Medieval Madness
Williams, 1997Quoted from flynnibus:I want to know how you avoid spending 1/4 of your day cleaning your paint guns
I use a quick cup system for smaller jobs.the sleeves are disposable
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On my larger more crucial jobs my guns are equipped with quick release 1/4 turn cups. image (resized).jpg
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Couple that with A small special clean up bottle full of thinner and it minimizes clean up time and waste.
image (resized).jpgQuoted from High_End_Pins:I use a quick cup system for smaller jobs.the sleeves are disposable
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
On my larger more crucial jobs my guns are equipped with quick release 1/4 turn cups. [quoted image]
[quoted image]
Couple that with A small special clean up bottle full of thinner and it minimizes clean up time and waste.
[quoted image]
So you just spray MS or thinner vs disassembly each time? It's the paranoia cleaning of the gun itself that bogs me down...
What Chris is doing is pretty much industry standard. I don’t even have aluminum cups for my guns anymore. Use the disposables for everything. The amount of thinner needed to clean a gun is drastically reduced, time is reduced. The gun does need to be periodically broken down and cleaned but certainly not every time.
Ready to tackle MM 2s eggshell
Should be much less involved than #1
It looks nice image (resized).jpg
The only real problem is that it is installed upside down with the pigtail coming off the right side instead of the left which means it is lighting the translite all wrong. image (resized).jpg
Broke down image (resized).jpg
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All bulbs removed.
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Panel washed as an assembly because the risk of breaking heat brittle sockets is not worth it considering the overall condition
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Panel is hung to drip dry for a minute while I clean and recondition the other parts but I will blow it dry with compressed air before I reinstall it.
image (resized).jpgGlass channels are good not broken so they are lightly dusted with paint to freshen them up.
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While those dry I blow the eggshell and wiring dry. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
Now completely dry I can place the LEDs
All warm frosted with a few cools in the bluer areas of the translite.
I map that out by placing the translite over the eggshell and barely marking the sockets that will get the cool bulbs by blacking just one tab of the socket.
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Lamps are installed and the panel is tested prior to reassembly
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Glass is cleaned and translite wiped down as it did not need a full wash. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
Panel rebuilt with the plug now on the correct side meaning it will be properly lit. image (resized).jpg
Now final tested/verified.
image (resized).jpgMM 1 speaker panel rebuild.
Panel as removed.
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Williams script was painted over. If I were doing a black version I could probably just redo it and live with that but I am not on this one. 08DF011F-2DF0-4400-B88B-5983536685C0 (resized).jpeg
Panel is torndown 424A5482-9D3B-426B-B766-E23356C0DB45 (resized).jpeg
Will need a new speaker set. Also has an incorrect value at 8 ohms D9568A27-8700-4182-BA78-228A8ECA5D6D (resized).jpeg
Other needed parts are cleaned.
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I have a new panel on hand.
It isn’t perfect because there is a slight marking on the chrome script but it is being gifted to the project and will be a significant upgrade
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The new panel is being assembled with a new clear window,speakers and an LED version ColorDMD.
I personally prefer that version because it always fits and the colors are more vivid and I actually like the dots but I know opinions are divided.
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When using a ColorDMD on WPC 95 games one thing I like to address is the gap between the display and the window.
This can be done with black weather strip foam or in this case but shortening the display stand offs
I have shaved these down for a tighter fit to the window. AE6DC1AE-BC20-4DD4-BA05-B7E0A1E74487 (resized).jpeg040C0930-55F7-4456-8BF1-D5AA675F91D6 (resized).jpeg464EAF55-0F51-4A30-8503-720198E6025B (resized).jpeg8ED58309-22A3-4458-9D5A-3937B9308601 (resized).jpeg
The panel rebuild is now complete.
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It is then packed labeled and shelved.
Quoted from yancy:How do you remove those pesky display panel nuts without destroying the plastic standoffs?
Pinch them with these. I will catch that when I do MM 2s panel.
Quoted from Rob_G:Was MM1 a re-import?
