Quoted from High_End_Pins:Hinges are salvaged.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Much easier than repainting them.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Hinges are salvaged.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Much easier than repainting them.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Much easier than repainting them.
Even if I painted and cleared them I would likely have to sand and polish unless I got extremely lucky. I was just glad there was enough material there to work with.
Surprised they were shipped out/sold looking like that though. Makes me wonder what “normal” people do.
Just put them on?
Send them back?
Eat it?
Lockbar is done.
image (resized).jpgQuoted from High_End_Pins:Makes me wonder what “normal” people do.
Send them back.
Warn other pinsiders not to buy from that source if they don't fix them.
I would be super pissed as you probably are.
Quoted from paul_8788:I want to own one HEP pin before I die.
but wouldn't that run you something in the neighbourhood of $2.3M canadian dollars?
Quoted from j_m_:but wouldn't that run you something in the neighbourhood of $2.3M canadian dollars?
Very close.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Send them back.
Warn other pinsiders not to buy from that source if they don't fix them.
I would be super pissed as you probably are.
Yeah that is what I should do but I just don’t have time to deal with it.
Outing someone publicly rarely goes well for anyone involved from what I have seen unless it is something really substantial.
I have had some serious shit happen to me over my 45 years so some lousy powder coating doesn’t even register on the anger meter
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Yeah that is what I should do but I just don’t have time to deal with it.
Outing someone publicly rarely goes well for anyone involved from what I have seen unless it is something really substantial.
I have had some serious shit happen to me over my 45 years so some lousy powder coating doesn’t even register on the anger meter
When you polish out the defects, what's your normal process? An orbital polisher with various polishing compounds? Or do you wet sand with high grits?
Quoted from jsa:When you polish out the defects, what's your normal process? An orbital polisher with various polishing compounds? Or do you wet sand with high grits?
Sand mechanically with a DA
800,1200,then 1500
Buff with wool pad and appropriate compound then polish with a foam pad and appropriate polish.
Technology has outdated most wetsanding in the polishing phases so there are good sanding and polishing systems out there from 3M and Meguires that can be followed.
If I were doing curvy surfacesthen I would get more detailed and go over watersanding and such but for plain old flat Pinball parts it is a waste and a mess.
MM 2 Subwoofer is given an extended pig tail to clear the shaker motor. D82DB7B2-0C4A-4C12-9874-E4B234E69F1E (resized).jpeg
Shaker motor wiring is fully integrated with the cabinet harness. image (resized).jpg
I will make a new mating harness for the playfield portion that will give plenty of wire to easily hide it within there and allow for trouble free folding of the head,raising of the playfield.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:MM 2 Head is mounted on lower cabinet and it should be moving quickly to completion from here.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Looks like I need to print more MM decals
Quoted from mbwalker:Mitering the cabinet edges...why do after the decal install and not before?
HEP May answer this but it is an added touch most cannot do. He is sanding just the edges so there is no seem of the deacal which is prone to lifting at the edges. He then paints to touch it up. You can easily damage the decal and you have to be real good to touch up paint so it matches and looks like it belongs and is not a hack job. This is one of the details that sets a HEP restoration apart from many others. It is a small detail most would never know has been done but can help prevent decal lifting issues many years from now. Hope that makes sense.
Quoted from Mitch:What do you do with all the old playfeilds you don't restore?
Send them back with the game,toss them or save them for a rainy day.
image (resized).jpgQuoted from High_End_Pins:Send them back with the game,toss them or save them for a rainy day.
[quoted image]
I'd buy a roached TAF pf for the right price if you have a spare. Looking for some wall art.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:To remove the push clips I simply squeeze them
Thanks for showing this up close! No idea why I couldn't figure that out.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Panel was washed and dried.
New window installed along with larger speaker housing. [quoted image]
Foam is used to fill in the large gap from this style ColorDMD.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I see foam on speaker panel on sides and top and a piece of foam on the ColorDMD screen. Is that foam on the ColorDMD on the bottom? If so, any reason you put that piece on the ColorDMD versus the speaker panel? And is that a custom lip you put on the front of the speaker panel around the DMD opening & speaker openings?
Quoted from hawknole:I see foam on speaker panel on sides and top and a piece of foam on the ColorDMD screen. Is that foam on the ColorDMD on the bottom? If so, any reason you put that piece on the ColorDMD versus the speaker panel? And is that a custom lip you put on the front of the speaker panel around the DMD opening & speaker openings?
The foam placement on three sides of the panel and one on the color dmd itself is just done because The bottom is what can easily be spotted by the player and needs to be perfectly straight.
There is a little more leeway on the rest.
By placing on the dmd itself it is a flat surface.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:The foam placement on three sides of the panel and one on the color dmd itself is just done because The bottom is what can easily be spotted by the player and needs to be perfectly straight.
There is a little more leeway on the rest.
By placing on the dmd itself it is a flat surface.
These simple little details I bet most would not think of... the perfectionism is impressive. Thanks for sharing you're skills and techniques. Doubt I will ever restore a pin but these threads make me want to try.
