Matthews, NC
Moat for MM 1 is done.
image (resized).jpg(Topic ID: 222199)
Linked Games
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Medieval Madness
Williams, 1997
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Seeing that business card with the Nextel number on it sure dates the game.
I rember being in restaurants and hearing the chirp. And everyone checking their phones.
I like how you just casually toss all the reusable parts into a bucket, not worrying at all about where they will all go later, well, because, you’ll know! 
I would be paralyzed with fear for each piece that I will never remember how to put it back, taking 12 pictures of it in place, making drawings and maps for later, etc. And still probably wouldn’t be able to figure it out when it comes time to reassemble.
Today I am going to finish gutting MM 1 s cabinet and do the stripping repairing and priming.
All before lunch I think.
We will see.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgI had no idea how much went into one of your restorations - so over the top impressive - thanks for sharing
MM 1 right side stripped
I will strip and repair one side at a time for maximum efficiency. image (resized).jpg
Looks solid overall does have several small screw holes in it.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgRepairs made right side MM 1
This will continue per side.
31977216-4845-4EFB-A57E-8A297BAA1E72 (resized).jpeg
image (resized).jpgI will use a new head for MM 1
I need to check the fit of the translite and speaker panel before I get too deep into the refinishing. image (resized).jpg
I will mock that up real quick with my shop blank speaker panel and the games actual translite panel.
In order to do that I need to install the speaker panel locking pins.
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The go on the inside lower left and right
Roughly here.
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I made a template long ago out of fishpaper.
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image (resized).jpgPins installed. A2DF70BE-D187-426B-B586-40579931378C (resized).jpeg53D4BCF5-D2B3-4BAF-A045-49693A8E5EBE (resized).jpeg
Speaker panel
622ADB8F-6F41-4203-946D-B67562B0234B (resized).jpeg57C1315F-C9CF-4C0D-B5AD-75574C62C449 (resized).jpeg
Translite panel. All good.
C466225B-0E8C-4197-B59E-5B874F5CB7D0 (resized).jpegMM 1 Bottom is sanded clean and checked over for any problems.
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The holes are also cleaned out. 0138303B-E076-4C9D-9625-6525E273864B (resized).jpeg
Bottom underside ready.
image (resized).jpgQuoted from Jvspin:If you don't mind sharing, how did you strip the bottom cabinet decals so quickly?
I'm guessing it is something like this.
four minutes - Crazy
Livin' on the wild side by doing that with no respirator unless that vacuum and filter is running behind him, but still.
Quoted from sohchx:Livin' on the wild side by doing that with no respirator unless that vacuum and filter is running behind him, but still.
Yes, those festol tools are vacuum and filtered... which is why he can do that job without the mess or any clogging. And why they cost thousands
You're a beast. It would be a full a time job for me just to document all this, much less do the work. Paying it forward with repair & restoration knowledge is the lifeblood of pinball collecting. From RGP, to Clay's guides, and now these amazingly detailed process threads. Kudos.
Quoted from flynnibus:Yes, those festol tools are vacuum and filtered... which is why he can do that job without the mess or any clogging. And why they cost thousands
Well then, in that case...… WANT!!!
Quoted from shirkle:Didn't think I'd see an EliptiGo on a pinside thread. I got the same one (Arc 3, right?) for the cross country team I coach. I can't believe how much I like riding that thing.
I think it is an ARC 8
Got it when they only had one ARC model.
Just did 5 Miles but could go for a few hours if I started out fresh.
In between the cabinet restoration this morning and the heat that was all I had.
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Now I am ready to tackle some of the cabinet parts taken out of MM 1 this morning.
Worst things first is what I like to try to stick to so going to start with the power box.
That receptacle mounted to the floor was a junction
Why ?Could only imagine. image (resized).jpg
The box itself is equally interesting.
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That wad of electrical tape actually houses a switch
Which would you like
110?
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How about double that ?
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The choice is yours but that option is on the way out.
Quoted from Squeakman:Chris come on out to Arizona and I can promise you 115 degrees or above. 91 is a cake walk for us.
I hear you. It is the humidity down here that makes it tough.90 here feels like 100 and 100 feels like hell.
Powerbox MM 1 torndown.
1942CBD0-B2C9-40C3-853C-4C85CA18F0D4 (resized).jpeg22AB0ABF-9324-4DA0-ABC4-1F3073EFD671 (resized).jpeg351A9D35-4465-4FAD-93A4-609EDF37E551 (resized).jpeg4EF80348-1F57-4AFA-A0A1-E70DCBD6CEA6 (resized).jpeg62CCF101-9B52-4EF9-AADB-CD87A0252BAD (resized).jpegBCF09DA2-CFC9-47CC-B759-3CEA9801A868 (resized).jpegPower box for MM 1 is rebuilt. I
Used new insulated cord stock in place of the flat cord because it offers a little more protection and a cleaner look and is readily on hand here.
It isn’t something I would arbitrarily do but since it was needed anyway it works well.
CABBB6B9-DBD7-4B99-916D-9984D4047A9B (resized).jpegimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgOk it is after 6 and it is Tuesday so...
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Should help dull the pain of the evenings work.
I am going to start working through the coil assemblies.
Worst jet bumpers I have ever seen and with 3 to 6 per game normally and hundreds of games done that is saying a lot.
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Quoted from LTG:Gotta love it. Threaded rod end breaks off of a pop bumper ring, weld it on. Flipper base plate breaks, weld the piece back on.
