(Topic ID: 222199)
Linked Games
Medieval Madness
Williams, 1997
Topic Gallery
Matthews, NC
Final needed parts back from plating. I did have a spare moat popper plated.
Wondering if I should swap it in here for MM 1?
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Final needed parts back from plating. I did have a spare moat popper plated.
Wondering if I should swap it in here for MM 1?
[quoted image][quoted image]
How much does plating cost per machine on average?
Quoted from lordloss:How much does plating cost per machine on average?
For nickel mechs etc we charge $500 for the extra leg work.
Cost about $450 so it is incredibly profitable 
Melbourne
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Backboard is decaled at this time as well.
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Now those decals look familiar Chris 
Quoted from Ballypinball:Now those decals look familiar Chris
Yes the cabinet ones definitely should.
MM edges are pretty easy all the way around with the small exceptions of the front mid left and right lightening accents.
First is alignment.
The front placement is crucial.
You want a perfectly centered start button hole.
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That is also going to dictate how well the other parts come together in terms of how the left and right accents line up with the front.
The are three points to connect on or come close to on the right
I always choose the highest accents when bridging all three together is not possible
That is for two reasons
The first is it is more obscured by the legs and the second is it is obviously better to connect two perfectly (uppers)instead of just one(lower)
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The left is similar but only has two accents to connect. When seeking a perfectly centered start button it makes for a pretty reasonable alignment overallimage (resized).jpg
2 questions:
1. What is the ideal window from cab paint to decal applicaiton?
2. only 1 day after for decal to bond with paint before trimming edges?
bonus question:
3. Where do you send mechs for plating? If you dont want to share your guys info, any tips on what to ask for/look for in a good plater to do mechs properly?
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Backboard is decaled at this time as well.
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This is much, much better than factory due to it having a smooth look. Factory the decal is so bumpy due to the rough surface underneath and it's always driven me nuts. Lol
So black works to finish the edges off everywhere but in those accent areas
At that point it is blue and white.
If it were cabinet wide I would mask and airbrush since it is just a few inches on each side I will use a series of paint pens and techniques to make a cleaner corner that isn’t just a black line.
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This won’t be perfection in the sense that it is going to be a perfect match but it will give the impression at a glance that the art wraps around where it looks like it should.
Up close not too bad image (resized).jpg
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But standing next to it. Much easier to appreciate.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgQuoted from Whysnow:2 questions:
1. What is the ideal window from cab paint to decal applicaiton?
2. only 1 day after for decal to bond with paint before trimming edges?
bonus question:
3. Where do you send mechs for plating? If you dont want to share your guys info, any tips on what to ask for/look for in a good plater to do mechs properly?
1)For what I use I like 24 hours but product lines and materials vary too much to say for any and all situations.
2) Definitely but I do not trim edges. Never have actually. I do use an exacto to cut out the bolt holes and things.
3) I use a local place have for about 15 years.
It has changed ownership at least three times and quality can be hit and miss.
Anytime it is a miss I just throw it back in with my next batch and they run it again. This is the luxury of local.
They don’t do mail orders or anything like that.
What you are looking for is something very simple. Nickel plating.
That is I think the first step in chrome plating so anyone that does chrome should be able to do it.
Braid is in with new leg plates and associated parts that attach to it
The leg plates get new longer screws in the corners specifically because I am reusing the old lower cabinet.
E97E1609-90E2-4E3B-A200-F64EEFEE89DA (resized).jpegBED1C235-010B-4893-97F5-F9C17FE24CD1 (resized).jpeg20FBBAAB-402F-4640-851E-45DEC0139E80 (resized).jpeg
I run my own patterns for a cleaner look and less waste but it accomplishes the same thing and that is grounding the various parts.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgHa... I was just going to ask if you prefer following the factory paths for oem look... or if you optimize 
. Beat me to it!
A few odds and ends to deal with to complete the MM 1 lower
The rear grille.
Bent up with a hole image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
Transformer. Dirty. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
Lockbar receiver painted silver and junky.
image (resized).jpgChris you could write a book detailing every single step you take, which products you use and exactly the tools and technique to use and 99.9% of people could't hold a candle to your work. It blows my mind how damn perfect your ground braid placement is. I've watched tons of restoration vids over the years and even something such as ground braid is much harder to make look good than it seems.
Quoted from bobukcat:What, no pressure washer treatment for the transformer??
and the warranty is now void, since the sticker has been removed...
Yves
I will assemble the head for MM 1 next.
I do not usually put too much effort into the metal panel for the boards but on a WPC -95 game a lot of it shows and this one was tarnished.
Pretty simple process
Remove the stand offs
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Put a fresh scotchbrite on the DA it doesn’t have to be round.
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Run across the panel.
