pins

12y 142K 12,518

Final clear applied. It is a matte clear but will not gloss down until dry.

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#236 6 years ago

High_End_Pins

12y 142K 12,518

Playfield sanded and ready to polish.

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3

#237 6 years ago

High_End_Pins

12y 142K 12,518

Cabinet has dried overnight and can now be screened with the warning text.

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3

#238 6 years ago

High_End_Pins

12y 142K 12,518

I have a special jig I made to make my screen placement quick and easy.
Covered with felt for a soft touch to the repainted surface.

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5

#239 6 years ago

High_End_Pins

12y 142K 12,518

Most people use way too much ink.
I use a spoonful.

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#240 6 years ago

High_End_Pins

12y 142K 12,518

Clean up is quick and easy.

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4

#241 6 years ago

High_End_Pins

12y 142K 12,518

Head is now ready to put into the assembly room

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#242 6 years ago

High_End_Pins

12y 142K 12,518

Lower is now in reassembly area as well.
Ground braid is the next step for that.

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3

#243 6 years ago

High_End_Pins

12y 142K 12,518

Polishing playfield.

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#244 6 years ago

High_End_Pins

12y 142K 12,518

Messy job so I wear a trash bag.

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2

#245 6 years ago

FatPanda

Pinside member

7y 141K 7,174 32

Continually impressed each step of the way. Wow!

4

#246 6 years ago

High_End_Pins

12y 142K 12,518

Playfield polished. I will clean the holes out sand the underside but preserve any factory markings then t nut.

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#247 6 years ago

High_End_Pins

12y 142K 12,518

I have a key chain of brushes so I can easily change to appropriate sizes while doing the hole clean outs.
I only go from the back when the playfield is final polished because it can be sketchy or risky from the other side.

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#248 6 years ago

spinal

Pinside member

7y 69,150 1,537

Great work - a pleasure to read your posts!

Anyway, I was wondering if and where you use loctite?

I'm just doing a flipper rebuild on my MM and manual says to apply to Flipper Stop Assembly, the Solenoid Bracket, and the Flipper Bushing. Do you apply to these locations? Any other places in MM?

(thanks)

4

#249 6 years ago

High_End_Pins

12y 142K 12,518

Sanding the underside as clean as possible but avoiding the 56 from the factory.
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I like to put a slight bevel on the side edges. Nothing extreme but they usually have little nicks here or there and that cleans it up and prevents it from happening again.
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#250 6 years ago

High_End_Pins

12y 142K 12,518

Playfield is now sanded clean and I can start t nutting as well as other parts of reassembly.
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All hardware was either hand or machine polished. Smaller parts were then tumbled as well including the t nuts.
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I like to tumble them as little assemblies. It makes for less picking out of media and sorting later.
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