(Topic ID: 222199)

HEP presents a Tale of Two Medieval Madnesses

By High_End_Pins

5 years ago


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  • Latest reply 5 years ago by pintechev
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There are 604 posts in this topic. You are on page 9 of 13.
#401 5 years ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

HEP,
This thread has been very intriguing to see the progress and attention to the detail. Now a sidebar question...maybe a new thread or add at the end of this one when finished that gives us a quick history about how you got to this level of detail? Obviously, it had to start at one point of just fixing a broken pin. But did the level of detail ramp up quickly or did it simply progress gradually? Did you learn to solder, understand any electronics, methods of cleaning, painting, etc. and was it self taught? Did you have some to help guide you on the way? By no means want you to spend a night typing a long story, but something brief would be rather interesting.

This is probably the best I can offer for that.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-evolution-of-hephigh-end-pins

#402 5 years ago

Perfect! Great reading the 'behind the scenes stories."

12
#403 5 years ago

MM 1 is done.

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#404 5 years ago

What do you use for those under playfield connectors? I like the idea.

#405 5 years ago

15 days from the start of this thread until the first is complete. That’s amazing!

#406 5 years ago

-

#407 5 years ago

Later today hopefully I can get MM 1 outside for final pictures. Until then I am going to start working on getting MM 2 caught up.
I don’t think it will be as wiring needy but having now finished MM 1 it makes MM 2 look nowhere near as nice as I thought it was at first
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

I start spotting little things intertwined with the wiring of MM 2 like wire nuts.
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Coils turned the wrong way.
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Jet bumpers with the washers on the wrong side. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

All easily taken care of but it just shows how what seemed like the standard to copy wasn’t as good as it seemed at a glance it just looked so much better than MM 1 the standard was lower.

#408 5 years ago

Will start the catching up with the plastics set.
I already have the ramps done so that is good.

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#409 5 years ago

MM 2 plastic set pulled
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I have a new set
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgbut will likely need to make up some more black stand offs as MM 1 hit the bin pretty hard.

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#410 5 years ago

This is how many I need. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

First soak them in bleche wite. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
Rinse. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
Now soak in alcohol.
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Pat dry.

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#411 5 years ago

Now a holder is made by securing flipped over tape with normally placed tape F247472C-6CA3-4F5F-B114-BB8A6A96B886 (resized).jpegF247472C-6CA3-4F5F-B114-BB8A6A96B886 (resized).jpeg

The standoff’s are placed on that to hold them. F9696CED-8A6B-40AE-992F-3CB12908E2FF (resized).jpegF9696CED-8A6B-40AE-992F-3CB12908E2FF (resized).jpeg

Plastic primer is needed for proper adhesion.
1370D259-283E-4247-9594-8540B04868FB (resized).jpeg1370D259-283E-4247-9594-8540B04868FB (resized).jpegDD82FE3E-6D88-4295-AA64-81F7A6079E9A (resized).jpegDD82FE3E-6D88-4295-AA64-81F7A6079E9A (resized).jpeg

Another holder is made and then they are flipped over for the same process other side.
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I watch What’s Happening while I wait for the primer to flash off.
Rerun can really dance for a big guy.

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#412 5 years ago

Side one is based in black. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

Then allowed to flash off before I flip them over and do side two

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#413 5 years ago

MM2 was feeling all cocky sitting next to MM1 when they first came in, being in so much better shape in comparison to the somewhat sad state of MM1. Now MM2 feels like a sad panda next to the new-found glory of MM1, and MM1 is feeling on top of the world. But, I have a feeling cool things are coming for MM2 that will vault it back to the top level, cannot wait!!

#414 5 years ago
Quoted from xsvtoys:

MM2 was feeling all cocky sitting next to MM1 when they first came in, being in so much better shape in comparison to the somewhat sad state of MM1. Now MM2 feels like a sad panda next to the new-found glory of MM1, and MM1 is feeling on top of the world. But, I have a feeling cool things are coming for MM2 that will vault it back to the top level, cannot wait!!

Yes. They are going to be on the same level quality wise but they will be a bit different for sure.

