(Topic ID: 222199)

HEP presents a Tale of Two Medieval Madnesses

By High_End_Pins

5 years ago


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#1 5 years ago

Next HEP documentation will be the tale of two very different Medieval Madnesses.
This is a title that still comes in regularly despite the ability to buy a “new” one.
I will use it to highlight how different two games can be both in build from the factory and condition from use and maintenance.

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#2 5 years ago

We will call this MM 1image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

This will be MM 2
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#3 5 years ago

MM 1 from the factory has a purple cast to the cabinet.
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MM 2 has a blue cast to the cabinet.
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#4 5 years ago

MM 1 has a very bluish purple shade playfield.
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MM 2 has a more vivid purple shade
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#5 5 years ago

MM 1 is a wreck in a way that is hard to describe but I will try as I go.
The underside is always a good indicator. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

MM 2 is in closer to what would be considered average condition using the underside as an indicator. This is always a good way to get a sense of the true condition or games life. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
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#9 5 years ago
Quoted from o-din:

Has anybody sent you one of those new one's yet ? Ya know, maybe to re-ink the play field or fix those cabinet decals?

Not yet. I have had many inquiries but it never seems to happen.
I think it is the price point that defeats the purpose when talking about reworking a remake right now .
I will say that I see LOTRs and TSPP now coming in and they were NIB games when I started doing this so time will tell.

#18 5 years ago

Starting with MM 1 we will go over conditions from the inside out.
This is without a doubt the worst MM I have seen. Not so much cosmetically but mechanically. Although the cosmetics are bad too.

Top to bottom.
At the flipper section underside I will do my best to show everything that is wrong compared to MM 2.

MM 1image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
MM 2
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MM 1 auto fire bracket broken and welded together crooked
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MM 2 autofire bracket as it should be image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

MM 1 flipper assemblies are complete garbage.
Wrong plungers,wrong switches,missing parts and more. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

MM 2 has at least a respectable normal flipper set.

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#19 5 years ago

Moving down
MM 1 slingshot section.
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Masking tape covered repairs
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A stripped down target used for a slingshot switch. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

No such problems on MM 2

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#20 5 years ago

Center underside trolls and catapult area
MM 1 image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

The troll carriages are braised together,have the wrong screws and hardware image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

The catapult is peiced together with a nut and bolt for the plunger link. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
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Again no such problems on MM 2
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#21 5 years ago

MM 1 jet bumper area.
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All three jet bumper coil assemblies are peiced together with homemade armatures , missing screws,wrong coils,taped together,welded brackets you name it. The only thing worse is if they were not there at all. Maybe!
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MM 2 ? It is all there and correct.

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#23 5 years ago

Now for the most area.
MM 1 continues to disappoint I have come to expect no less.

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The most is busted image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

The flasher bulbs have been relocated to the playfield instead of the moat image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

The moat popper is braised together. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

MM 2 is all fine in comparison although the way the wiring is routed it is just begging to get smashed by the moat popper.

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#24 5 years ago

Last for the underside of the playfield will be the drawbridge mech.
MM 1’s drawbridge could not possibly escape the hands of the butcher
Missing the plunger spring
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They cut part of the bracket away to make the wrong screw fit. Much better to do that than to source a better fitting screw image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

I dont even know about this myself at a glance only that it is wrong and will be revealed once removed. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

MM 2
No problem s

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#26 5 years ago

Inside cabinet MM 1image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

The first red flag
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The second one image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

Then just normal kind of. For it.
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MM 2 looks normal inside there apparently was an attempt to install a shaker so that is a plus being that it has the parts on hand.

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#27 5 years ago

Both are US games with build dates less than 2 weeks apart.
MM 1
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MM 2

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#38 5 years ago

Had to run over to the warehouse and grab my MM bin.
I am definitely going to need it and we haven’t even looked at the topside yet.

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#48 5 years ago
Quoted from Mitch:

So will there be a big difference in cost between the 2 when done? Do you charge for used parts out of your bin? I'd hope so.

Probably not a huge difference between two outside of extra parts needs on MM 1
and around $500 in additional labor to offset the extra efforts needed.
Anything I have in the bin is free to the job because it is in hand and has no real cost or value to me right now outside of doing the best I can for these two games. Glad to donate it to the cause.

#49 5 years ago

Topside starting at the apron area
MM 1
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Apron has rust bubbles and a hardened clear glue(I HOPE that is what it is!)
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MM 2
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#50 5 years ago

Lower playfield flipper and sling area
MM 1
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Screws and hardware that are not worth salvaging. Corrosion that just does go away through tumbling or polishing. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

Shield inserts trashed. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

MM 2
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Hardware is reusable and should polish up nicely image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

This is where there starts to be some minor chinks in MM 2s armor
It has some insert bordering at the Magic Shield and chipping/ghosting at Sir Psycho
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#51 5 years ago

Center playfield
MM 1image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

Ridiculous toy figures and trashed inserts. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

MM 2
It also has ridiculous toy figures but they are nicer quality than MM 1. It just seems like anything MM 1 can do MM 2 can do better image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
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MM 2 has many more insert issues than you might realize or expect if you know what to look for
The biggest issue is that almost every insert shows edging or cracks in the colors with dirt ground in. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
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#53 5 years ago

Upper center playfield MM 1

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Missing the ball trap plastic that goes below the dragon wings on the wireform.
Also has some strange rusted rivet switch on the loop gate.Mixed and not matched hardware and broken ramp protectors image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

More trashed inserts and the wrong targets. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
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MM 2image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

Also missing the ball trap plastic. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
Also has one incorrect target
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Also has insert issues
The yellow is chipping off the revolt peasants,edging through all colors of the Charge and chipping at the Clash in addition the ghosting that is starting at several center blue inserts. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

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#54 5 years ago

Upper playfield.
MM 1
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Damn
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Merlin popper bracket broken off

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Drawbridge is 15% homemade 85% beat and 100% garbage.
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Broken plastics missing post.

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Shiny castle butchered exploding towers assembly. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

MM 2 image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

Wrong wafer on Lower jet.
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Cracked rampimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
Weird factory smudge in Fight Insert.
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#56 5 years ago

Now the head MM 1
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Has a large chunk missing image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

Even stranger is it has 8 evenly spaced holes on each side of the head that are about 1/8 in diameter image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

MM 2 is okay has normal nicks and stuff but the joint is broken and it looks like it was pretty rough from day 1 with a delaminated cut used for the top of the head that shows on the face. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

#58 5 years ago

Translite and speaker panels
MM 1

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Never seen this one before WTF?
Homemade lift channelimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
Came off in my hand when I tried to use it. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

Speaker panel lacks chrome script.
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Translite eggshell lots of burnt and broken sockets. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
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MM 2
No problems

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#60 5 years ago

Boards
MM 1
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Has a junky set of speakers. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
Driver looks decent is the newer version with the jumpers. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
AV looks ok at a glance does have some exposed wire coming out of the loop. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

CPU has a battery conversion to reverse at the least. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

MM 2
Looks good overall has an older ColorDMD and just a hint of battery corrosion at the holder.
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#61 5 years ago

Powering up MM 1
When they are this rough it is best to make sure that it has a good transformer and AV board

It amazingly does power up so that is good.
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No need to worry about MM 2 but just to make sure I am dealing with no hidden problems I check it

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#62 5 years ago

First things first I am going to get anything I can or will need mech wise off of MM 1 pulled and handed off to the plater
That will be things like testing brackets,troll brackets,prop rod etc.

I have enough on hand to do one full MM but not two so I want to grab the rougher parts.

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#63 5 years ago

Parts removed and ready for plating. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

All my spares are laid out so I can figure out what I have and what I will need.

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#69 5 years ago

Wireforms are pulledfrom MM 1 image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

MM 2
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These guys will soon be defending a new castle. Going to let them decide who goes in first.
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#71 5 years ago

Wireforms are being packed up and sent out for plating.

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#73 5 years ago

Apron MM 1
is ready to prep paint and clear. This is what we are dealing with after removing the caution sticker and instruction cards. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
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MM 2 after the same.

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#75 5 years ago

I need to get the hard residue off MM 1’s apron before proceeding.
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Now I can wash and watersand.

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#76 5 years ago

MM 1 apron prepped. All art is cleaned and in useable shape.
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The auto fire cover decal is removed because it is stained and will likely peel or fisheye when cleared over. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
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#78 5 years ago

MM 2’s apron is nice overall has a good factory finish and decal that is holding up well.
As a result it it thoroughly washed and only the center ball drain area sanded to be refinished.
I could easily clear it but that can create problems with the auto fire cover decal so based on current condition overall no need to risk that.
I can polish it up a bit later.

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#79 5 years ago

MM 1 apron is being carefully masked in order to metal etch and black out.
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Then metal etched and blacked out. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

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#80 5 years ago

MM 1 apron unmasked gets a couple minor touch ups then cleared.

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#81 5 years ago

MM 2 apron

Center drain section masked 4BF0BC5A-5528-46F5-965B-F138AA74F2A2 (resized).jpeg4BF0BC5A-5528-46F5-965B-F138AA74F2A2 (resized).jpeg

Etched and blacked out spot cleared.
A8DB0819-6832-491E-A715-C2DE94549122 (resized).jpegA8DB0819-6832-491E-A715-C2DE94549122 (resized).jpeg

Unmasked
3E284776-414D-4A6A-A696-351BF11E12F2 (resized).jpeg3E284776-414D-4A6A-A696-351BF11E12F2 (resized).jpeg3D91AAE9-F87E-451B-97B7-534BA6DBBFC2 (resized).jpeg3D91AAE9-F87E-451B-97B7-534BA6DBBFC2 (resized).jpeg

#82 5 years ago

Translite panel is next starting with MM 1
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Translite and glass removed.
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Harness pulled most sockets are broken from being scorched and brittle. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

Panel is ready to wash and prep for refinishing. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

#83 5 years ago

Panel is washed inside and out.
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Then sanded with the appropriate preparation for plastic refinishing. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

Then hung up to fully dry before starting the painting process. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

#84 5 years ago

While waiting for MM 1s eggshell to fully dry I will wash It’s translite as well.
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Then dried.

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#85 5 years ago

MM 1 eggshell ready to prep for paint. Requires plastic cleaner and adhesion promoter. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
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Cleaned and primed. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

Based in White with a slight crinkle to mask flaws and add a little more durability.

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#86 5 years ago

While MM 1 s eggshell paint dries I will clean the glass for it and make an all new harness with new sockets.
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Glass cleaned. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

I make a small jig to build the eggshell harness.
The eggshell itself is too fragile to use for this purpose.

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#87 5 years ago

I will start with the Green and Green\white GI strand

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#88 5 years ago

MM 1 green strand done. You get the idea

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#96 5 years ago

Harness is made up in sections and will be intertwined as installed.
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Eggshell is dry and ready to rebuild.

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#99 5 years ago

MM 1 eggshell wired and ready for testing prior to final assembly. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

Tested.
Used a combination of mostly warm and few cool frosted LEDs for a desired effect when the translite is placed.

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#100 5 years ago

MM 1 translite panel rebuild complete.
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Trash left over from just that part.
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Placed in MM 2 for final testing image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

Labeled image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

Shelved.

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#101 5 years ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

I want to know how you avoid spending 1/4 of your day cleaning your paint guns

I use a quick cup system for smaller jobs.the sleeves are disposable
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On my larger more crucial jobs my guns are equipped with quick release 1/4 turn cups. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
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Couple that with A small special clean up bottle full of thinner and it minimizes clean up time and waste.

