(Topic ID: 179069)

HEP Restores an original MM the original way


By High_End_Pins

2 years ago



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  • 344 posts
  • 68 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by High_End_Pins
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There are 344 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 7.
25
#1 2 years ago

Breaking the seal on this one today.
I will be restoring this original Medieval Madness and doing so in a manner that keeps it as original as possible meaning no decals,no replacement playfield nor any other parts unless they are service parts or needed in the best interest of the work itself or customer.
Dont even know what I have yet so first things first I am going to put it up on 4 legs.

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#3 2 years ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

Breaking the seal on this one today.
I will be restoring this original Medieval Madness and doing so in a manner that keeps it as original as possible meaning no decals,no replacement playfield nor any other parts unless they are service parts or needed in the best interest of the work itself or customer.
Dont even know what I have yet so first things first I am going to put it up on 4 legs.

That's the way.

#4 2 years ago

First before I install legs just for set up purposes I will note the expected leg wear and other spots as I discover them.

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#6 2 years ago

Doubling the felt at set up.Do not want to make any extra work for myself.
Large standard plus smaller cut per leg .
Keeping the leg off the cab with a soft touch.
Original screened MM cabs are awesome but the art is fragile against sharp metal.This wont be a concern once cleared.

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#7 2 years ago

Fronts are on.

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#8 2 years ago

Leg wear? What leg wear?

If the pf is as good as the cab looks, this one looks like a beauty.

#9 2 years ago

Rears next same type of marks also some minor chips here and there. Have not seen anything that makes me nervous yet.

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#10 2 years ago

Up on all fours.

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#11 2 years ago
Quoted from cooked71:

Leg wear? What leg wear?
If the pf is as good as the cab looks, this one looks like a beauty.

Yes if you want to do this type of restoration on this type of game you really have to start in a reasonable position or else you end up needing to go the decal route.

#12 2 years ago

Does that mean you touch up the cab or leave it as is?

#13 2 years ago

Head is up.
Typical marks as to be expected.

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#14 2 years ago
Quoted from cooked71:

Does that mean you touch up the cab or leave it as is?

My plan is repaint or retouch as needed and then clear coat entirely in an appropriate gloss level for long term durability.

#15 2 years ago

This game came in semi torn down so it looks incomplete but is not.
Sometimes people start doing something then decide to change direction and that is what we see there.

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#16 2 years ago

Looks like a darn good start as long as you either have the missing bits on hand, or can source them easy enough.

#17 2 years ago
Quoted from GotAQuestion:

Looks like a darn good start as long as you either have the missing bits on hand, or can source them easy enough.

Yes I have definitely seen and done much worse but the point of this thread is really about showing different styles and approaches to getting the same results.
Also showcasing that even nice games can be enhanced .Restoring junk becomes common place and easy at times.

#18 2 years ago

Glass is off and the playfield has good potential to say the least.
The game is not huo but it was probably operated privately, in the middle of nowhere or perhaps had a tech issue that took it out of circulation early on.
I don't know but always try to guess.
Ball drop and Merlin hole look great.
Will know more once it is completely stripped and cleaned.
The biggest issue I run into with MM playfields is the insert cracking and need to paint these yellow "burst".
It is tedious regardless of condition.I have seen and done it on even on NOS playfields as well.

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#19 2 years ago

About to raise the playfield.
Small gouge in the apron but the metal condition looks good.
Will be coordinating with the owner on just how original we want to be but if metal finish is part of that equation then I feel like these will polish up manually well.

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#20 2 years ago

Nice looking original pin..... id love to have one in that condition to start

#21 2 years ago

Underside looks good only minor corrosion which I have come to expect on any metal parts of the era.
Inner cab is clean for MM.
MM is a game that from the factory has a slightly oversprayed floor.It is the only one that is consistently like this I can think of with the exception of CFTBL but that is due to the hologram window.

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#22 2 years ago

The walls of the cab are a bit rough because of the less than perfect wood used during the construction. This will be taken care of during the process.

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#23 2 years ago

That is pretty much it for evaluation..
It might surprise some how much work will go into this even with a nice starting platform.
But saving,perfecting and enhancing that platform is a bit more work in some ways than just stripping it all down so it should be a change of pace in terms of restore threads.

#24 2 years ago

Can't wait to see the progress.

#25 2 years ago

I'm really excited to see this. Thanks Chris.

#26 2 years ago

Following

#27 2 years ago

Hmm I like this idea.

#28 2 years ago

Are you going to direct ink the cab or do decals?

#29 2 years ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

keeps it as original as possible meaning no decals,

LTG : )

#30 2 years ago

Has this game been sitting in your possession for a very, very long time?

1 month later
#31 2 years ago

Excited to see this one progress!

