Hopkins, MN
Quoted from Koos:Why do those flaps have that ‘split’
So a ball rolling down deflects and doesn't drain between the flippers.
LTG : )
(Topic ID: 222199)
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Medieval Madness
Williams, 1997
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Quoted from Koos:Why do those flaps have that ‘split’ and what does it change do their behavior when they’re upside down?
The flaps have the split so that when combined with the plastic underneath, prevents the ball from going STDM (straight down the middle) on partially made ramp shots.
The photo shows that since the split isn't centered on the flap, when it's upside down the split doesn't line up properly with the plastic piece underneath.
Edit: Lloyd beat me to it.
Quoted from Koos:Why do those flaps have that ‘split’ and what does it change do their behavior when they’re upside down?
The flap is split to accommodate the clear plastic wedge diverter Williams added to ramps so the ball would deflect more towards the slings vs SDTM. As seen in the photo, if the flap is backwards the wedge is exposed and creates a step for the ball to travel over.
Quoted from Yelobird:The flap is split to accommodate the clear plastic wedge diverter Williams added to ramps so the ball would deflect more towards the slings vs SDTM. As seen in the photo, if the flap is backwards the wedge is exposed and creates a step for the ball to travel over.
Sorry my refresh was slow and others answered this already.....
Building damsel ramp for MM 1
Starting with new guards they need the film and residue removed. F8827C7C-2C01-468E-876C-8FB5566FC187 (resized).jpeg
Residue removed with adhesive remover.
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New screws are needed
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An entirely new harness will be made with the normal color correct extended wiring I like to utilize in the process C24748AC-AD68-4AE5-89ED-C582B89C7646 (resized).jpeg
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All wiring is run through black shrink tube
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I need to talk about dragon wings for a minute.
Factory wings were pretty much a straight red and fairly bright.
Generation 1 I will call it repro were closer but a little darker or translucent. D461D873-420B-4B2A-B0CD-0BB6E032A5C0 (resized).jpeg
They still came close to matching the dragon body. 4F1D4720-6F83-4A5C-89EE-69A843CBE614 (resized).jpeg
The more recent reproduction have just gotten too dark for my liking because it gets farther and farther away from the color of the body itself and the initial release.They sort of pick up the body accents and work at s glance but just not close enough to correct anymore. 1230982B-13D3-4A21-BBA4-D7EE6B6D0312 (resized).jpeg
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To bridge the gap between what is nice about the recent repros and what they lack in my eyes I do a light refinishing to get a happier medium.
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First plastic prep and prime. Very light so I don’t lose too much detailE2FFB791-3846-4A30-A876-D879A42EDDBD (resized).jpeg
Next a light coat of candied brighter red on each side. Not to fully cover but to brighten. EA53F64F-C451-4814-B4E6-7861D9F91C36 (resized).jpegF693C8F4-2789-4298-8117-2B75A5DD2917 (resized).jpeg
Followed by a light flash of glossed clear base to protect and barely shine this will shine more on the higher surface than the lower because it is only misted and will gather higher quicker than lower E74DF949-14D3-45FC-AA16-2704B6213E02 (resized).jpeg5C1D8621-06FB-4522-9FB1-821090AB59BF (resized).jpeg
Now to compare to the original repros
Original repro shows s but light and lower in detail.
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Refinished newer repro is the sweet spot in terms of match and accents for me.
It matched the body well without overdoing the black accents. 3254121C-CC33-4448-9BD1-FDF2BA7AFE94 (resized).jpeg
Damsel ramp for MM 1 is complete
0799A6D1-3296-4C33-A075-C2FADD1489A1 (resized).jpeg9A4CF98E-5620-426E-A7E5-0867041D4CE8 (resized).jpeg417DB880-3E19-4D6E-8A95-F79C8AAE2908 (resized).jpeg
1FCB80B0-7D55-4ECF-B626-319CA883DAEB (resized).jpeg203036BA-C48A-4026-B86F-4FC25744661F (resized).jpeg
1FB9E60C-8E83-4967-9A7F-D3CFDD5798D1 (resized).jpegA0628F20-9D9D-4FB3-B7E9-3F7D73D50653 (resized).jpegThe dragon wings alone show a level of artisan craft that frankly can't be taught, only built over many years. Super impressed with that work. Also even more impressive to know that when successful, work like that looks more original/intentional than repros, and thus may be unnoticed by client! The better the work, the more it seems like it's intended from factory.