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#105 5 years ago

Ready to tackle MM 2s eggshell
Should be much less involved than #1

It looks nice image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

The only real problem is that it is installed upside down with the pigtail coming off the right side instead of the left which means it is lighting the translite all wrong. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

Broke down image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
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All bulbs removed.
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Panel washed as an assembly because the risk of breaking heat brittle sockets is not worth it considering the overall condition
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Panel is hung to drip dry for a minute while I clean and recondition the other parts but I will blow it dry with compressed air before I reinstall it.

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#106 5 years ago

Glass channels are good not broken so they are lightly dusted with paint to freshen them up.

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While those dry I blow the eggshell and wiring dry. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

Now completely dry I can place the LEDs
All warm frosted with a few cools in the bluer areas of the translite.
I map that out by placing the translite over the eggshell and barely marking the sockets that will get the cool bulbs by blacking just one tab of the socket.
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#107 5 years ago

Lamps are installed and the panel is tested prior to reassembly
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Glass is cleaned and translite wiped down as it did not need a full wash. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

Panel rebuilt with the plug now on the correct side meaning it will be properly lit. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

Now final tested/verified.

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#108 5 years ago

MM 1 speaker panel rebuild.

Panel as removed.
AD58D0EA-2015-43F8-8676-31418AB16AED (resized).jpegAD58D0EA-2015-43F8-8676-31418AB16AED (resized).jpeg

Williams script was painted over. If I were doing a black version I could probably just redo it and live with that but I am not on this one. 08DF011F-2DF0-4400-B88B-5983536685C0 (resized).jpeg08DF011F-2DF0-4400-B88B-5983536685C0 (resized).jpeg

Panel is torndown 424A5482-9D3B-426B-B766-E23356C0DB45 (resized).jpeg424A5482-9D3B-426B-B766-E23356C0DB45 (resized).jpeg
Will need a new speaker set. Also has an incorrect value at 8 ohms D9568A27-8700-4182-BA78-228A8ECA5D6D (resized).jpegD9568A27-8700-4182-BA78-228A8ECA5D6D (resized).jpeg

Other needed parts are cleaned.
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I have a new panel on hand.
It isn’t perfect because there is a slight marking on the chrome script but it is being gifted to the project and will be a significant upgrade
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#109 5 years ago

The new panel is being assembled with a new clear window,speakers and an LED version ColorDMD.
I personally prefer that version because it always fits and the colors are more vivid and I actually like the dots but I know opinions are divided.
B1D59C34-49A4-4CD7-8FE3-A123D5D11929 (resized).jpegB1D59C34-49A4-4CD7-8FE3-A123D5D11929 (resized).jpeg

When using a ColorDMD on WPC 95 games one thing I like to address is the gap between the display and the window.
This can be done with black weather strip foam or in this case but shortening the display stand offs
I have shaved these down for a tighter fit to the window. AE6DC1AE-BC20-4DD4-BA05-B7E0A1E74487 (resized).jpegAE6DC1AE-BC20-4DD4-BA05-B7E0A1E74487 (resized).jpeg040C0930-55F7-4456-8BF1-D5AA675F91D6 (resized).jpeg040C0930-55F7-4456-8BF1-D5AA675F91D6 (resized).jpeg464EAF55-0F51-4A30-8503-720198E6025B (resized).jpeg464EAF55-0F51-4A30-8503-720198E6025B (resized).jpeg8ED58309-22A3-4458-9D5A-3937B9308601 (resized).jpeg8ED58309-22A3-4458-9D5A-3937B9308601 (resized).jpeg

The panel rebuild is now complete.
782C45DB-1CB0-460D-AA91-77929FB3BC50 (resized).jpeg782C45DB-1CB0-460D-AA91-77929FB3BC50 (resized).jpeg90926167-7E3E-4B63-8491-F4162CC2613A (resized).jpeg90926167-7E3E-4B63-8491-F4162CC2613A (resized).jpeg4D16040D-6E4C-408A-874F-79A938436629 (resized).jpeg4D16040D-6E4C-408A-874F-79A938436629 (resized).jpeg

It is then packed labeled and shelved.

087FD2FF-D257-47AC-9804-8F2ABDD166E2 (resized).jpeg087FD2FF-D257-47AC-9804-8F2ABDD166E2 (resized).jpeg

#111 5 years ago
Quoted from yancy:

How do you remove those pesky display panel nuts without destroying the plastic standoffs?

Pinch them with these. I will catch that when I do MM 2s panel.

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

10
#120 5 years ago
Quoted from Jvspin:

Excellent work, but curious at some of the decisions to reuse old parts like the translite trim on MM2 vs installing new. Also seems a little unfair that because MM1 was in such bad shape, it ends up looking nicer than MM2.
I think the yellowing around the holes in the MM2 light panel would bother me if I was having such a restoration done.
Edit: Also thinking that since MM2 was in such nice shape to begin with, the only reason to send it to HEP would be because the owner wanted to take it to the next level and have everything perfect. Perhaps this is an incorrect assumption.

These are good questions and it makes sense that it would be confusing.
The reason some choices are made have a lot to do with two things.
The first is needs.
Does MM 2 need new trim or to have the panel painted?
No but because of the results of MM 1 needing those things it makes it seem like that would be more ideal.

The reason it is not ideal for MM 2 the second reason.
Parts fit and potential damage.

Had I removed all the sockets from MM 2s eggshell they would most likely break and potentially the eggshell itself

Also the original glass channels fit MUCH better than the new replacements.

So to summarize.
MM 2s owner would have been punished essentially by having to buy all new sockets,possibly an eggshell and lesser fitting glass channels.

MM 1 needed those things and had nothing to lose by attempting it.

Make sense?

One more thing to add is the yellow around the bulbs is on the inside of the panel only not the outside so that is important too.
If it were on the outside it would be more of a need at that point.

#121 5 years ago

Back to MM 1
I am going to focus on it s bit more now because it has the biggest needs and will be more time consuming.

Next step will be remove and clean the boards and fully evaluate them.

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#122 5 years ago

As I remove the wire I notice that the knocker is direct soldered. No plug as you see on MM 2

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#123 5 years ago

Boards removed. Cleaned swapped for better examples that are already serviced.

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#126 5 years ago
Quoted from Koos:

Maybe a few stupid questions to ask but I’m not that familiar with the whole in-depth pin restoration yet:
What does servicing mean when you’re talking about electronics like those boards?
How can you tell a board needs it?
And is it only affected by age or also by use?
And is that something only older boards benefit from or do you do that with newer machines as well? (Although you won’t receive many newer machines for restoration I guess)
EDIT: just trying to learn something here. Hopefully I’ll be able to do some minor repairs on older pins one day.

The need to service boards and which boards can be pretty specific to different brands and eras.
Some certain brands or eras have either well known flaws or lifespan component issues like GI sections that burn up( flaw)dried up capacitors(lifespan)
Looking at a board visually can help spot poorly done repairs like this.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

Or known flaws like this overheating. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

Servicing would mean people well versed in these issues and known regular failures would go through a set of boards and correct or maintenance them.
The idea is to send a game out that not only works well today but for years to come.

#127 5 years ago

Inner head wiring is rmoved from MM 1
It will be cleaned then gone through a bit.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
Trouble spots are
Masking taped power splices. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
Burnt connector for translite mating plug.

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#129 5 years ago

Wiring issue was exposed
No real cut or compromise to the wire itself only the insulation. B41900A0-991F-416C-AD18-CA4E7A61A328 (resized).jpegB41900A0-991F-416C-AD18-CA4E7A61A328 (resized).jpeg

Wire is cleaned and pulled from the connector DDA4B880-07C1-4301-8CCE-F2D9A0E69A6F (resized).jpegDDA4B880-07C1-4301-8CCE-F2D9A0E69A6F (resized).jpeg

The exposed wire is then tinned to make sure there are no loose strands 59A5EFBD-F0E7-412B-8EF4-CF72CB066FBE (resized).jpeg59A5EFBD-F0E7-412B-8EF4-CF72CB066FBE (resized).jpeg6C15D7B1-10FF-4D39-ADC5-A5D4AEC8B4C2 (resized).jpeg6C15D7B1-10FF-4D39-ADC5-A5D4AEC8B4C2 (resized).jpeg

A sleeve is made with clear tubing and shrink tube .The idea is to give a thick durable housing for the exposed wire that is the clear tubing and to make sure it doesn’t move that is the shrink tubing 0F451583-ED9C-4D34-9B14-D8DDA50F1DD1 (resized).jpeg0F451583-ED9C-4D34-9B14-D8DDA50F1DD1 (resized).jpegE45A78D8-60D1-4014-815C-5BE8F0B2F380 (resized).jpegE45A78D8-60D1-4014-815C-5BE8F0B2F380 (resized).jpegEF37CBFC-623D-4073-AE37-D9AA966BD41B (resized).jpegEF37CBFC-623D-4073-AE37-D9AA966BD41B (resized).jpeg

The sleeve is then placed over the section and heated. CDC1B649-2C3E-4226-947C-EE284F68E6B9 (resized).jpegCDC1B649-2C3E-4226-947C-EE284F68E6B9 (resized).jpeg

Now tidying it up by burying it in the harness and zip tying. 5C563425-24F9-4BD9-854D-11F614BFAD4B (resized).jpeg5C563425-24F9-4BD9-854D-11F614BFAD4B (resized).jpeg8DB67F77-41A2-4B82-8AC8-9B4F37A629AA (resized).jpeg8DB67F77-41A2-4B82-8AC8-9B4F37A629AA (resized).jpeg

#130 5 years ago

Ribbon cables cleaned up nicely. 5262228A-BE4C-4D57-9FD2-693F05F3C53D (resized).jpeg5262228A-BE4C-4D57-9FD2-693F05F3C53D (resized).jpeg

The burnt connector for the translite panel is rebuilt/replaced.
I had a little extra wiggle room in the harness since I extended the panels pigtail so I was easily able to cut it back 1/2 an inch to make sure I got rid of not only the burnt pins but scorched wire sections as well.

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#131 5 years ago

Next I will pull the lamp boards fro MM 1
I know this might skip around a bit but there is a method to my madness when it comes to the order I do things

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#132 5 years ago

Boards removed.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

This includes all remaining boards like the coin door,flipper boards etc.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

Pretty dirty of course I marked the orientation so I can easily rebulb it with LEDs correctly.

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#133 5 years ago

MM 1 lamp are cleaned and placed on the playfield just as they would be if installed underneath. This will allow me to easily map out the LED configuration
583516FF-9681-4DB2-BA7E-632A7571EBB3 (resized).jpeg583516FF-9681-4DB2-BA7E-632A7571EBB3 (resized).jpeg

LED are pulled from the LED drawer 9FB5A9AF-A0E4-46CB-95F0-44164834D48D (resized).jpeg9FB5A9AF-A0E4-46CB-95F0-44164834D48D (resized).jpeg

LEDs are installed 593481FB-E154-4EAC-B0E2-98596A00BE96 (resized).jpeg593481FB-E154-4EAC-B0E2-98596A00BE96 (resized).jpeg

The boards are individually tested in MM 281E3A5F2-A470-4DBB-9FB4-B68FC91B7A3F (resized).jpeg81E3A5F2-A470-4DBB-9FB4-B68FC91B7A3F (resized).jpeg

#134 5 years ago

Now the lamp boards from MM 1 can be copied over to MM 2
08E3A0D7-C419-49CA-BA54-8C70EF2C7632 (resized).jpeg08E3A0D7-C419-49CA-BA54-8C70EF2C7632 (resized).jpeg50FEA1CC-72B5-424B-B080-B73E61F9FAD3 (resized).jpeg50FEA1CC-72B5-424B-B080-B73E61F9FAD3 (resized).jpeg

MM uses some of the very same lamp boards from one spot to another so once the color schemes are put in place it is very important to note the lamp boards exact location to at the very least save a little time at rebuild.
This is an example of how the exact same board might have different color schemes based on its place underneath 57055FF6-0371-41D4-9551-A19F45116DF2 (resized).jpeg57055FF6-0371-41D4-9551-A19F45116DF2 (resized).jpeg

In order to avoid confusion it is lightly marked (C in this case) and It’s corresponding location marked on the underside of the soon to be junk playfield. 198CB3BD-0831-464F-A276-39FC40134739 (resized).jpeg198CB3BD-0831-464F-A276-39FC40134739 (resized).jpeg1EB66E72-23BE-481A-985E-E84BB393EBE6 (resized).jpeg1EB66E72-23BE-481A-985E-E84BB393EBE6 (resized).jpeg

All lamp boards are now cleaned LEDs installed and tested for both games.