#415 5 years ago

While I wait for the base to flash off on the final pass of the standoff’s I will make the “lost plastic” that goes on the blank ball guide. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

I use the plastic pictured to do that.
Line up one hole and trace it out. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

Drill a hole and secure them together. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

#416 5 years ago

Using a grinder I rough it into shape. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

And there it is I will wash it ,watersand the edges and flame torch it next

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#417 5 years ago

MM 1 final pictures.
Cabinet.

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#418 5 years ago

Cabinet details.

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#419 5 years ago

MM 1 playfield.

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#420 5 years ago

Back of the playfield.

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#421 5 years ago

Inside.
Thank you J M Ratkos for the labels. Nice guy!
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#422 5 years ago

Underside.

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#423 5 years ago

Inside the head. No more masking tape

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#424 5 years ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

but will likely need to make up some more black stand offs as MM 1 hit the bin pretty hard.

Believe it or not, you can dye the natural color nylon stand-offs with plain 'ol RIT dye and it never chips off.

Deep black color because it absorbs into the plastic itself.

Fast, no waiting for paint to cure.

Kids who build computer rigs or 3D printer geeks will dye nylon in Green,Violet, Red or whatever

IMG_2899-medium-rez (resized).jpgIMG_2899-medium-rez (resized).jpg
#425 5 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Believe it or not, you can dye the natural color nylon stand-offs with plain 'ol RIT dye and it never chips off.
Deep black color because it absorbs into the plastic itself.
Fast, no waiting for paint to cure.
Kids who build computer rigs or 3D printer geeks will dye nylon in Green,Violet, Red or whatever[quoted image]

Thanks I had no idea but I am am a painter by trade so I usually gravitate towards what I know.

When it comes to other methods the problem is always the same. By the time I figure it and out wait for it to show up I could have just walked in the paint shop done them the way I know and and kept moving forward

#426 5 years ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

By the time I figure it and out wait for it to show up I could have just walked in the paint shop done them the way I know and and kept moving forward

Of course.

But if you can steal your wife's or mom's RIT dye, you can rock it out fast.

Most moms keep it on the shelf with the laundry detergent & bleach but YMMV (Your Mom May Vary)

#427 5 years ago

Beautiful! Thanks for taking the time to share your process.

#428 5 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Believe it or not, you can dye the natural color nylon stand-offs with plain 'ol RIT dye and it never chips off.
Deep black color because it absorbs into the plastic itself.
Fast, no waiting for paint to cure.
Kids who build computer rigs or 3D printer geeks will dye nylon in Green,Violet, Red or whatever[quoted image]

Also a handy technique for making custom colored pop bumper skirts, etc. Steve Young originally turned me onto this when I needed some purple skirts. I have found that the dye made for synthetic fabrics works really well.

#429 5 years ago

This sort of sums up a H.E.P. restore...before and after:
1 (resized).PNG1 (resized).PNG2 (resized).PNG2 (resized).PNG

#430 5 years ago

Beautiful restoration! A quick question, just curious why you went with a more glossy black on the cabinet than the factory flat back finish, is that for protection, personal preference?

Chris

#431 5 years ago
Quoted from CFoote:

Beautiful restoration! A quick question, just curious why you went with a more glossy black on the cabinet than the factory flat back finish, is that for protection, personal preference?
Chris

Thanks.
I see that asked occasionally depending on the build.
That is a base clear system I use and it can be tailored up or down in gloss level.
From full gloss to completely flat.
What is on that cabinet is an 80% gloss level and I would say the true factory level is about a 65%
I usually settle somewhere between 65-85% depending on how I feel that day or request.
What makes it look so refelective though are a few things.
First is that it is truly smooth and grain free.
The second is it is absolutely jet black.

The final thing is the depth of it being primed,based and cleared compared to just an enamel sprayed over bare wood.
The factory has little paint on it making it look even flatter than it really is.
Here is a close side by side to give a better feel since it can seem night and day at a glance.

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#432 5 years ago

Playfield is pulled from MM 2s cabinet.