With MM1, considering so many parts needing to be replaced and the cost associated (plus labor), isn't it just more cost effective to buy a new MMR instead?
Rob
Not at all, personally I would never buy a MM remake, there’s still plenty of people that want the original real deal.
Excellent work, but curious at some of the decisions to reuse old parts like the translite trim on MM2 vs installing new. Also seems a little unfair that because MM1 was in such bad shape, its lightbox ends up looking nicer than MM2.
I think the yellowing around the holes in the MM2 light panel would bother me if I was having such a restoration done.
Edit: Also thinking that since MM2 was in such nice shape to begin with, the only reason to send it to HEP would be because the owner wanted to take it to the next level and have everything perfect. Perhaps this is an incorrect assumption.
Quoted from Jvspin:Excellent work, but curious at some of the decisions to reuse old parts like the translite trim on MM2 vs installing new. Also seems a little unfair that because MM1 was in such bad shape, it ends up looking nicer than MM2.
I think the yellowing around the holes in the MM2 light panel would bother me if I was having such a restoration done.
I was wondering this myself as well.
Quoted from Jvspin:Excellent work, but curious at some of the decisions to reuse old parts like the translite trim on MM2 vs installing new. Also seems a little unfair that because MM1 was in such bad shape, it ends up looking nicer than MM2.
.
You must not be familiar with Chris' work. Both will end up looking better than new.
Chris, I hope before retiring you take on a couple apprentice candidates. All great artists, and that is what you are, need to pass the tradition along. I'm in awe of your talents. Awesome doesn't mean what it used to, but your work holds true to the original meaning of the word.
Quoted from Jvspin:Excellent work, but curious at some of the decisions to reuse old parts like the translite trim on MM2 vs installing new. Also seems a little unfair that because MM1 was in such bad shape, it ends up looking nicer than MM2.
I think the yellowing around the holes in the MM2 light panel would bother me if I was having such a restoration done.
Edit: Also thinking that since MM2 was in such nice shape to begin with, the only reason to send it to HEP would be because the owner wanted to take it to the next level and have everything perfect. Perhaps this is an incorrect assumption.
These are good questions and it makes sense that it would be confusing.
The reason some choices are made have a lot to do with two things.
The first is needs.
Does MM 2 need new trim or to have the panel painted?
No but because of the results of MM 1 needing those things it makes it seem like that would be more ideal.
The reason it is not ideal for MM 2 the second reason.
Parts fit and potential damage.
Had I removed all the sockets from MM 2s eggshell they would most likely break and potentially the eggshell itself
Also the original glass channels fit MUCH better than the new replacements.
So to summarize.
MM 2s owner would have been punished essentially by having to buy all new sockets,possibly an eggshell and lesser fitting glass channels.
MM 1 needed those things and had nothing to lose by attempting it.
Make sense?
One more thing to add is the yellow around the bulbs is on the inside of the panel only not the outside so that is important too.
If it were on the outside it would be more of a need at that point.
Back to MM 1
I am going to focus on it s bit more now because it has the biggest needs and will be more time consuming.
Next step will be remove and clean the boards and fully evaluate them.
image (resized).jpgAs I remove the wire I notice that the knocker is direct soldered. No plug as you see on MM 2
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgQuoted from High_End_Pins:These are good questions and it makes sense that it would be confusing.
The reason some choices are made have a lot to do with two things.
The first is needs.
Does MM 2 need new trim or to have the panel painted?
No but because of the results of MM 1 needing those things it makes it seem like that would be more ideal.
The reason it is not ideal for MM 2 the second reason.
Parts fit and potential damage.
Had I removed all the sockets from MM 2s eggshell they would most likely break and potentially the eggshell itself
Also the original glass channels fit MUCH better than the new replacements.
So to summarize.
MM 2s owner would have been punished essentially by having to buy all new sockets,possibly an eggshell and lesser fitting glass channels.
MM 1 needed those things and had nothing to lose by attempting it.
Make sense?