37BD7A31-CD13-4E14-8550-DFCE421473F8 (resized).jpeg37BD7A31-CD13-4E14-8550-DFCE421473F8 (resized).jpeg
#135 5 years ago

The drawbridge motor controller from MM 1 has an incorrect transistor based off the evidence of it being changed and it not matching the TIP 102 used on MM 2s board 0648DCE6-882A-46AB-9D5C-28E3825F2627 (resized).jpeg0648DCE6-882A-46AB-9D5C-28E3825F2627 (resized).jpegF807D3CA-B363-4E5C-97D7-087255B25C44 (resized).jpegF807D3CA-B363-4E5C-97D7-087255B25C44 (resized).jpeg
I cannot remember off hand if a TIP 122 is a suitable replacement but regardless The transistor is swapped for a TIP 102 and the board is confirmed working properly in MM 2
2CC1F89A-49C0-4371-BBE5-B2938D97E762 (resized).jpeg2CC1F89A-49C0-4371-BBE5-B2938D97E762 (resized).jpeg8177626C-E827-49A9-A476-C643B5B28FC2 (resized).jpeg8177626C-E827-49A9-A476-C643B5B28FC2 (resized).jpeg

#136 5 years ago

Now on to the exploding castles.
Both are pulled. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

MM 1s is broken and peiced together.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

MM 2 looks okay but looks to be rigged a touch most likely trying to weight to one tower to sit flat/ straight up.

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#137 5 years ago

MM 1 castle mech torndown
Was missing c clip 9923215B-E7C5-4089-A641-1C3139A1454D (resized).jpeg9923215B-E7C5-4089-A641-1C3139A1454D (resized).jpeg

Disassembled
3BE6A2A2-1F40-46A0-AF2A-D8B7B6D5A5D3 (resized).jpeg3BE6A2A2-1F40-46A0-AF2A-D8B7B6D5A5D3 (resized).jpeg
Broken tower basesE62749C6-AD85-4DCB-BDAE-8418EC99E0E4 (resized).jpegE62749C6-AD85-4DCB-BDAE-8418EC99E0E4 (resized).jpegF261F349-ECA5-4E8B-B90D-30A3C8A0BF4E (resized).jpegF261F349-ECA5-4E8B-B90D-30A3C8A0BF4E (resized).jpeg

I won’t replace the towers themselves only the bases because the towers of MM are much like paint. Rarely are two ever alike in color due to different runs,aging and environment. In this case in particular it has been coated t match all other castle parts and looks good as a whole
Here is an example of the tower variations and why replacement would make certain towers stand out.

45DE955B-D1EE-4564-9B43-F7523525D4BF (resized).jpeg45DE955B-D1EE-4564-9B43-F7523525D4BF (resized).jpeg5DA8065D-2AE5-49F6-8449-D3E79ADBB6C8 (resized).jpeg5DA8065D-2AE5-49F6-8449-D3E79ADBB6C8 (resized).jpeg96D631A8-6C57-4145-B065-9B9CFEA0C76A (resized).jpeg96D631A8-6C57-4145-B065-9B9CFEA0C76A (resized).jpeg
#138 5 years ago

The towers that need new bases are lightly heated up with a heat gun to remove the bases. 59A19AD0-5503-418D-A56D-B8B48C267354 (resized).jpeg59A19AD0-5503-418D-A56D-B8B48C267354 (resized).jpeg

Base removed 4B8AEA4F-F3CC-4B8C-B1E9-AE053923E267 (resized).jpeg4B8AEA4F-F3CC-4B8C-B1E9-AE053923E267 (resized).jpeg

Trash C3C3FB3E-DDF2-472B-8F26-058221770B27 (resized).jpegC3C3FB3E-DDF2-472B-8F26-058221770B27 (resized).jpeg

New bases lightly glued in place 114D93EE-748D-44EA-96E4-DB30483B7D5A (resized).jpeg114D93EE-748D-44EA-96E4-DB30483B7D5A (resized).jpeg
New correct springs and clips are installed. 706D6C44-CDF7-4B3C-AD3B-C7B2C7764695 (resized).jpeg706D6C44-CDF7-4B3C-AD3B-C7B2C7764695 (resized).jpeg

#139 5 years ago

Now to address the lean 90% of the MMs I have seen and done have.

In this position you can see the rear left tower tends to lean outward.
09B82452-77F3-4AA2-804B-25975616E81F (resized).jpeg09B82452-77F3-4AA2-804B-25975616E81F (resized).jpeg

To easily fix this a cloth hair band is going to be placed around the rear two towers. CE100A8C-3487-46EC-94A6-F1122789D1DE (resized).jpegCE100A8C-3487-46EC-94A6-F1122789D1DE (resized).jpeg
822D08EC-C197-4847-B9AD-DAAD7DA20309 (resized).jpeg822D08EC-C197-4847-B9AD-DAAD7DA20309 (resized).jpeg

The band is placed and sits perfectly between the grooves of the base and tower CB6833FD-8487-4561-95CD-9CB723F28B30 (resized).jpegCB6833FD-8487-4561-95CD-9CB723F28B30 (resized).jpeg
The castle mech moves freely and easily with no ill effects.
3BC58F3D-EA17-482A-A152-A3331F2B9784 (resized).jpeg3BC58F3D-EA17-482A-A152-A3331F2B9784 (resized).jpeg27224618-20E0-48AB-B2DF-CE06E56DEFBE (resized).jpeg27224618-20E0-48AB-B2DF-CE06E56DEFBE (resized).jpeg

The towers now stand straight the band will likely never wear out and would take seconds to replace or remove if ever needed. 390A7065-C83E-440C-96C5-621A44CACC49 (resized).jpeg390A7065-C83E-440C-96C5-621A44CACC49 (resized).jpeg

#140 5 years ago

MM 1 exploding castle towers are done.

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#141 5 years ago

MM 2 s towers only needed the weight removed which was some washers taped together. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
Then placed the cloth band. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

Now all set less a little touch up later on

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#142 5 years ago

While I have the clear plastics out I will make up the missing ball trap plastics.
Both are missing these and it is a very common thing for someone to shop a game out not realize where it goes and toss them.

New plastics and bracket. If you don’t have the bracket something similar can be made up with a large washer. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

One of my brackets is an original that is the correct blackened metal the other is a stainless steel replacement.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

The stainless one is metal etched black image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

The peices are made up. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

This is where they should be

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#143 5 years ago

Now for the ramps starting with MM 1
I will pull the Damsel ramp.

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#145 5 years ago

Damsel ramp pulled. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

Amazingly it isn’t actually broken if needed I could rebuild it but it just isn’t worth doing because the others are broke and were bought in sets.
The decals are trashedimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

The guards broken
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

Hardware beyond reconditioning image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

So as I said I bought a small lot of ramps.
These came from Marco looks nice right ?
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

Not so fast
They have the flaps riveted on upside down. Thanks a lot!!!
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

I will have to correct that.
Sure I could complain/return or whatever but I could also just take care of it and move on.
That is what I will do.

#147 5 years ago

The ramps are corrected.
Turns out I needed to do a couple other things to make them right.

The switch brackets were untreated metal already starting to rust and not the correct blackened metal.
B5B4E27F-5559-415D-A768-6CAB4ECAD911 (resized).jpegB5B4E27F-5559-415D-A768-6CAB4ECAD911 (resized).jpeg
These were pulled.
4DD541EE-4424-4206-AEC6-875A7CDE86E9 (resized).jpeg4DD541EE-4424-4206-AEC6-875A7CDE86E9 (resized).jpeg

Metal etched blackened C7B7BAEE-A0D5-4E47-9A3E-939786A3993F (resized).jpegC7B7BAEE-A0D5-4E47-9A3E-939786A3993F (resized).jpeg

Dry
631D57E8-BF98-4D03-93AC-207B10EF2CB9 (resized).jpeg631D57E8-BF98-4D03-93AC-207B10EF2CB9 (resized).jpeg

Now placed
884BD778-F4C9-4314-B348-EBCAE06DE55B (resized).jpeg884BD778-F4C9-4314-B348-EBCAE06DE55B (resized).jpeg
1ED2CCA7-ADB5-4D1B-8450-7A3AB32FF1A9 (resized).jpeg1ED2CCA7-ADB5-4D1B-8450-7A3AB32FF1A9 (resized).jpeg

As for the flaps they were removed
028FC97A-A41E-420A-83EE-7B436C01B840 (resized).jpeg028FC97A-A41E-420A-83EE-7B436C01B840 (resized).jpeg

Removal shows the flaps to be basically ruined from improper installation because they are bent backwards now. 8B6EEA3F-E8E0-4271-96F8-D51F5D0A57FF (resized).jpeg8B6EEA3F-E8E0-4271-96F8-D51F5D0A57FF (resized).jpeg

The flaps will be replaced with some I have from Pinbits 75C8B254-C5A5-4F4F-A23D-6800882BFB3F (resized).jpeg75C8B254-C5A5-4F4F-A23D-6800882BFB3F (resized).jpeg

Ramps all set. 9D746B6E-02F5-4356-ADCE-515E95D081E1 (resized).jpeg9D746B6E-02F5-4356-ADCE-515E95D081E1 (resized).jpeg

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#157 5 years ago

Building damsel ramp for MM 1
Starting with new guards they need the film and residue removed. F8827C7C-2C01-468E-876C-8FB5566FC187 (resized).jpegF8827C7C-2C01-468E-876C-8FB5566FC187 (resized).jpeg
Residue removed with adhesive remover.
93157B58-8576-472D-9982-03B8881C709C (resized).jpeg93157B58-8576-472D-9982-03B8881C709C (resized).jpeg

New screws are needed
6550B328-B919-4757-A83C-3C4C41296A19 (resized).jpeg6550B328-B919-4757-A83C-3C4C41296A19 (resized).jpeg
93660327-22F4-436F-88E7-5646B19DB423 (resized).jpeg93660327-22F4-436F-88E7-5646B19DB423 (resized).jpeg

#158 5 years ago

An entirely new harness will be made with the normal color correct extended wiring I like to utilize in the process C24748AC-AD68-4AE5-89ED-C582B89C7646 (resized).jpegC24748AC-AD68-4AE5-89ED-C582B89C7646 (resized).jpeg
8A431940-83F5-4502-A587-46177DF95E68 (resized).jpeg8A431940-83F5-4502-A587-46177DF95E68 (resized).jpeg

All wiring is run through black shrink tube
C8CBA3D2-1B02-4C80-9102-2529106AD801 (resized).jpegC8CBA3D2-1B02-4C80-9102-2529106AD801 (resized).jpeg
0006CCC9-7434-4F0D-ACC7-2489092957EF (resized).jpeg0006CCC9-7434-4F0D-ACC7-2489092957EF (resized).jpeg