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#433 5 years ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

Inside.
Thank you J M Ratkos for the labels. Nice guy!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

just to be clear, I just provided mr. hutchins with the 4" square manufacturer labels for these projects (not all of the stickers
(although I am working on some new, custom labels for him

#434 5 years ago

-

#435 5 years ago

MM 2 cabinet is gutted image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

Wiring was separated and cleaned. No power washer required.
1BC14388-F95D-4C79-A349-32CE37A8B96C (resized).jpeg1BC14388-F95D-4C79-A349-32CE37A8B96C (resized).jpeg3E02978B-EEA8-49A0-9386-EFC13C115D1F (resized).jpeg3E02978B-EEA8-49A0-9386-EFC13C115D1F (resized).jpeg

#436 5 years ago

Cabinet is ready to strip. 6CA99A45-E2BB-4B49-B61D-D3851DB60F89 (resized).jpeg6CA99A45-E2BB-4B49-B61D-D3851DB60F89 (resized).jpeg
Took about 3 minutes. EBB9D765-B400-45E7-99F2-4D2D2F0BC377 (resized).jpegEBB9D765-B400-45E7-99F2-4D2D2F0BC377 (resized).jpeg

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#437 5 years ago

Side two almost 3.5 minutes but my phone locked out and I had to put in my code

B9054BAB-CDD1-442C-A037-CB3A6F91F867 (resized).jpegB9054BAB-CDD1-442C-A037-CB3A6F91F867 (resized).jpegBDE81F88-0E5A-41E4-842A-20A98F21C7DE (resized).jpegBDE81F88-0E5A-41E4-842A-20A98F21C7DE (resized).jpegD5383B91-0B57-46DF-9BCB-13E6B0BBAF80 (resized).jpegD5383B91-0B57-46DF-9BCB-13E6B0BBAF80 (resized).jpeg
#438 5 years ago

Lower is being repaired now. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

Using a new head for MM 2 as well because it had broken joints Stripping and repairing this era head is rarely worth the trouble compared to new the lowers and other eras vary a little more.

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#439 5 years ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

Cabinet is ready to strip. [quoted image]
Took about 3 minutes. [quoted image]
[quoted image]

and there goes mccune's time out the window!
(meanwhile old man kelly is still figuring out how to plug in his orbital sander into the shop light outlet and wondering how long [clean up] afterwards will take since he doesn't own any festool products

#440 5 years ago
Quoted from j_m_:

and there goes mccune's time out the window!
(meanwhile old man kelly is still figuring out how to plug in hist orbital sander into the shop light and wondering how long [clean up] afterwards will take since he doesn't own any festool products

I heard that, asshole!!

#441 5 years ago

MM 2 playfield is stripped complete
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

What looked like a nice playfield at the beginning actually proves to have several issues.
The ones we already knew about like chipping and bordering.

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#442 5 years ago

The ones we didn’t know about until torndown. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

The Fight insert pictured is a factory flaw. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

Speaking of the inserts some are a bit worse than I thought after stripping and being able to examine from other angles.
The lock inserts in particular are raised.

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#443 5 years ago

Packing MM 1 for delivery.
It will be handed off to the owner in person.

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#444 5 years ago

MM 1 loaded up in the HEP shuttle.

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#445 5 years ago
Quoted from noitbe1:

Looks better than new. However i wonder if cliffys would be a nice add on with such a perfect result.

To me he added the most important protector which is the drawbridge / bridge protector from Mantis that saves the bare wood under the lock shot from taking a beating.

#446 5 years ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

Inside.
Thank you J M Ratkos for the labels. Nice guy!

What about the little serial label on the front? Too overkill?

E452C172-4812-4740-9CD9-DC43D5264193 (resized).pngE452C172-4812-4740-9CD9-DC43D5264193 (resized).png
#447 5 years ago

Leaving Charlotte.

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#448 5 years ago
Quoted from Duvall:

What about the little serial label on the front? Too overkill?[quoted image]

I've done those for chris in past as well. they are the same serial no. labels found on the pc boards. some of the older (system 3-11) bally and williams had done in print house and then printed the serial no's on them, while others were plain white (on BOPP material) and just contained the company name and serial no. I really need to invest in a cricut or something similar to kiss cut them (it's a huge pain to try and hand cut those tiny 1.5" x .5" stickers from a sheet

#449 5 years ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

Leaving Charlotte.
[quoted image]

at 0mph, you're going nowhere fast

#450 5 years ago

-

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