Integrity is making the right decisions even when no one is watching.
The dragon...awesome. I agree, that’s just how it should look. I know I (and many others) have previously thanked you many times for taking the time to show the pictures and all the explanations. But I’ll do it yet again. This is just the greatest stuff ever, I go over every detail and love all of it.
And that drawer full of LEDs...almost as good as the wire rack!
Damsel ramp for MM 2 now done.
Ramps can be pretty time consuming.
Just swapping them over real quick with original wiring and components would be much easier obviously but it is worth the extra effort to me.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgPeasant ramps
MM 1s ramp is dirty and cracked with a broken guard. B08F78AC-F198-4C29-AD6E-3801692FA6BF (resized).jpeg
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MM 2s looks a little better but had spiderweb like cracking at attachment points and dirt gathered up between the plastic triangle 3A0382BB-B776-4B18-9E9F-0DEE69063ED7 (resized).jpeg
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New ramps look good in terms of flap installation. 40475905-7937-40AC-A25A-10D786BB8C89 (resized).jpeg
They do have the bare metal rusty switch bracket issue. E94EE0EC-B07C-470A-BB09-B46CE597289B (resized).jpeg
Those are removed. 06BD304D-0FDB-471A-884D-075378A2A9C6 (resized).jpeg
The ramps are broken down and carryover parts are grouped.
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First I will Black the sockets and other blackened parts back out.
Plastic painting for sockets,metal etching for metal. 6E8FA2D8-3CE9-42FC-B594-6CC239471E31 (resized).jpeg87C24C7E-7AB8-4F09-9DAD-40728C82715A (resized).jpeg4BB55200-58C1-4B14-B41A-E7FD02225D5B (resized).jpeg
During this process I am going to grain the guards and also the entry ramp guide. Doing it in this order because the new flaps are loose on my workbench from unpacking the other ramp flaps and I want to clean that up/reorganize.
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Guards and guides removed at this point are regrained initial with a combi wheel.
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Then watersanded.
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Then essentially polished with an SOS pad. My aim here is a nice factory like finish that will wear well and can be refreshed during a standard shop job with a scotchbrite. 49782381-63D0-4CA1-A18B-E0BDD8632EB0 (resized).jpeg
Truly polishing to a chromelike finish is something I have done in the past thinking it would be “better” but what I found is it shows wear much quicker and cannot be maintained just redone so I would save that for impressive pictures or games that might not see much use.
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Now the flaps can be attached and the guards placed on the new peasant ramps. 232C0932-4650-48C2-91A8-6B7F2384866E (resized).jpeg
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A new harness is made for both ramps as I go along.
It is all run through black shrink tube and the hot leads are insulated so they can’t short.A3C9AC98-68ED-4479-94C4-BEB2988BCC45 (resized).jpeg
The spotlight wiring is reconfigured entirely by eliminating the loud looking yellow and yellow/white strand for that location as well as the multiple wire tap on the right side where 4 wires are chaining the spotlight together making it look even sloppier.
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Black wire and black/blue is used to replace that and it is run individually to the sockets. C2CC438D-8D40-48C7-B023-EE77BB7AB791 (resized).jpeg
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All still run through tubing although the black black and blue scheme would easily blend on its own. 4A1A8F49-519B-4E0F-9E4C-A3B27F93F883 (resized).jpeg
Unlike the factory wire that really clashed against the backboard especially if it is clean. image (resized).jpg
Ramps are starting to come together. 22BC168C-0A7A-4A97-9272-B575FE677945 (resized).jpeg
Peasant ramps are done.