#159 5 years ago

I need to talk about dragon wings for a minute.
Factory wings were pretty much a straight red and fairly bright.
Generation 1 I will call it repro were closer but a little darker or translucent. D461D873-420B-4B2A-B0CD-0BB6E032A5C0 (resized).jpegD461D873-420B-4B2A-B0CD-0BB6E032A5C0 (resized).jpeg

They still came close to matching the dragon body. 4F1D4720-6F83-4A5C-89EE-69A843CBE614 (resized).jpeg4F1D4720-6F83-4A5C-89EE-69A843CBE614 (resized).jpeg

The more recent reproduction have just gotten too dark for my liking because it gets farther and farther away from the color of the body itself and the initial release.They sort of pick up the body accents and work at s glance but just not close enough to correct anymore. 1230982B-13D3-4A21-BBA4-D7EE6B6D0312 (resized).jpeg1230982B-13D3-4A21-BBA4-D7EE6B6D0312 (resized).jpeg
DA9F7FEB-5309-4C6D-B8CF-B9C0E7FAEE9A (resized).jpegDA9F7FEB-5309-4C6D-B8CF-B9C0E7FAEE9A (resized).jpeg

#160 5 years ago

To bridge the gap between what is nice about the recent repros and what they lack in my eyes I do a light refinishing to get a happier medium.
883189C9-AAA6-44AE-8886-A6F5FA6370A8 (resized).jpeg883189C9-AAA6-44AE-8886-A6F5FA6370A8 (resized).jpeg

First plastic prep and prime. Very light so I don’t lose too much detailE2FFB791-3846-4A30-A876-D879A42EDDBD (resized).jpegE2FFB791-3846-4A30-A876-D879A42EDDBD (resized).jpeg

Next a light coat of candied brighter red on each side. Not to fully cover but to brighten. EA53F64F-C451-4814-B4E6-7861D9F91C36 (resized).jpegEA53F64F-C451-4814-B4E6-7861D9F91C36 (resized).jpegF693C8F4-2789-4298-8117-2B75A5DD2917 (resized).jpegF693C8F4-2789-4298-8117-2B75A5DD2917 (resized).jpeg

Followed by a light flash of glossed clear base to protect and barely shine this will shine more on the higher surface than the lower because it is only misted and will gather higher quicker than lower E74DF949-14D3-45FC-AA16-2704B6213E02 (resized).jpegE74DF949-14D3-45FC-AA16-2704B6213E02 (resized).jpeg5C1D8621-06FB-4522-9FB1-821090AB59BF (resized).jpeg5C1D8621-06FB-4522-9FB1-821090AB59BF (resized).jpeg

#161 5 years ago

Now to compare to the original repros
Original repro shows s but light and lower in detail.
1D60EC7C-5CE9-48C3-BAB2-5CEED999A2BB (resized).jpeg1D60EC7C-5CE9-48C3-BAB2-5CEED999A2BB (resized).jpeg

Refinished newer repro is the sweet spot in terms of match and accents for me.
It matched the body well without overdoing the black accents. 3254121C-CC33-4448-9BD1-FDF2BA7AFE94 (resized).jpeg3254121C-CC33-4448-9BD1-FDF2BA7AFE94 (resized).jpeg

#162 5 years ago

Damsel ramp for MM 1 is complete
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#165 5 years ago

Damsel ramp for MM 2 now done.
Ramps can be pretty time consuming.
Just swapping them over real quick with original wiring and components would be much easier obviously but it is worth the extra effort to me.

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#166 5 years ago

Peasant ramps

MM 1s ramp is dirty and cracked with a broken guard. B08F78AC-F198-4C29-AD6E-3801692FA6BF (resized).jpegB08F78AC-F198-4C29-AD6E-3801692FA6BF (resized).jpeg
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MM 2s looks a little better but had spiderweb like cracking at attachment points and dirt gathered up between the plastic triangle 3A0382BB-B776-4B18-9E9F-0DEE69063ED7 (resized).jpeg3A0382BB-B776-4B18-9E9F-0DEE69063ED7 (resized).jpeg
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#167 5 years ago

New ramps look good in terms of flap installation. 40475905-7937-40AC-A25A-10D786BB8C89 (resized).jpeg40475905-7937-40AC-A25A-10D786BB8C89 (resized).jpeg

They do have the bare metal rusty switch bracket issue. E94EE0EC-B07C-470A-BB09-B46CE597289B (resized).jpegE94EE0EC-B07C-470A-BB09-B46CE597289B (resized).jpeg

Those are removed. 06BD304D-0FDB-471A-884D-075378A2A9C6 (resized).jpeg06BD304D-0FDB-471A-884D-075378A2A9C6 (resized).jpeg

The ramps are broken down and carryover parts are grouped.
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First I will Black the sockets and other blackened parts back out.
Plastic painting for sockets,metal etching for metal. 6E8FA2D8-3CE9-42FC-B594-6CC239471E31 (resized).jpeg6E8FA2D8-3CE9-42FC-B594-6CC239471E31 (resized).jpeg87C24C7E-7AB8-4F09-9DAD-40728C82715A (resized).jpeg87C24C7E-7AB8-4F09-9DAD-40728C82715A (resized).jpeg4BB55200-58C1-4B14-B41A-E7FD02225D5B (resized).jpeg4BB55200-58C1-4B14-B41A-E7FD02225D5B (resized).jpeg

#168 5 years ago

During this process I am going to grain the guards and also the entry ramp guide. Doing it in this order because the new flaps are loose on my workbench from unpacking the other ramp flaps and I want to clean that up/reorganize.

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Guards and guides removed at this point are regrained initial with a combi wheel.
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Then watersanded.
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Then essentially polished with an SOS pad. My aim here is a nice factory like finish that will wear well and can be refreshed during a standard shop job with a scotchbrite. 49782381-63D0-4CA1-A18B-E0BDD8632EB0 (resized).jpeg49782381-63D0-4CA1-A18B-E0BDD8632EB0 (resized).jpeg
Truly polishing to a chromelike finish is something I have done in the past thinking it would be “better” but what I found is it shows wear much quicker and cannot be maintained just redone so I would save that for impressive pictures or games that might not see much use.

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Now the flaps can be attached and the guards placed on the new peasant ramps. 232C0932-4650-48C2-91A8-6B7F2384866E (resized).jpeg232C0932-4650-48C2-91A8-6B7F2384866E (resized).jpeg
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#169 5 years ago

The gates of the ramps are cleaned grained 7F939C4D-0279-4BF0-B437-7CC38276829A (resized).jpeg7F939C4D-0279-4BF0-B437-7CC38276829A (resized).jpeg

New switches are used along with new wiring on any ramp rebuild. 298A8094-A120-40E5-87F6-12383A6BEE61 (resized).jpeg298A8094-A120-40E5-87F6-12383A6BEE61 (resized).jpeg

Gates are done 1611E74E-2966-40BA-A46C-390B49B98B34 (resized).jpeg1611E74E-2966-40BA-A46C-390B49B98B34 (resized).jpeg

#170 5 years ago

A new harness is made for both ramps as I go along.
It is all run through black shrink tube and the hot leads are insulated so they can’t short.A3C9AC98-68ED-4479-94C4-BEB2988BCC45 (resized).jpegA3C9AC98-68ED-4479-94C4-BEB2988BCC45 (resized).jpeg

The spotlight wiring is reconfigured entirely by eliminating the loud looking yellow and yellow/white strand for that location as well as the multiple wire tap on the right side where 4 wires are chaining the spotlight together making it look even sloppier.
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Black wire and black/blue is used to replace that and it is run individually to the sockets. C2CC438D-8D40-48C7-B023-EE77BB7AB791 (resized).jpegC2CC438D-8D40-48C7-B023-EE77BB7AB791 (resized).jpeg
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All still run through tubing although the black black and blue scheme would easily blend on its own. 4A1A8F49-519B-4E0F-9E4C-A3B27F93F883 (resized).jpeg4A1A8F49-519B-4E0F-9E4C-A3B27F93F883 (resized).jpeg

Unlike the factory wire that really clashed against the backboard especially if it is clean. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

Ramps are starting to come together. 22BC168C-0A7A-4A97-9272-B575FE677945 (resized).jpeg22BC168C-0A7A-4A97-9272-B575FE677945 (resized).jpeg

#171 5 years ago

Peasant ramps are done.
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MM 1 4F7AA1E9-2E9C-495E-8C48-D8FDC8904D1A (resized).jpeg4F7AA1E9-2E9C-495E-8C48-D8FDC8904D1A (resized).jpeg

Or
MM 2?
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I don’t know on these now because it no longer matters they are identical E29950DF-E06C-44C4-B6BC-8CE474FE1153 (resized).jpegE29950DF-E06C-44C4-B6BC-8CE474FE1153 (resized).jpeg
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The look is much cleaner overall now when placed.
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#172 5 years ago

Troll assemblies will be next.
Starting with MM 1
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The carriages are broken and welded not only in the front but the rear. 1CC369D0-31A3-4278-83E0-39769D8119A2 (resized).jpeg1CC369D0-31A3-4278-83E0-39769D8119A2 (resized).jpeg

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Missing some parts or broken like the locators D56174BD-C539-4185-B86F-4E668B50345C (resized).jpegD56174BD-C539-4185-B86F-4E668B50345C (resized).jpeg

Flaps look ok but need to be redone DC18F51F-ECDF-4B1A-8D99-EB3F6161727D (resized).jpegDC18F51F-ECDF-4B1A-8D99-EB3F6161727D (resized).jpeg75D5FADF-1C71-4B8A-BDCC-CBDFA0475CB5 (resized).jpeg75D5FADF-1C71-4B8A-BDCC-CBDFA0475CB5 (resized).jpeg

#173 5 years ago

Torndown nothing really worth reusing maybe a few screws,springs and retainers.

1AD3698D-C54C-4B09-895A-82D181935F0C (resized).jpeg1AD3698D-C54C-4B09-895A-82D181935F0C (resized).jpegB1744EF6-0253-494F-92CE-A896F83BCA38 (resized).jpegB1744EF6-0253-494F-92CE-A896F83BCA38 (resized).jpegB63C761B-D729-4456-87C2-78F82A6FBCD8 (resized).jpegB63C761B-D729-4456-87C2-78F82A6FBCD8 (resized).jpegBDA5E038-1A87-41CF-925A-5581E732870F (resized).jpegBDA5E038-1A87-41CF-925A-5581E732870F (resized).jpeg

#174 5 years ago

New parts will be the heads these will have light up eyes since we need new ones anyway,troll washers and switches 6247B689-D001-4CD5-8F10-077C32BAB8EB (resized).jpeg6247B689-D001-4CD5-8F10-077C32BAB8EB (resized).jpeg

New carriages,locators and the very important but often missing insulators. 8A72D9B8-6E8B-4737-AB80-6578036BBEC6 (resized).jpeg8A72D9B8-6E8B-4737-AB80-6578036BBEC6 (resized).jpeg

New high quality flap decals. These are the grainier /textured variety. Not the cheap glossy vinyl ones. C439F997-87DA-461B-B543-389C5A61B038 (resized).jpegC439F997-87DA-461B-B543-389C5A61B038 (resized).jpeg

So we start here. 0E7A592A-C209-4943-99C7-C7382B0AA5FF (resized).jpeg0E7A592A-C209-4943-99C7-C7382B0AA5FF (resized).jpeg

#175 5 years ago

First the flaps. B18D6439-03D8-4E47-AF4C-D84BAEF65209 (resized).jpegB18D6439-03D8-4E47-AF4C-D84BAEF65209 (resized).jpeg

Remove the decals
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soak in adhesive remover. 70618ED0-C217-4640-843B-B1D79574D9E5 (resized).jpeg70618ED0-C217-4640-843B-B1D79574D9E5 (resized).jpeg

