(Topic ID: 179069)

HEP Restores an original MM the original way


By High_End_Pins

2 years ago



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  • 344 posts
  • 68 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by High_End_Pins
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There are 344 posts in this topic. You are on page 3 of 7.
#101 2 years ago

Reassembled slings.
I use short sleeves in them so the screw driver easily clears the sleeve.
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Next will be color coordinating the wiring as well as possible to ease later assembly and any or all further troubleshooting.
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This is the left sling driven by the red/black and brown/red solenoid wires.
I will get as close to that as I can and repeat on the right side which is red/black and brown/orange.
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#102 2 years ago

Wiring rework of the slings complete. The wires are slightly longer and coloring makes more sense than the generic violet and red combo.
Red /black for both with red solo for the left(brown/red) and orange for the right side(brown/orange). Makes sense right?

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#103 2 years ago

Troll assembly done the same way with extended color correct wiring that also have short protection in the switch portion.
There is a definite left and right assembly now and while that may seem trivial at this point during reassembly of the game itself it will make it even easier and in the future problems can be easily identified or isolated without a manual or much more than common sense.

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#104 2 years ago

Playfield is removed from cabinet for further teardown and wiring rework.

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#105 2 years ago

Flipper assemblies are removed and will be rebuilt.
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Some lamp sockets are really nasty and will need to be desoldered thoroughly cleaned and put back into the harness because the wiring is frayed or poorly soldered in. image (resized).jpg

Lamp boards will be cleaned as well. These are not filthy or anything but they do have a film of dirt on them. image (resized).jpg

#106 2 years ago

Damn, I just remove the shit from one PF and put it on the other and voila, I'm done. It aint that bad but I wouldn't even think about doing some of the stuff you do. I have a IPB purple PF that I need to swap over and I'll have to remember all the stuff you do.

#107 2 years ago

Flippers mechs are cleaned and prepped for rebuild.
In this case I will use a true factory rebuild kit.
It does not include things like bushings of the EOS but I will replace those as well.

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#108 2 years ago

Flippers rebuilt with original coils and factory kit.

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#109 2 years ago

I really enjoy seeing the true 'HEP' restoration process. Many thanks for taking the time to post.

#110 2 years ago

Just a few coils remain to be done.
From a assembly and identifying stand point these are particularly important on MM because they are the same assemblies but use different plugs.
This is why the color coordination is worth the extra effort.
Jets would be the first example of this.
All three are just your basic run of the mill jet bumper coil assemblies but two use a three pin plug and one uses a two pin. This makes the two pin important to note when being placed at rebuild.
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The one way gates are like this also.
The right uses a three pin plug.
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The left uses a two pin. Can be easy to forget or confuse so that is the idea behind doing this.

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#111 2 years ago

Gate mechs are tarnished and will be polished and rewired.

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#112 2 years ago

Gate mechs are done.
I put protective tubing on the coil leads of these because they are fragile and can be easily pulled,snagged or broken.

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#113 2 years ago

Now for the final coils to be done the jets.
This is another reason I redo all the coil wiring.
Very often these are poorly attached or frayed at the solder points.

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#114 2 years ago

All coils are done.
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Trash from that process.
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#115 2 years ago

Now I will remove the solenoid harness and clean it. The option harness will come off at this time also since it kind of piggybacks the solenoid harness.

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#116 2 years ago

Solenoid and opto harness removed. image (resized).jpg

My preference for cleaning these when possible is to stretch them out on the sidewalk so I can really go over it.
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Things I am looking for in particular besides the standard cleaning of the wires themselves are
dirty sockets and connectors. image (resized).jpg

#117 2 years ago

Harness washed. Now it will be hung up and blown dry with compressed air. image (resized).jpg

Harness is hung on a series of hooks I have placed to make sure it is spread out well and I can really blow each connector dry.

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I do have both a sink and ultrasonic cleaner big enough for these harnesses but just don't find those methods as thorough as the one outlined mostly because it coils the harness up.
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#118 2 years ago

How'd you wash it?

#119 2 years ago

Harness now dry.
I will wipe each socket and connector off with acetone just to catch any remaining stubborn grease.

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#120 2 years ago

Solenoid harness finished. image (resized).jpg
Now I will do the looms and sling arms. image (resized).jpg
These are not bad at all so just a quick run through the mini ultrasonic is good.
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Lamp boards were cleaned and dried.
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Nice original GE bulbs (have green or blue filliments)are looking good and will remain as long as they are working upon power up.
These bulbs seem more durable and better constructed than the typical replacements now sold so I don't just replace them unless needed or switching to LEDs.
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#121 2 years ago

Next order of business is removing the lamp harness.
First desolder the GI at the jets.

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#122 2 years ago

Lamp harness is removed and will be cleaned the same way bimage (resized).jpg

Lots of green sockets to deal with.
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#123 2 years ago

Lamp harness done. Took a bit due to the sockets.
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Now the all important switch harness can be removed and cleaned. image (resized).jpg

#124 2 years ago

Switch harness is loose.
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Things I am looking to do besides just clean it will be polish and straighten the sling switch blades.
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Polish the target plastic and rivets and replace those that are bent back. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

#125 2 years ago

Yellow targets removed
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Sling switch blades straightened. image (resized).jpg

#126 2 years ago

First.
Thanks for sharing this walkthrough of a proper restoration.

Second.

Quoted from High_End_Pins:

Will be assembling with black stand offs
They just look better or at least fade into the background without any real hardware change.

This looks really nice.
Wanted to "steal" the idea but have not managed to find a source for this black stand off's.
Would you share where you get those?

#127 2 years ago

Switch harness done

I will install new yellow targets when I rebuild.