One more thing to add is the yellow around the bulbs is on the inside of the panel only not the outside so that is important too.
If it were on the outside it would be more of a need at that point.
That does makes sense!
Me (and Jvspin as well I assume) weren’t criticizing your work. You’re obviously doing an amazing job.
I thought maybe the MM2’s customer specifically asked you to keep the budget as low as possible or something. Haven’t thought about all those other reasons. Also didn’t noticed it was only the back that was yellowed.
Looking forward to your next updates!
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Boards removed. Cleaned swapped for better examples that are already serviced. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Maybe a few stupid questions to ask but I’m not that familiar with the whole in-depth pin restoration yet:
What does servicing mean when you’re talking about electronics like those boards?
How can you tell a board needs it?
And is it only affected by age or also by use?
And is that something only older boards benefit from or do you do that with newer machines as well? (Although you won’t receive many newer machines for restoration I guess)
EDIT: just trying to learn something here. Hopefully I’ll be able to do some minor repairs on older pins one day.
Quoted from Koos:Maybe a few stupid questions to ask but I’m not that familiar with the whole in-depth pin restoration yet:
What does servicing mean when you’re talking about electronics like those boards?
How can you tell a board needs it?
And is it only affected by age or also by use?
And is that something only older boards benefit from or do you do that with newer machines as well? (Although you won’t receive many newer machines for restoration I guess)
EDIT: just trying to learn something here. Hopefully I’ll be able to do some minor repairs on older pins one day.
The need to service boards and which boards can be pretty specific to different brands and eras.
Some certain brands or eras have either well known flaws or lifespan component issues like GI sections that burn up( flaw)dried up capacitors(lifespan)
Looking at a board visually can help spot poorly done repairs like this.
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Or known flaws like this overheating. image (resized).jpg
Servicing would mean people well versed in these issues and known regular failures would go through a set of boards and correct or maintenance them.
The idea is to send a game out that not only works well today but for years to come.
Inner head wiring is rmoved from MM 1
It will be cleaned then gone through a bit.
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Trouble spots are
Masking taped power splices. image (resized).jpg
Burnt connector for translite mating plug.
image (resized).jpgWiring issue was exposed
No real cut or compromise to the wire itself only the insulation. B41900A0-991F-416C-AD18-CA4E7A61A328 (resized).jpeg
Wire is cleaned and pulled from the connector DDA4B880-07C1-4301-8CCE-F2D9A0E69A6F (resized).jpeg
The exposed wire is then tinned to make sure there are no loose strands 59A5EFBD-F0E7-412B-8EF4-CF72CB066FBE (resized).jpeg6C15D7B1-10FF-4D39-ADC5-A5D4AEC8B4C2 (resized).jpeg
A sleeve is made with clear tubing and shrink tube .The idea is to give a thick durable housing for the exposed wire that is the clear tubing and to make sure it doesn’t move that is the shrink tubing 0F451583-ED9C-4D34-9B14-D8DDA50F1DD1 (resized).jpegE45A78D8-60D1-4014-815C-5BE8F0B2F380 (resized).jpegEF37CBFC-623D-4073-AE37-D9AA966BD41B (resized).jpeg
The sleeve is then placed over the section and heated. CDC1B649-2C3E-4226-947C-EE284F68E6B9 (resized).jpeg
Now tidying it up by burying it in the harness and zip tying. 5C563425-24F9-4BD9-854D-11F614BFAD4B (resized).jpeg8DB67F77-41A2-4B82-8AC8-9B4F37A629AA (resized).jpeg
Ribbon cables cleaned up nicely. 5262228A-BE4C-4D57-9FD2-693F05F3C53D (resized).jpeg
The burnt connector for the translite panel is rebuilt/replaced.
I had a little extra wiggle room in the harness since I extended the panels pigtail so I was easily able to cut it back 1/2 an inch to make sure I got rid of not only the burnt pins but scorched wire sections as well.