Softens the glue90B568DC-6BD8-4E7F-99FD-8898AAD32429 (resized).jpeg90B568DC-6BD8-4E7F-99FD-8898AAD32429 (resized).jpeg

Glue removed. 3E30B0C1-5C6D-4FB0-80AD-0D2BD5105CAB (resized).jpeg3E30B0C1-5C6D-4FB0-80AD-0D2BD5105CAB (resized).jpeg

Flaps and rusty retainers will be metal etched. 28FD6F6A-B781-4355-80F3-A7122FE24110 (resized).jpeg28FD6F6A-B781-4355-80F3-A7122FE24110 (resized).jpeg

Flaps etched.
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Now ready to decal 6251209C-93BE-4638-89AF-D23E5CE13A9E (resized).jpeg6251209C-93BE-4638-89AF-D23E5CE13A9E (resized).jpeg

Decaled I will detail the exposed rivets later instead of leaving them black
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#176 5 years ago

Now the trolls and carriages

New trolls mounted to new switches. 98F932E3-D733-412E-8F59-914B226C699D (resized).jpeg98F932E3-D733-412E-8F59-914B226C699D (resized).jpeg

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Before placing in the carriages it is important to have the insulator. 6EC1178F-F3CC-4386-B4B9-6A4CC0DA9F3A (resized).jpeg6EC1178F-F3CC-4386-B4B9-6A4CC0DA9F3A (resized).jpeg
Without the insulators the sides of the switch blades can short against the sidewall of the switch mount in the carriages "[att=4526187,1341222 caption=""[att=4526187,1341222 caption="

#177 5 years ago

The insulator in place.
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Crock clips cut from the troll eye lights.
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Flaps installed 0A4592BE-76A3-4F7D-9121-F89990217144 (resized).jpeg0A4592BE-76A3-4F7D-9121-F89990217144 (resized).jpeg

Light portion wire routed and locators installed. 5966C4E6-15D7-491A-9168-4685007A5C6D (resized).jpeg5966C4E6-15D7-491A-9168-4685007A5C6D (resized).jpeg

#178 5 years ago

Now for the switch wiring.
The correct combination are found for the left and right using the manual 958F287E-A271-4DC5-B406-9305FE00B495 (resized).jpeg958F287E-A271-4DC5-B406-9305FE00B495 (resized).jpeg

The switch wires are soldered. 2B3ACA02-D0D6-48A4-913D-1DC49EC96A32 (resized).jpeg2B3ACA02-D0D6-48A4-913D-1DC49EC96A32 (resized).jpeg

Troll wires don’t have a lot of space and the likelihood of the wires insulation being cut is higher because the way the blades are configured.Mostly it is the white switch wires that are in danger 4703F5A9-C0B6-46F7-B1FA-3C4015ACE3DE (resized).jpeg4703F5A9-C0B6-46F7-B1FA-3C4015ACE3DE (resized).jpeg

An individual sleeve is made for that.
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#179 5 years ago

Wires are then bundled and run as a group through clear protective tubing and zip tied as originally to the carriage housing. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

The new lighted eyes are placed on there own plug that I will make a mate with within the games GI harness later. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

Troll carriages for MM 1 are finished.

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#180 5 years ago

Now for MM 1 troll mechs

The mechs were torndown earlier this week so the brackets could be plated.

The hardware needs to be cleaned and polished first.

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The hardware is prepped and polished. All came out nicely.

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#181 5 years ago

Now I need to talk about the brackets.
MM 1 is not a true sample game but it does use the first run troll mech brackets. 26BFFA9B-A744-4BC2-AB5C-9EABFC9F4B09 (resized).jpeg26BFFA9B-A744-4BC2-AB5C-9EABFC9F4B09 (resized).jpeg

Here is what that means technically although both versions work fine.

The first generation bracket (top)has a large stopper plug hole than the second generation(bottom) AB18DEB4-B8A1-4AC5-91BE-D40AF2B24175 (resized).jpegAB18DEB4-B8A1-4AC5-91BE-D40AF2B24175 (resized).jpeg

Because of that they use a different style stopper plug
Generation 1 uses the large round version
Generation 2 uses the smaller grommet style. 6D3023B2-BF4E-4F3A-8D23-677314C5E6E3 (resized).jpeg6D3023B2-BF4E-4F3A-8D23-677314C5E6E3 (resized).jpeg

Generation 1 (right)mounting points are shaped a bit different than generation 2(left)
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Lastly the switch mounting tabs are also shaped different with Generation 1(right) have a botched cut out and generation 2(left) is solid. 6210F96E-1B28-4820-BBB6-7F3C9B093F34 (resized).jpeg6210F96E-1B28-4820-BBB6-7F3C9B093F34 (resized).jpeg

#182 5 years ago

Ok so now we know that we can’t mix the brackets together and what to look for.
The coils are checked and found to be good so they will be cleaned relabeled,rewired and resleeved 09566EA0-014A-4DF6-956F-692DD9218791 (resized).jpeg09566EA0-014A-4DF6-956F-692DD9218791 (resized).jpeg

Coils are in order and placed in the housing. The wiring is new and extended. FB46AB80-488A-43EA-9045-5CCCDBE90D43 (resized).jpegFB46AB80-488A-43EA-9045-5CCCDBE90D43 (resized).jpeg

New correct style stopper plugs. I like black when I have choice. Easy to keep clean. F5ACA97F-FC71-4755-AEC0-7FAA5EEA7BFD (resized).jpegF5ACA97F-FC71-4755-AEC0-7FAA5EEA7BFD (resized).jpeg

The main reason plating is most ideal on a part like this is that with the well nut inserts it is pretty tough to get a good consistent polishing and corrosion removal.
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New switch and wiring F35ECF72-F04F-4FB9-B2EB-C5567F6CD288 (resized).jpegF35ECF72-F04F-4FB9-B2EB-C5567F6CD288 (resized).jpeg

#183 5 years ago

Troll mechs for MM 1 are done.

MM 2 will be done the same way but with Red trolls.

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#184 5 years ago

MM 2 trolls done

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#185 5 years ago

The needs of MM 1 at this point are starting to get a bit more in focus so I am going to concentrate on it most of the week and go through everything before gutting MM 2

Remaining on my bench so far from MM 1 was the knocker.
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Knocker done.

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#186 5 years ago

Ready to harvest some more parts from MM 1
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My biggest goal right now is gutting it and getting parts separated into a few categories
Trash I use an old cash box

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Useable or essential cabinet hardware
42FB9ACA-91D9-4220-9396-E39B18B06AC3 (resized).jpeg42FB9ACA-91D9-4220-9396-E39B18B06AC3 (resized).jpeg

Black parts(cabinet bolts,specific MM parts)
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Plastic parts(looms,post etc)
2CD04AD7-B7D6-4C6B-9B2E-BDA26783E08B (resized).jpeg2CD04AD7-B7D6-4C6B-9B2E-BDA26783E08B (resized).jpeg

Useable and essential playfield parts
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So as an example when tearing down a screw like this is trash
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I will pull a new one at this time and throw it in the useable playfield parts cup. E33E8BD4-8BEC-4A5F-99F9-2A52C73EA956 (resized).jpegE33E8BD4-8BEC-4A5F-99F9-2A52C73EA956 (resized).jpeg

#187 5 years ago

Pulling the wiring harnesses
Starting with the opto and solenoid
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Filthy really filthy!
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Electrical tape
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Painted connectors
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Masking tape
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#188 5 years ago

Then the lamp harness more of the same.
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#189 5 years ago

These are going to need a lot of attention and extra effort.
First thing to do when they are this dirty is soak them.
Soaking them in a combination or orange cleaner and soapy water. D15D999A-473C-4F73-B5BD-82A5A0701DC3 (resized).jpegD15D999A-473C-4F73-B5BD-82A5A0701DC3 (resized).jpeg
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Have to go heavy and break out the power washer. I can think of like 4 times in 16 years that has happened. Sockets are coming around. 72F229FE-5CE3-4324-9C9F-EB05D2FA8E1D (resized).jpeg72F229FE-5CE3-4324-9C9F-EB05D2FA8E1D (resized).jpeg
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#192 5 years ago

Harnesses are off cleaned and drying for MM 1
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Playfield is out of the cabinet.
Can get a better look at remaining mechs. E7EE8EE6-5AC6-4EC7-B038-6707FD5918FB (resized).jpegE7EE8EE6-5AC6-4EC7-B038-6707FD5918FB (resized).jpeg

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#193 5 years ago

Cabinet wiring is removed and cleaned next. E3EDEAA0-B151-4BAF-B465-E33BE685B601 (resized).jpegE3EDEAA0-B151-4BAF-B465-E33BE685B601 (resized).jpeg5E7FE984-480C-4802-BD24-9D44C479CF2A (resized).jpeg5E7FE984-480C-4802-BD24-9D44C479CF2A (resized).jpeg

Found some cards in there always kind of neat to try and figure out the life of the game
I imagine this guy was possibly the engineer behind the creative fixes in Brazil?
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This guy was probably a local tech that was in way over his head trying to plug holes in this sinking ship F3376BFE-A652-4334-A463-FE2BC5163C41 (resized).jpegF3376BFE-A652-4334-A463-FE2BC5163C41 (resized).jpeg

No idea really but fun to guess and free advertising for both.

#195 5 years ago

I have had my afternoon workout , shower now drinking my evening beer so no dirty work for me.
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I think I will close out the plastics and ramps for MM 1 first. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

I have to say I have never seen this particular plastic broken before and that says a lot.
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Starting with the moat

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#196 5 years ago
Quoted from RVApinballer:

On the topic of Dragons, Chris can you tell us what is the correct bulb to use for the flasher IN the dragon itself? I see some say 906 isn't the best one and that some other special bulb is needed. Will 906 work with no damage to the game?

Technically the 906 is the correct one because that is what was there from the factory.

These days I like the Comet red flasher pictured even if you were running incandescent bulbs in the rest of the game it does a better job lighting the dragon up because of the multiple directions it flashes.

The real issue in my eyes is the dragon body is not transparent at all so nothing does a real good job lighting it up but that LED does a better job than a standard 906

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#197 5 years ago

Moat for MM 1 needs a lot of help.
Really we just need a new moat,sockets,bulbs,switch and wiring
Okay an all new moat. 86599255-3B69-43EB-A663-27E40B52AA2E (resized).jpeg86599255-3B69-43EB-A663-27E40B52AA2E (resized).jpeg
So these moats can be hit and miss to find. Often out of stock I found this one at Marco when others were out of stock so there may be a better or worse one available today but when I was gathering parts this is what I could find. A little opaque or frosted looking underneath but shiny inside.
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Since I need to build it up from scratch I can choose the socket styles I think would work best.
Original is the 89 round style
But there is no reason I cannot use the 904 wedge style
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I think with the use of LEDs these days and how far that has come that I like the cleaner look and ease of bulb changes with the wedge style so I will go that route for MM 1. It needs everything anyway let’s do the best we can to improve it. 3352337A-6A31-4551-843D-3C2945FD334D (resized).jpeg3352337A-6A31-4551-843D-3C2945FD334D (resized).jpeg

Sockets in place.

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#200 5 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I think the wedge sockets have less resistance to vibration than the bayonet Style.
I think that's why they are used in some places and not others.
Just a guess.

That is probably a really valid point and observation for the time this game was built.
I think these will work well now with the tight fitting LEDs. The main thought I had with the change was the ease to just push the bulb in verses the twist needed for the 89 style. Should be the best of both worlds moving forward.

#201 5 years ago

Moat for MM 1 is done.

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#204 5 years ago

Today I am going to finish gutting MM 1 s cabinet and do the stripping repairing and priming.
All before lunch I think.
We will see.