They had a welder. They probably didn't have parts.
LTG : )
they were welders at heart.
Between the flippers and the pops I walk away with two brackets,two secondary brackets and a lone plunger.
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All the rest goes in the trash.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgI would bet money that the trashed one came from somwhere that works on pins or even restores them, and this was used as a donor to many machines over a long period of time, swapping back in the hacked/broken parts, and then sold as a project machine.
Quoted from Tomass:I would bet money that the trashed one came from somwhere that works on pins or even restores them, and this was used as a donor to many machines over a long period of time, swapping back in the hacked/broken parts, and then sold as a project machine.
I think that a lot of the reason reimported games get a bad reputation is because of a game like this MM 1
The thing is though that some of these countries have virtually no access to the needed parts so the guys there do whatever they can to keep the games working. Especially if the work was done before the widespread internet access and in the dark days of the hobby between Williams closing the Pinball division and the parts market picking back up.
I can appreciate and respect that for sure.
Undoing it and taking it from trash to treasure is fun too.
Regarding the diluted Simple Green and soaking wiring: Any concerns of contaminants or cleaner getting trapped in the wire (i.e. think longevity - years or decades later?)
I've seen a fair number of people use this method, but have been always hesitant and still clean wires by hand. Do you warm the wiring to try to evaporate and residual water (sorry if missed it if mentioned)?
Quoted from Squeakman:Chris come on out to Arizona and I can promise you 115 degrees or above. 91 is a cake walk for us.
Trust me the humidity around here is the killer.... ive been out west and the 100-110 was nothing like our 90-95 with 70-80 dew point...
Quoted from mbwalker:Regarding the diluted Simple Green and soaking wiring: Any concerns of contaminants or cleaner getting trapped in the wire (i.e. think longevity - years or decades later?)
I've seen a fair number of people use this method, but have been always hesitant and still clean wires by hand. Do you warm the wiring to try to evaporate and residual water (sorry if missed it if mentioned)?
I actually do not use Simple Green personally because I think it has some corrosive properties.
Orange based cleaners are my preference because they do not.
No long term concerns as long as you do a thorough job of rinsing and blowing all the connectors dry soon after the soak.
That gap between the soak,rinse and dry if too long is where you could risk contamination.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:I actually do not use Simple Green personally because I think it has some corrosive properties.
Orange based cleaners are my preference because they do not.
No long term concerns as long as you do a thorough job of rinsing and blowing all the connectors dry soon after the soak.
That gap between the soak,rinse and dry if too long is where you could risk contamination.
Oops about Simple Green - missed you mentioned it was orange based. Wouldn't have thought about the difference tho - good comment.
I actually looked up Simple Green and it is indeed corrosive and they mentioned guidelines on proper usage (mostly cleaning time and rinsing). Orange cleaners, if they use the proper ingredients, are not corrosive. From one random seller's (EcoLink- Vortex) web site "This blend of natural ingredients is a 100% organic formulation representing a completely new approach in one step degreasing. It is non-corrosive and contains no petroleum distillates, halogenated solvents or alkalis." But it also sounds like some citrus based cleaners, if they go the cheap route, might still be corrosive. Depends on what part of the orange or additives they use. Of course I should add - I don't work for or sell Vortex. Just interesting reading!
Excellent answers. May have to rethink my laborious wire cleaning strategy and look closer at my cleaners!
Another seller even mentions 'non corrosive" on the label. Hmmm.
Capture (resized).PNGQuoted from mbwalker:Oops about Simple Green - missed you mentioned it was orange based. Wouldn't have thought about the difference tho - good comment.
I actually looked up Simple Green and it is indeed corrosive and they mentioned guidelines on proper usage (mostly cleaning time and rinsing). Orange cleaners, if they use the proper ingredients, are not corrosive. From one random seller's (EcoLink- Vortex) web site "This blend of natural ingredients is a 100% organic formulation representing a completely new approach in one step degreasing. It is non-corrosive and contains no petroleum distillates, halogenated solvents or alkalis." But it also sounds like some citrus based cleaners, if they go the cheap route, might still be corrosive. Depends on what part of the orange or additives they use. Of course I should add - I don't work for or sell Vortex. Just interesting reading!
Excellent answers. May have to rethink my laborious wire cleaning strategy and look closer at my cleaners!
Another seller even mentions 'non corrosive" on the label. Hmmm.[quoted image]
Yes the products and process are very important.
If you are just going for clean and not careful with products and process you will do more harm than good.
I have tried and studied most products and processes and settle on this method for the best cleaning and doing no harm.
There are products that clean faster and easier but it isn’t worth the issues they can create.
The main thing to look for with any cleaner is that it is non corrosive.
That is essential when doing this.
Today I plan on painting MM 1 s cabinet.
I will start by prepping everything that I need to paint black
This will be the bolts, the hex post and new oak blocking for the inside.
27610547-2A13-41D8-A886-8D15708EF506 (resized).jpegC727B1F0-DBB0-4EE0-AD51-A2CCDE0DC080 (resized).jpegF059E770-594D-41FB-AADC-2AE140CF89AF (resized).jpeg@HEP - I just wanted to say "thanks" for sharing the step-by-step process of your restorations. These are my favorite threads to watch on Pinside. You provide a lot of knowledge and insights into how you approach your work and take a seemingly *huge* project and break it down into a set of smaller problems that all seem manageable. I guess that's the mark of a master craftsman to some extent.
Thanks!
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