Back to the coil assemblies.
Going to tackle them one at a time.
I started on the jet bumpers last night but didn’t get very far but there is plenty of time left in the day today.
Once these are done and a couple odds and ends we will be ready to start the reassembly of MM 1
Going to tax the hardware bins too
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Starting with the jet bumpers.
We need plungers image (resized).jpg
Armatures both steel and fiber
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Also all new screws.
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Coils sleeves and proper labels.
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Brackets and retainers. image (resized).jpg
Springs
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Wire
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Molex connectors
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Do you make your own coil sleeve labels or do you use the ones planetary sells?
They just seem so expensive...
Quoted from flynnibus:Do you make your own coil sleeve labels or do you use the ones planetary sells?
They just seem so expensive...
I buy theirs in bulk. They are expensive and they are not as sticky as I would like but I have a method of making them work well.
Anything I can buy off the shelf and work with is what I use normally because it frees me to focus on more important aspects of the jobs.
Quoted from Whysnow:What is your process for refinishing the metal on the mechs?
Details please and thx.
He swaps them out for parts he's already had nickel plated
Chris, can you link me to the correct molex crimpers you use, I've been looking for a set forever. This will get me to buy a set once and for all. My wife and I still talk about our stop at your shop years ago.
Quoted from flynnibus:He swaps them out for parts he's already had nickel plated
That pretty much sums it up
If I do need to manually polish then I use this.
image (resized).jpgQuoted from ctozzi:Chris, can you link me to the correct molex crimpers you use, I've been looking for a set forever. This will get me to buy a set once and for all. My wife and I still talk about our stop at your shop years ago.
Depending on the task and size of the connector pins I use one of these two.
The yellow handled one is a Waldom w-HT1921
Red one is the w-HT1919
Those are good for the molex .062 and .093 pins
image (resized).jpgQuoted from ctozzi:Chris, can you link me to the correct molex crimpers you use
Funny, I have a crimper question to, but it's for the insulated spade connectors, which tool is your preference for these?
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from Atari_Daze:Funny, I have a crimper question to, but it's for the insulated spade connectors, which tool is your preference for these?[quoted image]
I use these for that. The noted section where it has a flatter side.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgQuoted from Whysnow:What is your process for refinishing the metal on the mechs?
Details please and thx.
Polish the plunger.
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Chucked in the drill.
Polish on the ragimage (resized).jpg
Not too bad
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgMM1 so reminds me of an MB I did a number of years ago. Customer had decent MB, that would have been perfect for restoration. He thought it was too nice, so he sold it, bought a worse one and saved himself $1000.
Long story short, I ended up charging him more than the $1000 over the normal price because of what had to be replaced that normally wouldn't be. So in the end, the POS he sent me actually cost him more to restore.
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:MM1 so reminds me of an MB I did a number of years ago. Customer had decent MB, that would have been perfect for restoration. He thought it was too nice, so he sold it, bought a worse one and saved himself $1000.
Long story short, I ended up charging him more than the $1000 over the normal price because of what had to be replaced that normally wouldn't be. So in the end, the POS he sent me actually cost him more to restore.
Yeah. I always love those too nice to restore stories
What’s it here for then?
Moat popper done. image (resized).jpg
New extended wiring. image (resized).jpg
Short and wiring protections
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This is better because as can be seen in MM 2 there is a good chance the wires could get smashed by the plunger or that other wires could touch coil leads. image (resized).jpg
Floor is unmasked 61445D3C-3306-41C3-A3F1-CAC9CBE4F081 (resized).jpeg
There are some small screw holes that need to be filled for a nicer look. These are from that power box mod and who knows what else ?
7A80E39D-F8D9-41B8-993A-044B3A07C1A3 (resized).jpeg641587B4-3ECF-4166-AF9F-738F8F43AD9E (resized).jpeg
Since it is MDF I mix some oak wood dust with wood glue and wipe them 7934EA5B-DC00-45A2-A194-324E21F1E7FD (resized).jpeg
89AE36CD-001E-40DF-906D-56BF4D266123 (resized).jpeg3DCDF50B-C3DF-45F2-8291-375E53C369BF (resized).jpeg
After it dries I sand it and they are camouflaged in and will be unnoticeable once the cabinet is built back up.MM traditionally has a bit of an oversprayed floor so I could go that route as well to further disguise it but knowing where the cabinet sheet goes etc no need at this point.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Depending on the task and size of the connector pins I use one of these two.
The yellow handled one is a Waldom w-HT1921
Red one is the w-HT1919
Those are good for the molex .062 and .093 pins[quoted image]
I'm curious, with all the work you do on connectors, is there a reason you don't use the molex ratcheting crimpers designed for those pins?
Quoted from Jvspin:I'm curious, with all the work you do on connectors, is there a reason you don't use the molex ratcheting crimpers designed for those pins?
If it is these then I do use those but for the flat .100 and .156 Pins.
I think they would smash the tabs on the round pins though.
Merlin popper and gate actuators done. 621C20C8-4451-4B14-9284-268CDADA7C51 (resized).jpegCA129270-6EDC-4DED-B416-A5596BBDB298 (resized).jpegF00BEB0A-EE1A-442C-8DE0-1EEAFEF61B69 (resized).jpeg
BCB9B8EA-D0DD-4473-90CB-CC013CBF3560 (resized).jpeg
Coils are adding up in the bin.
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Few more to work through this evening hopefully I can tackle the drawbridge mech.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Floor is unmasked [quoted image]
There are some small screw holes that need to be filled for a nicer look. These are from that power box mod and who knows what else ?
[quoted image][quoted image]
Since it is MDF I mix some oak wood dust with wood glue and wipe them [quoted image]
[quoted image][quoted image]
After it dries I sand it and they are camouflaged in and will be unnoticeable once the cabinet is built back up.MM traditionally has a bit of an oversprayed floor so I could go that route as well to further disguise it but knowing where the cabinet sheet goes etc no need at this point.
[quoted image]
Have you ever cut the old MDF out and put a new piece in? I assume you'd need to cut the back dado part of the cabinet out and hack the old piece out.
Quoted from lordloss:Have you ever cut the old MDF out and put a new piece in? I assume you'd need to cut the back dado part of the cabinet out and hack the old piece out.
Long ago and I realized for me personally that if a game needs a new floor then you are better off just going with a new cabinet.
This game could have easily warranted a new lower cab as well but MM lowers strip easy enough and it was pretty solid so it seemed like recycling it would help the owner offset some of his other cost.
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