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#206 5 years ago

Cabinet is gutted but I need to go a little farther on this one.
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That step further will be removing some of the internal blocking so I can do a more thorough job on the inside.

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#207 5 years ago

Blocking is out.

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#208 5 years ago

Lower ready to strip.

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#209 5 years ago

MM 1 right side stripped
I will strip and repair one side at a time for maximum efficiency. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

Looks solid overall does have several small screw holes in it.

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#210 5 years ago

Repairs made right side MM 1
This will continue per side.
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#211 5 years ago

I will use a new head for MM 1

I need to check the fit of the translite and speaker panel before I get too deep into the refinishing. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

I will mock that up real quick with my shop blank speaker panel and the games actual translite panel.

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In order to do that I need to install the speaker panel locking pins.
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The go on the inside lower left and right
Roughly here.
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I made a template long ago out of fishpaper.
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#212 5 years ago

Pins installed. A2DF70BE-D187-426B-B586-40579931378C (resized).jpegA2DF70BE-D187-426B-B586-40579931378C (resized).jpeg53D4BCF5-D2B3-4BAF-A045-49693A8E5EBE (resized).jpeg53D4BCF5-D2B3-4BAF-A045-49693A8E5EBE (resized).jpeg

Speaker panel
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Translite panel. All good.

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#213 5 years ago

The new head is prepped by filling the grain in the face and any nail holes.

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#214 5 years ago

Bottom is next while the filler cures in the head.
Lots of staples in it for some reason.

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#215 5 years ago

MM 1 Bottom is sanded clean and checked over for any problems.
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The holes are also cleaned out. 0138303B-E076-4C9D-9625-6525E273864B (resized).jpeg0138303B-E076-4C9D-9625-6525E273864B (resized).jpeg

Bottom underside ready.

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#220 5 years ago

Repairs are complete.
Now I can sand the floor clean and focus on the interior.

All screw holes are filled inside as well as staple marks so I can start with a blank canvas there. 91CA3D2B-DDE1-487F-90A8-EC1FC757A180 (resized).jpeg91CA3D2B-DDE1-487F-90A8-EC1FC757A180 (resized).jpeg

Now for the floor. Might take a bit.

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#222 5 years ago

Floor is roughed in and I can now detail it and mask it for primer.

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#224 5 years ago

Ready to mask both sides of the floor.

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#225 5 years ago

Masked. Ready to prime.

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#227 5 years ago

Primed.

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#228 5 years ago

Guidecoated.
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Time for a workout
Busy day so I am going to have to keep it short and simple and just put a few miles on the old elliptgo.

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#231 5 years ago
Quoted from shirkle:

Didn't think I'd see an EliptiGo on a pinside thread. I got the same one (Arc 3, right?) for the cross country team I coach. I can't believe how much I like riding that thing.

I think it is an ARC 8

Got it when they only had one ARC model.
Just did 5 Miles but could go for a few hours if I started out fresh.
In between the cabinet restoration this morning and the heat that was all I had.

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#233 5 years ago

Now I am ready to tackle some of the cabinet parts taken out of MM 1 this morning.
Worst things first is what I like to try to stick to so going to start with the power box.
That receptacle mounted to the floor was a junction
Why ?Could only imagine. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

The box itself is equally interesting.
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That wad of electrical tape actually houses a switch
Which would you like
110?
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
How about double that ?
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The choice is yours but that option is on the way out.

#234 5 years ago
Quoted from Squeakman:

Chris come on out to Arizona and I can promise you 115 degrees or above. 91 is a cake walk for us.

I hear you. It is the humidity down here that makes it tough.90 here feels like 100 and 100 feels like hell.

#235 5 years ago

Powerbox MM 1 torndown.

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#236 5 years ago

Power box for MM 1 is rebuilt. I
Used new insulated cord stock in place of the flat cord because it offers a little more protection and a cleaner look and is readily on hand here.
It isn’t something I would arbitrarily do but since it was needed anyway it works well.

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#237 5 years ago

Ok it is after 6 and it is Tuesday so...
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Should help dull the pain of the evenings work.
I am going to start working through the coil assemblies.
Worst jet bumpers I have ever seen and with 3 to 6 per game normally and hundreds of games done that is saying a lot.

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#238 5 years ago

Flippers are not much better.

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#240 5 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Gotta love it. Threaded rod end breaks off of a pop bumper ring, weld it on. Flipper base plate breaks, weld the piece back on.
They had a welder. They probably didn't have parts.
LTG : )

they were welders at heart.
Between the flippers and the pops I walk away with two brackets,two secondary brackets and a lone plunger.
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All the rest goes in the trash.

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#242 5 years ago
Quoted from Tomass:

I would bet money that the trashed one came from somwhere that works on pins or even restores them, and this was used as a donor to many machines over a long period of time, swapping back in the hacked/broken parts, and then sold as a project machine.

I think that a lot of the reason reimported games get a bad reputation is because of a game like this MM 1
The thing is though that some of these countries have virtually no access to the needed parts so the guys there do whatever they can to keep the games working. Especially if the work was done before the widespread internet access and in the dark days of the hobby between Williams closing the Pinball division and the parts market picking back up.
I can appreciate and respect that for sure.
Undoing it and taking it from trash to treasure is fun too.

#245 5 years ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

Regarding the diluted Simple Green and soaking wiring: Any concerns of contaminants or cleaner getting trapped in the wire (i.e. think longevity - years or decades later?)
I've seen a fair number of people use this method, but have been always hesitant and still clean wires by hand. Do you warm the wiring to try to evaporate and residual water (sorry if missed it if mentioned)?

I actually do not use Simple Green personally because I think it has some corrosive properties.
Orange based cleaners are my preference because they do not.
No long term concerns as long as you do a thorough job of rinsing and blowing all the connectors dry soon after the soak.
That gap between the soak,rinse and dry if too long is where you could risk contamination.

#247 5 years ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

Oops about Simple Green - missed you mentioned it was orange based. Wouldn't have thought about the difference tho - good comment.
I actually looked up Simple Green and it is indeed corrosive and they mentioned guidelines on proper usage (mostly cleaning time and rinsing). Orange cleaners, if they use the proper ingredients, are not corrosive. From one random seller's (EcoLink- Vortex) web site "This blend of natural ingredients is a 100% organic formulation representing a completely new approach in one step degreasing. It is non-corrosive and contains no petroleum distillates, halogenated solvents or alkalis." But it also sounds like some citrus based cleaners, if they go the cheap route, might still be corrosive. Depends on what part of the orange or additives they use. Of course I should add - I don't work for or sell Vortex. Just interesting reading!
Excellent answers. May have to rethink my laborious wire cleaning strategy and look closer at my cleaners!
Another seller even mentions 'non corrosive" on the label. Hmmm.[quoted image]

Yes the products and process are very important.
If you are just going for clean and not careful with products and process you will do more harm than good.
I have tried and studied most products and processes and settle on this method for the best cleaning and doing no harm.
There are products that clean faster and easier but it isn’t worth the issues they can create.
The main thing to look for with any cleaner is that it is non corrosive.
That is essential when doing this.

#248 5 years ago

Today I plan on painting MM 1 s cabinet.
I will start by prepping everything that I need to paint black

This will be the bolts, the hex post and new oak blocking for the inside.

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#249 5 years ago

Cabinet ready to sand.

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#251 5 years ago

Cabinet is sanded.

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#252 5 years ago

Did the backboard yesterday also when priming.
That will also be painted with the cabinet.
It gives everything a consistent finish. E8B095F2-1A26-4EA3-A9CC-B6B3F252EB36 (resized).jpegE8B095F2-1A26-4EA3-A9CC-B6B3F252EB36 (resized).jpeg304DB76B-7948-48CA-9935-52B31B9F5E34 (resized).jpeg304DB76B-7948-48CA-9935-52B31B9F5E34 (resized).jpegDA9D253D-2B80-4BF7-B355-6580B0BD025A (resized).jpegDA9D253D-2B80-4BF7-B355-6580B0BD025A (resized).jpeg

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#253 5 years ago

Bolts are prepped and block work drilled for countersink screws.

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#255 5 years ago

Everything is staged up for painting. Takes a bit of cleaning up
Covering stands
Positioning and securing the smaller parts so they won’t fly away when sprayed.

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#256 5 years ago

Based in black

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#257 5 years ago

Cleared will gloss down and level out a bit as it dries.
It is a matte finish so it goes on glossy and a little more grainy to start and does its thing as it cures.

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#258 5 years ago

Back to the coil assemblies.
Going to tackle them one at a time.
I started on the jet bumpers last night but didn’t get very far but there is plenty of time left in the day today.
Once these are done and a couple odds and ends we will be ready to start the reassembly of MM 1

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#259 5 years ago

Going to tax the coil drawer on this one. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

Gathering some of the known things I will need but no doubt that will change as I year into them.

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#260 5 years ago

Going to tax the hardware bins too
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Starting with the jet bumpers.
We need plungers image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

Armatures both steel and fiber
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Also all new screws.
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Coils sleeves and proper labels.
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Brackets and retainers. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
Springs
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Wire
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Molex connectors
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And pins
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#262 5 years ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

Do you make your own coil sleeve labels or do you use the ones planetary sells?
They just seem so expensive...

I buy theirs in bulk. They are expensive and they are not as sticky as I would like but I have a method of making them work well.
Anything I can buy off the shelf and work with is what I use normally because it frees me to focus on more important aspects of the jobs.

#263 5 years ago

MM 1 Jets are done with color correct wires. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
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For now actually nicer than MM 2s because those still have the generic wiring.
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#264 5 years ago

MM 1 autofire is next.
The bracket is trashed image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

The retainer is trashed
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The plunger is wrong
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So is the spring
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#265 5 years ago

Going to need a new bracket
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Coil sleeve and label although I must admit the generic one is pretty damn close to acceptable. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

Plunger,spring,grommet,retainer,nuts,wire,pins and connector. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

Ok everything

#266 5 years ago

MM 1 autofire coil done.

Clear protective tubing on the leads and run through shrink tube because where and the way it mounts on the playfield image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

MM 2 is now jealous with It’s short unprotected wires and plain orange wrapper
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#267 5 years ago

Let’s do the MM 1 trough next.
It isn’t as bad as the autofire

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Mostly just need a correct coil,sleeve and some better cosmetics.

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#268 5 years ago

MM 1 trough done.
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MM 2 looks more average now. Nice but average. Running the wrong coil as well AL -26-1500. Just the lug orientation to the left thoughimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

#269 5 years ago

MM 1 slings and associated parts.
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Missing sling switch bracket and the switches themselves are pretty rough. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

Corroded sling arms. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

Peeling coil labels and corroded brackets. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

#270 5 years ago

Will need
Labels,wiring,sleeves,arms,switches,brackets ,pins,connectors

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#271 5 years ago

Slings are done for MM 1

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New sling arms
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Switches that are now officially lefts and rights on plugs with thicker gauge chains,color correct wires and short protections. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
An upgrade over MM 2

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#275 5 years ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

He swaps them out for parts he's already had nickel plated

That pretty much sums it up

If I do need to manually polish then I use this.

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#276 5 years ago
Quoted from ctozzi:

Chris, can you link me to the correct molex crimpers you use, I've been looking for a set forever. This will get me to buy a set once and for all. My wife and I still talk about our stop at your shop years ago.

Depending on the task and size of the connector pins I use one of these two.
The yellow handled one is a Waldom w-HT1921
Red one is the w-HT1919

Those are good for the molex .062 and .093 pins

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#277 5 years ago

Flippers are done for MM 1

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#279 5 years ago

These POSs are next for MM 1
The moat popper needs pretty much everything.
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Merlin popper might have a a couple screws and retainer worth reusing.