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#128 2 years ago
Quoted from ORF:

First.
Thanks for sharing this walkthrough of a proper restoration.
Second.

This looks really nice.
Wanted to "steal" the idea but have not managed to find a source for this black stand off's.
Would you share where you get those?

Thanks.
I made those by cleaning the originals,plastic priming them them painting them.
Usually paint one side wait an hour or two then flip and paint the other.
I keep a bin of them ready to go.

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#129 2 years ago

Almost there as far as stripping the playfield.
The biggest plus is what is off already is pretty much ready to go back on

Anyone can run around one of these with a cordless screwdriver for a couple hours and have it in a million pieces but that is the easy part. There is so much work ahead of that person it makes more sense in my experience to handle most aspects or parts when they are in your hands the first time.

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#130 2 years ago

Ready to remove the wire guides.
These are problematic because they are barbed and easily chip out as they are removed.
No way to avoid it entirely or on all removals because the crack usually happens when they are installed at the factory but it is removed with care to make certain it is only minimal and easily fixed.
I make these little notched boards to give both something to pry against and support the surrounding area of the wire guide.

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#131 2 years ago

Playfield is stripped complete both sides now ready to take into the paint section.

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#132 2 years ago

First thing remove Mylar sections.
Using freeze spray

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#133 2 years ago

Mylar removed. Now time to remove the glue.
I just use a standard adhesive remover and a nice new bondo spreader.

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#134 2 years ago

Great to see that there still are some true craftsmen and artisans left in the hobby.....Bravo!!!

#135 2 years ago

Glue removed. Playfield is thoroughly cleaned.
There are many steps to this and different cleaners
It is the most essential part of any playfield restoration because any dirt or ball trail not removed will be locked in once cleared over and to fix that would require repainting.
Sometimes that is easy enough in say a solid color loop or something but if in really intricate art it is a pain.

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#136 2 years ago

The starbursts like pattern inserts cleaned up well with much effort and use of chemistry.
They may be perfectly fine as they are once cleared.
It is not to say that there isn't a single spot left in them but more to say out of five there are only two that even show anything and those two only have small minor spots.
That being the case repainting all five or leaving the minor spots in the two are the choice.
I have highlighted my two concerns. There are positives and negatives to either solution but honestly more negative for this particular restoration style if I repainting all five versus leaving them alone.

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#137 2 years ago

Playfield lightly sanded.
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A little tightening up of the shooter Lane is done with a appropriate sized dowel.
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Same thing with the Merlin hole.

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#138 2 years ago

Holes are cleaned with a wire brush on a drill.
This also helps scuff and further promotes good bonding of the clear.

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#139 2 years ago

Playfield cleaned and ready for some minor touch up prior to clearing it for the first time.
Areas to address are a couple minor chops here and there
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A slight bit of deep ground in dirt in the shooter lane.
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Plus a small chip here
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#140 2 years ago

Shooter Lane is fixed by spraying wood tone over the cracks
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Then wiping it away therefore only the color stays in the low areas which looks better than the ground in dirt.
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Now improved.

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#141 2 years ago

On the burst inserts, no point in adding some yellow paint in the hairline cracks?

#142 2 years ago

Playfield cleared first time.

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#143 2 years ago
Quoted from lb1:

On the burst inserts, no point in adding some yellow paint in the hairline cracks?

No unfortunately it isn't that easy. It would make it look worse.
All or nothing is about all you can do.

#144 2 years ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

Wanted to "steal" the idea but have not managed to find a source for this black stand off's.
Would you share where you get those?
Thanks.
I made those by cleaning the originals,plastic priming them them painting them.
Usually paint one side wait an hour or two then flip and paint the other.
I keep a bin of them ready to go.

Home made off course
That explains the null-results on my high and low worldwide search...

Thanks for taking time to answer!

#145 2 years ago

About to gut the cabinet and get it into paint.

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#146 2 years ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

Ready to wire the ramp. I will make my own color correct harness.
What that means is this.
This switch is wired with a plain white and plain green wire.

It actually mates to this plug and coordinates on the switch matrix as Green/Blue and White/Orange.

As a result I will rewire that switch with the correct combo that will be extended and ran through shrink tubing for a cleaner look.

This will make for a nicer look and also make plug identification from underneath much easier and self explanatory.
I will repeat this on all switches flashers etc.

I have a harness that needs wiring corrections similar to this. Are you purchasing new, matching wire? If so, could you share your source? Thanks!

#147 2 years ago
Quoted from NoMonkey:

I have a harness that needs wiring corrections similar to this. Are you purchasing new, matching wire? If so, could you share your source? Thanks!

I purchase wire in large bulk that I think requires $1000 minimum order for custom color options but I can't remember right off hand.
Still working on my collection of that.
I have the full series of switch,GI and a good start on the solenoid but it is process getting not only the right color combos and gauges but also a good usable way to store and access it.
My next order should involve getting what I need to properly close out the solenoid combos and hopefully the feature lamp combinations.

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#148 2 years ago

Wiring removed and separated from cabinet. image (resized).jpg

Not much left in here.
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There is a light covering of surface rust on most of the blackened hardware. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

Green residue and corrosion on the power box metals.
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#149 2 years ago

Ready to remove the head.
One thing I do not do is install the furniture glides on the bottom of the head.
I know the did it to store the heads at the factory but so I often I see this as the breaking point in the lock miter joint.
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I will repair that of course but won't risk cracking it again with new glides.

#150 2 years ago

Head is off and empty.
First I will glue and screw it together in the weak spots which are the lower front left and right.
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I need to repaint some areas in this vicinity anyway so I will use the small trim style screws here and make little more work for myself.
It is a necessary evil because I don't want it breaking again.
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