Quoted from swillie:These simple little details I bet most would not think of... the perfectionism is impressive. Thanks for sharing you're skills and techniques. Doubt I will ever restore a pin but these threads make me want to try.
I remember thinking I wouldn’t ever do it. LOL. Oh well, can’t close that door now.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:they were welders at heart.
Between the flippers and the pops I walk away with two brackets,two secondary brackets and a lone plunger.
[quoted image]
All the rest goes in the trash. [quoted image][quoted image]
Hopefully you recycle the metal.
Underside wiring of MM 2 complete.
Time to brand it.
image (resized).jpg
After branding. image (resized).jpg
Branding cleaned up the clarity of the brand can be real hard to predict because it has a lot to do with how The smoke gathers around it ,the wood,the heat humidity etc
This extra step cleans it up a bit though.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Using a grinder I rough it into shape. [quoted image]
And there it is I will wash it ,watersand the edges and flame torch it next
[quoted image]
I would like to create on of these. Can you explain what you mean by "flame torching" it? Thanks.
Quoted from Jenk540i:I would like to create on of these. Can you explain what you mean by "flame torching" it? Thanks.
It means taking a butane torch
image (resized).jpg
Then lightly and quickly running it around a plastic surface you would like to remove scratches and rough edges from.
image (resized).jpgChris as part of the harness prep do you do anything to clean the internals' of the light sockets? If so can you share that process.
Thanks
Quoted from Pintopia:Chris as part of the harness prep do you do anything to clean the internals' of the light sockets? If so can you share that process.
Thanks
I typically replace them.
This came out of MM 2s harness.
image (resized).jpg
In the event I do reuse them I use lacquer thinner and these brushes to clean them up
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgSpeaking of lamps
This morning I had the pleasure of changing out the third brake light in my wife’s car.
It is a 2010 Toyota Avalon and the dealer noticed it during the annual inspection and wanted $537 to replace it.
It runs an LED strip that isn’t serviceable.
Needless to say I just ordered the OEM light on line for $120 and set out to install it myself.
Sounds simple enough but they actually built the entire rear interior around that light.
Started out here. D00A8C2F-BF19-4F53-A99A-F0D89FBF5297 (resized).jpeg
Remove bottom seat easy.Car looked clean but it is amazing what kids lose in a back seat over the years. 9582EB18-50C5-4828-BE6F-66A6BB6D286A (resized).jpegRemove upper seat. More complicated.
Those recliner arms are locked inAA75B815-9C5E-4CA9-A816-2E3E74C3AC37 (resized).jpeg
2624161C-7275-4E9E-8267-5D547123461E (resized).jpeg
Now the rear shelf has to come out. Removing the C pillar covers is a true pain. It is the clips used to make sure they interact properly with the side air bags. 0918A781-0FE2-47BC-8AE6-F95615DF3125 (resized).jpeg
I have filled the back of my truck up with interior parts from the car
E11417DD-51E6-4760-B55D-7620BA32C411 (resized).jpeg
Shelf out. You can see the light now and how it is fully encased within the shelf panel.
4B5F2A10-CA4D-46B5-9E9C-931FA3255D7F (resized).jpeg
BFAAE5CD-0A88-4A1E-82F9-B75DD0CA97BA (resized).jpeg
New light installed but I found the old one actually works when you wiggle the connector. I could have probably just soldered it but after this much trouble I am taking no chances. 529448D8-D502-4455-ADA7-F5775B2A6780 (resized).jpeg
Back together. That was the easy part except those recliner arms. 5895585E-D969-498F-AA42-2D3B643A47D6 (resized).jpegE84376B4-3302-4470-884F-B24E7A97B3D1 (resized).jpeg
A friend's wife's 3rd brake light went out in a Kia. He's a good mechanic but ran out of patience and hacked into the light to change the bulb. So good job doing it correctly, that is what sets professionals apart.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:It means taking a butane torch
[quoted image]
Then lightly and quickly running it around a plastic surface you would like to remove scratches and rough edges from.
[quoted image]
Ok. Thanks for answering. Ordered a couple of those pieces so I’ll give it a try.
Ready to swap out the drawbridge housing for MM 2
I will use one of Kerry’s upgraded versions with the thicker gate and riveted look. image (resized).jpg
The original assembly is missing clips and washers. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
I will redo the wiring also.
image (resized).jpgQuoted from chad:I know each game is different, but what is an estimate of hours per game you put in?
Just in general I shoot for around 100 per game.
That is for just a general WPC game with cabinet art available.
When it starts getting into early Bally solid states with painted cabinets and extreme rewiring that can almost double but you can’t charge double so there is a balance there.
I am about to do 3 System 80s back to back and an EM and those are even more time consuming.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Just in general I shoot for around 100 per game.
That is for just a general WPC game with cabinet art available.
When it starts getting into early Bally solid states with painted cabinets and extreme rewiring that can almost double but you can’t charge double so there is a balance there.
I am about to do 3 System 80s back to back and an EM and those are even more time consuming.
Thank you Chris.
Sorry if you already answered this but what leds did you use in the pop bumpers? Looks like the leds light up the whole pop bumper pretty good.
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