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#280 5 years ago
Quoted from Atari_Daze:

Funny, I have a crimper question to, but it's for the insulated spade connectors, which tool is your preference for these?[quoted image]

I use these for that. The noted section where it has a flatter side.

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#281 5 years ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

What is your process for refinishing the metal on the mechs?
Details please and thx.

Polish the plunger.
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Chucked in the drill.

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Polish on the ragimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

Turn it
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Not too bad

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#283 5 years ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

MM1 so reminds me of an MB I did a number of years ago. Customer had decent MB, that would have been perfect for restoration. He thought it was too nice, so he sold it, bought a worse one and saved himself $1000.
Long story short, I ended up charging him more than the $1000 over the normal price because of what had to be replaced that normally wouldn't be. So in the end, the POS he sent me actually cost him more to restore.

Yeah. I always love those too nice to restore stories
What’s it here for then?

#284 5 years ago

Moat popper done. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

New extended wiring. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

Short and wiring protections
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This is better because as can be seen in MM 2 there is a good chance the wires could get smashed by the plunger or that other wires could touch coil leads. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

#285 5 years ago

Back to the MM 1 cabinet for a minute. Paint and clear are dry so I can screen the head

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#286 5 years ago

Can now prep MM 1 cabinet for the block work,decals braiding etc.

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Sanded to remove any specs of trash or grain image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

#287 5 years ago

Floor is unmasked 61445D3C-3306-41C3-A3F1-CAC9CBE4F081 (resized).jpeg61445D3C-3306-41C3-A3F1-CAC9CBE4F081 (resized).jpeg

There are some small screw holes that need to be filled for a nicer look. These are from that power box mod and who knows what else ?
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Since it is MDF I mix some oak wood dust with wood glue and wipe them 7934EA5B-DC00-45A2-A194-324E21F1E7FD (resized).jpeg7934EA5B-DC00-45A2-A194-324E21F1E7FD (resized).jpeg
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After it dries I sand it and they are camouflaged in and will be unnoticeable once the cabinet is built back up.MM traditionally has a bit of an oversprayed floor so I could go that route as well to further disguise it but knowing where the cabinet sheet goes etc no need at this point.

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#288 5 years ago

Cabinet is in the assembly room

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#289 5 years ago

The next step for MM 1s cabinet will be placing the blocking.

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#292 5 years ago
Quoted from Jvspin:

I'm curious, with all the work you do on connectors, is there a reason you don't use the molex ratcheting crimpers designed for those pins?

If it is these then I do use those but for the flat .100 and .156 Pins.
I think they would smash the tabs on the round pins though.

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#294 5 years ago

Merlin popper and gate actuators done. 621C20C8-4451-4B14-9284-268CDADA7C51 (resized).jpeg621C20C8-4451-4B14-9284-268CDADA7C51 (resized).jpegCA129270-6EDC-4DED-B416-A5596BBDB298 (resized).jpegCA129270-6EDC-4DED-B416-A5596BBDB298 (resized).jpegF00BEB0A-EE1A-442C-8DE0-1EEAFEF61B69 (resized).jpegF00BEB0A-EE1A-442C-8DE0-1EEAFEF61B69 (resized).jpeg
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Coils are adding up in the bin.

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Few more to work through this evening hopefully I can tackle the drawbridge mech.

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#295 5 years ago

Before I close out the MM 1 coils I want to go ahead and decal the cabinet so it can start bonding with the paint within what I consider the ideal window.

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#297 5 years ago
Quoted from lordloss:

Have you ever cut the old MDF out and put a new piece in? I assume you'd need to cut the back dado part of the cabinet out and hack the old piece out.

Long ago and I realized for me personally that if a game needs a new floor then you are better off just going with a new cabinet.

This game could have easily warranted a new lower cab as well but MM lowers strip easy enough and it was pretty solid so it seemed like recycling it would help the owner offset some of his other cost.

#298 5 years ago

Blocking and runners now in place.

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#299 5 years ago

Head decaled.
Edges will be finished tomorrow.
I want them to bond with the curing paint first

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#300 5 years ago

Lower decaled same story with the edges. Tomorrow for that.

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#301 5 years ago

Backboard is decaled at this time as well.

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#302 5 years ago

Final needed parts back from plating. I did have a spare moat popper plated.
Wondering if I should swap it in here for MM 1?

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#304 5 years ago
Quoted from lordloss:

How much does plating cost per machine on average?

For nickel mechs etc we charge $500 for the extra leg work.
Cost about $450 so it is incredibly profitable

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#306 5 years ago
Quoted from Ballypinball:

Now those decals look familiar Chris

Yes the cabinet ones definitely should.

#307 5 years ago

Cabinet decal edges are finished less one area I will highlight

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#308 5 years ago

MM edges are pretty easy all the way around with the small exceptions of the front mid left and right lightening accents.
First is alignment.
The front placement is crucial.
You want a perfectly centered start button hole.
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That is also going to dictate how well the other parts come together in terms of how the left and right accents line up with the front.
The are three points to connect on or come close to on the right
I always choose the highest accents when bridging all three together is not possible
That is for two reasons
The first is it is more obscured by the legs and the second is it is obviously better to connect two perfectly (uppers)instead of just one(lower)
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The left is similar but only has two accents to connect. When seeking a perfectly centered start button it makes for a pretty reasonable alignment overallimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

#309 5 years ago

When compared to the MM 2 factory alignment MM 1s is now more ideal. Particularly on the right.

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#312 5 years ago

So black works to finish the edges off everywhere but in those accent areas
At that point it is blue and white.
If it were cabinet wide I would mask and airbrush since it is just a few inches on each side I will use a series of paint pens and techniques to make a cleaner corner that isn’t just a black line.
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This won’t be perfection in the sense that it is going to be a perfect match but it will give the impression at a glance that the art wraps around where it looks like it should.
Up close not too bad image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
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But standing next to it. Much easier to appreciate.

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#313 5 years ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

2 questions:
1. What is the ideal window from cab paint to decal applicaiton?
2. only 1 day after for decal to bond with paint before trimming edges?
bonus question:
3. Where do you send mechs for plating? If you dont want to share your guys info, any tips on what to ask for/look for in a good plater to do mechs properly?

1)For what I use I like 24 hours but product lines and materials vary too much to say for any and all situations.

2) Definitely but I do not trim edges. Never have actually. I do use an exacto to cut out the bolt holes and things.

3) I use a local place have for about 15 years.
It has changed ownership at least three times and quality can be hit and miss.
Anytime it is a miss I just throw it back in with my next batch and they run it again. This is the luxury of local.
They don’t do mail orders or anything like that.
What you are looking for is something very simple. Nickel plating.
That is I think the first step in chrome plating so anyone that does chrome should be able to do it.

#315 5 years ago

Ready to ground braid.

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#316 5 years ago

Everything is measured and lightly sketched out to guide me with the braiding.

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#317 5 years ago

Braid is in with new leg plates and associated parts that attach to it
The leg plates get new longer screws in the corners specifically because I am reusing the old lower cabinet.

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I run my own patterns for a cleaner look and less waste but it accomplishes the same thing and that is grounding the various parts.

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#319 5 years ago

New door is placed.
Target foam is used to give it a softer footprint. 95CD0535-06A3-4935-A420-E463671B24F4 (resized).jpeg95CD0535-06A3-4935-A420-E463671B24F4 (resized).jpegD552EB99-CDD7-45F0-A400-11B2D49AA25C (resized).jpegD552EB99-CDD7-45F0-A400-11B2D49AA25C (resized).jpeg

New rails installed.

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#320 5 years ago

Lower moved into another room for final reassembly.

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#321 5 years ago

A few odds and ends to deal with to complete the MM 1 lower
The rear grille.
Bent up with a hole image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

Transformer. Dirty. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

Lockbar receiver painted silver and junky.

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#322 5 years ago

Grille is fixed up and then strategically positioned to further make the previous damage a non issue.

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#325 5 years ago

Transformer cleaned
Blackened
Installed.

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#328 5 years ago

I will assemble the head for MM 1 next.
I do not usually put too much effort into the metal panel for the boards but on a WPC -95 game a lot of it shows and this one was tarnished.

Pretty simple process
Remove the stand offs
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Put a fresh scotchbrite on the DA it doesn’t have to be round.
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Run across the panel.
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#329 5 years ago

New head is on lower for MM 1

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#330 5 years ago

Boards are installed in the head and wiring the cabinet for MM 1 is next.

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#332 5 years ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

The scotchpad doesn't remove the plating on the back panel? Thought that one was zinc plated too... (and loves to stain! ugh)

It is a pretty minimal method but I think that the panel is galvanized.
It could be rubbed with the metal polish to add a small layer of protection but that always turns them even uglier
I look at the parts use primarily which is a large ground plane and then consider the best way I can think of to clean it and not harm It’s purpose.
I have seen people powdercoat them,plate them all kinds of stuff which would look great but ruin or risk it.

#333 5 years ago

Cabinet is being wired then I can move to the playfield assembly. Starting in the head then working off that. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

In place of the clear tubing on the power box to transformer extension wiring it is run through black shrink instead. 7982D63C-0F9C-43A3-B32D-B540FC4796C0 (resized).jpeg7982D63C-0F9C-43A3-B32D-B540FC4796C0 (resized).jpeg71BAF3CC-4BE6-46B4-B796-71994B41ED3E (resized).jpeg71BAF3CC-4BE6-46B4-B796-71994B41ED3E (resized).jpeg

Lots of hacks to work around some are minor things like a little electrical tape on a chaffed wire or corroded connectors. 16274E08-DCF1-4EB9-B71D-7A6336F62992 (resized).jpeg16274E08-DCF1-4EB9-B71D-7A6336F62992 (resized).jpeg
To clean that up and get some consistent wiring lengths and color new sub assemblies are made. 9FD6ACB9-F65D-4E87-976C-161957A576BD (resized).jpeg9FD6ACB9-F65D-4E87-976C-161957A576BD (resized).jpegF2D3B855-307A-4543-B11B-0FC49228CA38 (resized).jpegF2D3B855-307A-4543-B11B-0FC49228CA38 (resized).jpeg

Other hacks require running new lengths of wire from farther back in the harness. 1D05190C-E9DF-4F0B-8552-9E980DE68EDE (resized).jpeg1D05190C-E9DF-4F0B-8552-9E980DE68EDE (resized).jpegF31026E5-D5B2-4343-9742-23B66CB14C84 (resized).jpegF31026E5-D5B2-4343-9742-23B66CB14C84 (resized).jpeg

#335 5 years ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

What did you use to clean and blacken the outside of the core?

Adhesive remover then black metal etch primer light coat.
That gives more of the blackened look compared to a black paint.

#336 5 years ago

Cabinet wiring and build complete for MM 1 less legs and labels that I will place towards the end image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

Compared now to MM 2

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#337 5 years ago

Now onto the playfields

Both MM 1 and MM 2 will get new playfields

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The availability and more recent quality of replacement playfields really makes it the best choice unless someone is dead set on having an original.
I do run into and accommodate that occasionally but the truth is when dealing with insert ghosting prone playfields like most WPC -95 it is a better long term solution
These Mirco playfields have been perfected by further sanding and polishing just to give a slighter level of perfection after they have settled. The holes have been cleaned out long before the process started which is why it isn’t documented this time around but I have many times before.
In the past they required much more rework but I am just not seeing that need from the more recent runs so hats off to Mirco on that.

The first step is to T nut them.
I only need MM 1s right now but it makes more sense to t but both while I am at it.