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MM 1 4F7AA1E9-2E9C-495E-8C48-D8FDC8904D1A (resized).jpeg
Or
MM 2?
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I don’t know on these now because it no longer matters they are identical E29950DF-E06C-44C4-B6BC-8CE474FE1153 (resized).jpeg
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The look is much cleaner overall now when placed.
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image (resized).jpgTroll assemblies will be next.
Starting with MM 1
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The carriages are broken and welded not only in the front but the rear. 1CC369D0-31A3-4278-83E0-39769D8119A2 (resized).jpeg
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Missing some parts or broken like the locators D56174BD-C539-4185-B86F-4E668B50345C (resized).jpeg
Flaps look ok but need to be redone DC18F51F-ECDF-4B1A-8D99-EB3F6161727D (resized).jpeg75D5FADF-1C71-4B8A-BDCC-CBDFA0475CB5 (resized).jpeg
New parts will be the heads these will have light up eyes since we need new ones anyway,troll washers and switches 6247B689-D001-4CD5-8F10-077C32BAB8EB (resized).jpeg
New carriages,locators and the very important but often missing insulators. 8A72D9B8-6E8B-4737-AB80-6578036BBEC6 (resized).jpeg
New high quality flap decals. These are the grainier /textured variety. Not the cheap glossy vinyl ones. C439F997-87DA-461B-B543-389C5A61B038 (resized).jpeg
So we start here. 0E7A592A-C209-4943-99C7-C7382B0AA5FF (resized).jpeg
First the flaps. B18D6439-03D8-4E47-AF4C-D84BAEF65209 (resized).jpeg
Remove the decals
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soak in adhesive remover. 70618ED0-C217-4640-843B-B1D79574D9E5 (resized).jpeg
Softens the glue90B568DC-6BD8-4E7F-99FD-8898AAD32429 (resized).jpeg
Glue removed. 3E30B0C1-5C6D-4FB0-80AD-0D2BD5105CAB (resized).jpeg
Flaps and rusty retainers will be metal etched. 28FD6F6A-B781-4355-80F3-A7122FE24110 (resized).jpeg
Flaps etched.
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Now ready to decal 6251209C-93BE-4638-89AF-D23E5CE13A9E (resized).jpeg
Decaled I will detail the exposed rivets later instead of leaving them black
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Now the trolls and carriages
New trolls mounted to new switches. 98F932E3-D733-412E-8F59-914B226C699D (resized).jpeg
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Before placing in the carriages it is important to have the insulator. 6EC1178F-F3CC-4386-B4B9-6A4CC0DA9F3A (resized).jpeg
Without the insulators the sides of the switch blades can short against the sidewall of the switch mount in the carriages "[att=4526187,1341222 caption="
The insulator in place.
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Crock clips cut from the troll eye lights.
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Flaps installed 0A4592BE-76A3-4F7D-9121-F89990217144 (resized).jpeg
Light portion wire routed and locators installed. 5966C4E6-15D7-491A-9168-4685007A5C6D (resized).jpeg
Now for the switch wiring.
The correct combination are found for the left and right using the manual 958F287E-A271-4DC5-B406-9305FE00B495 (resized).jpeg
The switch wires are soldered. 2B3ACA02-D0D6-48A4-913D-1DC49EC96A32 (resized).jpeg
Troll wires don’t have a lot of space and the likelihood of the wires insulation being cut is higher because the way the blades are configured.Mostly it is the white switch wires that are in danger 4703F5A9-C0B6-46F7-B1FA-3C4015ACE3DE (resized).jpeg
An individual sleeve is made for that.
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Wires are then bundled and run as a group through clear protective tubing and zip tied as originally to the carriage housing. image (resized).jpg
The new lighted eyes are placed on there own plug that I will make a mate with within the games GI harness later. image (resized).jpg
Troll carriages for MM 1 are finished.
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image (resized).jpgNow for MM 1 troll mechs
The mechs were torndown earlier this week so the brackets could be plated.