#32 2 years ago

I gotta say only Chris can create a thread where watching someone put legs on turns into an art form!

#33 2 years ago

I'm tuned in!

12
#34 2 years ago

I was the previous owner of this machine before selling my spot at HEP to another collector. I purchased it from the original owner who told me they purchased it NIB. They were very wealthy and had a lot of expensive toys so I have no reason to doubt them. Compared to their boat, cars, and other expensive toys a NIB pinball machine would have been a drop in the bucket for them. However they were not a pinball collector so it was neglected and got very dirty. They purchased the machine when they lived in PA and it took it with them when they moved to Florida, so the transposition could explain the cabinet flaws and FL climate could explain any corrosion. I had it shipped to me from FL with NAVL and the legs were on so that could have added to the wear around the legs.

Obviously we will never know if it was truly HUO however I have owned a lot of older HUO machines and this had a lot characteristics of what I typically see on those machines (very nice shooter lane, clean lockdown receiver/PF bottom/cabinet inside, matching boards, etc). I don't think you can see the full shooter lane in his pictures so here is how it looked:

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The machine worked properly when I received it and the only reason I tore down some of the topside was to get a better look at the playfield because I didn't want to send a machine to HEP that needed a reproduction playfield. Every part that I removed was in those boxes and packaged safely so it should all be there. The only thing missing was the DMD and that was because I removed it for a color DMD.

This was one of the nicest original MM's I have seen and my plans were always to have Chris restore this as close to original as possible since it was a very nice starting example. Most restored MM's are far from the original and have lots of reproduction parts, so I think it will be one of the nicest MM's in existence when done. I'm glad the new owner has a similar vision and is doing the restore how I always wanted to see it done. I will be following and look forward to seeing how it turns out.

1 week later
#35 2 years ago

I'm really looking forward to see the cabinet restoration. I just can't see how anyone could replicate the tiny dots patterns and blend the restored areas with the original ones but I'm sure Chris will work his magic again.

#36 2 years ago
Quoted from lb1:

I'm really looking forward to see the cabinet restoration. I just can't see how anyone could replicate the tiny dots patterns and blend the restored areas with the original ones but I'm sure Chris will work his magic again.

Yeah there is never a perfect solution to that problem but I have had to address it many times before. I remember doing these before you could even get decals and they were trashed so it is just like a step back to the old days.

1 month later
#37 2 years ago

When doing a game like this I prefer to go over or rework the parts as I remove them so first will be the ball guides and ramps.
Ramps couple with the ball guides because they too have ball guides.

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#38 2 years ago

Depending on the severity of the wear in the guide I use two different preps to remove the trail.
Moderate to severe the purple wheel

Lighter or after the purple wheel the scotch brite flap wheel.

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#39 2 years ago

These are prepped now and can be watersanded then cleaned after I do the rest.

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#40 2 years ago

I used the flap wheel yesterday to regrain some FG ramp protectors. It's a great tool. The only problem I have is that I find it hard to get a straight grain. Some hand wet sanding with 600 grit afterwards eliminates the problem.

#41 2 years ago

All playfield guides are prepped so now I need to talk about the ramps before I break those down to get the guides off.
The original ramps look good and useable but due to the split design they will need to be fully torn down and will require new splits,flaps and decals.

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#42 2 years ago

I will see what I have for these ramps in my MM bin.
Almost never what I need.

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#43 2 years ago

Damsel ramp torn down. Will remove the decals and glue then clean flame etc

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#44 2 years ago

Decals removed. Now for the glue. I have an adhesive remover that works well and won't damage the ramp but first I want to get as much glue off as possible.
This is done by patting over the glue repeatedly with masking tape it pulls the glue up.

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#45 2 years ago

Glad to see you back in action on this one. MM silk screened cabinets are gorgeous - thanks for choosing this one for a thread.

#46 2 years ago

The tape gets 99% of the glue quickly.
Less harsh chemicals needed on the ramp as a result.

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#47 2 years ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

Damsel ramp torn down. Will remove the decals and glue then clean flame etc

That is just where I pull out the Novus and get it "as good as it will get". Great work. Looking forward to watching the rest of the thread. Interesting approach, really.

It is possible to make nearly any machine a nice "restored" example these days if you pop in a new playfield in and paint/decal the cabinet but this will show the true original condition of the machine mixed with great restoring skills shown in the end result. Keep it up!

#48 2 years ago

Small metal parts from the ramp go in the ultrasonic cleaner.
Ramp is lightly cleaned twitch adhesive remover to remove trace amounts of glue and black dust.
Ramp and clear plastics are now placed in a bleache white bath.

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#49 2 years ago

Now removed from bleach bath washed dried ready to flame.

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#50 2 years ago

Flamed. Ready to decal.

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There are 344 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 7.

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