This is MM 1

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#338 5 years ago

Using the pulled playfield from MM 1 as a T nut template.
I will use all new t nuts in both playfields so I left them in the old one for a better guide at a glance.
Old MM 1 playfield topside . image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

Beside the replacement you can get a better sense of how much more vivid the new one is.
You just cannot take all the age out of a well used playfield without a total repaint. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

Similar story underneath image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
It is the little things too like chunks of wood missing
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Holes that need to be filled even underneath
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Holes from parts being repositioned many times.

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#339 5 years ago

The t nuts will be lightly tapped in place then sunk one at a time using this T nut tool that Jim McCune gave me a few year back.
Thanks again Jim!

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#341 5 years ago

This is my secret weapon.
I consider it a Swiss army box.
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Makes a great surface and height to tap in t nuts. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

Then it is a stand to draw them in with the tool. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

It is also a storage bin image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

And a couch when I need a break.

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#342 5 years ago

When doing the initial tap in of the t nut on the recessed holes using an old one upside down on the new one minimizes the impact by only focusing on the center point. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

#344 5 years ago
Quoted from Rondogg:

Love this. How much time do you think you save doing two of the same games at a time?

Probably just about an hour or two but those are usually frustrating hours pulling files or other reference materials.
What I am really able to do in this case is take a little of the sting of MM 1 away by being able to quickly glance at MM 2 instead of pulling up pictures or other documentation I normally work off of.

Even if you have done 40 of the same game there is only so much you retain and when one comes in really butched up it is hard to beat have a reasonable reference point on hand when you can.

#345 5 years ago

MM 1 and MM 2 playfields now t nutted.

MM has a lot of t nuts then X 2

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#346 5 years ago

MM 1 playfield is ready to build this game in general is going back close to stock with stainless trim so we will continue that style of build on the playfield
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This is what I could salvage or have added to and tumbled from MM 1
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I grained(and straightened) the ballguides earlier this week

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#348 5 years ago
Quoted from lordloss:

I never thought I'd see the day that most of the parts pictured are available to buy:[quoted image][quoted image]

It is definitely a nice safety net.
If I were going to buy one ball guide this is the one I would buy just for convenience.
It is a pain to regrain.
There is just something about the angle of it and the gate that makes it more trouble than the others.

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#349 5 years ago

Ball guides and jet bumpers in place.

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#350 5 years ago

Post , protectors and brackets are in place topside for MM 1

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#351 5 years ago

Trough in place along with some harder to reach in the cabinet parts.
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Now flipped and ready to build the underside.

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#352 5 years ago

Building up the underside of MM 1
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Catapult rebuilt and in place with protections .
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New correct troll targets will be wired in.
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New jet bumper switches and spoons.

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#353 5 years ago

The other targets will need to be replaced as well.
The Merlin bank is rough with chewed up plastic faces and corroded rivets. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

The catapult target is fairly new but incorrect. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

It should be a side terminal style to keep the wires tighter inside the playfield.
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This can be seen on MM 2

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#354 5 years ago

Also MM 1 will need all new switches and to have its crimp terminals eliminate
This is due to corrosion.
The pink center terminal can become unreliable on games with heavy corrosion making for an intermittent contact. Even on a good or new switch. 16CC0174-C528-43CA-8CA9-50A392FB9C6B (resized).jpeg16CC0174-C528-43CA-8CA9-50A392FB9C6B (resized).jpeg

When pulled you can see the corrosion. 5A2E1AF1-F3F4-4DBB-8DF4-4CB8EF08FEC4 (resized).jpeg5A2E1AF1-F3F4-4DBB-8DF4-4CB8EF08FEC4 (resized).jpeg2C5D33BC-C4CD-48A2-927B-F1B665FA283F (resized).jpeg2C5D33BC-C4CD-48A2-927B-F1B665FA283F (resized).jpeg

As a result all switches should be replaced and connector eliminated for The greatest reliability.
These will be rewired into sub assemblies as well for ease of servicing and to make sure there is adequate wire length after cutting back the corrosion within the wires themselves.

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#355 5 years ago

Sub assembly for this section is made up.
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Even though there are six individual wires it only requires a four pin connector because varies switches are run with various wires in common. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

The biggest advantage of this besides the elimination of the corroded wire and connectors is that now these sub assemblies can later be removed and single switches can be soldered in on a workbench instead of upside down in the game for more precise work.

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Running around the harness proofreading my work.
This is the proper configuration. I was probably copying the shooter switch which is upside down compared to the other two when mocking it up.

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#357 5 years ago

Merlin target bank is done image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

Left side lanes are done. Using the same plug and configuration as the right so they can be somewhat interchangeable
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Catapult target wiring is sleeved because it runs close to the side.

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#358 5 years ago

MM 1 Switch harness is done. That was a bit of a chore compared to the norm but it was worth it.
Sloppy mess right now but it is mapped well and will tuck away nicely as the build continues
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Every switch or bank has its own plug no matter how large or small.

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The jet switches and other well known short areas are fully protected
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This is a switch that commonly gets smashed or shorted/legs bent
Using MM 2 as an example of that I believe it is the pivot that can catch it occasionally
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The well protected version now in place. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

Trash from the switch harness.

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#360 5 years ago

Also working on the plastic set in anticipation of needing it soon.

Factory set uses white stand offs
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I prefer the look of black because it blends in better in my eyes.

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#361 5 years ago

Will place the underside boards now then start on the lamp harness.

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#362 5 years ago

Boards are placed on MM 1 as well as the troll solenoid assemblies because they go under the lamp boards.

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#363 5 years ago

Lamp harness roughly mapped out.
Lots of soldering ahead for tomorrow.

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#364 5 years ago

Ready to run the lamp harness for MM 1
It is at this time that I will start placing loom brackets and selecting appropriate loom sizes. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

The brackets used will be nickel plated version in comparison to the tumbled ones.

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#365 5 years ago

Starting at what I consider the end of this harness I am going to work from here
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around
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until I reach the other end
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Along the way I will replace many or most sockets depending on what I run into and I will eliminate all generic wiring in favor of color correct
Pictures are used to highlight how many sections that will be image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

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#366 5 years ago

Lamp harness is soldered in with new sockets and corrected wiring. GI taps were made for the troll eye lights image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
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The trash. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

#367 5 years ago

Now for the solenoid harness MM 1

Roughed in place.
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Will need to do a little reconfiguring and some repairs but not as much as was need on the switch and lamp harnesses.

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#368 5 years ago

MM 1 solenoid and opto harnesses are now in place and it is just about time to put the final brackets on and place it in the cabinet for power up.

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#370 5 years ago

Brackets are in place and it is ready to place in the cabinet.

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#371 5 years ago

MM 1 playfield is in the cabinet.

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#372 5 years ago

Powered up for initial testing.

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#375 5 years ago
Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:

One thing I have always found to be a pain in the ass is removing and installing the PF in the cabinet. Any techniques that you use to not jack up the inside of the freshly redone cabinet. The best I could come up with is the wife's assistance and a whole lot of heavy lifting and careful manipulation. Even stripped on the top it's pretty heavy and not easy handle by myself.

The best advice I can give is to leave the backboard off because it makes it easier to handle and that is one of the main cabinet scratchers.

One person in the front of the playfield one in the rear just ease it in.
Never fun or easy. My wife is my helper with that task as well.

#379 5 years ago

MM 1 and 2 are almost back in the same position at a glance side by side with MM 2 patiently waiting its turn.

I am a little torn as to which apron to place on MM 1
The cleared one or the standard gloss
Reason being. MM 1 is standard trim and heading down a very factory road by design/request.
MM 2 will go down a different path and might benefit more from the glossy apron.
Both aprons are in excellent condition at this point so it isn’t an up or down grade just about choices to complete the package.

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

#380 5 years ago

Ok I actually answered my own question.
The factory finish apron belongs on the factory trim. It just makes the most sense in the long run as this is a tale of two MMs.
Apron placed and dmd software loaded.

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#383 5 years ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

I'm still a noob at this, and one thing I've purposely done is to not take everything off at once. Just too many little do-dads that I'd forget where they went. Hundreds and hundreds of photos of everything, and possible every angle helps a lot. But I only tackle small sections at a time despite taking forever. More often than not, I almost cringe when I see one for sale that been 'stripped and cleaned' - worries me that they didn't put things back correctly.
How do you keep everything sorted out? Have you just done so many it's second nature? Got any of the factory assembly manuals (not a repair manual, but the build instructions for the worker bees)?
Sorry for all the questions!

Nothing fancy here. I take pictures and measure post .I categorize everything based on materials like playfield metal,cabinet metal, all plastic parts ,all black parts etc.
This question made me wonder when I did my first MM looks like my oldest picture documentation is 8/2003 so I have known the game well and studied often for 15 years.

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#384 5 years ago

Plastics are being placed.
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I think the black standoff’s are cleaner looking with the art than the white ones still on MM 2 for now image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

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#385 5 years ago

Now with MM 1 back to life and everything verified working so far I can catch the last few coils and assemblies needed to finish it up.
The ramps are already done so I am left with the following
A rough damsel ramp divetor mech. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
The drawbridge mech

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#386 5 years ago

The divertor from MM 1 rebuilt.

Not as pretty as some of the other assemblies but that is just because it uses that cardboard looking wrapper and the metal is different doesn’t polish up.
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Needed a new retainer and stop.

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#387 5 years ago

Now for what took me the rest of the day. That damn MM 1 drawbridge.

It was broken down and what you see in this picture is what is no good. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

With the exception of the pivot and drive gear I had good used parts to donate

This was the homemade pivot and in order to make that work pretty much the rest of parts shown were ruined. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

This is what would have been needed

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#388 5 years ago

As for building the replacement it started with a nice used housing. 22AAD8E5-1AC2-43A6-850A-E53E48B4D118 (resized).jpeg22AAD8E5-1AC2-43A6-850A-E53E48B4D118 (resized).jpeg

The gearbox was completely disassembled.
That proved to be a pain because a finish nail was used as a switch screw.
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The gears were all separated and lots of grease and sludge were removed.
All teeth were inspected and a new drive gear and switches/wires for those were 7C79A1FD-C419-4642-B568-BCE4DB0A1C5C (resized).jpeg7C79A1FD-C419-4642-B568-BCE4DB0A1C5C (resized).jpegCA599C83-E3C0-47D4-BB8C-CE87411CADB7 (resized).jpegCA599C83-E3C0-47D4-BB8C-CE87411CADB7 (resized).jpeginstalled.

#389 5 years ago

The motor was rewired with 18 gauge wire and really robust soldering to strengthen the motor tabs which can break easily. 44055275-CA7A-47B7-B299-633B89103C7F (resized).jpeg44055275-CA7A-47B7-B299-633B89103C7F (resized).jpeg

Brand new opto were used with new wiring

That wiring was run through clear tubing and that was doubled after it exited the housing. 9CF1CFD5-2703-402C-B0F7-1A821B80A84B (resized).jpeg9CF1CFD5-2703-402C-B0F7-1A821B80A84B (resized).jpeg6DC4CD1A-605C-45F3-A3D2-422CCA9F1A1D (resized).jpeg6DC4CD1A-605C-45F3-A3D2-422CCA9F1A1D (resized).jpeg7221ECCA-5A6B-4E19-90BF-3F2E2F4B7A0C (resized).jpeg7221ECCA-5A6B-4E19-90BF-3F2E2F4B7A0C (resized).jpeg

#390 5 years ago

A new coil was needed and as luck would have it I had an NOS one since it looks much better when a choice is possible over the wrapper for these coils in particular. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

A nice used drawbridge is installed with all new screws,nyliners,washers,clips and all the other things that were missing or ruined.

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#391 5 years ago

The drawbridge for MM 1 is now suitable for use.

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#392 5 years ago

Drawbridge installed.
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Ready to test.
Switches and function checked in drawbridge test image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

New opto pair and wiring checked in switch edges by passing finger between optos with drawbridge down.

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