FE3DAADD-B65A-44E3-8E07-8ACD3D517D15 (resized).jpegNext I will pull the lamp boards fro MM 1
I know this might skip around a bit but there is a method to my madness when it comes to the order I do things
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgMM 1 lamp are cleaned and placed on the playfield just as they would be if installed underneath. This will allow me to easily map out the LED configuration
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LED are pulled from the LED drawer 9FB5A9AF-A0E4-46CB-95F0-44164834D48D (resized).jpeg
LEDs are installed 593481FB-E154-4EAC-B0E2-98596A00BE96 (resized).jpeg
The boards are individually tested in MM 281E3A5F2-A470-4DBB-9FB4-B68FC91B7A3F (resized).jpeg
Now the lamp boards from MM 1 can be copied over to MM 2
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MM uses some of the very same lamp boards from one spot to another so once the color schemes are put in place it is very important to note the lamp boards exact location to at the very least save a little time at rebuild.
This is an example of how the exact same board might have different color schemes based on its place underneath 57055FF6-0371-41D4-9551-A19F45116DF2 (resized).jpeg
In order to avoid confusion it is lightly marked (C in this case) and It’s corresponding location marked on the underside of the soon to be junk playfield. 198CB3BD-0831-464F-A276-39FC40134739 (resized).jpeg1EB66E72-23BE-481A-985E-E84BB393EBE6 (resized).jpeg
All lamp boards are now cleaned LEDs installed and tested for both games.
37BD7A31-CD13-4E14-8550-DFCE421473F8 (resized).jpegThe drawbridge motor controller from MM 1 has an incorrect transistor based off the evidence of it being changed and it not matching the TIP 102 used on MM 2s board 0648DCE6-882A-46AB-9D5C-28E3825F2627 (resized).jpegF807D3CA-B363-4E5C-97D7-087255B25C44 (resized).jpeg
I cannot remember off hand if a TIP 122 is a suitable replacement but regardless The transistor is swapped for a TIP 102 and the board is confirmed working properly in MM 2
2CC1F89A-49C0-4371-BBE5-B2938D97E762 (resized).jpeg8177626C-E827-49A9-A476-C643B5B28FC2 (resized).jpeg
MM 1 castle mech torndown
Was missing c clip 9923215B-E7C5-4089-A641-1C3139A1454D (resized).jpeg
Disassembled
3BE6A2A2-1F40-46A0-AF2A-D8B7B6D5A5D3 (resized).jpeg
Broken tower basesE62749C6-AD85-4DCB-BDAE-8418EC99E0E4 (resized).jpegF261F349-ECA5-4E8B-B90D-30A3C8A0BF4E (resized).jpeg
I won’t replace the towers themselves only the bases because the towers of MM are much like paint. Rarely are two ever alike in color due to different runs,aging and environment. In this case in particular it has been coated t match all other castle parts and looks good as a whole
Here is an example of the tower variations and why replacement would make certain towers stand out.
45DE955B-D1EE-4564-9B43-F7523525D4BF (resized).jpeg5DA8065D-2AE5-49F6-8449-D3E79ADBB6C8 (resized).jpeg96D631A8-6C57-4145-B065-9B9CFEA0C76A (resized).jpegThe towers that need new bases are lightly heated up with a heat gun to remove the bases. 59A19AD0-5503-418D-A56D-B8B48C267354 (resized).jpeg
Base removed 4B8AEA4F-F3CC-4B8C-B1E9-AE053923E267 (resized).jpeg
Trash C3C3FB3E-DDF2-472B-8F26-058221770B27 (resized).jpeg
New bases lightly glued in place 114D93EE-748D-44EA-96E4-DB30483B7D5A (resized).jpeg
New correct springs and clips are installed. 706D6C44-CDF7-4B3C-AD3B-C7B2C7764695 (resized).jpeg
Now to address the lean 90% of the MMs I have seen and done have.
In this position you can see the rear left tower tends to lean outward.