The hardware needs to be cleaned and polished first.
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The hardware is prepped and polished. All came out nicely.
7836084B-6748-48E3-95C5-A7243EBCA7BC (resized).jpegNow I need to talk about the brackets.
MM 1 is not a true sample game but it does use the first run troll mech brackets. 26BFFA9B-A744-4BC2-AB5C-9EABFC9F4B09 (resized).jpeg
Here is what that means technically although both versions work fine.
The first generation bracket (top)has a large stopper plug hole than the second generation(bottom) AB18DEB4-B8A1-4AC5-91BE-D40AF2B24175 (resized).jpeg
Because of that they use a different style stopper plug
Generation 1 uses the large round version
Generation 2 uses the smaller grommet style. 6D3023B2-BF4E-4F3A-8D23-677314C5E6E3 (resized).jpeg
Generation 1 (right)mounting points are shaped a bit different than generation 2(left)
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Lastly the switch mounting tabs are also shaped different with Generation 1(right) have a botched cut out and generation 2(left) is solid. 6210F96E-1B28-4820-BBB6-7F3C9B093F34 (resized).jpeg
Ok so now we know that we can’t mix the brackets together and what to look for.
The coils are checked and found to be good so they will be cleaned relabeled,rewired and resleeved 09566EA0-014A-4DF6-956F-692DD9218791 (resized).jpeg
Coils are in order and placed in the housing. The wiring is new and extended. FB46AB80-488A-43EA-9045-5CCCDBE90D43 (resized).jpeg
New correct style stopper plugs. I like black when I have choice. Easy to keep clean. F5ACA97F-FC71-4755-AEC0-7FAA5EEA7BFD (resized).jpeg
The main reason plating is most ideal on a part like this is that with the well nut inserts it is pretty tough to get a good consistent polishing and corrosion removal.
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New switch and wiring F35ECF72-F04F-4FB9-B2EB-C5567F6CD288 (resized).jpeg
MM 2 trolls done
65402ABE-FC12-4490-B041-238B74CADE85 (resized).jpegThe needs of MM 1 at this point are starting to get a bit more in focus so I am going to concentrate on it most of the week and go through everything before gutting MM 2
Remaining on my bench so far from MM 1 was the knocker.
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Knocker done.
AE5338BA-2ACF-4F78-A7DB-4D3FA1B04395 (resized).jpegReady to harvest some more parts from MM 1
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My biggest goal right now is gutting it and getting parts separated into a few categories
Trash I use an old cash box
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Useable or essential cabinet hardware
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Black parts(cabinet bolts,specific MM parts)
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Plastic parts(looms,post etc)
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Useable and essential playfield parts
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So as an example when tearing down a screw like this is trash
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I will pull a new one at this time and throw it in the useable playfield parts cup. E33E8BD4-8BEC-4A5F-99F9-2A52C73EA956 (resized).jpeg
Pulling the wiring harnesses
Starting with the opto and solenoid
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Filthy really filthy!
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Electrical tape
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Painted connectors
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Masking tape
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These are going to need a lot of attention and extra effort.
First thing to do when they are this dirty is soak them.
Soaking them in a combination or orange cleaner and soapy water. D15D999A-473C-4F73-B5BD-82A5A0701DC3 (resized).jpeg
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Have to go heavy and break out the power washer. I can think of like 4 times in 16 years that has happened. Sockets are coming around. 72F229FE-5CE3-4324-9C9F-EB05D2FA8E1D (resized).jpeg
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Quoted from bobukcat:I would never have thought to use a pressure washer!
Thats a fact. I'm to lazy I would have ruined them in the dishwasher with the dinner plates. lol Mama always loves when I mix business with pleasure.
Harnesses are off cleaned and drying for MM 1
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Playfield is out of the cabinet.