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image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgBoards are installed in the head and wiring the cabinet for MM 1 is next.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgThe scotchpad doesn't remove the plating on the back panel? Thought that one was zinc plated too... (and loves to stain! ugh)
Quoted from flynnibus:The scotchpad doesn't remove the plating on the back panel? Thought that one was zinc plated too... (and loves to stain! ugh)
It is a pretty minimal method but I think that the panel is galvanized.
It could be rubbed with the metal polish to add a small layer of protection but that always turns them even uglier
I look at the parts use primarily which is a large ground plane and then consider the best way I can think of to clean it and not harm It’s purpose.
I have seen people powdercoat them,plate them all kinds of stuff which would look great but ruin or risk it.
Cabinet is being wired then I can move to the playfield assembly. Starting in the head then working off that. image (resized).jpg
In place of the clear tubing on the power box to transformer extension wiring it is run through black shrink instead. 7982D63C-0F9C-43A3-B32D-B540FC4796C0 (resized).jpeg71BAF3CC-4BE6-46B4-B796-71994B41ED3E (resized).jpeg
Lots of hacks to work around some are minor things like a little electrical tape on a chaffed wire or corroded connectors. 16274E08-DCF1-4EB9-B71D-7A6336F62992 (resized).jpeg
To clean that up and get some consistent wiring lengths and color new sub assemblies are made. 9FD6ACB9-F65D-4E87-976C-161957A576BD (resized).jpegF2D3B855-307A-4543-B11B-0FC49228CA38 (resized).jpeg
Other hacks require running new lengths of wire from farther back in the harness. 1D05190C-E9DF-4F0B-8552-9E980DE68EDE (resized).jpegF31026E5-D5B2-4343-9742-23B66CB14C84 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Transformer cleaned
Blackened
Installed.
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What did you use to clean and blacken the outside of the core?
Quoted from mbwalker:What did you use to clean and blacken the outside of the core?
Adhesive remover then black metal etch primer light coat.
That gives more of the blackened look compared to a black paint.
Now onto the playfields
Both MM 1 and MM 2 will get new playfields
image (resized).jpg
The availability and more recent quality of replacement playfields really makes it the best choice unless someone is dead set on having an original.
I do run into and accommodate that occasionally but the truth is when dealing with insert ghosting prone playfields like most WPC -95 it is a better long term solution
These Mirco playfields have been perfected by further sanding and polishing just to give a slighter level of perfection after they have settled. The holes have been cleaned out long before the process started which is why it isn’t documented this time around but I have many times before.
In the past they required much more rework but I am just not seeing that need from the more recent runs so hats off to Mirco on that.
The first step is to T nut them.
I only need MM 1s right now but it makes more sense to t but both while I am at it.
This is MM 1
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgUsing the pulled playfield from MM 1 as a T nut template.
I will use all new t nuts in both playfields so I left them in the old one for a better guide at a glance.
Old MM 1 playfield topside . image (resized).jpg
Beside the replacement you can get a better sense of how much more vivid the new one is.
You just cannot take all the age out of a well used playfield without a total repaint. image (resized).jpg
Similar story underneath image (resized).jpg
It is the little things too like chunks of wood missing
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Holes that need to be filled even underneath
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Holes from parts being repositioned many times.
image (resized).jpgThis is my secret weapon.
I consider it a Swiss army box.
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Makes a great surface and height to tap in t nuts. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
Then it is a stand to draw them in with the tool. image (resized).jpg
It is also a storage bin image (resized).jpg
And a couch when I need a break.
image (resized).jpgQuoted from Rondogg:Love this. How much time do you think you save doing two of the same games at a time?
Probably just about an hour or two but those are usually frustrating hours pulling files or other reference materials.
What I am really able to do in this case is take a little of the sting of MM 1 away by being able to quickly glance at MM 2 instead of pulling up pictures or other documentation I normally work off of.
Even if you have done 40 of the same game there is only so much you retain and when one comes in really butched up it is hard to beat have a reasonable reference point on hand when you can.
MM 1 playfield is ready to build this game in general is going back close to stock with stainless trim so we will continue that style of build on the playfield
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This is what I could salvage or have added to and tumbled from MM 1
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I grained(and straightened) the ballguides earlier this week
image (resized).jpgQuoted from High_End_Pins:MM 1 playfield is ready to build this game in general is going back close to stock with stainless trim so we will continue that style of build on the playfield
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This is what I could salvage or have added to and tumbled from MM 1
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I grained(and straightened) the ballguides earlier this week
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I never thought I'd see the day that most of the parts pictured are available to buy:
pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from lordloss:I never thought I'd see the day that most of the parts pictured are available to buy:[quoted image][quoted image]
It is definitely a nice safety net.
If I were going to buy one ball guide this is the one I would buy just for convenience.
It is a pain to regrain.
There is just something about the angle of it and the gate that makes it more trouble than the others.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgPost , protectors and brackets are in place topside for MM 1
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgPromoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
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