09B82452-77F3-4AA2-804B-25975616E81F (resized).jpeg
To easily fix this a cloth hair band is going to be placed around the rear two towers. CE100A8C-3487-46EC-94A6-F1122789D1DE (resized).jpeg
822D08EC-C197-4847-B9AD-DAAD7DA20309 (resized).jpeg
The band is placed and sits perfectly between the grooves of the base and tower CB6833FD-8487-4561-95CD-9CB723F28B30 (resized).jpeg
The castle mech moves freely and easily with no ill effects.
3BC58F3D-EA17-482A-A152-A3331F2B9784 (resized).jpeg27224618-20E0-48AB-B2DF-CE06E56DEFBE (resized).jpeg
The towers now stand straight the band will likely never wear out and would take seconds to replace or remove if ever needed. 390A7065-C83E-440C-96C5-621A44CACC49 (resized).jpeg
MM 1 exploding castle towers are done.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgMM 2 s towers only needed the weight removed which was some washers taped together. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
Then placed the cloth band. image (resized).jpg
Now all set less a little touch up later on
image (resized).jpgWhile I have the clear plastics out I will make up the missing ball trap plastics.
Both are missing these and it is a very common thing for someone to shop a game out not realize where it goes and toss them.
New plastics and bracket. If you don’t have the bracket something similar can be made up with a large washer. image (resized).jpg
One of my brackets is an original that is the correct blackened metal the other is a stainless steel replacement.
image (resized).jpg
The stainless one is metal etched black image (resized).jpg
The peices are made up. image (resized).jpg
This is where they should be
image (resized).jpgNow for the ramps starting with MM 1
I will pull the Damsel ramp.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgDamsel ramp pulled. image (resized).jpg
Amazingly it isn’t actually broken if needed I could rebuild it but it just isn’t worth doing because the others are broke and were bought in sets.
The decals are trashedimage (resized).jpg
The guards broken
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Hardware beyond reconditioning image (resized).jpg
So as I said I bought a small lot of ramps.
These came from Marco looks nice right ?
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Not so fast
They have the flaps riveted on upside down. Thanks a lot!!!
image (resized).jpg
I will have to correct that.
Sure I could complain/return or whatever but I could also just take care of it and move on.
That is what I will do.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:MM 1 lamp are cleaned and placed on the playfield just as they would be if installed underneath. This will allow me to easily map out the LED configuration
[quoted image]
LED are pulled from the LED drawer [quoted image]
LEDs are installed [quoted image]
The boards are individually tested in MM 2[quoted image]
What method do you use to clean your boards? How long do you let them dry? That was fast! 
The ramps are corrected.
Turns out I needed to do a couple other things to make them right.
The switch brackets were untreated metal already starting to rust and not the correct blackened metal.
B5B4E27F-5559-415D-A768-6CAB4ECAD911 (resized).jpeg
These were pulled.
4DD541EE-4424-4206-AEC6-875A7CDE86E9 (resized).jpeg
Metal etched blackened C7B7BAEE-A0D5-4E47-9A3E-939786A3993F (resized).jpeg
Dry
631D57E8-BF98-4D03-93AC-207B10EF2CB9 (resized).jpeg
Now placed
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1ED2CCA7-ADB5-4D1B-8450-7A3AB32FF1A9 (resized).jpeg
As for the flaps they were removed
028FC97A-A41E-420A-83EE-7B436C01B840 (resized).jpeg
Removal shows the flaps to be basically ruined from improper installation because they are bent backwards now. 8B6EEA3F-E8E0-4271-96F8-D51F5D0A57FF (resized).jpeg
The flaps will be replaced with some I have from Pinbits 75C8B254-C5A5-4F4F-A23D-6800882BFB3F (resized).jpeg
Ramps all set. 9D746B6E-02F5-4356-ADCE-515E95D081E1 (resized).jpeg
image (resized).jpgQuoted from Koos:And another noob question here:
I see you using different techniques like painting, powdercoating and etching.
What’s etching? Sometimes you still paint over it afterwards. Why not paint straight on the material?
Metal needs to be etched with an etching primer first or paints may not adhere properly and eventually peel off.
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Matthews, NC
Leduc, AB
Maurik
