(Topic ID: 179069)
Linked Games
Medieval Madness
Williams, 1997
Topic Gallery
Matthews, NC
Quoted from lb1:Came out beautiful. You're leaving the hole in the ramp? Not that it's that visible.
Thanks. There are more parts to go on like the flap and triangle so once built there will not be any unused holes in the ramp but tomorrow is another day.
Ready to wire the ramp. I will make my own color correct harness.
What that means is this.
This switch is wired with a plain white and plain green wire.
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It actually mates to this plug and coordinates on the switch matrix as Green/Blue and White/Orange.
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As a result I will rewire that switch with the correct combo that will be extended and ran through shrink tubing for a cleaner look.
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This will make for a nicer look and also make plug identification from underneath much easier and self explanatory.
I will repeat this on all switches flashers etc.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Thanks. There are more parts to go on like the flap and triangle so once built there will not be any unused holes in the ramp but tomorrow is another day.
Thanks for the clarification. I never had or saw up close a MM and did not realize there is a part going there. The split ramp is quite unusual too.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:small clear tubing is used to insure the legs don't touch
I know the factory used clear, is that why you use it rather than heat shrink?
Quoted from Atari_Daze:I know the factory used clear, is that why you use it rather than heat shrink?
The clear is a bit tougher than shrink. The shrink is good for light duty protection but more so for cleaning up the appearance.
Ramp 1 is done.
I will install the flap prior to install because they can get tweaked better at that point. MM flaps can be a bit rigid.
Ramp is wrapped in paper then put in a large safe storage container.
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Apron prepped. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
My first thought on the peeling decal is to trim the peeling non art parts off then see how it fairs once cleared.
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The bare metal is etched for adhesion and corrosion concerns.
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I find the black etch to be a good match to the less than true black the factory used on the apron so as A result it can be cleared over as if it were the actual paint.
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Thanks for all the effort you put into taking and posting pics as well as the detailed descriptions of each step. You are a credit to this hobby.
Talk about putting in the time it deserves. You are doing an awesome job and really doing this amazing pin justice.
I can't wait to see the rest of it as you make your way along!
Question from someone who knows next to nothing about restorations....what do you mean by "flaming" the ramps?
Looks amazing.
Quoted from VolunteerPin:Question from someone who knows next to nothing about restorations....what do you mean by "flaming" the ramps?
Looks amazing.
Once the ramps are super clean, one can use a torch (I use propane) to lightly/quickly apply the flame to the ramps. In a nutshell, it barely melts the plastic, just enough that any scratches fuse back together (makes them look shiny and new).
I have done it a few times and it makes ramps look amazing! It is an art and is super intimidating the first time you do it!
High_End_Pins - sorry to chime in on your thread. You may be able to explain better or provide pro tips I am sure!
Montreal, QC
Quoted from Plumonium:Were the decals new for the ramps or a re-use?
Those were new. Old ones had some marks.
New ramp decals are always my preference unless they can't be sourced then it is not to hard to reuse the old ones but they never seem quite as clear with the 3M transfer adhesive.
high_end_pins - sorry to chime in on your thread. You may be able to explain better or provide pro tips I am sure!
Nope sounds right to me.
Chris, ever try a plotter to make masking stencils? I know your a pro with a razor blade but once you made the artwork you would never have to cut another starburst out. Is this something you've ever experimented with or thought about?
Quoted from PanaPinResto:Chris, ever try a plotter to make masking stencils? I know your a pro with a razor blade but once you made the artwork you would never have to cut another starburst out. Is this something you've ever experimented with or thought about?
Yes I have thought about it many times and it would be nice but I am just so familiar with my own process that it seems easier at the time.
The other thing is there can be variation in the registration and with different companies making the same playfields at times inconsistencies so that is the main reason I do things manually.
It is definitely the hard way though.
I will deal with the plastics next.
At a glance all are in good useable shape. If not I have so many original spares I have no doubt replacements will not be needed.
Starting with this assembly I will clean polish and make minor appearance improvements.
Back to MM
Topside is pretty well torn down.
Gutting the head and restoring or refreshing as I go.
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Next item will be the dmd panel.
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The panel itself looks good just a bit chalky not black and the window is scratched up.
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Panel is blown dry and now ready to mask and refinish. image (resized).jpg
Script is carefully masked with killed off tape so it does not damage the chroming. It is a general masking not overly detailed because it doesn't need to be.
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Panel is lightly refinished just to freshen it up. You can see the masking is not fully covered with paint as an indicator.
This is a technique used to maintain the grainy texture of the panel and enhance it.
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Quoted from lb1:How do you remove the clips? There has to be a special tool. Or cut and replace?
I squeeze them with these Stanley pliers. Cut the ones that do not cooperate with that method and replace.
A guy I used to deal with about 10 years ago told me about the pliers and they work pretty well for it.
I will be pulling the playfield from the cabinet very shortly
One of the first things I want to do after unpopulating the topside is getting the bulk of the weight off the underside.
This is done by removing larger assemblies and coils.
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So I don't get overwhelmed later I will go through these now. They don't need a lot in general.
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I have plated brackets and all kinds of things I could easily use.
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It would honestly look nicer and last longer but at the same time this is not *that* type of restore so I will be more focused on adding practicality to the parts I go through to enhance it.
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