Can get a better look at remaining mechs. E7EE8EE6-5AC6-4EC7-B038-6707FD5918FB (resized).jpeg
5459CBA5-37F8-42F6-871A-D54D7B197BDC (resized).jpeg787B9D13-EA1B-43A9-AF7C-59CF14A42CEF (resized).jpeg8946F563-FEB1-45EB-80B7-0D851EC1B89A (resized).jpegCabinet wiring is removed and cleaned next. E3EDEAA0-B151-4BAF-B465-E33BE685B601 (resized).jpeg5E7FE984-480C-4802-BD24-9D44C479CF2A (resized).jpeg
Found some cards in there always kind of neat to try and figure out the life of the game
I imagine this guy was possibly the engineer behind the creative fixes in Brazil?
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This guy was probably a local tech that was in way over his head trying to plug holes in this sinking ship F3376BFE-A652-4334-A463-FE2BC5163C41 (resized).jpeg
No idea really but fun to guess and free advertising for both.
On the topic of Dragons, Chris can you tell us what is the correct bulb to use for the flasher IN the dragon itself? I see some say 906 isn't the best one and that some other special bulb is needed. Will 906 work with no damage to the game?
I have had my afternoon workout , shower now drinking my evening beer so no dirty work for me.
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I think I will close out the plastics and ramps for MM 1 first. image (resized).jpg
I have to say I have never seen this particular plastic broken before and that says a lot.
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Starting with the moat
image (resized).jpgQuoted from RVApinballer:On the topic of Dragons, Chris can you tell us what is the correct bulb to use for the flasher IN the dragon itself? I see some say 906 isn't the best one and that some other special bulb is needed. Will 906 work with no damage to the game?
Technically the 906 is the correct one because that is what was there from the factory.
These days I like the Comet red flasher pictured even if you were running incandescent bulbs in the rest of the game it does a better job lighting the dragon up because of the multiple directions it flashes.
The real issue in my eyes is the dragon body is not transparent at all so nothing does a real good job lighting it up but that LED does a better job than a standard 906
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgMoat for MM 1 needs a lot of help.
Really we just need a new moat,sockets,bulbs,switch and wiring
Okay an all new moat. 86599255-3B69-43EB-A663-27E40B52AA2E (resized).jpeg
So these moats can be hit and miss to find. Often out of stock I found this one at Marco when others were out of stock so there may be a better or worse one available today but when I was gathering parts this is what I could find. A little opaque or frosted looking underneath but shiny inside.
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Since I need to build it up from scratch I can choose the socket styles I think would work best.
Original is the 89 round style
But there is no reason I cannot use the 904 wedge style
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I think with the use of LEDs these days and how far that has come that I like the cleaner look and ease of bulb changes with the wedge style so I will go that route for MM 1. It needs everything anyway let’s do the best we can to improve it. 3352337A-6A31-4551-843D-3C2945FD334D (resized).jpeg
Sockets in place.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Most for MM 1 needs a lot of help.
Really we just need a new moat,sockets,bulbs,switch and wiring
Okay an all new moat. [quoted image]
So these moats can be hit and miss to find. Often out of stock I found this one at Marco when others were out of stock so there may be a better or worse one available today but when I was gathering parts this is what I could find. A little opaque or frosted looking underneath but shiny inside.
[quoted image]
Since I need to build it up from scratch I can choose the socket styles I think would work best.
Original is the 89 round style
But there is no reason I cannot use the 904 wedge style
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
I think with the use of LEDs these days and how far that has come that I like the cleaner look and ease of bulb changes with the wedge style so I will go that route for MM 1. It needs everything anyway let’s do the best we can to improve it. [quoted image]
Sockets in place.
[quoted image]
I think the wedge sockets have less resistance to vibration than the bayonet Style.
I think that's why they are used in some places and not others.
Just a guess.
Quoted from pinballinreno:I think the wedge sockets have less resistance to vibration than the bayonet Style.
I think that's why they are used in some places and not others.
Just a guess.
That is probably a really valid point and observation for the time this game was built.
I think these will work well now with the tight fitting LEDs. The main thought I had with the change was the ease to just push the bulb in verses the twist needed for the 89 style. Should be the best of both worlds moving forward.
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