(Topic ID: 179069)

HEP Restores an original MM the original way


By High_End_Pins

3 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 344 posts
  • 68 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by High_End_Pins
  • Topic is favorited by 116 Pinsiders

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There are 344 posts in this topic. You are on page 4 of 7.
#151 2 years ago

Glued then pilot drilled and screwed.
A small pocket was made for the screw head so it can be filled over.
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#152 2 years ago

Excess wiped off.
Picture of the screws in place.
Hard to tell the scale of the screw head but it is smaller than 1/8 of an inch so the damage of installing the screw is about the equivalent of the many other nicks here and therein the cabinet and the location is a good one in terms of dealing with that.

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#153 2 years ago

Face is sanded and prepped for repair.

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#154 2 years ago

Face and small screw holes filled.

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#155 2 years ago

Face repairs complete.

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#156 2 years ago

Head is cleaned and I can start addressing some of the other repairs needed.

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#157 2 years ago

First the brightest blue is airbrushed on.

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#158 2 years ago

Now a darker blue.

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#159 2 years ago

Now a bluish black

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#160 2 years ago

Now almost but not quite straight black.

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#161 2 years ago

Now that the art is in place I can work on blacking out and clearing the head. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

Obviously the face needs to be done also the top in terms of black.
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The back is a tougher call.
It could be saved but the screened text is crooked. Runs about 3/8 downhill image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
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#162 2 years ago

If I do the back entirely then I will likely address the gaps in the construction. Some are pretty large.

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There is also some slight swelling from moisture. This may have been in the material prior to build or popped up later in the games life.
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#163 2 years ago

This airbrushing thing you did was pure magic.

#164 2 years ago

Back is stripped and I am shoring up the gaps.
My goal is not to so much eliminate them but more to have some consistency.
Before they were huge on one side and almost invisible on the other.

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#165 2 years ago

Repairs to back complete.
As a result I am going to need to prime the entire head with the exception of the sides of course.

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#166 2 years ago

Head masked ready to prime.
Trying to save the original laminated fuse chart decal in the head if possible. If not not a deal breaker but worth a try.

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#167 2 years ago

Primed.

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#168 2 years ago

Guide-coated lightly. .
Will sand and paint the black tomorrow then clear it in a an appropriate gloss level clear. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

Unmasked so the edges do not bridge.
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#171 2 years ago

Wow !!

#172 2 years ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

I purchase wire in large bulk that I think requires $1000 minimum order for custom color options but I can't remember right off hand.
Still working on my collection of that.
I have the full series of switch,GI and a good start on the solenoid but it is process getting not only the right color combos and gauges but also a good usable way to store and access it.
My next order should involve getting what I need to properly close out the solenoid combos and hopefully the feature lamp combinations.

https://www.anixter.com is another option for wire if you need it. The custom colors for pinball that I looked up are available, but you need to call and ask about them. Not listed online.

#173 2 years ago

Bayareaamusements.com also sells the two-color wire (10 foot lengths I think).

#174 2 years ago

Ready to start dealing with the cabinet wiring and lower now.

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#175 2 years ago

This runs from the power box to the transformer.
They always have a grease like film in or on them.
I typically cut the clear sleeve off and zip tie then carefully route and secure.
It looks better.
There is a source for clear tubing that Is a bit thicker as another alternative.
My first strategy for this restore is going to be to get it as clean as possible.

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#176 2 years ago

Tubing is removed.

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#177 2 years ago

Tubing soaked in bleche wite.

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#178 2 years ago

Cleaning the tubing was a short waste of time.
Turns out those spots are in the tubing itself
Not on the inside or outside but in the material.
I will zip tie the cabling up for now and possible revisit it later during reassembly.

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#179 2 years ago

Next is stripping the painted hardware.
Most of it is not painted but for the screws and nuts in place when they paint the cabinet it gets covered and stripping it prior to tumbling is best.
Replacing some of it is easy enough but the 1/4 fast screws are not so this stuff gets soaked in acetone.

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#180 2 years ago

The othe cabinet bolts that need to be refinished are placed in a wooden plate.
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Then sandblasted.
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Then metal etched. The metal etch needs to set a bit before being painted over so I will probably paint these when I paint the black on the head later. image (resized).jpg

#181 2 years ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

The othe cabinet bolts that need to be refinished are placed in a wooden plate.

Then sandblasted.

Then metal etched. The metal etch needs to set a bit before being painted over so I will probably paint these when I paint the black on the head later.

Curious; I ended up replacing the black cabinet bolts in my Taxi with new ones. Is this cheaper or is this just to keep the hardware the same as the hardware that came with the game?

#182 2 years ago
Quoted from Richthofen:

Curious; I ended up replacing the black cabinet bolts in my Taxi with new ones. Is this cheaper or is this just to keep the hardware the same as the hardware that came with the game?

Not really a cost consideration but this method provides a better finish is the main reason and gives the ability to choose gloss level.
Many replacement black bolts look more brown than black so they often need repainting anyway.

#183 2 years ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

Replacing some of it is easy enough but the 1/4 fast screws are not so this stuff gets soaked in acetone.

I searched for these all over the place and could never found new ones.

#184 2 years ago

Sanding the head to be based in black.

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#185 2 years ago

Prepping the playfield for the minor repaints and most likely final clear as well

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#186 2 years ago

Head is sanded and just needs to be wiped down and masked off.

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#187 2 years ago

Playfield is sanded and there are just a couple things to address.
Some ground in dirt at the Merlin hole.
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Slight chipping at the trough entrance.
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Minor discoloration at a few switch slots.
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#188 2 years ago

How in the hell do you remember where everything goes? I have to take pictures of the simplest things and I still have trouble putting it back together.

#189 2 years ago

Minor bare wood reworking done
A slightly darker shade is used for the inner portion of the Merlin hole to give a little more definition.
My aim is not to overdo this one and make sure I catch the things that are most important.

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#190 2 years ago

Unmasked.

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#191 2 years ago

Playfield is ready to clear again.
Will finish the head then clear the pair although the head will get a lower gloss final coat.

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#192 2 years ago

Head masked and based in black.
Bolts as well.

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#193 2 years ago

Head now ready to clear.

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#194 2 years ago

Drool

#195 2 years ago

AMAZING!

......I keep seeing the FIRE! back there.... thread on that one coming soon??

#196 2 years ago

Playfield cleared again.

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#197 2 years ago

Head and bolts cleared with a matte style clear. Glossy while wet less so once dry.
Screw hole repairs look promising.

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#198 2 years ago

Face repairs also look promising.

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#199 2 years ago

Lower gutted and heading to paint.

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There are 344 posts in this topic. You are on page 4 of 7.

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